Organdy

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Little girl in an organdy dress. Circa 1900. Valencian Museum of Ethnology collection. Xiquets Torrent - Organdi (26675711050).jpg
Little girl in an organdy dress. Circa 1900. Valencian Museum of Ethnology collection.

Organdy, also spelled Organdie, [1] is a kind of fabric. It is a lightweight, balanced plain weave made of cotton with features of sheerness and crispness. [2] [3]

Contents

Characteristics

Organdy is a stiffened material; sheerest among its peers, which include lawn cloth and Batiste. Often, these materials may come from the same grey goods, and are differentiated from each other in how they are finished. Organdy's sheerness and crispness are attributed to the acid finish (parchmentising) whereas the lawn cloth is finished with starch or resin, and Batiste is a softer fabric type. [4] [1] Finer yarns with higher twist counts are used in superior quality organdy. [1]

Process

Organdy is an acid stiffened cloth. Its sheerness and crispness is the result of an acid finish, where the fabric is treated with sulfuric acid solution for a short period and then neutralized to remove excessive acid in a process called "parchmentisation". The parchmentisation is a treatment of acid on cellulosic textiles in the pursuit of obtaining the characteristic of the parchment. The finish offers a stiffened and translucent effect not dissimilar from silk organza. [5] Figured Organdy is produced by applying an acid-resisting substance to a localised area; on the contrary, immersing it completely makes it stiffen all over. The objective of all-over parchmentizing is to create a transparent cloth. [4]

Use

Organdy was historically used for bridal dresses, ladies party dresses, and blouses. Organdy was a useful material as a Casement cloth, sheers, and lining etc. [1] In the late 19th through mid 20th centuries, young girls wore dresses made of organdy. [6] In the 21st century, this material has fallen out of favor in the childrenswear market because of its tendency to wrinkle, which can be attributed to its stiffness. [4] Today, organdy is most often seen in high fashion collections by designers such as Marc Jacobs.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

Lawn cloth or lawn is a fine plain weave textile, made with fine combed cotton. Terms also used include batiste and nainsook. Originally the name applied to plain weave linen, and linen lawn is also called "handkerchief linen". The term lawn is also used in the textile industry to refer to a type of starched crisp finish given to a cloth product. The finish can be applied to a variety of fine fabrics, prints or plain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cambric</span> Soft, plain-woven cotton or linen fabric with a lustrous finish

Cambric or batiste is a fine dense cloth. It is a lightweight plain-weave fabric, originally from the commune of Cambrai, woven greige, then bleached, piece-dyed, and often glazed or calendered. Initially it was made of linen; from the 18th and 19th centuries the term came to apply to cotton fabrics as well.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ninon</span> Lightweight, transparent sheer fabric

Ninon is a lightweight, sheer fabric made with plain or leno weaving, it is a suitable material for curtains, evening wear and lingerie. Ninon is made with variety of filament yarns such as polyester, silk, rayon or nylon.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Organza</span> Sheer, crisp, plain-woven fabric made from silk or synthetics

Organza is a thin, plain weave, sheer fabric traditionally made from silk. Many modern organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon. Silk organza is woven by a number of mills along the Yangtze River and in the province of Zhejiang in China. A coarser silk organza is woven in the Bangalore area of India. Deluxe silk organzas are woven in France and Italy. Organza is distinguished by its crisp hand, stiffness relative to weight, and slippery surface texture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bands (neckwear)</span> Type of formal neckwear

Bands are a form of formal neckwear, worn by some clergy and lawyers, and with some forms of academic dress. They take the form of two oblong pieces of cloth, usually though not invariably white, which are tied to the neck. When worn by clergy, they typically are attached to a clerical collar. The word bands is usually plural because they require two similar parts and did not come as one piece of cloth. Those worn by clergy are often called preaching bands or Geneva bands; those worn by lawyers are called barrister's bands or, more usually in Ireland and Canada, tabs.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, with color and patterns, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of coloring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cutwork</span> Needlework technique

Cutwork or cut work, also known as punto tagliato in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Plainweave</span> Category of woven fabrics

In embroidery, plainweave is a technical category of woven base fabrics that are suitable for working certain varieties of embroidery. Plainweave fabrics have a tight weave and individual threads are not readily visible. Surface embroidery may be performed on plainweave, such as crewel work, goldwork, stumpwork, cutwork, and candlewicking.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Finishing (textiles)</span> Manufacturing process

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.

Dotted Swiss, or Swiss Dot, is a sheer cotton fabric embellished with small dots. It is a fine, lightweight plain weave cotton fabric, ornamented with embroidery or flocking with dotted patterns.

Parchmentising or parchmentizing is a kind of aesthetic finish for textiles. It is a finishing treatment for cellulose fabric that stiffens the fabric and imparts a degree of translucency.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hand feel</span> Feel of the fabrics to the skin or hand

Hand feel is the property of fabrics related to the touch that expresses sensory comfort. It refers to the way fabrics feel against the skin or in the hand and conveys information about the cloth's softness and smoothness. Hand feel is an estimated and subjective property of different fabrics, but nowadays, hand feel could be measured and assessed statistically.

Momie cloth is a pebble-surfaced crêpe structure made of any natural or synthetic yarns. Momie crepe is a light weight material made of cotton.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gossamer fabric</span> A thin, sheer woven fabric similar to a gauze.

Gossamer fabric is a thin, sheer woven fabric. The structure of the fabric is similar to a gauze. It is usually made of silk, cotton, or wool. The fabric may be coated with rubber to make it waterproof.

Seerhand muslin (Seerhand) was a plain weave thin cotton fabric produced in the Indian subcontinent.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nun's veiling</span> A lightweight, thin, sheer, wool cloth

Nun's veiling was a lightweight cloth made of wool. It was a plain weave fabric used mainly for womens' veils and dresses. Nun's veiling got its name from the fact that it was used in veils by several religious orders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aesthetics (textile)</span> Concept of serviceability of textiles

Aesthetics in textiles is one of the basic concepts of serviceability of textiles. It is determined by the perception of touch and sight. Aesthetics imply the appearance and attraction of textile products; it includes the color and texture of the material. It is a statement about the end user (consumer) and the target market. When combined with fabric construction, the finish of the clothing material, garment fit, style, and fashion compatibility, colours create an aesthetic comfort. All of these elements work together to satisfy our visual perception. Aesthetics incorporates the role of evaluation also.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Humphries, Mary (1996). Fabric reference. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Prentice Hall. pp. 169, 5, 7. ISBN   978-0-13-349671-0.
  2. Elsasser, Virginia Hencken (2005). Textiles : concepts and principles. Internet Archive. New York, NY : Fairchild Publications. pp. 126, 225. ISBN   978-1-56367-300-9.
  3. Le Van, Marthe (2009). Stitched Jewels: Jewelry That's Sewn, Stuffed, Gathered & Frayed, p. 10. Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
  4. 1 2 3 Hollen, Norma R.; Saddler, Jane (1968). Textiles. Internet Archive. New York, Macmillan. pp. 139, 140, 189.
  5. Joseph, Marjory L. (1992). Joseph's introductory textile science. Internet Archive. Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers. p. 343. ISBN   978-0-03-050723-6.
  6. Dolan, Maryanne (1987). Vintage clothing, 1880-1960 : identification & value guide. Internet Archive. Florence, Ala. : Books Americana. p. 99. ISBN   978-0-89689-063-3.

Sources