Women's Wear Daily

Last updated
Women's Wear Daily
Women's Wear Daily logo.svg
WWD cover 2016.png
2016 cover
TypeOnline publication
FormatMagazine
Owner(s) Penske Media Corporation
FoundedJuly 13, 1910
ISSN 0043-7581
Website wwd.com

Women's Wear Daily (also known as WWD) is a fashion-industry trade journal often referred to as the "Bible of fashion". [1] [2] It provides information and intelligence on changing trends and breaking news in the men and women's fashion, beauty and retail industries. Its readership is made up largely of retailers, designers, manufacturers, marketers, financiers, media executives, advertising agencies, socialites and trend makers. [3]

Contents

WWD is the flagship publication of Fairchild Media, which is owned by Penske Media Corporation. [4] In April 2015, the paper switched from a daily print format to a weekly print format, accompanied by a daily digital edition. [5] In 2017, it announced it would ramp up its focus on digital, reducing its regular print schedule further and opt instead to publish print issues only during fashion weeks and certain other events. [6]

History

Founding and John Fairchild

WWD was founded by Edmund Fairchild on July 13, 1910, as an outgrowth of the menswear journal Daily News Record . [7] The publication quickly acquired a firm standing in the New York clothing industry, due to the influence of its first advertisers. Edith Rosenbaum Russell served as Women's Wear Daily's first Paris correspondent. [8] Reporters for the publication were sometimes assigned to the last row of couture shows, but the publication gained popularity by the last 1950s. [2]

John B. Fairchild, who became the European bureau chief of Fairchild Publications in 1955 and the publisher of WWD in 1960, improved WWD's standing by focusing on the human side of fashion. He turned his newspaper's attention to the social scene of fashion designers and their clients, and helped manufacture a "cult of celebrity" around designers. [2] Fairchild also played hardball to help his circulation. After two couturiers forbade press coverage until one month after buyers had seen their clothes, Fairchild published photos and sketches anyway. He even sent reporters to fashion houses disguised as messengers, or had them observe designers' new styles from windows of buildings opposite fashion houses. "I have learned in fashion to be a little savage," he wrote in his memoir. [9] John Fairchild was publisher of the magazine from 1960 to 1996. [2]

Under Fairchild, the company's feuds were also legendary. [2] [4] When a designer's statements or work offended Fairchild, he would retaliate, sometimes banning any reference to them in his newspaper for years at a stretch. [4] The newspaper famously sparred with Hubert de Givenchy, [4] [10] Cristóbal Balenciaga, [10] John Weitz, [4] [10] Azzedine Alaia, [10] Perry Ellis, [10] Yves Saint Laurent, [2] Giorgio Armani, [2] [4] [10] Bill Blass, [4] [10] Geoffrey Beene (four times- the first over Lynda Bird Johnson's White House wedding dress design which Beene promised to keep secret until the wedding day, [11] and later over the size of an ad in another of Fairchild's publications; Beene's allowing a rival publication to photograph his home; and a WWD reporter Beene did not like), [2] [10] James Galanos, [10] Mollie Parnis, [10] Oscar de la Renta, [10] and Norman Norell (who was demoted from "Fashion Great" to "Old Master" in the journal's pages), [2] among others. In response, some designers forbade their representatives from speaking to WWD reporters or disinvited WWD reporters from their fashion shows. [10] In general, though, those excluded "kept their mouths shut and [took] it on the chin." [12] When designer Pauline Trigère, who had been excluded from the paper for three years, took out a full-page advertisement protesting the ban in the fashion section of a 1988 New York Times Magazine , it was believed to be the first widely distributed counterattack on Fairchild's policy. [4]

1999 to 2013: Condé Nast Publications

In 1999, Fairchild Publications was sold by the Walt Disney Company to Advance Publications, the parent company of Condé Nast Publications. [13] As a result, Fairchild Publications became a unit of Condé Nast, [14] though WWD was technically operated separately from Condé Nast's consumer publications such as Vogue and Glamour . [15]

In November 2010, WWD celebrated its 100th anniversary at the Cipriani in New York, with some of the fashion industry's leading experts including designers Alber Elbaz, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors. [16]

2014 to present: Penske Media Corporation

On August 19, 2014, Conde Nast sold Women's Wear Daily to Penske Media Corporation (PMC). [17] The purchase by PMC included WWD's sister publications Footwear News , Menswear, M Magazine, and Beauty Inc as well as Fairchild's events business for a sale price close to $100 million. [18]

On April 12, 2015, WWD announced on their website that they would launch a weekly print format from April 23 on. A daily digital edition of WWD is also available to subscribers. [19] [20]

On July 20, 2015, Penske Media Corporation (PMC) and Tribune Publishing Company announced that WWD would appear on LATimes.com and would also be distributed to select Los Angeles Times, San Diego Union-Tribune, Chicago Tribune and Sun-Sentinel subscribers 12 times per year. [21]

Related Research Articles

<i>Jane</i> (magazine)

Jane was an American magazine created to appeal to the women who grew up reading Sassy magazine; Jane Pratt was the founding editor of each. Its original target audience was aged 18–34, and was designed to appeal to women who did not like the typical women's magazine format. Pratt originally intended the magazine to be named Betty, but she was voted down by everyone else involved in the making of the magazine.

