Valentyn Sypavin

Valentyn Sypavin

Valentyn Sypavin on Everest
Personal information
Born	Valentyn Viktorovych Sypavin (1983-08-03) 3 August 1983 (age 42) Kharkiv, Ukraine
Occupation	Professional climber
Website	Alpomania
Climbing career
Type of climber	Ice climbing Alpine climbing Competition climbing
Medal record Men's competition ice climbing Representing   Ukraine UIAA Ice Climbing 2013 World Cup Overall 2013 World Championship Lead

Valentyn Viktorovych Sypavin (born 3 August 1983, Kharkiv, Ukraine) is a Ukrainian mountaineer and ice climber, who has summited Mount Everest eight times. Following ten rope fixers, who summited on the evening of May 10, 2024, Sypavin became the first foreigner to summit, along with the legendary Sanu Sherpa, during the 2024 season on May 11, 2024 at 4:00 am. In 2013, Sypavin became the third in the overall UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and came second in the UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships.

Climbing career

Sypavin started ice climbing in 2008 when he began training and actively participating in competition ice climbing events. He also established several dry-tooling venues in Crimea. ^{[1] [2]}

Sypavin later started working as a mountain guide and founded his own adventure company called Alpomania. ^[3]

He is a Guinness World Record holder in the highest attitude kayaking, which he did at 6370 meters in Atacama, Chile, on 4 January 2020. ^[4]

In 2022, Sypavin led the first Ukrainian Antarctic expedition to the Vinson Massif. ^[5]

Major ascents

• Mount Everest — summited eight times: May 14, 2025 ^[6] , May 11, 2024 ^[7] , May 19, 2024, May 19, 2023, May 23, 2022, May 23, 2019, May 16, 2018, and May 15, 2017.

Four of these ascents were Everest–Lhotse double summits. ^[8] Valentyn Sypavin achieved his eighth successful ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m), setting a national record for the highest number of climbs by a Ukrainian mountaineer. ^[9] He became the fifth climber from Kharkiv and the nineteenth Ukrainian to reach the summit of Everest. ^[10]

• K2 (2021) ^[11] .
• Dallar, route 5B (Porokhni area)
• Peak Free Spain 5B (winter, Kizel area)
• Peak Free Spain 5B (as a pair, Kolomytsev area)
• Bashkara 5B (as a pair, Yu. Pryhoda route)
• Krumkol 6A (Timofeev route)
• Asan 6A (Horbenko route)
• Shkhara 5A (“Crab route”, in a pair)
• Mont Blanc 6A (Divine Providence route)
• Alpamayo, Peru
• Denali, Alaska — speed ascent with Iryna Halay ^[12] .
• Matterhorn
• Mont Blanc
• Mount Elbrus
• Mount Ararat
• Mount Damavand
• Ama Dablam
• Island Peak
• Lenin Peak
• Vinson Massif — leader of the First Ukrainian Antarctic expedition to the Vinson Massif ^[13]

Crimean ascents

• Shaan-Kaya: "Samurai" 6A, "Zenith", "Hyperborea" 6A
• Marcheka: "Center" 6A, "Rainy Season" 6A, "Machombo" 6A, "Player" 6A, "DLZ" 6A
• Triangle: "Friendship" 6A
• Castle: "Falcon" 6A, "Through the Cave" 6A, "Direct" 6A

Seven Summits program

• Mount Everest (8,848 m) — China (Asia)
• Aconcagua (6,962 m) — Argentina (South America)
• Denali (6,190 m) — United States (North America)
• Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) — Tanzania (Africa)
• Mount Elbrus (5,642 m) — Russia (Europe)
• Mount Vinson (4,892 m) — Antarctica
• Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m) — highest peak of Australia and Oceania
• Mount Kosciuszko (2,228 m) — highest point of the Australian continent

Volcanic Seven Summits program

• Ojos del Salado (6,893 m) — Chile (South America)
• Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) — Tanzania (Africa)
• Elbrus (5,642 m) — Russia (Europe)
• Pico de Orizaba (5,642 m) — Mexico (North America)
• Damavand (5,671 m) — Iran (Asia)
• Mount Giluwe (4,367 m) — Papua New Guinea — ascent on 29–30 August 2025 ^[14]

Rankings

In 2008, he became interested in ice climbing. In 2011, he ranked 4th in the world ice climbing ranking. He is a bronze medalist of the European Championship ^[15] , vice world champion, and prize-winner of several World Cup stages ^[16] . He was a bronze medalist in the overall World Cup standings and was in the Top 10 of the world ice climbing ranking for seven consecutive years ^[17] .

Results in international competitions:

• 2011 — 3rd place — UIAA Ice Climbing World Championship, Kirov, Russia. ^[18]
• 2012 — 3rd place — European Championship, Saas-Fee, Switzerland. ^[19]
• 2013:
  • 2nd place — World Championship, Cheongsong, South Korea. ^[20]
  • 3rd place — Overall World Cup standings. ^[21]
  • 3rd place (team) — World Championship (Speed), Kirov, Russia.
• 2014:
  • 2nd place (team) — European Championship (Speed), Ufa, Russia.
  • 3rd place (team) — European Championship (Lead), Ufa, Russia.
  • 4th place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea.
  • 6th place — World Cup stage, Busteni, Romania. ^[22]
• 2015:
  • 2nd place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea.
  • 4th place — World Championship, Rabenstein, Italy (team, Lead). ^[23]
  • 3rd place — World Championship, Kirov, Russia (team, Speed). ^[24]
• 2017:
  • 4th place — World Cup stage, Durango, USA. ^[25]
  • 5th place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea. ^[26]
• 2019:
  • 3rd place — Final World Cup stage, Denver, USA. ^[27]

Ukrainian Ice Climbing Champion: Lead discipline: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016.

