Russian boot

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Woman bootlegging a flask in her calf-length Russian boot, 1922, Prohibition era Washington, D.C. Woman with boot flask.jpg
Woman bootlegging a flask in her calf-length Russian boot, 1922, Prohibition era Washington, D.C.

Russian boot is the name applied to a style of calf- or knee-length fashion boot for women that was popular in the early part of the 20th century. Russian boots fell out of favor in the 1930s, but were the inspiration for the high-leg fashion boots that returned to popularity in the 1950s and 60s. Today the term Russian boot is sometimes applied to the style of low-heeled boots worn by some folk dancers.

Contents

History

The original Russian boot was the valenki , a flat-heeled, wide-topped, knee-length boot worn by Russian soldiers. Designed to combat the extremely cold Russian winters, valenki were normally made of thick felt. The boots' uppers were loosely constructed for convenience and comfort, which produced the style's distinctive wrinkling effect around the ankles. [1] The term was later applied to women’s boots in leather that appeared in the second decade of the 20th century.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, shoes with high uppers, buttoned or laced and reaching to the lower calves, were common footwear for women. Rising hemlines made longer styles of boots popular, particularly when the alternative was an exposure of the leg, which was still considered shocking. [2] In 1913, Denise Poiret, wife of celebrated French couturier Paul Poiret, caused a sensation in Paris and New York by wearing knee-length boots in wrinkled Morocco leather. Designed by her husband and made by the bottier Favereau, these boots were styled with a low heel and a square toe; she had versions in red, white, green, and yellow [3] [4] In 1915 the New York Times reported that, partly inspired by Mme. Poiret, these so-called "Russian boots" were becoming an outré statement by some cutting-edge fashionable women. [5] However, no boots of any kind caught on with the general public in these years, women being accustomed to traditional high-top shoes, either laced or buttoned. [6] Russian boots remained a forward fashion statement, however, adopted by stage and film stars, including Mary Pickford, Irene Castle, Cécile Sorel, and Gloria Swanson, and endorsed by such leading designers as the London-based Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon), who also famously wore them herself.

From the mid-1910s into the early '20s, as hemlines rose from ankle length to mid-calf, high-heeled Russian boots with pointe or rounded toes, were increasingly popular. [7] [8] They were available in a variety of styles, calf- or knee-length, with a Cuban or Louis heel, [9] [10] which could be pull-on, or zip-fastened for a closer fit. [11] Worn with calf-length and finally knee-length skirts, they often featured decorative features such as elaborate stitching or fur trim. [12] [13] [14] Russian boots were stylish throughout the 1920s as the fashionable alternative to galoshes in winter. They also acquired a racy reputation, as the sort of footwear worn by girls who frequented saloon bars and speakeasies. [15]

By the mid-1920s, British shoe manufacturers were reporting record orders for high-legged women’s boots [16] and they were so popular that they were being blamed for causing women to catch colds, [17] have accidents in the street, [18] and even injure themselves. [19] Initially popular in Britain, the new boot style quickly spread to Paris [20] and the United States, [21] while English women in India complained that Russian boots were not yet available in Bombay. [22] The emergence of these tall boots for women was interpreted by some contemporary writers as a consequence of women’s transition from the “leisure class” to the world of business. [23]

With increasing sales, however, complaints began to be made about the poor quality of leather used in the cheaper pairs [24] [25] which were not adequately waterproofed and had a tendency to sag around the ankle; [26] although manufacturers took steps to address issues of fit by introducing taller, better fitting styles. [27] [28] This was ultimately blamed for their decline in popularity. [29] Where protection from the elements was needed, Russian boots were increasingly replaced by fashionable variants of the rubber Wellington boot. [30] Mass popularity was also seen as a barrier to chic women adopting boots as a fashion item. [31] [32] Although they were still popular as late as the beginning of the 1930s, [33] within a few years Russian boots had fallen out of favor. It was not until the 1950s that boots were again regarded as fashion items for women. [34]

