Wrinkle-resistant fabric

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Wrinkle-resistant or permanent press or durable press is a finishing method for textiles that avoids creases and wrinkles and provides a better appearance for the articles. Most cellulosic fabrics and blends of cellulosic-rich fabrics tend to crease or wrinkle. A durable press finish makes them dimensionally stable and crease-free. The finishing includes chemical finishing as well as mechanical finishing. [1] Wrinkle-resistant finishes were developed in the early 20th century as a way to deal with fabrics derived from cotton, rayon, and linen, which were found to wrinkle easily and retain the wrinkles. These treatments have a lasting effect on the fabric. [2] Synthetics like polyester, nylon, acrylic, and olefin have a natural resistance to wrinkles [3] and a greater stability since they do not absorb water as efficiently.

Contents

These fabrics are textiles that have been treated to resist external stress and hold their shape. Clothing made from this fabric does not need to be ironed and may be sold as non-iron, no-iron, wash-and-wear, durable press, and easy care. While fabric cleaning and maintenance may be simplified, some wearers experience decreased comfort. [4] [5] [6] [7]

History

Advances in producing permanent press fabrics involved a series of agents that crosslink the cellulose-based fibers that comprise most clothing. Wrinkle resistant treatments have been used since 1929, when cotton fabrics were treated with a solution of urea and formaldehyde. The chemical treatment stiffened the fabric, thus making it wrinkle-resistant. [3]

Starting in the 1940s, a series of urea-formaldehyde derivatives were introduced. Technical issues overcome included yellowing, odor, and the tendency of some agents to accelerate the degradation of fabrics by bleaches. [8] [9] [ self-published source? ]

By the 1950s, fabrics made from synthetics and treated cotton were described as "wash-and-wear" to point out that there was no need to iron them. [3] The claim was thought somewhat dubious in the sense that they could require some touch-up ironing. [3] In 1953, Brooks Brothers manufactured wash-and-wear shirts using a blend of Dacron, polyester, and a wrinkle-free cotton that was invented by Ruth R. Benerito, which they called "Brooksweave".[ citation needed ]

In the 1960s and 1970s, the developments in the chemistry of textile-treatments led to the discovery of DMDHEU, a chemical agent that made possible a low-cost but superior-quality production [10] of permanent-pressed fabrics, which are now known as durable-pressed finishes. [3] However, these processes weakened clothes; as a result, they wore out faster. [11]

Work shirt labeled as Permanent Press Permpress.jpg
Work shirt labeled as Permanent Press

The technology advanced especially rapidly in the early 1990s. [2] [12]

Wrinkle-resistant fabrics, alongside other factors, have reportedly caused a decline in ironing in the United States. [13]

Process

Cross-linking is the chemical process to produce textiles with wrinkle resistance. [14] Wrinkle resistance is achieved by the crosslinking of cellulose chains to stop the molecules from moving when in contact with water or other environmental stress. [15] Cotton cellulose polymer comprises three different regions: the crystalline region, the amorphous region, and an intermediate region between them. Although in the crystalline region the cellulose chains are closely arranged, limiting their mobility, chains in the amorphous and intermediate regions are bonded together by weaker bonds making them more susceptible to breaking. [10] There are two types of crosslinkers, which are the chemicals that bond together cellulose chains, the first ones only bond cellulose chains, while the second self-polymerize resins as well. [15]

Compounds baring N-methylol groups, such as dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU) and the related Dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU), are commonly used for the treatments because of their relatively low costs; however, they produce free formaldehyde, [10] which has been identified as a potential human carcinogen, and it can also cause harmful dermatological effects. [16] The use of titanium dioxide (TiO2) (as a catalyst/ co-catalyst for these reactions) has become an alternative way to minimize the formation of free formaldehyde and fabric strength loss. [10]

DMDHEU is the most commonly used durable-press finish. In this process, the chemical is first applied to the fabric. Then the fabric is heated to allow the chemicals to react with the cellulose molecules. In the reaction, the molecules of the fabric are bonded together to keep them from moving and causing wrinkles. [11] [3] For this reason, durable-press treated garments behave as synthetics. [11] However, almost all the wrinkle resistant garments are made with poly/cotton blends fabrics. [17]

There are problems with the post-curing process, the final step of the treatment, because if the process is not done perfectly the garment gets damaged and can even turn yellow. [17] Companies have overcome the post-curing issues by producing wrinkle-resistant clothes using pre-cured fabrics.

