Victorian-era cosmetics

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A display of Victorian Era Cosmetics Victorian Cosmetics.jpg
A display of Victorian Era Cosmetics

Victorian-era cosmetics refers to cosmetic products used during the Victorian age. Victorian cosmetics were often toxic or otherwise damaging. Commonly used products included ingredients such as lead, mercury, arsenic, and ammonia.

Contents

Many cosmetic products were aimed at achieving as pale a complexion as possible, as this would indicate a woman did not have to work outside, and was thus of high status. The two main styles were "natural", which conveyed that a woman was of good morals, and "painted", which was seen as somewhat provocative. [1]

Skin

The use of excessive makeup in the Victorian age was viewed as promiscuous and would only be seen on performers or prostitutes. [2] A pure, natural face, free from blemishes, freckles, or marks was considered beautiful. However, that didn't mean women did not secretly concoct their own remedies and cosmetics to enhance features and hide imperfections. Societal women did not want it known that they wore cosmetics so their beauty rituals were not publicized or discussed. One of the most important features to a woman in the Victorian Era was to have the most translucent, pale complexion possible. [3] A fair and healthy complexion distinguished a woman's social status. A lady of a higher social standing would use accessories like gloves and umbrellas to help protect her from the environment. Cold cream - consisting of water, oil, emulsifier, and thickening agent - became a staple in the beauty rituals of Victorian women. It was believed that cold cream is beneficial for cleansing the skin and providing a moisturizing effect, and so the cream was essential to Victorian women who wanted to maintain very soft, delicate skin. It was one of the only products in the Victorian era that was fairly safe to use and not looked down upon. The invention of cold cream goes back to antiquity.[ citation needed ]

Women who employed the "painted" look used white paints and enamels on their faces and arms. This would mean avoiding exaggerated facial expressions, because the substances would crack. These substances were also corrosive to the skin because they contained lead, mercury, and arsenic so women would have to keep applying them to cover the damage. [1]

Cheeks and lips

Rouge was used to help add color to cheeks and lips. While women were discouraged from wearing makeup, women found ways to improve their complexion with rouge. Natural ingredients, such as strawberries or herbs, were seen as providing a suitable colour, and thus preferred. Lip rouge was made from multiple ingredients such as animal fat, beet root, herbs, beetles and almonds, to produce a pink or red hue. [4]

Eyes

Watery eyes were considered attractive because (paired with pale skin) they were associated with tuberculosis. To achieve this, women put drops of perfume, citrus, or belladonna in their eyes - the latter an ingredient which would cause blindness if used for long enough. Mercury was used to make eyebrows and eyelashes less sparse. [1]

Hair

Edwards' "Harlene" for the hair advertisement Edwards' "Harlene" for the hair Wellcome L0031645.jpg
Edwards' "Harlene" for the hair advertisement

High society Victorian women went for natural beauty in regards to cosmetics to appear pure and youthful. However, there was a need for hair treatments and products that sustained intricate hairstyles. For many cultures, women's hair is an expression of their femininity, and Victorian women were of no exception. Many nineteenth-century photographs show women with extremely long hair. The length of the hair, in particular, was a display of a woman's health and was well taken care of. Both men and women used products to promote hair growth. Since the use of cosmetics on societal women was limited, hair was kept well groomed. Victorian women would braid their hair, use hair wigs, and apply heat to make tight curls. The Victorian era was a period in which it was more possible for women to focus on personal hygiene than it was in previous generations. [5]

Perfume

Natural scents were considered to be appropriate, while more overwhelming smells were associated with promiscuity. Queen Victoria considered floral scents to be the most appropriate for women to wear. Perfumes often used flowers such as lavender, violet, and rose - with violet being among the most popular - as well as citrus scents, and were sometimes infused with herbs such as rosemary to enhance the scent. [6] Perfume was typically used on clothing, hair and handkerchiefs as opposed to on the skin. [7]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetics</span> Substances applied to the body to change appearance or fragrance

Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect the body or skin. Cosmetics designed to enhance or alter one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features, add color to a person's face, or change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature or object. Due to the harsh ingredients in makeup products, individuals with acne-prone skin are more likely to suffer from breakouts. Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mascara</span> Cosmetic for eyelashes

Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the upper and lower eyelashes. It is used to darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, powder, or cream—the modern mascara product has various formulas; however, most contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives. The most common form of mascara is a liquid in a tube with an application brush.

Anal bleaching is the process of lightening the color of the skin around the anus. It is done for cosmetic purposes, to make the color of the anus more uniform with the surrounding area. Some treatments are applied in an office or salon by a cosmetic technician and others are sold as cream that can be applied at home.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skin whitening</span> Practice of using chemical substances to lighten the skin

Skin whitening, also known as skin lightening and skin bleaching, is the practice of using chemical substances in an attempt to lighten the skin or provide an even skin color by reducing the melanin concentration in the skin. Several chemicals have been shown to be effective in skin whitening, while some have proven to be toxic or have questionable safety profiles. This includes mercury compounds which may cause neurological problems and kidney problems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rouge (cosmetics)</span> Cosmetic for reddening the lips and cheeks

Rouge, also called blush or blusher, is a cosmetic for coloring the cheeks in a variety of shades, or the lips red. It is applied as a powder, cream or liquid.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eye shadow</span> Make-up applied to the eyelids

Eye shadow is a cosmetic applied primarily to the eyelids to attract attention to the wearer's eyes, making them stand out or look more attractive. Eye shadow can also be applied under the eyes, on the cheeks, or to brow bones.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of cosmetics</span> History of cosmetics in cultures