Condé Nast is a global mass media company founded in 1909 by Condé Montrose Nast, and owned by Advance Publications. Its headquarters are located at One World Trade Center in New York City and The Adelphi building in London.

<i>Teen Vogue</i> American fashion and culture magazine targeted at teenage girls

Teen Vogue is an American online publication, formerly in print, launched in January 2003, as a sister publication to Vogue, targeted at teenage girls. Like Vogue, it included stories about fashion and celebrities. Since 2015, following a steep decline in sales, the magazine cut back on its print distribution in favor of online content, which has grown significantly. The magazine had also expanded its focus from fashion and beauty to include politics and current affairs. In November 2017, it was announced Teen Vogue would cease in print and continue online-only as part of a new round of cost cuts. The final print issue featured Hillary Clinton on the cover and was on newsstands on December 5, 2017.

Patrick McCarthy (publisher)

Patrick McCarthy was chairman and editorial director of W magazine and Women's Wear Daily (WWD).

Peter W. Kaplan

Peter Wennik Kaplan was an American editor known for modernizing New Journalism for the digital age. He was the editor-in-chief of the New York Observer, a weekly newspaper, for 15 years. The Kingdom of New York, an anthology of articles from the famously pink paper, was co-edited by Kaplan.

Fairchild Fashion Media

Fairchild Media is a publisher of fashion trade magazines, websites, and conferences for the fashion, retail and beauty industries. Fairchild Media brands include Women’s Wear Daily, Footwear News (FN), Beauty Inc, M and Fairchild Summits.

Pauline Trigère

Pauline Trigère was a Franco-American couturière. Her award-winning styles reached their height of popularity in the United States during the 1950s and 1960s. Recognized early in her career as an innovator of cut and construction, Trigère brought to women of all ages all over the world such novelties as the jumpsuit, the sleeveless coat, the reversible cape and the embroidered sheer bodice. She reinvented ready-to-wear fashion, matching form to function with bold prints and architectural silhouettes to create a distinctly modern female aesthetic. Trigère's loyal clients included Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Kay Wiebrecht, and Evelyn Lauder.

Mitchell B. Fox is an American businessman. He was the Group President and Publishing Director of Condé Nast Publications, the President and CEO of The Golf Digest Companies, and Publisher of Vanity Fair and Details magazines. Fox was the Vice President and Publisher of Vanity Fair during its rise in the 1990s. As Group President, his responsibilities included overseeing Condé Nast's golf properties, its Fairchild fashion group including W magazine and Women's Wear Daily, its Bridal group, and other magazines, including Self, Allure, Bon Appetit, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Stefano Tonchi is an Italian journalist, curator, consultant, and the global chief creative officer of L’Officiel.

Style.com was a luxury e-commerce website, launched by international media company Condé Nast in September 2016. In June 2017 Style.com was closed and absorbed by online retailer Farfetch.com

Kenneth Paul Block was an American fashion illustrator. For nearly forty years, he was an in-house artist for Fairchild Publications, owner of Women's Wear Daily, the garment industry trade paper, and its offshoot, W. As chief features artist, he helped transform the once-dowdy WWD into the bible of the jet set during the 1960s and 1970s. Babe Paley, Gloria Vanderbilt, Jacqueline de Ribes, Amanda Burden, The Duchess of Windsor, and Gloria Guinness were among the society women who posed for him.

Daily News Record was an American fashion trade journal published by Fairchild Publications, Inc.. DNR started in 1890 when Edmund Fairchild used the wealth he had accumulated selling soap to purchase the Chicago Herald Gazette, a newspaper which focused on the men’s clothing business. Along with his brother Luis, Fairchild published a mimeographed paper which they called the Daily Trade Record and distributed at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair.

<i>Vogue Italia</i> Italian edition of Vogue magazine

Vogue Italia is the Italian edition of Vogue magazine. Owned by Condé Nast International, it has been called the top fashion magazine in the world.

