Lancashire Loom

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Two Lancashire looms

The Lancashire Loom was a semi-automatic power loom invented by James Bullough and William Kenworthy in 1842. Although it is self-acting, it has to be stopped to recharge empty shuttles. It was the mainstay of the Lancashire cotton industry for a century.

Contents

John Bullough

John Bullough (1800–1868) was from Accrington, often described as a simple-minded Westhoughton weaver. Originally a handloom weaver, unlike others of his trade Bullough embraced new developments such as Edmund Cartwright's power loom (1785). While colleagues were busy rejecting new devices such as in the power-loom riots that broke out in Lancashire in 1826, Bullough improved his own loom by inventing various components, including the "self-acting temple" that kept the woven cloth at its correct width, and a loose reed that allowed the lathe to back away on encountering a shuttle trapped in the warp. Bullough also invented a simple but effective warning device which rang a bell every time a warp thread broke on his loom. Bullough moved to Blackburn and worked with William Kenworthy at Brookhouse Mills, with whom he applied his inventions to develop an improved power loom that later became known as the "Lancashire Loom". [1] He was forced to quit Blackburn, for fear of angry handloom weavers. He later settled in Accrington to form Howard & Bullough in partnership with John Howard at Globe Works in Accrington alongside the Leeds-Liverpool Canal in Accrington. Here he invented the slasher, which founded the company's success. He was one of the country's largest manufacturers. At the height of the business the Globe works employed almost 6000 workers and covered 52 acres (210,000 m2). 75% of production was exported. [2] Howard and Bullough became part of the Textile Machinery Makers Limited group, which were bought out by Platt, and in 1991 the company name changed to Platt Saco Lowell. The Globe works closed in 1993. [3]

The Loom

Marsdens:1892 diagram Modern Loose Reed Power Loom-marsden.png
Marsdens:1892 diagram
1894 Lancashire Looms (Harling & Todd) still in use at Queen Street Mill, Burnley. Weaving shed, Queen Street Mill - geograph.org.uk - 680867.jpg
1894 Lancashire Looms (Harling & Todd) still in use at Queen Street Mill, Burnley.

From 1830 there had been a series of incremental improvements to the basic Roberts Loom.

There now appear a series of useful improvements that are contained in patents for useless devices

[5] At this point the loom has become fully automatic, this is the Kenworthy and Bullough Lancashire Loom. The Cartwight loom weaver could work one loom at 120–130 picks per minute- with a Kenworthy and Bullough's Lancashire Loom, a weaver can run up to six looms working at 220–260 picks per minute- thus giving 12 times more throughput. The power loom is now referred to as "a perfect machine", it produced textile of a better quality than the hand weaver for less cost. An economic success. [6] Other improvements were the

Movements

The three primary movements of a loom are shedding, picking, and beating-up.

  • Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two lines, so that the shuttle can pass between these lines. There are two general kinds of sheds: "open" and "closed". Open Shed-The warp threads are moved when the pattern requires it-from one line to the other. Closed Shed-The warp threads are all placed level in one line after each pick.
  • Picking: The operation of projecting the shuttle from side to side of the loom through the division in the warp threads. This is done by the overpick or underpick motions. The overpick is suitable for quick-running looms, whereas the underpick is best for heavy or slow looms.
  • Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom when making cloth, and is the action of the reed as it drives each pick of weft to the fell of the cloth. [8]

Economics

The principal advantage of the Lancashire loom was that it was semi-automatic, when a warp thread broke the weaver was notified. When the shuttle ran out of thread, the machine stopped. An operative thus could work 4 or more looms whereas previously they could only work a single loom. Indeed, the term A Four Loom Weaver was used to describe the operatives. Labour cost was quartered. In some mills an operative would operate 6 or even 8 looms, [9] although that was governed by the thread being used. By 1900, the loom was challenged by the Northrop Loom, which was fully automatic and could be worked in larger numbers. The Northrop was suitable for coarse thread but for fine cotton, the Lancashire loom was still preferred. By 1914, Northrop looms made up 40% of looms in American mills, but in the United Kingdom labour costs were not as significant and they only supplied 2% of the British market.

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Shed (weaving)

In weaving, the shed is the temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft is woven. The shed is created to make it easy to interlace the weft into the warp and thus create woven fabric. Most types of looms have some sort of device which separates some of the warp threads from the others. This separation is called the shed, and allows for a shuttle carrying the weft thread to move through the shed perpendicular to the warp threads. Which threads are raised and which are lowered are changed after each pass of the shuttle.

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The Northrop Loom was a fully automatic power loom marketed by George Draper and Sons, Hopedale, Massachusetts beginning in 1895. It was named after James Henry Northrop who invented the shuttle-charging mechanism.

Roberts Loom

The Roberts loom was a cast-iron power loom introduced by Richard Roberts in 1830. It was the first loom that was more viable than a hand loom and was easily adjustable and reliable, which led to its widespread use in the Lancashire cotton industry.

Reed (weaving) Part of loom

A reed is part of a weaving loom, and resembles a comb. It is used to separate and space the warp threads, to guide the shuttle's motion across the loom, and to push the weft threads into place. The reed is securely held by the beater, and consists of a frame with many vertical slits. Floor looms and mechanized looms both use a beater with a reed, whereas Inkle weaving and tablet weaving do not use reeds.

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Bancroft Shed Mill museum in England

Bancroft Shed was a weaving shed in Barnoldswick, Lancashire, England, situated on the road to Skipton. Construction was started in 1914 and the shed was commissioned in 1920 for James Nutter & Sons Limited. The mill closed on 22 December 1978 and was demolished. The engine house, chimneys and boilers have been preserved and maintained as a working steam museum. The mill was the last steam-driven weaving shed to be constructed and the last to close.

More looms

The more looms system was a productivity strategy introduced in the Lancashire cotton industry, whereby each weaver would manage a greater number of looms. It was an alternative to investing in the more productive Northrop automatic looms in the 1930s. It caused resentment, industrial action and failed to achieve any significant cost savings.

Kissing the shuttle

"Kissing the shuttle" is the term for a process by which weavers used their mouths to pull thread through the eye of a shuttle when the pirn was replaced. The same shuttles were used by many weavers, and the practice was unpopular. It was outlawed in the U.S. state of Massachusetts in 1911 but continued even after it had been outlawed in Lancashire, England in 1952. The Lancashire cotton industry was loath to invest in hand-threaded shuttles, or in the more productive Northrop automatic looms with self-threading shuttles, which were introduced in 1902.

William Horrocks, a cotton manufacturer of Stockport built an early power loom in 1803, based on the principles of Cartwright but including some significant improvements to cloth take up and in 1813 battening.

References

Notes

  1. "Spinning the Web". Manchester City Council. Retrieved 2009-01-26.
  2. "Manchester Engineers & Inventors". Manchester UK A Virtual Encyclopaedia of Greater Manchester in the Third Millennium. Retrieved 2009-01-26.
  3. "Howard and Bullough, Cotton Machinery Manufacturers" . Retrieved 2009-01-26.
  4. Marsden 1895 , pp. 70, 71
  5. Marsden 1895 , pp. 88–95
  6. Marsden 1895 , p. 97
  7. Marsden 1895 , p. 98
  8. Curtis 1921 , p. Shed
  9. Rose 1986 , pp. 96–97

Bibliography