Today

Russian boots were the inspiration for the modern fashion boot, some of which closely resemble styles that first appeared in the 1920s. The term “Russian boot” is usually applied to the flat-heeled, calf-length boots popular with some traditions of folk dancing, especially those from Eastern Europe. In 2009, The New York Times reported that the original felt valenki was being reinvented as a fashion item in Russia. [35]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shoe</span> Footwear

A shoe is an item of footwear, intended to protect, and comfort the human foot. They are often worn with a sock. Shoes are also commonly used as an item for decoration, and fashion. The design of shoes has varied a lot through time, and from culture to culture, with form originally being tied to function. Though the human foot can adapt to varied terrains and climate conditions, it is still vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks, and temperature extremes, which shoes protect against. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-toe boots, which are required footwear at industrial worksites.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Footwear</span> Garments worn on feet

Footwear refers to garments worn on the feet, which typically serves the purpose of protection against adversities of the environment such as wear from ground textures and temperature. Footwear in the manner of shoes therefore primarily serves the purpose to ease locomotion and prevent injuries. Footwear can also be used for fashion and adornment as well as to indicate the status or rank of the person within a social structure. Socks and other hosiery are typically worn additionally between the feet and other footwear for further comfort and relief. Cultures have different customs regarding footwear. These include not using any in some situations, usually bearing a symbolic meaning. This can however also be imposed on specific individuals to place them at a practical disadvantage against shod people, if they are excluded from having footwear available or are prohibited from using any. This usually takes place in situations of captivity, such as imprisonment or slavery, where the groups are among other things distinctly divided by whether or whether not footwear is being worn.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Boot</span> Type of footwear extending above the ankle joint

A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. Traditionally made of leather or rubber, modern boots are made from a variety of materials.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wellington boot</span> Type of footwear

The Wellington boot was originally a type of leather boot adapted from Hessian boots, a style of military riding boot. They were worn and popularised by Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington. The "Wellington" boot became a staple of practical foot wear for the British aristocracy and middle class in the early 19th century. The name was subsequently given to waterproof boots made of rubber and they are no longer associated with a particular class. They are now commonly used for a range of agricultural and outdoors pursuits.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miniskirt</span> Short skirt that usually extends to mid-thigh

A miniskirt is a skirt with its hemline well above the knees, generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than 10 cm (4 in) below the buttocks; and a dress with such a hemline is called a minidress or a miniskirt dress. A micro-miniskirt or microskirt is a miniskirt with its hemline at the upper thigh, at or just below crotch or underwear level.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Riding boot</span>

A riding boot is a boot made to be used for horse riding. The classic boot comes high enough up the leg to prevent the leathers of the saddle from pinching the leg of the rider, has a sturdy toe to protect the rider's foot when on the ground and has a distinct heel to prevent the foot from sliding through the stirrup. The sole is smooth or lightly textured to avoid being caught on the tread of the stirrup in the event of a fall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Thigh-high boots</span> Boots extending above the knee

Thigh-high boots, known also as thigh-length boots or simply thigh boots, are boots that extend above the knees to at least mid-thigh. Other terms for this footwear include over-the-knee boots (abbreviated OTK boots; the full term is also used for the boots for women and especially when cuffed. Lengths vary from reaching just over the knee to reaching almost to the crotch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leggings</span> Several types of leg coverings

Leggings are several types of leg attire that have varied through the years. Modern usage from the 1960s onwards has come to refer to elastic close-fitting high-rise garments worn over the legs typically by women, such as leg warmers or tights. Usage from the 18th century refers to men's wear usually made of cloth or leather that is wrapped around the leg down to the ankle. In the 19th century, leggings usually referred to infants' leg clothing that were matched with a jacket, as well as leg-wrappings made of leather or wool and worn by soldiers and trappers. Leggings prominently returned to women's fashion in the 1960s, drawing from the form-fitting clothing of dancers. With the widespread adoption of the synthetic fibre Lycra and the rise in popularity of aerobics, leggings came to further prominence in the 1970s and 1980s, and eventually made their way into streetwear. Leggings are a part of the late 2010s into the 2020s athleisure fashion trend of wearing activewear outside sporting activities and in casual settings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">High-heeled shoe</span> Footwear that raises the heel of the wearers foot significantly higher than the toes