Giles Deacon British fashion designer

Giles Deacon is an English fashion designer, Creative Director and Founder of Giles Deacon group, Couture Fashion House. Deacon joined the Paris Couture schedule in 2016. Deacon has been known to challenge the traditional ideas of womenswear and often uses wild prints and pop culture references in his designs. Deacon was employed by the fashion houses Bottega Veneta and Gucci, before founding his own label, GILES, in 2003. He launched his first collection for GILES at the 2004 London Fashion Week and was named "Best New Designer" at the British Fashion Awards.

Penske Media Corporation (PMC) is an American digital media, publishing, and information services company based in Los Angeles and New York City. It publishes more than 20 digital and print brands, including Variety, Rolling Stone, WWD, Deadline Hollywood, Bollywood Life, Boy Genius Report, and others. PMC's Chairman and CEO since founding is Jay Penske.

John Burr Fairchild was the publisher and editor in chief of Women's Wear Daily from 1960 to 1996 and the founding editor of W magazine in 1972.

Richard D. Beckman is a British media and entertainment sales executive.

<i>Them</i> (website) American online LGBT magazine

Them is an American online LGBT magazine launched in October 2017 by Phillip Picardi and owned by Condé Nast. Its coverage includes LGBT culture, fashion, and politics.

<i>Footwear News</i> Weekly print publication on footwear

Footwear News is a weekly print publication on the topic of women's, men's, and children's footwear. Founded in 1945, its coverage is for the fashion design and fashion retail industries. It was originally published by Fairchild Media. The publication also operates FootwearNews.com which runs more consumer content than the print publication.

References

  1. Miller, Lia. Women's wear dayA "Women's Wear Daily Setting Its Sights on the Luxury Market." Archived 2013-12-16 at the Wayback Machine The New York Times . (March 14, 2005).
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Horyn, Cathy. "Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge". The New York Times . (August 20, 1999).
  3. WWD.com Archived 2011-06-06 at the Wayback Machine
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Rothenberg, Randall. "From Pauline Trigere, a Dressing Down". The New York Times . (August 17, 1988).
  5. Edward Nardoza, Letter From the Editor: Turning the Page. Today we say goodbye to an old friend, a morning habit for generations. This is the final newsprint edition of WWD. Archived 2016-09-16 at the Wayback Machine wwd.com April 24, 2015
  6. Main, Sami (23 February 2017). "Women's Wear Daily Scales Back Print Editions and Cuts Staff". AdWeek. Retrieved 16 June 2020.
  7. Trager, James. The New York Chronology: A Compendium of Events, People, and Anecdotes from the Dutch to the Present. HarperCollins (2003), p325 Archived 2014-07-08 at the Wayback Machine . ISBN   0-06-074062-0.
  8. Women's Wear Daily, August 22, 1911.
  9. Fairchild, John. The Fashionable Savages. Doubleday (1965). (Cited in Gross, Michael. "Women's Wear Daily and Feuds in Fashion". The New York Times . (May 8, 1987).)
  10. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Gross, Michael. "Women's Wear Daily and Feuds in Fashion". The New York Times . (May 8, 1987).
  11. Geoffrey Beene Biography (Fashion Designer) — Infoplease.com Archived 2013-07-31 at the Wayback Machine
  12. Former WWD publisher James Brady. Quoted in Rothenberg, Randall. "From Pauline Trigere, a Dressing Down". The New York Times . (August 17, 1988).
  13. Barringer, Felicity. "Fashion Magazine Industry Consolidates with a Big Deal". The New York Times . (August 25, 1999).
  14. Hoover's In-Depth Company Records. "Fairchild Publications, Inc." March 21, 2007.
  15. MacIntosh, Jeane. "Will WWD Play It Straight for SI?". New York Post . (Feb. 7, 2000).
  16. WWD celebrate 100 years Archived 2010-11-06 at the Wayback Machine www.rescu.com.au
  17. "Condé Nast sells Women's Wear Daily, others to Penske Media". USA Today. Archived from the original on August 20, 2014. Retrieved August 19, 2014.
  18. Fritz, Ben; Trachtenberg, Jeffrey A. "Penske Media to Buy Fairchild From Condé Nast for Nearly $100 Million". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660. Archived from the original on 2015-12-08. Retrieved 2015-12-01.
  19. Staff, WWD (2015-03-12). "From the Editors: WWD Launching Weekly Format". WWD. Archived from the original on 2017-07-15. Retrieved 2017-06-28.
  20. "Women's Wear Daily to Become a Weekly". The Cut. Archived from the original on 2018-01-29. Retrieved 2017-06-28.
  21. Chang, Andrea (2015-07-20). "Women's Wear Daily content to appear in L.A. Times, other Tribune papers". Los Angeles Times. ISSN   0458-3035. Archived from the original on 2017-10-19. Retrieved 2017-06-28.

Further reading