 Interlock jersey fabric | |
| Type | Fabric |
|---|---|
| Material | Wool, cotton or synthetic fibers |
| Production method | Knitting |
| Production process | Mechanized |
| Place of origin | Jersey |
Jersey is a knit fabric used predominantly for clothing manufacture. It was originally made of wool, but is now made of wool, cotton and synthetic fibers.
Jersey fabric originated in the Channel Islands, particularly on the island of Jersey, where it was traditionally used for underwear and sweaters for fishermen. This versatile fabric has historical roots dating back to the Middle Ages, when Jersey was a significant exporter of knitted goods. [1] Today, jersey fabric is prized for its lightweight and stretchy qualities and is often made from materials like rayon or viscose, which provide a soft texture and excellent drape. [2] Many modern versions of jersey fabric incorporate Lycra, spandex, or elastane to enhance stretchability. [3]
Jersey fabric was originally woven from wool, but it has since evolved to include cotton and synthetic blends, with common ratios being 50/50 or 60/40. These blends affect the fabric's durability and comfort, making it widely used in clothing items such as T-shirts and underwear. Although it is an ideal base layer material, jersey fabric lacks the insulation and durability of some other textiles. [4] The name "Jersey" likely has roots in English and Old Norse, meaning "island," which reflects its geographic and historical origins. [5]
A common material for jersey fabric, varies by sheep breed. Finer wool, such as merino, is preferred for premium apparel, while coarser wool is used for carpets and heavy clothing.
The wool processing steps include scouring, which cleans the wool by removing dirt, grease, and sweat; carding, which untangles and smooths the wool into consistent strands; gilling, which aligns the fibers and removes impurities; and combing, which eliminates shorter fibers and vegetable matter, leaving only the long fibers for spinning. Drafting further thins the wool strands, preparing them for fine yarn production. Finally, spinning and twisting convert these strands into single yarns, often twisted together to create stronger, multi-ply yarns. [6] Depending on the type of wool and the processing methods used, the resulting yarns can be tailored for various applications, including carpets, upholstery, and high-quality clothing.
Both woolen and worsted yarns can be woven into fabrics, with worsted yarn yielding finer and smoother products. Woolen yarns, on the other hand, are tufted into carpets by stitching loops into a backing fabric, which can either be cut or left intact, then sealed for added strength.
Over the years, jersey fabric has evolved from a simple woolen material used for practical clothing to a versatile fabric that holds a prominent place in both everyday and luxury fashion. The addition of synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester in the 20th century further enhanced jersey's stretch, moisture control, and durability. [7] Today, modern jersey fabrics also include eco-friendly options made from organic and recycled materials. [8]
Jersey is a knitting method that produces a unique and versatile material. This knitting technique involves creating a lightweight and stretchy fabric by interlocking yarns in a series of loops. The result is jersey fabric, which is particularly well-suited for a variety of comfortable garments such as T-shirts, dresses, and athletic wear. [2]
Textile fibers can be broadly categorized into two main types: natural and synthetic. Natural fibers include plant-based materials, such as cotton and hemp, which are cherished for their comfort, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. Animal-based fibers like wool and silk are also included in this category.
Synthetic fibers are engineered and can be classified into two subcategories: regenerated fibers and purely synthetic fibers. Regenerated fibers, such as rayon and modal, are derived from natural materials like wood pulp but undergo chemical processing to create a new fiber. These fibers are celebrated for their ability to mimic the qualities of natural fibers while offering additional benefits, such as increased durability and a variety of textures. [9] Purely synthetic fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are created from petrochemicals and are designed for specific properties like high durability, resistance to wrinkles, and moisture-wicking capabilities. These fibers are often utilized in activewear and other functional clothing due to their performance characteristics.
The softness and breathability of natural fibers make them ideal for casual wear, while the durability and moisture resistance of synthetic fibers make them more suitable for athletic and outdoor clothing. Additionally, the interplay between different fibers in blends can enhance specific qualities, leading to fabrics that combine the best of both types. [10] The versatility of jersey fabric, combined with the diverse options in fiber selection, allows for a wide range of applications in the textile industry.
Jersey fabric is a versatile material created through a specific knitting technique, commonly used for various garments. The fabric can be a stretchy single-knit jersey, usually lightweight, with one flat side and one piled side, making it ideal for comfortable clothing like T-shirts. [11] When made as a double-knit (or interlock jersey), jersey fabric has less stretch and is heavier, with two layers of single jerseys knit together to create a fabric with flat sides on the exterior and piles in the center. [11] This type of knit is often used for polo shirts, especially those made from pima cotton, and is considered an elegant alternative to piqué.
