Tweed is a rough, woollenfabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun.[1]
Tweeds are a staple of traditional Scottish, Irish, Welsh, and English clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear,[2] due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable. Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climates[3] and are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is now most associated with County Donegal but originally covered the whole country.[4] In Scotland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with the Isle of Harris in the Hebrides.
Etymology
Tweed making at the Leach family woollen mill at Mochdre, Powys, Wales, 1940
The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. Around 1831, a London merchant, James Locke, received a letter from a Hawick firm, Wm. Watson & Sons, Dangerfield Mills about some "tweels". The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since.[5]
During the 2000s and 2010s, members of long-established British and American land-owning families started to wear high-quality heirloom tweed inherited from their grandparents, some of which pre-dated the Second World War.[11][12]
In modern times, cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a Tweed Run. This practice has its roots in the British young fogey and hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s, whose adherents appreciate both vintage tweed, and bicycles.[13]
Musical instruments
Some vintage Danemannupright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism. Occasionally, Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool.[14]
The term "tweed" is used to describe coverings on instrument cables and vintage or retroguitar amplifiers, such as the Fender tweed and Fender Tweed Deluxe.[15] Despite the terminology, many of these coverings were not considered tweed but cotton twill due to the cover's design, which caused this misidentification of the design.
Types of tweed
Harris Tweed represents the pinnacle of authenticity and tradition in the world of tweeds, being the most famous and, without doubt, the most rigorously regulated of all. Its history is intrinsically linked to the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, a remote archipelago that includes Lewis, Harris, Uist, and Barra. It is here, and only here, that true Harris Tweed can be produced. Its legitimacy is protected by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, a British legislation that guarantees that, to be considered Harris Tweed, the fabric must be "dyed, spun and handwoven by islanders in their own homes, in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, and finished in the Outer Hebrides." This is a crucial safeguard, ensuring that every yard is a genuinely handcrafted product, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive and sustaining the local economy. In terms of composition, Harris Tweed is made from 100% virgin wool, often sourced from local sheep like the Cheviot and Scottish Blackface, known for their durable and voluminous fiber. What truly distinguishes it is the dyeing process: the threads are dyed before spinning, which allows multiple colors to be intrinsically blended, creating a visual depth and complex patterns that would be impossible with post-weaving dyeing. This technique gives the fabric its characteristic mottled and richly toned appearance. The importance of Harris Tweed transcends fashion; it is an emblem of quality, authenticity, and Scottish cultural heritage. The Orb Mark, an official seal of the Harris Tweed Authority, is the ultimate guarantee of its provenance and unquestionable quality. Due to its robustness and beauty, it is widely used for coats, blazers, vests, and jackets, being a favorite for the classic "sport coat" or a hunting jacket. Skirts, trousers, and a wide range of accessories like bags and hats also benefit from its durability and style. Beyond apparel, Harris Tweed is a popular choice for high-quality furniture upholstery, such as sofas and armchairs, adding a touch of rustic elegance and sophistication to interiors seeking a refined country feel. The characteristics of Harris Tweed are unmistakable. Its texture is palpable and irregular, often with a slightly softer feel than more rustic tweeds, but maintaining the robust feel of the wool. The patterns are incredibly varied, including the classic herringbone, various types of plaid, twill, and complex compositions of blended colors. The colors are often inspired by the Hebridean landscape itself: the deep greens of the fields, the blues of the ocean and sky, the browns of the peat bogs, and the purples of the heather, all in subtle, organic tones. Its durability is legendary, being extremely wear-resistant, and its weight ranges from medium to heavy, providing exceptional thermal insulation, ideal for facing cold winds and winter dampness.
Donegal Tweed is at the heart of Irish textile tradition, carrying with it the spirit of the rugged landscape and the ingenuity of its artisans. Originating from County Donegal, Ireland, its production is similarly rooted in artisanal methods, although it does not have the same strict legal protection of location as Harris Tweed, meaning various manufacturers can produce "Donegal style" without being strictly within the region. The composition of Donegal Tweed is 100% wool, and its visual signature lies in the distinctive "neps" or "flecks": small, colorful specks of wool randomly inserted into the fabric. These vibrant "dots," which stand out against the solid base color of the fabric, are what give Donegal Tweed its unmistakable, dotted, and lively appearance. This nep insertion technique is a testament to the creativity of weavers who sought to add color and texture to wool fabrics. Its importance lies in its representation of Ireland's rich cultural and artisanal tapestry. It is a symbol of the skill and persistence of Irish weavers in creating beauty from natural resources. Donegal Tweed is widely used for coats, blazers, and vests, but its strongest association is perhaps with the famous Irish hats (Donegal caps) and flat caps, which have become an icon of casual, rustic style. It can also be found in some home decor items, adding warmth and texture. The characteristics of Donegal Tweed are marked by its authenticity. Its texture is rustic and slightly rough to the touch, yet with a suppleness that makes it comfortable for apparel. The base patterns are often simple twills or plains, allowing the neps to be the true stars of the show. The base colors are typically earthy tones, grays, and blues that evoke the Irish landscape, but the neps add bursts of contrasting colors—yellow, red, blue, green—creating a fascinating visual effect. It is a durable and resilient fabric, ideal for daily wear and for facing cold, damp climates. Generally, its weight ranges from medium to heavy, providing good thermal insulation.
