Bar mleczny

Last updated
Pig's liver with sauteed onion and tomato soup at a milk bar in Poznan Bar mleczny Kalina, Poznan, pomidorowka, watrobka.jpg
Pig's liver with sauteed onion and tomato soup at a milk bar in Poznań

A bar mleczny (literally translated as "milk bar" from Polish) is a Polish cafeteria which during the Communist era provided government-subsidized traditional Polish cuisine at low cost. The name comes from cheese cutlets, which were often sold when meat was unavailable. [1]

Contents

History

The first milk bar, called "Mleczarnia Nadświdrzańska," was established in 1896 in Warsaw by Stanisław Dłużewski, a member of the Polish landed gentry. [2] [3] Although the typical bar mleczny had a menu based on dairy items, these establishments generally served other, non-dairy traditional Polish dishes as well.

The Lodzki milk bar at Swierczewskiego 82 (now Solidarnosci 82) in Warsaw, c. 1971 Bar mleczny Lodzki al. Swierczewskiego 82 w Warszawie ok. 1971.jpg
The Łódzki milk bar at Świerczewskiego 82 (now Solidarności 82) in Warsaw, c. 1971

The commercial success of the first milk bars encouraged other businessmen to copy this type of restaurant. As Poland regained its independence after World War I, milk bars appeared across most of the country. They offered relatively cheap but nourishing food, and thus achieved even more prominence during the economic depression of the 1930s and World War II. [4]

After the fall of the Nazi regime, Poland became a communist state in the Eastern Bloc. Contrary to official propaganda, the majority of the population was poor, and even moderately-priced restaurants were derided as "capitalist". During the post-war years, most restaurants were nationalized and then closed down by the communist authorities.

In 1959, the concept was copied by Communist Yugoslavia, with the first mlečni restoran in Belgrade "Atina" opened on September 10. [5]

In the mid-1960s, milk bars were common as a means of offering cheap meals to people working in companies that had no official canteen. They still served mostly dairy-based and vegetarian meals, [4] especially during the period of martial law in the early 1980s, when meat was rationed.

Milk bar at Florianska 14 in Warsaw Bar mleczny Rusalka w Warszawie ul. Florianska 14.jpg
Milk bar at Floriańska 14 in Warsaw
Menu of one of Warsaw's milk bars, 2019 Menu Mokotowski Bar Mleczny 2019.jpg
Menu of one of Warsaw's milk bars, 2019

The prevalent idea at that time was to provide all people with cheap meals at the place of their employment. [1] At times, the price of the meals served in the workplace canteens was included in a worker's salary.[ clarification needed ] However, there was also a large number of people working in smaller firms that had no canteen at their disposal. Because of this, during the tenure of Władysław Gomułka, the authorities created a network of small self-service eateries.[ citation needed ] The meals, subsidized by the state, were cheap and easily available to anyone.

Milk bar near the Warsaw Barbican Polish milk bar 04.jpg
Milk bar near the Warsaw Barbican

Apart from raw or processed dairy products, milk bars also served egg (omelets or egg cutlets), cereal or flour-based meals such as pierogi. After the fall of the communist system and the end of the centrally planned economy, the majority of milk bars went bankrupt, as they were superseded by regular restaurants. However, some of them were preserved as relics of the communist era welfare state to support the poorer members of Polish society.

In the early 2010s, milk bars began to make a comeback. They became small, inexpensive restaurants that took advantage of PRL nostalgia, while providing good quality food and customer service. [4] Due to their good locations, milk bars often fall victim to gentrification and are defended by activist groups. [6] Today milk bars are privately owned, but partly subsidized by the state, which allows them to offer low prices. [7]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Milk bar</span> Suburban local general store or café

