Organdy

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Little girl in an organdy dress. Circa 1900. Valencian Museum of Ethnology collection. Xiquets Torrent - Organdi (26675711050).jpg
Little girl in an organdy dress. Circa 1900. Valencian Museum of Ethnology collection.

Organdy, also spelled Organdie, [1] is a kind of sheer fabric. It is a lightweight balanced plain weave cotton with features of sheerness and crispness. [2] [3]

Contents

Characteristics

Organdy is a stiffened material; sheerest among its peers, such as lawn cloth and Batiste. Often, these materials may come from the same grey goods, and are differentiated from each other in how they are finished. Organdy's sheerness and crispness are attributed to the acid finish (parchmentising) whereas the lawn is finished with starch or resin, and Batiste is a softer fabric type. [4] [1] Finer yarns with higher twist counts are used in superior quality organdy. [1]

Process

Organdy is an acid stiffened cloth. Its sheerness and crispness is the result of an acid finish, where the fabric is treated with sulfuric acid solution for a short period and then neutralized to remove excessive acid. The process is named "parchmentising". The parchmentisation is a treatment of acid on cellulosic textiles in the pursuit of obtaining the characteristic of the parchment.The finish offers a stiffened and translucent effect, not dissimilar from silk organza. [5] Figured Organdy is produced by applying an acid-resisting substance to a localised area; on the contrary, immersing it completely makes it stiffen all over. The objective of all-over parchmentizing is to create a transparent cloth. [4]

Use

Organdy was used for bridal dresses, ladies party dresses, and blouses. Organdy was a useful material as a Casement cloth, sheers, and lining etc. [1] In the late 19th through mid 20th century, young girls used to wear dresses made of organdy. [6] Because the material has a wrinkling tendency due to stiffened properties, it has fallen out of favor in the childrenswear market. [4] Today, organdy is most often seen in high fashion collections by designers such as Marc Jacobs.

See also

Related Research Articles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cambric</span> Soft, plain-woven cotton or linen fabric with a lustrous finish

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aesthetics (textile)</span> Concept of serviceability of textiles. It is determined by visual perception and the touch

Aesthetics in textiles is one of the basic concepts of serviceability of textiles. It is determined by the perception of touch and sight. Aesthetics imply the appearance and attraction of textile products; it includes the color and texture of the material. It is a statement about the end user (consumer) and the target market. When combined with fabric construction, the finish of the clothing material, garment fit, style, and fashion compatibility, colours create an aesthetic comfort. All of these elements work together to satisfy our visual perception. Aesthetics incorporates the role of evaluation also.

Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a grass cutting machine. A Shearing machine can cut the loop or the pile to a desired level. Shearing was most commonly used to make woolens and worsted materials. It was a part of dry finishing of woolen and worsted goods. Previously, shearing was also a component of gigging or napping; when partially produced goods were exposed to shear in order to improve the impact of gigging or napping, the process was referred to as "cropping."

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Humphries, Mary (1996). Fabric reference. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Prentice Hall. pp. 169, 5, 7. ISBN   978-0-13-349671-0.
  2. Elsasser, Virginia Hencken (2005). Textiles : concepts and principles. Internet Archive. New York, NY : Fairchild Publications. pp. 126, 225. ISBN   978-1-56367-300-9.
  3. Le Van, Marthe (2009). Stitched Jewels: Jewelry That's Sewn, Stuffed, Gathered & Frayed, p. 10. Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
  4. 1 2 3 Hollen, Norma R.; Saddler, Jane (1968). Textiles. Internet Archive. New York, Macmillan. pp. 139, 140, 189.
  5. Joseph, Marjory L. (1992). Joseph's introductory textile science. Internet Archive. Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers. p. 343. ISBN   978-0-03-050723-6.
  6. Dolan, Maryanne (1987). Vintage clothing, 1880-1960 : identification & value guide. Internet Archive. Florence, Ala. : Books Americana. p. 99. ISBN   978-0-89689-063-3.

Sources