Cheviot Tweed embodies resilience and hardiness, taking its name from the robust Cheviot sheep that inhabit mountainous regions. Its origin lies in the border regions of Scotland and England, areas where Cheviot sheep are raised and where climatic conditions demanded exceptionally strong wool. The composition of this tweed is, of course, Cheviot sheep's wool. This wool is intrinsically harsher and more resilient compared to finer wools from other breeds. This fiber characteristic is what gives the fabric its distinctive toughness and ability to withstand the elements, making it ideal for use in challenging environments. The importance of Cheviot Tweed lies in its unparalleled durability and resistance to adverse weather conditions. It was, and still is, the preferred fabric for clothing that requires maximum protection, especially for outdoor activities. It is the perfect fabric for hunting attire, country coats, and work jackets—any garment that needs extra resistance to wear, moisture, and tearing. The characteristics of Cheviot Tweed clearly distinguish it. Its texture is notably harsh and crisp to the touch, with a drier, stiffer "hand" than other tweeds. This stiffness contributes to its ability to hold shape and offer protection. While it may feature a variety of weave patterns, the texture of the fiber itself and its density are the primary highlights. Its durability is exceptional, being highly resistant to abrasion and shrinking, capable of withstanding years of intense use. As for weight, it is generally heavy, making it incredibly warm and an excellent protector against wind and light rain.
Saxony Tweed represents the more luxurious and refined side of the tweed universe, offering the robustness and classic look, but with a superior soft touch. Its origin dates back to the Saxony region in Germany, where sheep were specifically bred to produce finer and softer wools than the more traditional British breeds. Its composition is typically merino wool, globally known as one of the finest and softest wools available. It is this high-quality fiber that gives Saxony Tweed its characteristic softness, drastically differentiating it from more rustic tweeds. The importance of Saxony Tweed lies in its ability to combine the classic tweed aesthetic with unparalleled comfort. It bridges the gap between the robust functionality of tweed and the refined elegance of tailoring. This makes it particularly suitable for luxury apparel and more formal wear, where a soft hand feel is valued. Thus, it is ideal for crafting suits, blazers, and more elegant coats that seek the appearance of tweed but with a more fluid drape and superior next-to-skin comfort. The characteristics of Saxony Tweed are notable for its relative delicacy. Its texture is significantly softer and more flexible to the touch compared to other tweeds, often with an almost velvety feel. Patterns tend to be more subtle and colors more refined, which is due to the fineness of the wool, allowing for more precise weaves. While still a durable tweed, it prioritizes comfort over extreme hardiness, making it less likely to be used in heavy-duty conditions but perfect for everyday wear and social events. The weight of Saxony Tweed ranges from medium to light for a tweed, resulting in a more malleable fabric with an elegant drape.
Shetland Tweed is a lighter and softer option, yet still possessing the unmistakable character of tweed, named in honor of the Shetland sheep from the islands of the same name. Its origin is in the Shetland Islands, Scotland, an archipelago in the far north, where sheep developed a particularly light, soft, and simultaneously warm wool, ideal for coping with the local climate without excessive bulk. The composition of Shetland Tweed is Shetland sheep's wool, a fiber that is naturally lighter and softer than that of many other sheep breeds. This characteristic of the wool allows the fabric to be more flexible and less bulky while maintaining excellent thermal insulation. Its importance lies in offering a version of tweed that is less heavy and has a softer feel, making it a versatile choice for garments that require a certain degree of warmth and texture without the volume or stiffness of heavier tweeds. It is frequently used for lighter blazers, and when knitted, results in high-quality sweaters. Skirts, trousers, and other transitional pieces that need warmth without extreme weight are also ideal for Shetland Tweed. The characteristics of Shetland Tweed are marked by its lightness and softness. Its texture is soft and slightly fuzzy, though it still maintains the visible weave and rustic appearance inherent to tweed. The patterns are often classic tweed designs, with colors that reflect the landscape and environment of the Shetland Islands, often in lighter, subtler tones. Its durability is good for its weight, but it is not as robust or resistant as Cheviot or Harris Tweed for extremely heavy use, focusing more on comfort and malleability. The weight is notably lighter compared to most other tweeds, which provides greater comfort, a more fluid drape, and flexibility for various applications.