He also coached the 2019 Junior World Ice Climbing Champion ^[28] — Viktoriia Holub. ^[29]

Ice Climbing World Championships

	2013	2015	2017
Lead	2	4	6

Ice Climbing World Cup

	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017
Overall	4	3	6	4	9	10-11
	4,,15,,9	,,6,6,4	4,6,-,7,6	6-8,2,8,4,-,5	14,4,-,9	4,17,5,28,17

Personal life

Sypavin has worked as a fire service trainer, ^[30] and also used to work as a university teacher.

Founder of the company Alpomania ^[31] , which specializes in organizing expeditions and ascents to mountain peaks around the world.

Social media

Platform	Link
Facebook	valentyn.sypavin
Instagram	valiksypavin
YouTube	alpomania-8801
Telegram	@alpomania_team

Notable ascents

• Mount Everest five times summiteer: 16.05.2017, ^[32] 15.05.2018, ^[33] 23.05.2019, ^{[34] [35]} 23.05.2021, ^[36] 19.05.2023 ^{[37] [38]}
• K2 - Summer 2021 ^[39]
• Lhotse - 2021, 2023.
• Denali - 5-day speed ascent with Irina Halay in 2017 ^[40]
• Aconcagua
• Kilimanjaro
• Mount Vinson
• Ojos del Salado, the world's highest volcano
• Pico de Orizaba
• Demavend

References

1. Valentyn Sypavin - Ukrainian
2. Есть первые драйтулинговые маршруты на Украине
3. Alpomania company
4. "Highest altitude kayaking". Guinness World Records . 4 January 2020. Retrieved 10 November 2023. The highest altitude kayaking is 6,370 m (20,898.91 ft) and was achieved by Valentyn Sypavin (Ukraine) in Atacama, Chile, on 4 January 2020
5. ICTV news TSN News
6. ""Безпрецедентне досягнення": українець у восьмий раз підкорив Еверест і встановив національний рекорд" (in Ukrainian). Focus.ua. 16 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
7. "Ukrainian Valentyn becomes season's first non-Sherpa climber to scale Everest from Nepal side". Everest Chronicle. 11 May 2024. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
8. "Наймасовіше сходження: шестеро українців підкорили Еверест за один день" (in Ukrainian). EMPR.media. 15 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
9. ""Безпрецедентне досягнення": українець у восьмий раз підкорив Еверест і встановив національний рекорд" (in Ukrainian). Focus.ua. 16 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
10. "Пятый харьковчанин покорил Эверест". city.kharkov.ua (in Russian). 16 May 2017. Archived from the original on 24 February 2022. Retrieved 4 August 2020.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
11. "ХАРЬКОВЧАНИН ВАЛЕНТИН СИПАВИН ВЗОШЕЛ НА ВТОРУЮ ПО ВЕЛИЧИНЕ ГОРУ МИРА". atn.ua (in Russian). 27 July 2021. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
12. "Вторая украинская команда альпинистов поднялась на высочайшую вершину Северной Америки — Денали". 4sport.ua (in Russian). Archived from the original on 20 October 2020. Retrieved 19 October 2020.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
13. "Перша українська антарктична експедиція на масив Вінсон" (in Ukrainian). Вікіпедія. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
14. "Валентин Сипавін – Instagram Reel" (in Ukrainian). Instagram. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
15. "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2012 Overall Ranking" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2013-05-22. Retrieved 2020-08-04.
16. "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 Durango, USA" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2018-02-02. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-08-11. Retrieved 2020-08-04.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |dead-url= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
17. "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 Overall Ranking" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2017-10-10. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-08-12. Retrieved 2020-08-04.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |dead-url= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
18. "2011 Overall World Cup Men Lead" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-22.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
19. "2012 Overall World Cup Men Lead" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-21.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
20. "Kharkiv climber Sipavin took second place at the World Cup stage in Korea". Redpost.com.ua (in Ukrainian). 2015. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
21. "2013 Overall Men Lead" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-20.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
22. "Valentyn Sipavin reached the Ice Climbing World Cup final in Romania". Alp.org.ua (in Ukrainian). 2014. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
23. "2015 World Championship Team Ranking" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-21.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
24. "Kirov 2015 Team Ranking" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-20.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
25. "Durango Men Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-08-11.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
26. "Cheongsong 2017 Men Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-20.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
27. "Denver Men Lead 2019" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-22.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadlink= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
28. "U19 Oulu Women Lead" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2020-10-21.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |deadurl= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
29. "Viktoria Golub — Junior World Champion in Ice Climbing!". alpclub.com.ua (in Russian). Archived from the original on 2020-10-23.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |dead-url= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
30. Kennedy, Tristian (10 May 2022). "Beyond the Front Lines, Ukrainian Mountaineer aids War Effort". UKClimbing. Retrieved 12 November 2023.
31. "Валентин Сипавин". AlpoMania.com (in Russian). Archived from the original on 23 October 2020. Retrieved 19 October 2020.{{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |dead-url= ignored (|url-status= suggested) (help)
32. Валентин Сипавин на ЭВЕРЕСТЕ !!!
33. Харьковчанин Валентин Сипавин второй раз поднялся на вершину Эвереста!
34. Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Recap – 3 Deaths
35. Три украинских альпиниста взошли на вершину Эвереста!
36. Украинские альпинисты поднялись на Эверест: харьковчанин Валентин Сипавин установил национальный рекорд
37. Everest 2023 Summit List
38. MOUNT EVEREST. A BLUE AND YELLOW FLAG. UNITED24
39. “I Found One of the Bodies on K2” — An Exclusive Report
40. Irina Halay on the “Ukrainian Express” to the top of America