Herringbone (cloth)

Last updated
Donegal tweed (an example of herringbone) Donegal Tweed.JPG
Donegal tweed (an example of herringbone)
Reversible camouflage HBTs Normandycamof.jpg
Reversible camouflage HBTs

Herringbone, also called broken twill weave, [1] describes a distinctive V-shaped weaving pattern usually found in twill fabric. It is distinguished from a plain chevron by the break at reversal, which makes it resemble a broken zigzag. The pattern is called herringbone because it resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. [2] Herringbone-patterned fabric is usually wool, and is one of the most popular cloths used for suits and outerwear. [3] Tweed cloth is often woven with a herringbone pattern.

Contents

Fatigue uniforms made from cotton in this weave were used by several militaries during and after World War II; in US use, they were often called HBTs. [4] [5]

History

Various herringbone weaves have been found in antiquity:

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tartan</span> Predominantly Scottish cloth pattern

Tartan is a patterned cloth consisting of criss-crossed, horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours, forming simple or complex rectangular patterns. Tartans originated in woven wool, but now are made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland, and Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns. The earliest surviving samples of tartan-style cloth are around 3,000 years old and were discovered in Xinjiang, China.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Serge (fabric)</span> Type of twill fabric

Serge is a type of twill fabric that has diagonal lines or ridges on both inner and outer surfaces via a two-up, two-down weave. The worsted variety is used in making military uniforms, suits, greatcoats, and trench coats. Its counterpart, silk serge, is used for linings. French serge is a softer, finer variety. The word is also used for a high-quality woven woolen fabric.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Twill</span> Woven fabric textile weave

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves along with plain weave and satin. It is made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step," or offset, between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Flannel</span> Soft woven fabric with a lightly napped surface

Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double cloth</span> Woven textile type

Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Belted plaid</span> Large piece of fabric wrapped around the body, loosely gathered and belted at the waist

The belted plaid is a large blanket-like piece of fabric which is wrapped around the body with the material pleated or, more accurately, loosely gathered and secured at the waist by means of a belt. Typically, a portion of the belted plaid hangs down to about the knees or ankles with the rest of the material being wrapped up around the upper body in a variety of ways and pinned or otherwise secured to keep it in place.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Houndstooth</span> Two-color broken check pattern

Houndstooth, hounds tooth check or hound's tooth, also known as dogstooth, dogtooth, dog's tooth,, , is a duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks or abstract four-pointed shapes, traditionally in black and white or such contrasting dark and light pattern.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tweed</span> Rough, unfinished woollen fabric, of a soft, open texture

Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile design</span> Creation of designs for the manufacturing of woven, knitted or printed fabrics

Textile design, also known as textile geometry, is the creative and technical process by which thread or yarn fibers are interlaced to form a piece of cloth or fabric, which is subsequently printed upon, or otherwise adorned. Textile design is further broken down into three major disciplines: printed textile design, woven textile design, and mixed media textile design. Each of which uses different methods to produce a fabric for variable uses and markets. Textile design as an industry is involved in other disciplines such as fashion, interior design, and fine arts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broadcloth</span> Dense, woven cloth, historically of wool

Broadcloth is a dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider and then heavily milled in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cloth of gold</span> Rich Medieval fabric woven with gold thread or a combination of gold and silk

Cloth of gold or gold cloth is a fabric woven with a gold-wrapped or spun weft—referred to as "a spirally spun gold strip". In most cases, the core yarn is silk, wrapped (filé) with a band or strip of high content gold. In rarer instances, fine linen and wool have been used as the core.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Units of textile measurement</span> Systems for measuring textiles

Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Border tartan</span> Checked fabric associated with the Anglo-Scottish Border country

Border tartan, sometimes known as Borders tartan, Northumbrian tartan, Northumberland tartan, shepherds' plaid, shepherds' check, Border drab, or Border check, is a design used in woven fabrics historically associated with the Anglo-Scottish Border, particularly with the Scottish Borders and Northumberland. Possibly the most identifiable Border tartan garment of the region is the maud, made popular from the 1820s by fashionable Border Scots such as Sir Walter Scott, James Hogg, Henry Scott Riddell and Robert Burns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Radiocarbon dating of the Shroud of Turin</span>