Production and Distribution Chain
The starting point of the chain is raw wool, primarily sourced from sheep raised in the tweed's regions of origin – such as the Outer Hebrides of Scotland for Harris Tweed, or County Donegal in Ireland for Donegal Tweed.
Sheep Rearing: Sheep breeds like Cheviot, Scottish Blackface, or Shetland are raised in environments that have historically shaped the quality and robustness of their wool. The quality of pasture and the climate influence the fiber.
Shearing: Sheep shearing usually takes place once a year, in spring or early summer. The shorn wool is collected and undergoes an initial sorting to remove larger impurities and separate the wool by quality.
After shearing, the raw wool goes through several preparation stages before becoming yarn.
Scouring: The wool is washed to remove lanolin (the wool's natural wax), dirt, grease, and other residues. This is a crucial process to clean the fiber without damaging it.
Carding: The washed wool is carded, a process that aligns the fibers, removes small debris, and prepares them for spinning. This can be done in large industrial machines or, in the case of Harris Tweed, in specific facilities on the islands.
Dyeing: One of tweed's most distinctive stages, especially for Harris Tweed, is the dyeing of the threads before spinning. This allows multiple fiber colors to be blended during spinning, creating the mottled tones and characteristic color depth of tweed. For other tweeds, dyeing might occur at different stages, but "fiber dyeing" is a key differentiator.
With the wool clean, carded, and dyed, the next step is to transform it into yarn.
Spinning: The wool fibers are stretched and twisted to form threads. This process can be done in factories with modern machinery, but for Harris Tweed, historically and by law, the main spinning process must also take place in the Outer Hebrides. The resulting threads are robust and suitable for weaving.
Weaving is the stage where the yarn is transformed into the characteristic tweed fabric.
Warping: The warp threads (the longitudinal threads that form the fabric's base) are prepared and loaded onto the loom.
Weaving: This is the heart of tweed production. The weft threads (the threads that cross the warp) are interlaced to create the tweed's pattern (twill, herringbone, plaid, etc.). For Harris Tweed, this stage is performed on hand looms or foot-powered looms (fly-shuttle looms) in the weavers' homes in the Outer Hebrides. For other tweeds, weaving might occur in larger factories with industrial looms. The choice of weave type defines the tweed's initial texture and appearance.
Once woven, the tweed still needs a finishing process to achieve its final quality.
Fulling/Milling: The fabric is washed and milled to shrink slightly and compact the fibers, making it denser, more water-resistant, and durable. This process also helps to "felt" the surface, binding the threads together and giving tweed its characteristic "hand." For Harris Tweed, this final finishing step must also be carried out in the Outer Hebrides.
Drying and Pressing: The fabric is dried and pressed to smooth the surface and remove wrinkles, preparing it for inspection and cutting.
Inspection and Orb Mark (for Harris Tweed): In the case of Harris Tweed, each roll of fabric undergoes rigorous inspection by the Harris Tweed Authority. If approved, it receives the iconic Orb Mark of authentication, which is applied to the selvedge of the fabric, guaranteeing its legitimacy and quality.
With the finished and authenticated fabric, it moves to the distribution and product manufacturing stages.
Raw Fabric Sales: Tweed can be sold in rolls to fabric wholesalers, tailors, and fashion designers who wish to create their own pieces.
Manufacturing of Final Products:
Apparel: The fabric is cut and sewn into coats, blazers, vests, skirts, trousers, and accessories (bags, hats, ties) by apparel manufacturers. These manufacturers can range from small tailoring workshops to large fashion brands.
Interior Decoration: Tweed is used by furniture manufacturers and interior designers for upholstery of sofas, armchairs, cushions, and curtains.
Musical Instruments: For guitar amplifiers and cases, tweed is cut and applied as an external covering.
Sales Channels: Final products reach the consumer through:
Retail Stores: Boutiques, department stores, specialized British or country fashion shops.
Tailors: For custom-made pieces.
Music Stores: For amplifiers and instrument cases.
Home Decor/Furniture Stores: For home items.
Online Platforms: Brands' own e-commerce sites, marketplaces, and global distributors.
Chemical Composition of Tweed
The foundational material of tweed is wool, a natural fiber. While some modern variations might include small amounts of other fibers (like silk for a softer hand, or synthetics for increased abrasion resistance in specific uses), authentic and traditional tweed is 100% virgin wool.
The quality and characteristics of the final tweed are directly influenced by the breed of sheep from which the wool is obtained. For example:
Cheviot Wool: Produces a more robust and coarse fiber, resulting in tougher and stiffer tweeds.
Merino/Saxony Wool: Offers a finer and softer fiber, ideal for tweeds with a smoother feel and a more elegant drape.
Shetland Wool: Known for its lightness and softness, while still offering good durability.