Chemistry

The crosslinking agents that result in the permanent press finish are often derivatives of urea. Popular crosslinkers include DMDHEU (dimethylol dihydroxyethyleneurea) and DMEU (dimethylol ethylene urea). [18]

The permanent press effect arises from crosslinking of molecules of cellulose by chemical agents such as DMDHEU. DMDHEUfunction.png
The permanent press effect arises from crosslinking of molecules of cellulose by chemical agents such as DMDHEU.

Washing and drying machines

In older washing machines, the permanent press setting sprays moisture during the spin cycle to maintain the moisture content of the permanent press fabrics above a certain specified limit to reduce wrinkling. [19] Most older clothes dryers feature an automatic permanent press setting, which puts clothes through a cool-down cycle at the end of the normal heated drying cycle. Modern dryers tend to include this as a standard feature.

Another solution

In the 2000s, wrinkle-reduction sprays were launched to provide more resistance to external stress and wrinkle recovery, [16] which can be improved by spraying fabrics with aqueous emulsions made with vegetable oils. The sprays allow the fibers to slide closer to each other, helping them hold their shapes. Moreover, this process is cheaper and simpler, minimizing chemical waste and water/energy consumption. [16] The more effective anti-wrinkle sprays have higher concentrations of vegetable oils that are low in unsaturated fatty acids. [16]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing</span> Objects worn to cover a portion of the body

Clothing is any item worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural products found in the environment, put together. The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depends on gender, body type, social factors, and geographic considerations. Garments cover the body, footwear covers the feet, gloves cover the hands, while hats and headgear cover the head, and underwear covers the private parts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Linen</span> Textile made from spun flax fibre

Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothes iron</span> Tool or appliance for smoothing cloth using heat and pressure

A clothes iron is a small appliance that, when heated, is used to press clothes to remove wrinkles and unwanted creases. Domestic irons generally range in operating temperature from between 121 °C (250 °F) to 182 °C (360 °F). It is named for the metal (iron) of which the device was historically made, and the use of it is generally called ironing, the final step in the process of laundering clothes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lyocell</span> Regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolving pulp

Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fiber used to make textiles for clothing and other purposes. It is a form of regenerated cellulose made by dissolving pulp and dry jet-wet spinning. Unlike rayon made by the more common viscose processes, Lyocell production does not use carbon disulfide, which is toxic to workers and the environment. Lyocell was originally trademarked as Tencel in 1982.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cellulose triacetate</span> Chemical compound

Cellulose triacetate, triacetate, CTA or TAC is a chemical compound produced from cellulose and a source of acetate esters, typically acetic anhydride. Triacetate is commonly used for the creation of fibres and film base. It is chemically similar to cellulose acetate. Its distinguishing characteristic is that in triacetate, at least "92 percent of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated." During the manufacture of triacetate, the cellulose is completely acetylated; whereas in normal cellulose acetate or cellulose diacetate, it is only partially acetylated. Triacetate is significantly more heat resistant than cellulose acetate.

