Bootblacking (BDSM)

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Bootblacks take care of the boots, and garments such as leather jackets, vests, chaps, harnesses, as well as other gear of Leatherpeople and the BDSM community. With the establishment of local, regional and international bootblack contests in the 1990s and early 2000s, bootblacks have gained visibility as a subculture in their own right. [1] Nowadays, bootblack stands as well as classes on bootblacking are common fixtures at events, contests, conferences and parties. Bootblacks are not only preserving the physical items (many of which have been gifted, earned or inherited) but are also collecting the stories of their wearers. [2] Therefore, bootblacks play a central role in the oral history of the leather scene. [3] While outsiders often link bootblacking to service-oriented submission, Bootblacks might take on any role in a BDSM dynamic.

Contents

History

English Army Blacking from 1895 Image from page 365 of "Canadian grocer July-December 1895" (1895) (14762209806).jpg
English Army Blacking from 1895

The term “bootblack”, meaning “one who shines shoes”, was first used in 1817, according to Merriam-Webster. [4] It probably stems from the term "blacking", a precursor of modern shoe polish containing lampblack, which was used to care for English soldiers' boots in the 18th and 19th centuries.

While the trade of shoe shining has been around at least since the age of the Industrial Revolution, the origins of bootblacking within the leather community remain unclear. Possible points of reference are military traditions of polishing boots, [5] as well as shoeshine stands in public spaces, which could be found in many cities in Europe and the US before World War II. [6] [7]

The first documented case of shoe shining in a fetish context can be found in the diaries of Hannah Cullwick (1833 – 1909). Cullwick meticulously recorded the number of boots she cleaned on a monthly and yearly basis: For example, on Tuesday, July 31, 1860, she noted: “This is the last day of July. I have cleaned 83 pairs of boots.” [8] She cleaned hundreds each year, sometimes by licking them. [9] [10] She once told her lover Arthur Munby that she could tell where he had been by how his boots tasted: [7] [11]

I can always tell where you've bin by the taste o' your boots.

— Hannah Cullwick, Diaries

Bootblack stands as well as bootblacks operating in leather bars have been documented in the US since the 1970s. These included the Gold Coast in Chicago and the Ramrod in New York City. [12] [13] In later years, more bars adopted the custom, among others the AA Meat Market, [14] the Eagle in Chicago, [15] and the D.C. Eagle. [16] The Eagle in Chicago proved to be influential for international contests, as several future producers and titleholders (Harry Shattuck, IMrBB 1994 William Shields, Jr., IMsBB 1999 Leslie Anderson) bootblacked there. [15] Bootblack stands have also historically been part of leather events like Folsom Street Fair.

Bootblacks got more traction as an identity and a subculture in their own right in the 1990s, when Harry Shattuck founded the first International Bootblack competition at IML in 1993. [1] Due to its popularity, the contest was continued until 1998 and split into International Mr. Bootblack (IMrBB), held at IML, and International Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB), held at IMsL, in 1999. [12] The majority of regional bootblack titles have been more recent additions of the 2000s and 2010s. In Europe, the first regional bootblack competition, called European Bootblack, was held in Antwerp, Belgium in 2019. [7]

A more recent development since the mid 2010s is the emergence of events centering bootblacks themselves and the sharing of skills. [17] [18]

The Leather Archives & Museum keeps multiple objects relating to bootblacks in its collection, including IMBB 2000 David Hawk's bootblacking chair, IMBB 1994 William Shields, Jr.'s bootblacking kit, and a bootblacking chair that was used by IMrBB 1994 ‘Daddy’ William Shields, Jr. in gay bars in Chicago, Boston, Providence and New York City between the 1990s and 2000s, and since 2014 is part of the museum’s permanent exhibitions. [14]

Public Bootblacking

Bootblack working the stand at Folsom Street Fair Shine (27783899525).jpg
Bootblack working the stand at Folsom Street Fair

While bootblacking is an activity that can be done privately at home, many bootblacks enjoy working the stand in leather bars or at events, conferences, socials and contests. A booth usually consists of one or more elevated seats for customers to sit comfortably while the bootblacks clean, buff and polish their shoes, similar to professional shoeshine stands. Depending on the setting and the people involved, the experience can range from a pampering and a friendly chat, comparable to a visit to the hairdresser, to sensual or erotic play (e.g. in the form of boot worship). [19]

