Faille

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Silk plain weave (faille) robe, circa 1760-1765, with silk and metallic-thread supplementary weft patterning, and metallic lace trim. Woman's Robe a la Francaise and Petticoat LACMA M.56.6a-b (3 of 5).jpg
Silk plain weave (faille) robe, circa 1760–1765, with silk and metallic-thread supplementary weft patterning, and metallic lace trim.

Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.

Contents

Material

Faille was primarily made with silk, variations with cotton and wool were also there. A French silk variant was called ''Faille Francaise.'' [1] [2] The similar grosgrain has been described as a "firm, stiff, closely woven, corded fabric. The cords are heavier and closer than those in poplin, more round than those in faille." [3]

Variations

Faille fabric is characterized by its prominent rib and is manufactured by employing fine filament yarns in the warp and heavy spun yarns in the filling. Typically, it is a heavyweight fabric, although lighter weight variations of faille, known as tissue failles. [4]

Use

Faille was a fabric with lower luster, better drape and feel in comparison to counterparts like Grosgrain. It was used in ladies' dresses, suits and spring coats. [1] Tissue faille was once acknowledged as a trademark fabric and widely utilized in the creation of blouses. [5]

See also

Related Research Articles

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piqué (weaving)</span> Woven fabric with a raised rib

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sateen</span> Fabric

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broadcloth</span> Dense, woven cloth, historically of wool

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grosgrain</span> Plain-woven fabric with weft-wise ribbing, often woven in ribbon widths

Grosgrain is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that its weft is heavier than its warp, creating prominent transverse ribs. Grosgrain is a plain weave corded fabric, with heavier cords than poplin but lighter than faille, and is known for being a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric. Grosgrain has a dull appearance, with little luster in comparison to many fabric weaves, such as satin, often used for ribbons; however, it is comparatively very strong. Grosgrain fabric is most commonly available in black, but grosgrain ribbon comes in a large variety of colors and patterns. The ribbon is very similar to Petersham ribbon in its appearance, but it does not have the ability to follow the curves of a surface or edge the way that the latter does.

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Bourette is a silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface.

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Sussi or susi is a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth produced mainly in Sindh. Sussi is thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. Sindh region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century.

Alacha is a lightweight striped cloth made primarily of silk, sometimes cotton, or a mixture of both. The stripe pattern was evident on both sides of the fabric. A typical length of alacha is five yards. It was produced in various parts of India, for example Baikunthpur, Bihar. The cloth was popular in use for female garments such as dupattas (odhni), veils, and petticoats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocatelle</span> Silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs

Brocatelle is a silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs. The material is characterized by satin effects standing out in relief in the warp against a flat ground. It is produced with jacquard weave by using silk, rayon, cotton, or many synthetic yarns.

Cherryderry was a blended fabric with silk warp and cotton weft, typically with a stripe or check pattern.

Harateen or harrateen was a woolen material of the 18th and early 19th-century produced in England. It was a furnishing material with a pattern used in upholstery.

Limbric was a kind of cotton cloth with a fine warp and a soft, lustrous weft. Limbric has a peculiar construction with more pick density than the ends per inch. The fabric was used for dresses and casement curtains. Made in Limbrick, Lancashire, England originally. Standard dimensions of 72x100 were used, with a warp of 64s and a weft of 30s. The superior quality of cloth was produced by using combed yarns.

Tissue is a thin, transparent, and lightweight material. Tissue fabric is a suitable material for designing various types of garments, including saris. Tissue is characterized by the use of metallic yarns for decorative purposes. The tissue sari is composed of silk threads in the warp and zari in the weft.

References

  1. 1 2 Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013-09-17). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. p. 221. ISBN   978-1-60901-535-0.
  2. Co, Montgomery Ward &; Ward, Montgomery (1969-08-01). Montgomery Ward Catalogue of 1895. Courier Corporation. p. 11. ISBN   978-0-486-22377-3.
  3. Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. New York ; London: Norton. ISBN   978-0-393-01703-8.
  4. Tortora, Phyllis G.; Collier, Billie J. (1997). Understanding textiles. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Merrill. p. 274. ISBN   978-0-13-439225-7.
  5. Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. New York: Fairchild Publications. 1959. p. 559.