A fabric softener or fabric conditioner is a conditioner applied to laundry after it has been washed in a washing machine. A similar, more dilute preparation meant to be applied to dry fabric is known as a wrinkle releaser.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile manufacturing</span> The industry which produces textiles

Textile manufacturing or textile engineering is a major industry. It is largely based on the conversion of fibre into yarn, then yarn into fabric. These are then dyed or printed, fabricated into cloth which is then converted into useful goods such as clothing, household items, upholstery and various industrial products.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Durable water repellent</span> Fabric finish

Durable water repellent, or DWR, is a coating added to fabrics at the factory to make them water-resistant (hydrophobic). Most factory-applied treatments are fluoropolymer based; these applications are quite thin and not always effective. Durable water repellents are commonly used in conjunction with waterproof breathable fabrics such as Gore-Tex to prevent the outer layer of fabric from becoming saturated with water. This saturation, called 'wetting out,' can reduce the garment's breathability and let water through. As the DWR wears off over time, re-treatment is recommended when necessary. Many spray-on and wash-in products for treatment of non-waterproof garments and re-treatment of proofed garments losing their water-repellency are available.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Methyl carbamate</span> Chemical compound

Methyl carbamate (also called methylurethane, or urethylane) is an organic compound and the simplest ester of carbamic acid (H2NCO2H). It is a colourless solid.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ruth R. Benerito</span> American scientist and inventor (1916–2013)

Ruth Mary Rogan Benerito was an American physical chemist and inventor known for her huge impact work related to the textile industry, notably including the development of wash-and-wear cotton fabrics using a technique called cross-linking. She held 55 patents.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride</span> Chemical compound

Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium chloride (THPC) is an organophosphorus compound with the chemical formula [P(CH2OH)4]Cl. It is a white water-soluble salt. THPC has applications as a precursor to fire-retardant materials, as well as a microbiocide in commercial and industrial water systems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Finishing (textiles)</span> Manufacturing process

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ironing</span> Process of removing wrinkles from fabric

Ironing is the use of an iron, usually heated, to remove wrinkles and unwanted creases from fabric. The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °C (360–430 °F), depending on the fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibres of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibres are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds. Many modern fabrics are advertised as needing little or no ironing. Permanent press clothing was developed to reduce the ironing necessary by combining wrinkle-resistant polyester with cotton.

Dimensional stability pertains to a fabric's ability to maintain its initial size and shape even after undergoing wear and care, which is a desirable property. Textile manufacturing is based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, includes spinning, weaving, or knitting, etc. The fabric passes through many inevitable changes and mechanical forces during this journey. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium, and all stresses and strains are relaxed and the fabric tries to come back to its original state.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dimethylol ethylene urea</span> Chemical compound

Dimethylol ethylene urea is an organic compound derived from formaldehyde and urea. It is a colourless solid that is used for treating cellulose-based heavy fabrics to inhibit wrinkle formation. Dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU) bonds with the hydroxyl groups present in long cellulose chains and prevents the formation hydrogen bonding between the chains, the primary cause of wrinkling. This treatment produces permanently wrinkle-resistant fabrics and is different from the effects achieved from using fabric softeners. An additional names for DMEU includes 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-tetrahydro-2-imidazolone.

Wet Processing Engineering is one of the major streams in Textile Engineering or Textile manufacturing which refers to the engineering of textile chemical processes and associated applied science. The other three streams in textile engineering are yarn engineering, fabric engineering, and apparel engineering. The processes of this stream are involved or carried out in an aqueous stage. Hence, it is called a wet process which usually covers pre-treatment, dyeing, printing, and finishing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fabric treatment</span>

Fabric treatments are processes that make fabric softer, or water resistant, or enhance dye penetration after they are woven. Fabric treatments get applied when the textile itself cannot add other properties. Treatments include, scrim, foam lamination, fabric protector or stain repellent, anti microbial and flame retardant.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile performance</span> Fitness for purpose of textiles

Textile performance, also known as fitness for purpose, is a textile's capacity to withstand various conditions, environments, and hazards, qualifying it for particular uses. The performance of textile products influences their appearance, comfort, durability, and protection. Different textile applications require a different set of performance parameters. As a result, the specifications determine the level of performance of a textile product. Textile testing certifies the product's conformity to buying specification. It describes product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where fitness for purpose is the primary criterion. Engineering of high-performance fabrics presents a unique set of challenges.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chemical finishing of textiles</span> Chemical finishing methods that may alter the chemical properties of the treated fabrics

Chemical finishing of textiles refers to the process of applying and treating textiles with a variety of chemicals in order to achieve desired functional and aesthetic properties. Chemical finishing of textiles is a part of the textile finishing process where the emphasis is on chemical substances instead of mechanical finishing. Chemical finishing in textiles also known as wet finishing. Chemical finishing adds properties to the treated textiles. Softening of textiles, durable water repellancy and wrinkle free fabric finishes are examples of chemical finishing.

