Tissue (cloth)

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Tissue is a thin, transparent, and lightweight material. [1] [2] Tissue fabric is a suitable material for designing various types of garments, including saris. [3] Tissue is characterized by the use of metallic yarns for decorative purposes. [4] The tissue sari is composed of silk threads in the warp and zari in the weft. [5] [6]

Contents

Etymology

The word tissue has its origins in the French language, specifically from the term tissu , which means fabric. [7]

Characteristics and types

The term tissue is used to denote a type of fabrics that are characterized by their delicate, lightweight, and transparent nature. [1] [2] [7] Tissue gingham is a type of plain-weave fabric that is lightweight and is characterized by its yarn-dyed construction. [8] Tissue fabric may be woven, knitted, or even nonwoven, and features a film-like layer. [9]

Tissue faille is a type of lightweight dress material, which is produced using an acetate warp and rayon in the weft. At one point, it was also recognized as a trademark material and commonly used for blouses. [7]

The tissue figured cloths belong to the class of intricately patterned muslins that are produced using the jacquard weaving technique. These textiles are created using fine threads for the base material, while the designs are formed through the use of thicker filling yarns. [7] Tissue taffeta can be described as a taffeta textile that is both delicate and lightweight, featuring a sheer quality. [7] The fabric known as silver or gold tissue can be characterized as a type of metal cloth, woven from fine threads of silver or gold, and possessing a transparent and gauzy texture. [2] Tissue matalassé was a type of Tissue fabric introduced in 1839, characterized by a surface of small squares resembling quilting. This fabric was commonly used for making overcoats for men. [10]

Use

The mention of court dresses, [11] gowns made from tissue fabric is noted in records from the early 1700s. [12] Tissue has been used as dress material for various types of clothing, such as saris, turbans, veils, and others. [1] Negligee are made from wool and silk blends. [13]

Tissue fabric has been utilized in women's clothing for a considerable period of time. Historical records reveal several instances of dresses made from Tissue fabric, which have been utilized in various ways. Here are a few examples:

Tissue sari

A tissue saree (or tar-bana [16] ) is typically composed of a pure silk body on the warp, while the weft and borders are made of gold thread. Additionally, the weft is made of gold lace and the silk warp is doubled in both the heddles and reed, resulting in a heavier fabric than usual. [17] [18] Brocades on Tissue sarees are woven using silk yarn for the body and feature exquisite zari patterns on the pallu, which is the border of the sari. [19]

Kanchipuram is a well-known hub for crafting Tissue sarees, which are made by skillfully interweaving silk and lace. These sarees are available in different sizes, ranging from 0.61 to 1.32 meters in width and 5.49 to 9.14 meters in length. They are adorned with various colors and designs, and boast attractive borders. [20] [21]

Banaras has been renowned for its weaving heritage since ancient times. The city is particularly celebrated for producing various types of sarees in its weaving centers. Among these, several exclusive varieties hold a special place, including jangla, tanchoi, vaskat, cutwork, tissue, and butidar. [22]

Indian fashion designers continue to incorporate Tissue fabric as a decorative element in their dress collections. Designed by Sabyasachi, Alia Bhatt wore an embroidered handwoven tissue veil during her wedding ceremony. [23] [24] Manish Malhotra designed a sari which was adorned with large tissue ruffles, worn by Mira Rajput Kapoor. [25]

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A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velvet</span> Type of pile fabric

Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile that gives it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word velvety means "smooth like velvet". Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Today, velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk-cotton blends, or synthetic-natural fiber blends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Satin</span> Shiny, fragile fabric weave pattern, with long floats

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Poplin</span> Strong, plain-weave fabric with a fine cross-rib

Poplin, also called tabinet, is a fine wool, cotton or silk fabric that has a vertical warp and a horizontal weft. Nowadays, the name refers to a strong material in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sari</span> Womans draped garment of the Indian subcontinent

A sari is a women's garment from the Indian subcontinent, that consists of an un-stitched stretch of woven fabric arranged over the body as a robe, with one end attached to the waist, while the other end rests over one shoulder as a stole (shawl), sometimes baring a part of the midriff. It may vary from 4.1 to 8.2 metres in length, and 60 to 120 centimetres in breadth, and is a form of ethnic wear in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh and Pakistan. There are various names and styles of sari manufacture and draping, the most common being the Nivi style. The sari is worn with a fitted bodice also called a choli and a petticoat called ghagra, parkar, or ul-pavadai. It remains fashionable in the Indian subcontinent today.

Ikat is a dyeing technique from Indonesia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. The term is also used to refer to related and unrelated traditions in other cultures. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general clades. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion. Similar dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double cloth</span> Woven textile type

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jamdani</span> Traditional weaving art of Bangladesh

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Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paithani</span> Variety of sari

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<i>Kasuri</i> Japanese textile technique

Kasuri (絣) is the Japanese term for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric, typically referring to fabrics produced within Japan using this technique. It is a form of ikat dyeing, traditionally resulting in patterns characterized by their blurred or brushed appearance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Plain weave</span> Method of weaving cloth in which each warp and weft thread crosses over/under every other thread

Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. Fabrics with a plain weave are generally strong, durable, and have a smooth surface. They are often used for a variety of applications, including clothing, home textiles, and industrial fabrics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span> Overview about silk in the India subcontinent

Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocade</span> Decorative shuttle-woven fabric

Brocade [brōˈkād] is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth", originally past participle of the verb broccare "to stud, set with nails", from brocco, "small nail", from Latin broccus, "projecting, pointed".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shot silk</span> Fabric woven such that it produces an iridescent appearance

Shot silk is a fabric which is made up of silk woven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance. A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp, and shot silk colours can be described as "[warp colour] shot with [weft colour]." The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sambalpuri sari</span> Type of Sari