The choice of pure wool is fundamental to tweed's inherent properties of thermal insulation, breathability, and natural resilience.
Wool is a protein fiber, meaning its primary chemical composition is of proteins. The dominant protein in wool is keratin, a complex polymer composed of long chains of amino acids.
Chemical Composition of Keratin: Keratin is primarily composed of elements such as carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), and distinctively, sulfur (S). The presence of sulfur is particularly important as it's responsible for the formation of disulfide bonds (-S-S-), which are crucial for the wool fiber's structure and resilience. Estimates for the elemental composition of wool keratin generally indicate approximately 50% Carbon, 12% Hydrogen, 10% Oxygen, 25% Nitrogen, and 3% Sulfur, though this can vary slightly.
Molecular Structure of Keratin: At a molecular level, keratin chains primarily form alpha-helices (α-helices). These helices are polypeptide chains that coil, stabilized by internal hydrogen bonds. Several of these alpha-helices then bundle together to form more complex structures called intermediate filaments, which are the fibrillar units within the wool fiber cell.
Disulfide bonds (sulfur bridges) act as covalent "cross-links" between different keratin chains or between different sections of the same chain. These cross-links give wool its remarkable elasticity, resilience, and ability to recover its original shape, as well as its resistance to chemical and biological damage under certain conditions. They allow the fiber to be stretched and return to its original form without breaking.
Functional Groups: Keratin also contains functional groups like amine groups (-NH2) and carboxyl groups (-COOH), which give wool amphoteric properties (the ability to react with both acids and bases), influencing its dyeing capability and resistance to chemicals.
The individual wool fiber, which makes up the tweed yarn, has a complex microstructure that contributes to the fabric's properties:
Cuticle (Outer Layer): The outermost layer of the wool fiber is composed of small, overlapping scale-like cells (like roof tiles), called the cuticle. These scales, which generally point from the base to the tip of the fiber, contribute to wool's insulating properties and its ability to trap heat. They are also responsible for wool's "scratchy" feel and its tendency to shrink ("felt") under certain conditions of moisture and agitation.
Cortex (Inner Layer): Beneath the cuticle, the cortex constitutes the bulk of the fiber. It is composed of long, spindle-shaped cells, which in turn contain the keratin microfibrils and macrofibrils. The orientation of these cells and fibrils influences the fiber's strength and elasticity.
Medulla (Central Core, Optional): Some wool fibers (especially coarser ones) possess a hollow or partially hollow central channel called the medulla. The medulla can influence thermal insulation and the fiber's ability to absorb dyes, though not all wool fibers possess one.
The macroscopic structure of tweed refers to how the yarns are woven to create the visible fabric. This structure contributes to tweed's texture, drape, and durability.
Coarse and Irregular Yarns: The wool yarns used in tweed are typically coarser and may exhibit some irregularity (especially in traditionally produced tweeds like Harris Tweed), which contributes to their rustic texture and "organic" appearance. In Donegal Tweed, the inclusion of "neps" (small, colorful wool knots) during spinning or weaving creates the characteristic flecked appearance.
Weave Types: The weave is fundamental to tweed's appearance and properties. Common weaves include:
Twill Weave: This is the most frequent weave, characterized by distinct diagonal lines on the fabric surface. This structure gives tweed its flexibility, strength, and durability, as the diagonal weave is more resistant to wrinkling and wear than a plain weave.
Herringbone: A variation of the twill weave, where the diagonals reverse at regular intervals, creating a zigzag pattern resembling a fish's skeleton.
Plaid/Check: Many tweeds, especially estate tweeds, use complex checkered patterns formed by the intersection of different colored yarns in the warp and weft.
Plain Weave: Although less common in classic tweeds, a plain weave (one over, one under) can be used, resulting in a simpler, more uniform fabric.
Density and Weight: Tweed is generally a dense, medium-to-heavyweight fabric. This density, achieved through robust yarns and finishing processes like "fulling" (where the fabric is beaten to compact the fibers), contributes to its ability to retain heat and resist wind and water. The "open" or "airy" structure often described in tweed actually refers to its surface texture and wool's breathability, rather than a truly loose weave.
↑ Kirkpatrick, Betty (2015). Treacle, Toast and Tweed ... English Word Origins for Language Lovers. Crombie Jardine Publishing Ltd. ISBN978-1326384067.
↑ Edward Minister and Son (August 1872). "The Norfolk Jacket". Gazette of Fashion, and Cutting-room Companion. 27 (316). Simpkin, Marshall & Co: 31.
"History of Harris Tweed". Harris Tweed Authority. Available at: https://harristweed.org/the-cloth/history-of-harris-tweed/
"The Difference Between Worsted and Woollen Yarns". The Fibre Co. Available at: https://thefibreco.com/the-difference-between-worsted-and-woollen-yarns/
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