Knitting techniques vary, with two primary styles being the English method and the Continental method. The English method, also known as "throwing," involves holding the yarn in the right hand, while the Continental method, where the yarn is held in the left hand, can facilitate faster knitting. In the UK, the English method is common, whereas the Continental approach is favored in Germany and Scandinavia, known for intricate patterns like Fair Isle and Norwegian knitting techniques. In North America, both methods are widely used. [12]
Jersey fabrics can be classified as follows:
In 2023, the global market for knitted fabrics is valued at approximately $27.99 billion, with projections indicating an annual growth rate of 5.1%, potentially reaching $46.03 billion by 2033. This growth is largely driven by the expanding apparel sector, which is expected to significantly influence the fabric market over the next decade. Additionally, the increasing application of knitted fabrics in various industries, including healthcare, manufacturing, construction, and automotive, is anticipated to further stimulate market growth.
Within the textile sector, the coated fabrics industry is also experiencing expansion. Coated fabrics undergo treatments that enhance their functionality, strength, and aesthetic appeal, making them valuable across several fields, including automotive, construction, healthcare, and fashion. The growth of this market is fueled by technological advancements, changing consumer preferences, and a rising demand for versatile, high-quality materials.
Historically, the incorporation of jersey into women's fashion can be traced back to Coco Chanel, who was the first to utilize this fabric in outerwear designs. During World War I, Chanel relocated from Paris to Deauville, where fabric shortages prompted her to open a new shop. She discovered that jersey, traditionally used for underwear, was not only affordable but also incredibly comfortable. Inspired by fishermen's sweaters, Chanel introduced jersey to women's fashion, although it was initially met with mixed reactions. Nevertheless, some of her customers quickly recognized the comfort and style that jersey offered, marking a significant breakthrough in her career.
Another prominent figure in the world of fashion is Madame Gres, born Germaine Emilie Krebs. A renowned couture designer, she initially trained as a sculptor and opened her fashion house, "Gres," in Paris in 1942. Known for her elegant gowns and critical perspective on ready-to-wear fashion—which she famously labeled "prostitution"—Madame Gres eventually launched her own ready-to-wear line. Active from the 1930s until the 1980s, many of her iconic gowns were made from jersey fabric. Her sculptural training greatly influenced her distinctive draping techniques, elevating her designs to an art form.
In recognition of her contributions to fashion, the Musée Bourdelle hosted an exhibition dedicated to Madame Gres, showcasing 80 of her designs, including works from her "Alix" period and collaborations with Givenchy. The exhibition featured 100 sketches and 50 original photographs of her creations, deeply moving observers with her exceptional talent and artistry. Through her innovative use of jersey and sculptural approach, both Chanel and Madame Gres left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, shaping the way jersey is perceived and utilized today.
Recent technological advancements have greatly influenced innovations in jersey fabric creation, particularly through smart textiles and wearable technology. Modern jersey fabrics can now incorporate sensors, heating elements, and LED lights, allowing them to interact with external stimuli. Additionally, digital printing technology enables designers to produce vibrant patterns and intricate designs on jersey fabric without sacrificing comfort. This has led to the inclusion of jersey knit in high-end fashion, featuring prominently in luxury items such as evening gowns, tailored blazers, and jumpsuits. The fabric’s inherent stretch and drape provide both elegance and comfort, making it appealing to designers who prioritize style and ease of movement.
Jersey fabric has been introduced in the Middle Ages on the Channel Islands. Where it got its name. Initially, it was viewed as suitable only for men’s clothing, mostly utilized in making men's fishermen's sweaters and underwear. A key shift in the fabric's trajectory happened in 1916 when Coco Chanel brought jersey into women’s fashion. By designing comfortable dresses and coats from Jersey. Chanel made Jersey useful for more than just traditional uses.
Jersey is different from woven fabrics because it is knitted, necessitating different handling during production. This knitting method makes jersey prized soft texture and stretchiness, allowing it to flow beautifully. While tricot was also used for T-shirts and dresses, jersey's thicker quality makes it particularly well-suited for garments such as pants, skirts, blazers, and coats. A grey jersey suit adorned with knitted stripes was once highly admired, although the specific fabric used was rare and expensive, making it difficult to replicate. Today, jersey fabric can be costly and harder to source on the market.
Further experimentation with jersey has led to innovations like casual pants with a more formal cut, capitalizing on the fabric's inherent stretch, which enhances comfort. Interestingly, when jersey is boiled, it shrinks significantly and adopts a rougher texture, making it ideal for outerwear like coats.