High-heeled shoes, also known as high heels, are a type of shoe with an upward-angled sole. The heel in such shoes is raised above the ball of the foot. High heels cause the legs to appear longer, make the wearer appear taller, and accentuate the calf muscle.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Court shoe</span> Type of shoe with low-cut front

A court shoe, or pump, is a shoe with a low-cut front, or vamp, with either a shoe buckle or a black bow as ostensible fastening. Deriving from the 17th and 18th century dress shoes with shoe buckles, the vamped pump shape emerged in the late 18th century. By the turn of the 19th century, shoe buckles were increasingly replaced by black bows, which has remained the contemporary style for men's formal wear, leather or patent leather evening pumps ever since. This latter style is sometimes also called an opera pump or opera slipper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jodhpurs</span> Full-hipped riding trousers

Jodhpurs, in their modern form, are tight-fitting trousers to the ankle, where they end in a snug cuff, and are worn primarily for horse riding. The term is also used as slang for a type of short riding boot, also called a paddock boot or a jodhpur boot, because they are worn with jodhpurs. According to Tara Mayer, "Jodhpurs … exemplify the material and cultural exchanges between Britain and its Indian colony in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1970s in fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the 1970s

Fashion in the 1970s was about individuality. In the early 1970s, Vogue proclaimed "There are no rules in the fashion game now" due to overproduction flooding the market with cheap synthetic clothing. Common items included mini skirts, bell-bottoms popularized by hippies, vintage clothing from the 1950s and earlier, and the androgynous glam rock and disco styles that introduced platform shoes, bright colors, glitter, and satin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Go-go boot</span> Style of footwear

Go-go boots are a low-heeled style of women's fashion boot first introduced in the mid-1960s. The original go-go boots, as defined by André Courrèges in 1964, were white, low-heeled, and mid-calf in height, a specific style which is sometimes called the Courrèges boot. Since then, the term go-go boot has come to include the knee-high, square-toed boots with block heels that were very popular in the 1960s and 1970s; as well as a number of variations including kitten heeled versions and colours other than white.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1900s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the decade 1900–1909

Fashion in the period 1900–1909 in the Western world continued the severe, long and elegant lines of the late 1890s. Tall, stiff collars characterize the period, as do women's broad hats and full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles. A new, columnar silhouette introduced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1910s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the 1910s

Fashion from 1910 to 1919 in the Western world was characterized by a rich and exotic opulence in the first half of the decade in contrast with the somber practicality of garments worn during the Great War. Men's trousers were worn cuffed to ankle-length and creased. Skirts rose from floor length to well above the ankle, women began to bob their hair, and the stage was set for the radical new fashions associated with the Jazz Age of the 1920s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion boot</span> Boot worn for style rather for utilitarian purposes

A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion. The term is usually applied to women's boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire. Although boots were a popular style of women's footwear in the 19th century, they were not recognized as a high fashion item until the 1960s. They became widely popular in the 1970s and have remained a staple of women's winter wardrobes since then.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cowboy boot</span> High-heeled leather riding boot

Cowboy boots are a specific style of riding boot, historically worn by cowboys. They have a high heel that is traditionally made of stacked leather, rounded to pointed toe, high shaft, and, traditionally, no lacing. Cowboy boots are normally made from cowhide leather, which may be decoratively hand-tooled, but are also sometimes made from "exotic" skins like alligator, snake, ostrich, lizard, eel, elephant, stingray, elk, buffalo, and so on.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Over-the-knee boot</span>

Over-the-knee boots, OTK boots, are long boots that fully or partly cover the knee. Originally created as a man's riding boot in the 15th century, in the latter part of the 20th century, the style was redefined as a fashion boot for women. Over-the-knee boots are also used as a work boot in circumstances requiring additional protection for the legs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nutukas</span>

Nutukas, finnesko, or simply Sámi boots are traditional Sámi winter footwear made of reindeer hide. Because they are soft, the nutukas will not freeze as solidly as thick boot leather, making them relatively easy to put on after overnight exposure to subzero temperatures. From 1890, they are regularly mentioned in accounts of polar travel.

