Poplin

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Poplin Popel 101.jpg
Poplin
Poplin dress embroidered with grape vines from Aguascalientes at the Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico City MAPElNorte078.JPG
Poplin dress embroidered with grape vines from Aguascalientes at the Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico City

Poplin, also called tabinet (or tabbinet), [1] is a fine (but thick) wool, cotton or silk fabric that has a vertical warp and a horizontal weft. Nowadays, the name refers to a strong material in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically give a corded surface. [2]

Poplin traditionally consisted of a silk warp with a weft of worsted yarn. In this case, as the weft is in the form of a stout cord, the fabric has a ridged structure, like rep, which gives depth and softness to the lustre of the silky surface. [3] The ribs run across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. In Britain, woolen yarn from the spinners in Suffolk would be sent to Dublin to be woven with silk into tabinet. [4]

Poplin is now made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, polyester or a mixture of these. Since it has a plain under/over weave, the fabric displays a plain woven surface with no ribbing if the weft and warp threads are of the same material and size. Shirts made from this material are easy to iron and do not wrinkle easily.

Poplins are used for dress purposes, and for rich upholstery work which are formed by using coarse filling-yarns in a plain/hard weave.

The term "poplin" allegedly originates from papelino, a fabric made at Avignon, France, [5] in the 15th century, and named for the papal (pope's) residence there, [6] and from the French papeline (a fabric, normally made with silk, of the same period). [2] An alternative derivation associates "poplin" with products of the cloth industry of Poperinge in Flanders in present-day Belgium. [7] [8]

The most common usage of poplin until about the 20th century was to make silk, cotton or heavy-weight wool dresses, suitable for winter wear.

In the early 1920s, British-made cotton poplin was introduced to the United States, but the American market thought that the name had connotations of heaviness and arbitrarily renamed it "broadcloth", a name that persists for a cotton or polyester-cotton blend fabric used for shirting. [9] In Europe, "broadcloth" typically describes a densely-woven woolen fabric with a smooth finish. [10] [ need quotation to verify ]

See also

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Woven fabric</span> Textiles formed by weaving

Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, or a mixture of both, such as cotton and polyester.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Satin</span> Shiny, fragile fabric weave pattern, with long floats

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double cloth</span> Woven textile type

Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sateen</span> Fabric

Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but with spun yarn instead of filament yarn. It is a cotton or other non-silk fabric that has the characteristics of silk satin but is less expensive.

Sendal, cendal or sandal is a thin and light silk material, chiefly used to make ceremonial clothing, church vestments, and banners. The word derives from Greek σινδων (sindōn), "fine linen"; the old French word is cendal. The word often describes a fabric woven of a linen warp and a silk weft.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broadcloth</span> Dense, woven cloth, historically of wool

Broadcloth is a dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider and then heavily milled in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocade</span> Decorative shuttle-woven fabric

Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in coloured silks and sometimes with gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth", originally past participle of the verb broccare "to stud, set with nails", from brocco, "small nail", from Latin broccus, "projecting, pointed".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Waffle fabric</span> Type of woven or knit fabric

Waffle fabric, also known as honeycomb fabric, has raised threads that form small rectangles. It can be made by either weaving or knitting. Waffle weave is a further exploitation of plain weave and twill weave which produces a three-dimensional effect. The combination of warp and weft floats creates the structure. It is woven partly on tabby areas surrounded by ridges of long floats. The weave consists of warp and weft floats arranged around a plain weave center. The warp and weft threads are interlaced and floating in a way that creates small square ridges and hollows in the fabric in a regular pattern.

Mockado is a woollen pile fabric made in imitation of silk velvet from the mid-sixteenth century. Mockado was usually constructed with a woollen pile on a linen or worsted wool warp and woollen weft, although the ground fabric could be any combination of wool, linen, and silk. Mockado was used for furnishings and carpeting, and also for clothing such as doublets, farthingales, and kirtles.

Gazar is a silk or wool plain weave fabric made with high-twist double yarns woven as one. Gazar has a crisp hand and a smooth texture.

Eolienne is a lightweight fabric with a ribbed (corded) surface. Generally made by combining silk and cotton or silk and worsted warp and weft, it is similar to poplin but of an even lighter weight.

Bourette is a silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sussi (cloth)</span> Striped cloth.

Sussi or susi is a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth produced mainly in Sindh. Sussi is thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. Sindh region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century.

Momie cloth is a pebble-surfaced crêpe structure made of any natural or synthetic yarns. Momie crepe is a light weight material made of cotton.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocatelle</span> Silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs

Brocatelle is a silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs. The material is characterized by satin effects standing out in relief in the warp against a flat ground. It is produced with jacquard weave by using silk, rayon, cotton, or many synthetic yarns.

Barege (Barège) was a lightweight, sheer fabric matching a gauze. It was a union fabric made of silk and wool. Barege was a 19th-century fabric and originated from southwestern France. It takes its name from the town of Barèges but was mostly made in the town of Bagnères-de-Bigorre.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Faille</span> Type of corded fabric

Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Swivel weave</span> Decorative weave

The swivel weave is a weaving technique that incorporates a decorative element into the fabric by using small shuttles that insert additional weft thread around selected warp threads, while the main weft thread forms the fabric's structure. This method differs from the plain weave, which lacks this decorative aspect.

References

  1. Singh, SINGH (22 May 2024). Hotel Housekeeping. Tata Mc Graw Hill education. p. 252. ISBN   9781259050534.
  2. 1 2 "poplin". The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers (via Credo Reference). Thames & Hudson. 2007. Retrieved 5 June 2011.
  3. Wikisource-logo.svg One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain :  Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Poplin". Encyclopædia Britannica . Vol. 22 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 90.
  4. Raynbird, William; Raynbird, Hugh (1849). On the Agriculture of Suffolk. Longman and Company. p. 286.
  5. Boucoiran, Louis (1875). Dictionnaire analogique & étymologique des idiomes. p. 1003.
  6. Library of Congress Subject Headings. 2007. p. 5850.
  7. "poplin" . Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press.(Subscription or participating institution membership required.) - "Alteration by folk etymology (after pope n.1) of French †papeline (1667), apparently a transferred use of a form (with -l- for -r- ) of the name of Poperinge, a town in Flanders [...] noted for its textile production [...]. French popeline (1735) is apparently reborrowed < English."
  8. Cave, Nigel (29 March 1990). "Poperinge (WWI)/Vlamertinge". Battleground Europe: A Guide to Battlefields in France & Flanders. Barnsley, South Yorkshire: Wharncliffe. p. 86. ISBN   9781871647020 . Retrieved 20 December 2022. [...] Poperinge gave us the word 'poplin'.
  9. Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (17 September 2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. ISBN   9781609015350. When it was introduced in the U.S. during the early 1920s, the British name poplin was not used because it was felt that this connoted a heavier fabric. Instead the name broadcloth was given with relatively little reason for the choice of term.
  10. Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (17 September 2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. ISBN   9781609015350.