A Sambalpuri sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (ikat) sari wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha, India. The sari is a traditional female garment in the Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine meters in length that is draped over the body in various styles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Handloom sari</span> Sari woven by hand-operated loom

Handloom saris are a traditional textile art of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom saris is important for economic development in rural India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Odisha Ikat</span>

Odisha Ikat, is a kind of ikat known as Bandhakala and Bandha, a resist dyeing technique, originating from Indian state of Odisha. Traditionally known as "Bandhakala"', "Bandha", '"Bandha of Odisha", it is a geographically tagged product of Odisha since 2007. It is made through a process of tie-dyeing the warp and weft threads to create the design on the loom prior to weaving. It is unlike any other ikat woven in the rest of the country because of its design process, which has been called "poetry on the loom". This design is in vogue only at the western and eastern regions of Odisha; similar designs are produced by community groups called the Bhulia, Kostha Asani, and Patara. The fabric gives a striking curvilinear appearance. Saris made out of this fabric feature bands of brocade in the borders and also at the ends, called anchal or pallu. Its forms are purposefully feathered, giving the edges a "hazy and fragile" appearance. There are different kinds of bandha saris made in Odisha, notably Khandua, Sambalpuri, Pasapali, Kataki and Manibandhi.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocatelle</span> Silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs

Brocatelle is a silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs. The material is characterized by satin effects standing out in relief in the warp against a flat ground. It is produced with jacquard weave by using silk, rayon, cotton, or many synthetic yarns.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Agrawal, Yashodhara (2003). Silk brocades. New Delhi: Roli Books. p. 65. ISBN   978-81-7436-258-2.
  2. 1 2 3 Picken, Mary Brooks (1999). A dictionary of costume and fashion : historic and modern : with over 950 illustrations. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications. p. 352. ISBN   978-0-486-40294-9.
  3. ↑ Indian Trade Journal. Department of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics. 1963. p. 1209. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  4. ↑ Hart, Avril (1998). Fashion in detail : from the 17th and 18th centuries. New York: Rizzoli. p. 222. ISBN   978-0-8478-2151-8.
  5. ↑ Dhamija, Jasleen (1995). The Woven Silks of India. Marg Publications. p. 104. ISBN   978-81-85026-28-2. Archived from the original on 25 April 2023. Retrieved 25 April 2023.
  6. ↑ King, Brenda M. (3 September 2005). Silk and Empire. Manchester University Press. pp. xviii. ISBN   978-0-7190-6700-6. Archived from the original on 25 April 2023. Retrieved 25 April 2023.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. New York: Fairchild Publications. 1959. p. 559.
  8. ↑ Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Merrill. p. 409. ISBN   978-0-13-494592-7.
  9. ↑ Textiles By Kadolph Sara J Marck. p. 1837.
  10. ↑ Cumming, Valerie (2010). The dictionary of fashion history. Oxford ; New York: Berg. p. 274. ISBN   978-1-84788-534-0.
  11. ↑ Hayward, Maria (5 July 2017). Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII. Routledge. p. 205. ISBN   978-1-351-56917-0. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  12. ↑ LUSON, Jane (1835). Exhibition of Ancient Female Court Costume ... [By Permission of the Executors of Mrs. Jane Luson.] Third Edition. W. Barnes. p. 19. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  13. ↑ Pinhorn), Jane Thomas (née (1858). The London and Paris ladies' magazine of fashion, ed. by mrs. Edward Thomas. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023. The mixed tissues of wool and silk are exclusively reserved for negligés .
  14. 1 2 Baclawski, Karen (1995). The guide to historic costume. New York: Drama Book Publishers. pp. 99, 225. ISBN   978-0-89676-137-7.
  15. ↑ Elegance in an age of crisis : fashions of the 1930s. New Haven: Yale University Press. 2014. p. 63. ISBN   978-0-300-20420-9.
  16. ↑ Mohanty, Bijoy Chandra (1984). Brocaded Fabrics of India. Calico Museum of Textiles. p. 29. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  17. ↑ General, India (Republic) Office of the Registrar (1964). Census of India, 1961. Manager of Publications. p. 10. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  18. ↑ Textiles and Dress of India: Socio-economic, Environmental and Symbolic Significance. University of Minnesota. 1992. p. 254. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  19. ↑ Sumathi, G. J. (2007). Elements of Fashion and Apparel Design. New Age International. p. 60. ISBN   978-81-224-1371-7. Archived from the original on 21 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  20. ↑ Madras Information. Director of Information and Publicity, Government of Madras. 1968. p. 20. Archived from the original on 21 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  21. ↑ Cultures, Institute of Traditional (1968). Bulletin of the Institute of Traditional Cultures, Madras. University of Madras. p. 339. Archived from the original on 7 April 2023. Retrieved 7 April 2023.
  22. ↑ Buch, Nidhi; Trivedi, Hetvi (30 December 2021). Geographical Indications of Indian Handlooms: Between Legal Right and Real Right. Taylor & Francis. p. 59. ISBN   978-1-000-52225-9. Archived from the original on 26 April 2023. Retrieved 26 April 2023.
  23. ↑ "Alia Bhatt is not your quintessential bride in red lehenga but a stunning Sabyasachi dulhan in ivory saree. We love!". India Today. Archived from the original on 6 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
  24. ↑ "Did Kangana Ranaut wear Alia Bhatt's wedding saree before her? Find out". TimesNow. 15 April 2022. Archived from the original on 6 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
  25. ↑ "11 times celebrities proved that ruffled saris are this season's favourite wedding outfit". Vogue India. 20 November 2019. Archived from the original on 6 April 2023. Retrieved 6 April 2023.
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