Jersey is a weft knit fabric that is knitted on a single set of needles with all loops meshing in the same direction. [13] By and large, it is knitted in plain stitch. [14] It is also called plain. [13] On the other hand, the double jersey is knit using two sets of needles, does not curl at the edges (when cut) and has a more stable structure. [14]
Crochet is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread, or strands of other materials. The name is derived from the French term crochet, which means 'hook'. Hooks can be made from a variety of materials, such as metal, wood, bamboo, bone or even plastic. The key difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the implements used for their production, is that each stitch in crochet is completed before the next one is begun, while knitting keeps many stitches open at a time. Some variant forms of crochet, such as Tunisian crochet and broomstick lace, do keep multiple crochet stitches open at a time.
Knitting is a method for production of textile fabrics by interlacing yarn loops with loops of the same or other yarns. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant.
Textile arts are arts and crafts that use plant, animal, or synthetic fibers to construct practical or decorative objects.
Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile that gives it a distinctive soft feel. Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Modern velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk-cotton blends, or synthetic-natural fiber blends.
Knitting is the process of using two or more needles to pull and loop yarn into a series of interconnected loops in order to create a finished garment or some other type of fabric. The word is derived from knot, thought to originate from the Dutch verb knutten, which is similar to the Old English cnyttan, "to knot". Its origins lie in the basic human need for clothing for protection against the elements. More recently, hand knitting has become less a necessary skill and more of a hobby.
Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of ~100,000, about 1900 monomer units. For a fiber to be called "acrylic" in the US, the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer. Typical comonomers are vinyl acetate or methyl acrylate. DuPont created the first acrylic fibers in 1941 and trademarked them under the name Orlon. It was first developed in the mid-1940s but was not produced in large quantities until the 1950s. Strong and warm, acrylic fiber is often used for sweaters and tracksuits and as linings for boots and gloves, as well as in furnishing fabrics and carpets. It is manufactured as a filament, then cut into short staple lengths similar to wool hairs, and spun into yarn.
Warp knitting is defined as a loop-forming process in which the yarn is fed into the knitting zone, parallel to the fabric selvage. It forms vertical loops in one course and then moves diagonally to knit the next course. Thus the yarns zigzag from side to side along the length of the fabric. Each stitch in a course is made by many different yarns. Each stitch in one wale is made by several different yarns.
Double knitting is a form of hand knitting in which two fabrics are knitted simultaneously on one pair of needles. The fabrics may be inseparable, as in interlock knitted fabrics, or they can simply be two unconnected fabrics. In principle, an arbitrary number of fabrics can be knitted simultaneously on one pair of knitting needles with yarns, as long as one is careful.
Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.
The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, with color and patterns, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of coloring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.
In clothing, heather refers to a color effect created by mixing two or more different colored fibers or yarns. It is interwoven yarns of mixed colors, and possibly the type of fiber, producing another color. It is typically used to mix multiple shades of grey or grey with another color to produce a muted shade, but any two colors can be mixed, including bright colors. A mixed fabric color is achieved by using different colors of fiber and mixing them together. Black and white fiber mixed will combine to give grey heather fiber. Heather is blended fibers combined to create a multicolored effect. Heather effect is also known as melange effect.
Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. Some linens, wools to be woven into tweed, and the uneven filaments of some types of silk are allowed to retain their normal irregularities, producing the characteristic uneven surface of the finished fabric. Man-made fibres, which can be modified during production, are especially adaptable for special effects such as crimping and texturizing.
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.
Dimensional stability pertains to a fabric's ability to maintain its initial size and shape even after undergoing wear and care, which is a desirable property. Textile manufacturing is based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, includes spinning, weaving, or knitting, etc. The fabric passes through many inevitable changes and mechanical forces during this journey. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium, and all stresses and strains are relaxed and the fabric tries to come back to its original state.
Maria Bogner was a German fashion designer credited with developing practical stretch pants, thereby profoundly affecting the direction of the ski fashion industry. She created colorful, sexy, and functional stretchy skiwear. Her husband's established ski apparel company, the development of stretch material in the 1950s, and her sewing skills all contributed to her success. Her stretch pants, as modeled by leading ski athletes of the period, provided aerodynamic, form-fitting cut, color variety and practicality as ski garments.
Ponte is a thick, double knit fabric design produced on double jersey knitting machines. It is one of the firm, stable structures of knits with a subtle sheen. This fabric is heavier and thicker than a regular jersey. As with most of the other double knit designs, Ponte is reversible. The fabric is also known as ''Ponte di Roma.''
A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.