Plain weave

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An example of the thread crossing pattern in a plain weave fabric Plainweave.svg
An example of the thread crossing pattern in a plain weave fabric
Structure of plain-woven fabric Tabby1asm.png
Structure of plain-woven fabric
Structure of basketweave fabric Basketweave1sm.png
Structure of basketweave fabric
Warp and weft in a plain tabby weave, showing the reversals of the weft. Warp and weft 2.jpg
Warp and weft in a plain tabby weave, showing the reversals of the weft.

Plain weave (also called tabby weave, linen weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and twill). [1] It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.

Contents

In plain weave cloth, the warp and weft threads cross at right angles, aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. [2]

A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. [1]

Examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, percale and taffeta.

Etymology

According to the 12th-century geographer al-Idrīsī, the city of Almería in Andalusia manufactured imitations of Iraqi and Persian silks called ‘attābī, which David Jacoby identifies [4] as "a taffeta fabric made of silk and cotton (natural fibers) originally produced in Attabiya, a district of Baghdad." The word was adopted into Medieval Latin as attabi, then French as tabis and English as tabby, as in "tabby weave". [5] [6]

End uses

Its uses range from heavy and coarse canvas and blankets made of thick yarns to the lightest and finest cambries and muslins made in extremely fine yarns. [7] Chiffon, organza, percale and taffeta are also plain weave fabrics.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Twill</span> Woven fabric textile weave

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves along with plain weave and satin. It is made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step," or offset, between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.

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Damask is a reversible patterned fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave. Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double cloth</span> Woven textile type

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Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Balanced fabric</span> A type of fabric

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<i>Kasuri</i>

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Selvage</span> Narrow edge of a woven fabric parallel to its length

A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Units of textile measurement</span> Systems for measuring textiles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shot silk</span> Fabric woven such that it produces an iridescent appearance

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dupioni</span> A plain weave crisp type of silk fabric

Dupioni is a plain weave silk fabric, produced using fine yarn in the warp and uneven yarn reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface and a crisp handle. It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub count. In Japan a cocoon containing more than one silkworm is called tamamayu.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pick glass</span> A magnifying glass helpful in counting thread count

A pick glass also known as a piece glass is a magnifying glass helpful in counting thread count. It is used to determine the number of yarns in warp and weft in woven fabrics and courses and wales in knitted fabrics. Compact constructions of fabrics may have a higher thread count. That is also called "cloth count."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pin weaving</span>

Pin weaving is a form of small-scale weaving traditionally done on a frame made of pins; the warp and weft are wrapped around the pins. Pin-woven textiles have a selvage edge all the way around.

Tissue is a thin, transparent, and lightweight material. Tissue fabric is a suitable material for designing various types of garments, including saris. Tissue is characterized by the use of metallic yarns for decorative purposes. The tissue sari is composed of silk threads in the warp and zari in the weft.

References

Citations

  1. 1 2 Kadolph (2007), p. 225–229.
  2. Emery, Irene (1966). The Primary Structures of Fabrics. The George Washington University and Textile Museum Library, Washington, D.C.: The Textile Museum. p. 76.
  3. Kadolph (2007), p. 229.
  4. Jacoby, "Silk Economics and Cross-Cultural Artistic Interaction: Byzantium, the Muslim World, and the Christian West" Dumbarton Oaks Papers58 (2004:197-240) p. 217, crediting al-Idrīsī.
  5. "'Tabby': The Cat's Out of the Bag". Merriam-Webster. Retrieved 11 September 2020.
  6. Harper, Douglas. "tabby (n.)". Online Etymology Dictionary. Retrieved 11 September 2020.
  7. Gillow, John (1999). World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques. Thames & Hudson. p. 70. ISBN   0-500-28247-1.

Bibliography