References

  1. Cox, Caroline (2008). Vintage Shoes. New York: HarperCollins. p. 45. ISBN   978-0-06-166576-9.
  2. anon. (11 April 1915), "Short skirts, higher boots", New York Times
  3. anon. "Poiret: king of fashion". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 17 July 2010.
  4. anon. "inventory #2005.45.1: boots by Paul Poiret, c.1916". Museum at FIT. Archived from the original on 19 July 2011. Retrieved 17 July 2010.
  5. anon. (11 April 1915), "Short skirts, higher boots", New York Times
  6. Cox, Caroline (2008). Vintage Shoes. New York: HarperCollins. p. 45. ISBN   978-0-06-166576-9.
  7. "Russian Boots", The Manchester Guardian , 19 November 1925
  8. "Russian Boots", The Irish Times , 17 September 1926
  9. Cox, Caroline (2008). Vintage Shoes. New York: HarperCollins. p. 45. ISBN   978-0-06-166576-9.
  10. anon. "black leather Russian boot, 1925". London College of Fashion Shoe Collection. Retrieved 10 July 2010.
  11. Steele, Valerie (2005). Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion . Vol. 1. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. p.  175. ISBN   978-0-684-31394-8.
  12. "Russian Boots With Fur Collars", The Manchester Guardian , 9 September 1926
  13. "Russian Boots: New Fashions With Laced Tops", The Irish Times , 15 February 1926
  14. anon. (1920s). "Boots, boots, boots; latest Russian boot styles for Eve". British Pathe News. Retrieved 17 July 2010.
  15. Cox, Caroline (2008). Vintage Shoes. New York: HarperCollins. p. 45. ISBN   978-0-06-166576-9.
  16. "High Boots The Style For British Women", New York Times , 26 September 1925
  17. "Russian Boots Cause Colds", Los Angeles Times , 9 December 1925
  18. "Russian Boots Trap Girl", New York Times , 27 November 1925
  19. "While Taking Off Her Boots: Woman's Tug Breaks Thigh", Times of India , 10 April 1928
  20. "Paris Fashion Turns in Favor of Boots", Washington Post , 2 May 1926
  21. "London Girls, Wearing Russian Boots, Arrive", The Boston Daily Globe , 23 December 1925
  22. "A Bombay Woman's Causerie: X'mas Shopping: The Missing Russian Boots", Times of India , 25 December 1925
  23. "Boots for Women Sign of Changes", Los Angeles Times , 30 December 1927
  24. "Russian Boots: The Question of Cost", The Manchester Guardian , 20 February 1926
  25. ""Russian Boots:" Trade Criticism Shoddy Footwear and Ill Health", The Scotsman , 18 February 1926
  26. "The Russian Boot: Black Stockings Again", The Manchester Guardian , 11 March 1926
  27. "New Style Russian Boots: Lady Duff Gordon's Hymn of Praise", Irish Times , 9 September 1926
  28. "Advice to Boot Dealers: Styles Likely To Be In Demand This Year", The Manchester Guardian , 27 January 1926
  29. "Russian Boot is Passé: Its Place in England Now Taken By Gaiters And Spattees", New York Times , 2 January 1927
  30. "Rubber Boots", The Manchester Guardian , 29 October 1928
  31. "London Modistes' See Russian Boot's Doom", Washington Post , 6 December 1925
  32. Turnbull, George (15 November 1926), "The London Observer", The Spur
  33. "Puss In Boots Again", The Manchester Guardian , 14 January 1930
  34. Verin, Helene (2009). Beth Levine Shoes. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang. p. 43. ISBN   978-1-58479-759-3.
  35. Yaffa, Joshua (4 January 2009), "Foraging: Moscow, valenki boots", New York Times