In Australia, a milk bar is a suburban local general store which can include delicatessens or "delis" and corner shops or corner stores. Similar, but not identical, establishments include tuck shops. Milk bars are traditionally a place where people buy newspapers, and fast-food items such as fish and chips, hamburgers, milkshakes, and snacks. They are essentially a smaller-scale suburban form of the convenience store but are more likely to be "mum and dad" small businesses rather than larger franchised operations. The term is also found in New Zealand, alongside the more local term dairy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Greasy spoon</span> Small and affordable restaurant

A greasy spoon is a small, cheap restaurant typically specializing in short order fare.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Costa Rican cuisine</span> Cuisine originating from Costa Rica

Costa Rican cuisine is known for being mostly mild, with high reliance on fruits and vegetables. Rice and black beans are a staple of most traditional Costa Rican meals, often served three times a day. Costa Rican fare is nutritionally well rounded, and nearly always cooked from scratch from fresh ingredients. Owing to the location of the country, tropical fruits and vegetables are readily available and included in the local cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Finnish cuisine</span> Culinary tradition

Finnish cuisine is notable for generally combining traditional country fare and haute cuisine with contemporary continental-style cooking. Fish and meat play a prominent role in traditional Finnish dishes in some parts of the country, while the dishes elsewhere have traditionally included various vegetables and mushrooms. Evacuees from Karelia contributed to foods in other parts of Finland in the aftermath of the Continuation War.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Polish cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Poland

Polish cuisine is a style of food preparation originating in and widely popular in Poland. Due to Poland's history, Polish cuisine has evolved over the centuries to be very eclectic, and shares many similarities with other national cuisines. Polish cooking in other cultures is often referred to as à la polonaise.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Russian cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Russia

Russian cuisine is a collection of the different dishes and cooking traditions of the Russian people as well as a list of culinary products popular in Russia, with most names being known since pre-Soviet times, coming from all kinds of social circles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Schnitzel</span> Breaded, fried flat piece of meat

Schnitzel is a thin slice of meat. The meat is usually thinned by pounding with a meat tenderizer. Most commonly, the meat is breaded before frying. Breaded schnitzel is popular in many countries and is made using veal, pork, chicken, mutton, beef, or turkey. Schnitzel originated as wiener schnitzel and is very similar to other breaded meat dishes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ukrainian cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Ukraine

Ukrainian cuisine is the collection of the various cooking traditions of the people of Ukraine, one of the largest and most populous European countries. It is heavily influenced by the rich dark soil from which its ingredients come, and often involves many components. Traditional Ukrainian dishes often experience a complex heating process – "at first they are fried or boiled, and then stewed or baked. This is the most distinctive feature of Ukrainian cuisine".

<i>Milanesa</i> South American variation of an Italian dish

The milanesa is a variation of the Lombard veal Milanese, or the Austrian Wiener schnitzel, where generic types of breaded cutlet preparations are known as a milanesa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jewish cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Jewish communities around the world

Jewish cuisine refers to the worldwide cooking traditions of the Jewish people. During its evolution over the course of many centuries, it has been shaped by Jewish dietary laws (kashrut), Jewish festivals and holidays, and traditions centred around Shabbat. Jewish cuisine is influenced by the economics, agriculture, and culinary traditions of the many countries where Jewish communities have settled and varies widely throughout the entire world.

Latvian cuisine typically consists of agricultural products, with meat featuring in most main dishes. Fish is commonly consumed due to Latvia's location on the eastern shore of the Baltic Sea.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chicken Kiev</span> Chicken dish associated with Russian and Ukrainian cuisines

Chicken Kiev, also known as chicken à la Kyiv, is a dish made of chicken fillet pounded and rolled around cold butter, then coated with egg and bread crumbs, and either fried or baked. Since fillets are often referred to as suprêmes in professional cookery, the dish is also called "suprême de volaille à la Kiev". Stuffed chicken breast is generally known in Russian and Ukrainian cuisines as côtelette de volaille. Though it has disputed origins, the dish is particularly popular in the post-Soviet states, as well as in several other countries of the former Eastern Bloc, and in the English-speaking world.