The Shroud of Turin, a linen cloth that tradition associates with the crucifixion and burial of Jesus, has undergone numerous scientific tests, the most notable of which is radiocarbon dating, in an attempt to determine the relic's authenticity. In 1988, scientists at three separate laboratories dated samples from the Shroud to a range of 1260–1390 AD, which coincides with the first certain appearance of the shroud in the 1350s and is much later than the burial of Jesus in 30 or 33 AD. Aspects of the 1988 test continue to be debated. Despite some technical concerns that have been raised about radiocarbon dating of the Shroud, no radiocarbon-dating expert has asserted that the dating is substantially unreliable.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Charvet (fabric)</span>

A charvet fabric is woven of silk or acetate in warp-faced rib weave, of a reversed reps type with a double ridge effect. The fabric's name derives from its frequent and "clever" use in the 19th century by the Parisian shirtmaker Charvet. It is characterized by a soft handle and shiny appearance. It also drapes well. The bindings create a herringbone effect parallel to the warp, which make this weave suitable for creating faint diagonal stripe effects for ties, for which the fabric is cut on the bias. Patterns on this base are often made with supplementary weft. The fabric has also been used for mufflers, scarves and robes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Barathea</span> Soft fabric, with a broken twill weave giving a surface that is lightly pebbled or ribbed

Barathea, sometimes spelled barrathea, is a soft fabric, with a broken twill weft rib, giving a surface that is lightly pebbled or ribbed, with the effect of a twill running both left and right. Originally developed as a cloth for mourning clothes in the 1840s, it took several decades to become popular for other purposes, due to its association with bereavement.

Melton cloth is traditionally made of wool and is woven in a twill form. It is thick, due to having been well fulled, which gives it a felt-like smooth surface. It is napped and very closely sheared. Meltons are similar to Mackinaw cloth. It is a very solid cloth in which the twill weave pattern is completely concealed due to the finishing processes. Because of its dense, quasi-felted texture it frays minimally or not at all. It is hard wearing and wind and weather resistant. Its main use is for heavy outer garments and coats and for blankets. In lighter weights melton cloth is traditionally used for lining the underside of jacket collars.

References

  1. Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988). Fairchild's dictionary of fashion . New York: Fairchild Publications. ISBN   0870056352. OCLC   17932099.
  2. "The RL Style Guide | Glossary | Herringbone". Ralph Lauren . Archived from the original on 2011-10-05. Retrieved 2008-11-24.
  3. Fashion Institute of Technology (2006). ""The Tailor's Art," Menswear Fabrics - A Glossary". The Museum at FIT. Archived from the original on 2013-06-05. Retrieved 2008-11-24.
  4. Stanton, Shelby (1992). "Summer Work and Service Uniforms". U.S. Army Uniforms of the Korean War. Stackpole Books. pp. 86–98. ISBN   0811729524.
  5. Robinson, Aaron (2009-08-19). "Storming Normandy in a World War II Jeep". Car and Driver. Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. Retrieved 2019-04-29.
  6. 1 2 3 Fulbright, Diana (2010). "Akeldama repudiation of Turin Shroud omits evidence from the Judean Desert" (PDF). In Paolo Di Lazzaro (ed.). Proceedings of the International Workshop on the Scientific Approach to the Acheiropoietos Images. Frascati: ENEA. ISBN   978-88-8286-232-9.
  7. Shamir, Orit (2015). "A burial textile from the first century CE in Jerusalem compared to roman textiles in the land of Israel and the Turin Shroud". SHS Web of Conferences. EDP Sciences. 15. doi: 10.1051/shsconf/20151500010 . ISSN   2261-2424.
  8. Tyrer, John (December 1981). "Looking at the Turin Shroud as a Textile" (PDF). Textile Horizons. pp. 20–23.
  9. Bailey, Geoff P. (2019). "The Falkirk Tartan" (PDF). A History of Falkirk in 10 ½ Objects. Falkirk Local History Society.
  10. "Tartan Details - Falkirk". The Scottish Register of Tartans. Archived from the original on 2023-01-18. Retrieved 2023-02-01.