References

  1. ↑ "Durable Press Finish - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2022-01-03.
  2. 1 2 Pollack, Andrew (29 December 1993). "BUSINESS TECHNOLOGY; A Dream Unfolds for Cotton Shirts" . The New York Times.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Collier, Billie J. (2004-11-30). "Performance Finishes". Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion (PDF). Vol. 3. p. 32.
  4. ↑ Bernard, Tara Siegel (10 December 2010). "When Wrinkle-Free Clothing Also Means Formaldehyde Fumes" . The New York Times.
  5. ↑ Fenner, Justin (2016-05-09). "Non-Iron Dress Shirts Are the Worst". GQ. Retrieved 2018-08-21.
  6. ↑ Colman, David (3 April 2015). "Behold, the Non-Iron Shirt" . The New York Times.
  7. ↑ Epaminondas, George (2016-05-04). "The War Over Non-Iron Shirts". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 2018-08-21.
  8. ↑ "Chemistry and nanotech work to make carefree clothing". Usatoday.Com. 2004-12-31. Retrieved 2019-04-30.
  9. ↑ Helmenstine, Anne Marie (February 11, 2020). "Do You Know Why Clothes Wrinkle?". ThoughtCo.
  10. 1 2 3 4 Yin Ling Lam; Chi Wai Kan; Chun Wah Yuen (24 June 2011). "Wrinkle-resistant finishing with dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneurea (DMDHEU) — the effect of co-catalyst". Textile Research Journal. 81 (14): 1419–1426. doi:10.1177/0040517510387206. S2CID   209344183.
  11. 1 2 3 DeWitt, John W. (March 1994). "Wrinkle-resistant redux". Apparel Industry Magazine. 55 (3): 22. ProQuest   215439347.
  12. ↑ Tracey, David (20 February 1995). "Dressing for Duress: No Wrinkles or Odors". International Herald Tribune. Archived from the original on 28 October 2005.
  13. ↑ Koncius, Jura (2019-05-14). "No, millennials didn't 'kill' ironing. But there is a wrinkle for iron makers". Washington Post.
  14. ↑ "Creating 'greener' wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric" (Press release). American Chemical Society. January 27, 2016. Retrieved July 23, 2020.
  15. 1 2 Dong, Hao (2015). Formaldehyde-Free Wrinkle Resistant Treatment of Cotton Fabrics with Novel Aromatic Polycarboxylic Acids (Thesis). ProQuest   1738859748.
  16. 1 2 3 4 Stefanovic, Bojan; Kostic, Mirjana; Bacher, Markus; Rosenau, Thomas; Potthast, Antje (15 July 2013). "Vegetable oils in textile finishing applications: the action mode of wrinkle-reduction sprays and means for analyzing their performance". Textile Research Journal. 84 (5): 449–460. doi:10.1177/0040517513495946. S2CID   98346981.
  17. 1 2 Greco, Monica (October 1995). "Do WR shirts have a real future?". Apparel Industry Magazine. 56 (10): 40. ProQuest   215438740.
  18. ↑ Fischer, Klaus; Marquardt, Kurt; Schlüter, Kaspar; Gebert, Karlheinz; Borschel, Eva-Marie; Heimann, Sigismund; Kromm, Erich; Giesen, Volker; Schneider, Reinhard; Wayland, Rosser Lee (2000). "Textile Auxiliaries". Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. American Cancer Society. doi:10.1002/14356007.a26_227. ISBN   978-3-527-30673-2.
  19. ↑ "Permanent press cycle for automatic washer - Whirlpool Corporation". Freepatentsonline.com. Retrieved 2019-04-30.
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