Serbian cuisine is a Balkan cuisine that consists of the culinary methods and traditions of Serbia. Its roots lie in Serbian history, including centuries of cultural contact and influence with the Greeks and the Byzantine Empire, the Ottomans, and Serbia's Balkan neighbours, especially during the existence of Yugoslavia. Historically, Serbian food develops from pastoral customs that involved the keeping of sheep in mountain highlands, in a climate and regional context that favoured animal husbandry over vegetable farming; Serbian food is therefore traditionally richer in animal products and basic grains—corn, wheat and oats—than fresh vegetable dishes. Following the abandonment of widely practiced pastoral lifestyles, Serbian food emerged through the Middle Ages heavily dependent not on lamb or mutton, but on the keeping of pigs for the annual cull and the production of various cured meats, such as sausages, bacon and ham products.

Cutlet refers to:

  1. a thin slice of meat from the leg or ribs of mutton, veal, pork, or chicken
  2. a dish made of such slice, often breaded
  3. a croquette or cutlet-shaped patty made of ground meat
  4. a kind of fish cut where the fish is sliced perpendicular to the spine, rather than parallel ; often synonymous with steak
  5. a prawn or shrimp with its head and outer shell removed, leaving only the flesh and tail
  6. a mash of vegetables fried with bread
<span class="mw-page-title-main">Israeli cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Israel

Israeli cuisine primarily comprises dishes brought from the Jewish diaspora, and has more recently been defined by the development of a notable fusion cuisine characterized by the mixing of Jewish cuisine and Arab cuisine. It also blends together the culinary traditions of the various diaspora groups, namely those of Middle Eastern Jews with roots in Southwest Asia and North Africa, Sephardi Jews from Iberia, and Ashkenazi Jews from Central and Eastern Europe.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Breaded cutlet</span> Meat in breading or batter

Breaded cutlet or braised cutlet is a dish made from coating a cutlet of meat with breading or batter and either frying or baking it.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pozharsky cutlet</span> Russian dish of breaded ground meat

A Pozharsky cutlet is a breaded ground chicken or veal patty that is typical of Russian cuisine. A distinct feature of this cutlet is adding butter to minced meat, which results in an especially juicy and tender consistency. The dish was created in the beginning of the 19th century in Russia and later adopted by French haute cuisine.

Ethiopian Jewish cuisine is the cuisine of the Beta Israel. The cuisine of the Ethiopian Jews is similar to the cuisine of other Ethiopians, with some variations.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jewish dairy restaurant</span>

A Jewish dairy restaurant, dairy lunchroom or dairy deli is a type of vegetarian kosher restaurant, luncheonette or eat-in diner in Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, particularly American Jewish cuisine and the cuisine of New York City.

References

  1. 1 2 Steves, Rick; Hewitt, Cameron (2017-08-15). Rick Steves Snapshot Kraków, Warsaw & Gdansk. Avalon Publishing. ISBN   978-1-63121-624-4.
  2. Kakissis, Joanna (December 1, 2016). "Poles Return To A Taste Of Their Communist Past: Cheap Milk Bars". NPR. Dairy farmer Stanisław Dłużewski opened the first one, Mleczarnia Nadświdrzańska, in Warsaw in 1896, selling cheap milk and egg-based meals.
  3. "Milk Bars – A Taste of Poland". Culture.pl.
  4. 1 2 3 Nierenberg, Amelia (April 21, 2020). "In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment". The New York Times.
  5. "Отворен млечни ресторан »Атина« у Београду". Borba (in Serbian). 1959-09-11. p. 6. Retrieved 2024-03-23.
  6. Pyzik, Agata (2014-06-26). "Milk Bars: the Polish face of gentrification?". Architectural Review. Archived from the original on 2020-04-23. Retrieved 2020-07-28.
  7. Majek, Renata (2015-11-12). "Dofinansowanie do baru mlecznego". biznes.gazetaprawna.pl (in Polish). Archived from the original on 2015-11-16. Retrieved 2021-05-19.