This article is about the fabric. For the company after which this fabric is named, see Charvet Place Vendôme.
Charvet
Charvet ground with supplementary weft pattern
Type
Fabric
Advertisement (1916). Creative use of the term
A charvetfabric is woven of silk or acetate in warp-faced rib weave, of a reversed reps type[1] with a double ridge effect.[2] The fabric's name derives from its frequent[3] and "clever"[4] use in the 19th century by the Parisian shirtmaker Charvet. It is characterized by a soft handle[5] and shiny appearance.[6] It also drapes well.[7] The bindings create a herringbone effect parallel to the warp, which make this weave suitable for creating faint diagonal stripe effects for ties, for which the fabric is cut on the bias. Patterns on this base are often made with supplementary weft. The fabric has also been used for mufflers,[1] scarves[8] and robes.[9]
A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibers. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, or other materials to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting or tatting, felting, or braiding.
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The method in which these threads are inter-woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques without looms.
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors.
This weave is based on the Régence weave, a kind of reps with all weft raised on the backside,[10] which was popular during the regency of Philippe II, Duke of Orléans (lasting from 1715 to 1723). In the United States, at the end of the 19th century, the term was used in a broader sense, to describe either fabrics "extremely dainty in construction and effect"[11] or silk shirtings.[12] Since the beginning of the 20th century, the weave is rather found in solid fabrics for semi formal wear.[13]
Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, was a member of the royal family of France and served as Regent of the Kingdom from 1715 to 1723. Born at his father's palace at Saint-Cloud, he was known from birth under the title of Duke of Chartres. His father was Louis XIV's younger brother Philippe I, Duke of Orléans, his mother was Elizabeth Charlotte of the Palatinate.
By extension, the term is also used in knitting for a certain kind of bias striping, going up from left to right.[14]
Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric, often used in many types of garments.
Sources
1 2 Schoeffler, Oscar E. (1973). Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions. McGraw-Hill. p.651. ISBN0-07-055480-3.
↑ Schoeffler, Oscar E. (1966). Esquire fashions for men. Harper & Row. p.219.
↑ "Gimbels". The New York Times (advertising). November 14, 1913. an effect used extensively by Charvet, the famous shirtmaker of Paris
↑ Bianchi, Ettore (1997). Dizionario internazionale dei tessuti. Como: Tessile di Como. p.344.
↑ Barnum Wingate, Isabel (1949). Textile Fabrics and Their Selection. Prentice-Hall.
↑ Tortora, Phylis G. (1996). Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles. Fairchild Publications. p.466. ISBN0-87005-707-3.
↑ American Fabrics Encyclopedia of Textiles. Doric Publishing Company. 1960. p.598.
↑ "Gimbels". The New York Times (advertising). October 7, 1913. "There are scarfs of Charvet cloth, in a soft ribbed texture, which seems to come unwrinkled by itself after being mussed(subscription required)
↑ "Wide variety of robes will suit all tastes". Chicago Tribune. September 17, 1952.
↑ Hardouin-Figuier, Elisabeth (1994). Les Etoffes, dictionnaire historique (in French). Paris: Editions de l'amateur. p.320. ISBN2-85917-175-4.
↑ "Boggs & Buhl, Allegheny". The Pittsburgh Press (advertising). March 17, 1903. Retrieved 2010-01-25. Of the same family as Silk Ginghams and Swivel Silks. But more clearly representative of the advancement of American fabrics. They are extremely dainty in construction and effect.
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.
Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back, one of three fundamental types of textile weaves along with plain weave and twill. The satin weave is characterized by four or more fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the high luster and even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the light reflecting is not scattered as much by the fibres. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, polyester or nylon, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although some definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk. If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen.
Poplin, also called tabinet, was a fine but thick wool, cotton and silk fabric with a horizontal warp and a vertical weft made with twice the yarns. Nowadays it is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface.
Ikat is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft is drawn through and inserted over-and-under the warp. A single thread of the weft crossing the warp is called a pick. Terms vary. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end or end.
Damask is a reversible figured fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibres, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave. Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.
Crêpe, also spelt crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp, crimped appearance. The term crape typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe is also historically called crespe or crisp.
Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but made with spun yarns instead of filament.
For woven textiles, grain refers to the orientation of the weft and warp threads. The three named grains are straight grain, cross grain, and the bias grain. In sewing, a pattern piece can be cut from fabric in any orientation, and the chosen grain or orientation will affect the way the fabric hangs and stretches and thus the fit of a garment. Generally speaking a piece is said to be cut on a particular grain when the longest part of the pattern or the main seams of the finished piece are aligned with that grain. Non-woven materials such as felt, interfacing or leather do not have a grain.
Pile weave is a form of textile created by weaving.These fabrics are characterized by a pile, a looped or tufted surface that extends above the foundation or ground weave. The pile is formed by supplemental yarn running in the direction of the length of the fabric or the width of the fabric. Pile weaves include velvet and corduroy fabrics and machine-woven Berber carpets.
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.
A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of fabric, keeping it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.
In the context of materials, stuff can refer to any manufactured material. This is illustrated from a quote by Sir Francis Bacon in his 1658 publication New Atlantis: "Wee have also diverse Mechanicall Arts, which you have not; and Stuffes made by them; As Papers, Linnen, Silks, Tissues; dainty Works of Feathers of wonderfull Lustre; excellent Dies, and many others." In Coventry, those completing seven-year apprenticeships with stuff merchants were entitled to become freemen of the city.
The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.
Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth", originally past participle of the verb broccare "to stud, set with nails", from brocco, "small nail", from Latin broccus, "projecting, pointed".
Shot silk is a fabric which is made up of silk woven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance. A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp, and shot silk colours can be described as "[warp colour] shot with [weft colour]." The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.
Samite was a luxurious and heavy silk fabric worn in the Middle Ages, of a twill-type weave, often including gold or silver thread. The word was derived from Old French samit, from medieval Latin samitum, examitum deriving from the Byzantine Greek ἑξάμιτον hexamiton "six threads", usually interpreted as indicating the use of six yarns in the warp. Samite is still used in ecclesiastical robes, vestments, ornamental fabrics, and interior decoration.
Grenadine is a weave characterised by its light, open, gauze-like feel, and is produced on jacquard looms. Originally produced in Italy and worn as a black silk lace in France in the eighteenth century, it is now woven with silk for use in ties.
Moire, less often moiré, is a textile with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly from silk, but also wool, cotton and rayon. The watered appearance is usually created by the finishing technique called calendering. Moire effects are also achieved by certain weaves, such as varying the tension in the warp and weft of the weave. Silk treated in this way is sometimes called watered silk.
Eolienne is a lightweight fabric with a ribbed (corded) surface. Generally made by combining silk and cotton or silk and worsted warp and weft, it is similar to poplin but of an even lighter weight.
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