The history of cosmetics spans at least 7,000 years and is present in almost every society on earth. Cosmetic body art is argued to have been the earliest form of a ritual in human culture. The evidence for this comes in the form of utilised red mineral pigments including crayons associated with the emergence of Homo sapiens in Africa. Cosmetics are mentioned in the Old Testament—2 Kings 9:30 where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC—and the book of Esther describes various beauty treatments as well.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of perfume</span>

The word perfume is used today to describe scented mixtures and is derived from the Latin word, "per fumus," meaning through smoke. The word perfumery refers to the art of making perfumes. Perfume was refined by the Romans, the Persians and the Arabs. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances were incense based. The basic ingredients and methods of making perfumes are described by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ingredients of cosmetics</span> Ingredients used in makeup

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pears (soap)</span> Brand of soap

Pears Glycerin soap is a British brand of soap first produced and sold in 1807 by Andrew Pears, at a factory just off Oxford Street in London. It was the world's first mass-market translucent soap. Under the stewardship of advertising pioneer Thomas J. Barratt, A. & F. Pears initiated a number of innovations in sales and marketing. English actress and socialite Lillie Langtry was recruited to become the poster-girl for Pears in 1882, and in doing so she became the first celebrity to endorse a commercial product.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Foundation (cosmetics)</span> Skin coloured cosmetic applied to the face

Foundation is a liquid, cream, or powder makeup applied to the face and neck to create an even, uniform color to the complexion, cover flaws and, sometimes, to change the natural skin tone. Some foundations also function as a moisturizer, sunscreen, astringent or base layer for more complex cosmetics. Foundation applied to the body is generally referred to as "body painting" or "body makeup".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Face powder</span> Cosmetic product applied to the face

Face powder is a cosmetic product applied to the face to serve different functions, typically to beautify the face. Originating from ancient Egypt, face powder has had different social uses across cultures and in modern times, it is typically used to set makeup, brighten the skin and contour the face. Face powders generally come in two main types. One of which is loose powder, which is used to assist with oily skin in absorbing excess moisture and mattifying the face to reduce shininess. The other is pressed powder which conceals blemishes and maximises coverage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Venetian ceruse</span> Cosmetic product

Venetian ceruse, also known as blanc de ceruse de Venise and Spirits of Saturn, was a 16th-century cosmetic used as a skin whitener. It was in great demand and considered the best available at the time, supposedly containing the best quality white lead sourced from Venice, the global merchant capital at the time. It is similar to the regular ceruse, although it was marketed as better, more exclusive and more expensive than the regular ceruse variant. The regular ceruse white pigment is a basic lead carbonate of chemical formula 2 PbCO
3
·Pb(OH)
2
while the mineral cerussite is a simple carbonate of lead.

Western cosmetics in the 1970s reflected the multiple roles ascribed to the modern woman. For the first time since 1900, make-up was chosen situationally, rather than in response to monolithic trends. The era's two primary visions were the feminist-influenced daytime "natural look" and the sexualized evening aesthetic presented by European designers and fashion photographers. In the periphery, punk and glam were also influential. The struggling cosmetics industry attempted to make a comeback, using new marketing and manufacturing practices.

Cosmetics, first used in ancient Rome for ritual purposes, were part of daily life. Some fashionable cosmetics, such as those imported from Germany, Gaul and China, were so expensive that the Lex Oppia tried to limit their use in 189 BCE. These "designer brands" spawned cheap knock-offs that were sold to poorer women. Working-class women could afford the cheaper varieties, but may not have had the time to apply the makeup as the use of makeup was a time-consuming affair because cosmetics needed to be reapplied several times a day due to weather conditions and poor composition.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetic industry</span> Industry that manufactures and distributes cosmetic products

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetics in Korea</span>

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">K-Beauty</span> Umbrella term for skin-care products that derive from South Korea

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpha-isomethyl ionone</span> Chemical compound

Alpha-isomethyl ionone is a synthetically made and naturally occurring organic compound found in Brewer's yeasts or the species known as Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The compound is an isomer of methyl ionone. Alpha-isomethyl ionone can be colorless or pale-straw coloured liquid. Its primary scent is flowery and secondary scent is violet. It may also have a woody or orris-like scent. and is often used in flavouring and cosmetic industries for example, aftershave lotions, bath products, hair care products, moisturizers, perfumes, shampoos and skin care products. It is also an ingredient used in Chanel No. 5, and other branded products such as Fidji by Guy Laroche. Perfume fragrances that alpha-isomethyl ionone is used in are for example, amber, chypre, violet, mimosa, reseda, iris, orris, cyclamen, chypre, berries, woody notes, ylang-ylang, leather, orange, nut, pistachio, muscatel, and tobacco.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Zarrelli, Natalie. "The Poisonous Beauty Advice Columns of Victorian England," Atlas Obscura, December 15, 2015.
  2. Marsh, Medeleine. Compacts and Cosmetics: Beauty from Victorian Times to the Present Day. Havertown: Remember When, 2009. Internet resource.
  3. Beerbohm, Max. A Defence of Cosmetics. New York: Dodd, Mead and Co, 1922. Print.
  4. "Victorian Makeup Guide & Beauty History". vintagedancer.com. Retrieved 2020-03-30.
  5. Goodman, Ruth. How to Be a Victorian: A Dawn-to-Dusk Guide to Victorian Life. , 2014. Print.
  6. "The Victorians: from violet posies to va-va-voom". The Perfume Society. Retrieved 2020-03-30.
  7. Matthews, Mimi Verfasser. (2018). A Victorian lady's guide to fashion and beauty. ISBN   978-1-5267-0504-4. OCLC   1099905836.{{cite book}}: |last= has generic name (help)