Through their service, they are not only preserving the physical items (many of which have been gifted, earned or handed down) but are also collecting the stories of their wearers. Therefore, bootblacks play an important role in the oral tradition of the leather scene. [19] [6]

Techniques

The diversification of the kink scene has been accompanied by an evolution of gear, so that bootblacks today not only care for different types of leather attire, but also vegan leather, rubber, neoprene, and others. Each step in bootblacking requires patience, skill, and an understanding of the proper care of each material to ensure the items not only look aesthetically pleasing but are also well-maintained for longevity. [12]

Leathermen with various types of boots at Manchester Pride Manchester Pride Parade 2022 (52316472123).jpg
Leathermen with various types of boots at Manchester Pride

Still, the most common items during an average bootblack shift remain to be leather boots. Depending on the type of leather, these are either cleaned and conditioned or polished using horse-hair brushes and shoe polish. Many bootblacks are particularly proud of their mirror shine technique (also known as spit shine), which makes the toe cap shine with a glasslike high-gloss finish. A proper spit shine may involve multiple layers of wax and water or saliva, and precise buffing with a cotton cloth or nylon stocking. [20]

Some bootblacks include boot worship and other forms of play and BDSM power dynamics as part of their service. [21]

Bootblack Pride Flag

The Bootblack Pride Flag was designed by Jesse ‘Spanky’ Penley in 2005. It was introduced to the public at the International LeatherSir/ International Leatherboy weekend in Atlanta, GA on October 6th, 2005. Using the Leather Pride colors, the diagonal stripes differentiate it from the leather pride flag. The flag only uses three stripes, two blue, and one white. The width of the stripes, signify the wide range of people who are, and appreciate boot blacks. The unisex boot stands for the non-gender specific nature of bootblacking. The large red heart positioned behind the boot, signifies the heart that the bootblack puts behind their boots. [22]

Titles and Competitions

Bootblacks might participate in competitions, demonstrations, and events where their skills are showcased and celebrated. The most well-known bootblack competitions are International Mr. Bootblack (IMrBB), International Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB), and International Community Bootblack (ICBB).

The oldest bootblack contest within the leather scene is the International Bootblack Competition that was founded by Harry Shattuck in 1993 at the International Mr. Leather event, which in 1999 was split into International Mr. Bootblack (IMrBB/ IMBB) and International Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB). Harry Shattuck, who had been an IML contestant in 1979 and 1986, had been bootblacking at the Gold Coast and the IML Leather Market in prior years. [23] Since the late 1980s, he had been trying to set up a bootblack contest at IML to get more representation for bootblacking in the leather scene. In 1993, he organized the first bootblack contest, which was one of the expansions and improvements of the 1990s at the ever-growing conference. The rules were simple: each IML package contained a ticket for a bootblack session and the bootblack who collected the most tickets over the weekend won. The winner and thus the first International Mr. Bootblack was David Morgan, sponsored by the D.C. Eagle. Due to the great popularity with visitors, the bootblack contest was continued in subsequent years. [12] Before the separation, men, women and gender-nonconforming people alike took part in the gender-neutral competition. At least one woman participated in the very first competition in 1993, with more following in subsequent years. [19] However, the titleholders were exclusively male until 1998, which can be explained by the competition's selection process and the male-dominated crowd. In 1999 the first International Ms. Bootblack was held at International Ms. Leather with Leslie Anderson as the first woman to win an international bootblack title. [24]

IMBB 2000 David Hawk, who also produced the IMrBB competition from 2001 to 2011, introduced several Innovations around the competition, including the First Shine, the sale of travel fund pins, and the IMrBB party with a silent auction, for the purpose of fundraising. [25]

List of Bootblack Competitions

While many leather pageant competitions started between the 1970s and 1990s in the US, the majority of bootblack titles have been more recent additions of the 2000s and 2010s. Today, competitions are held internationally; among others in Europe, Australia and South Africa. The following table includes a non-exhaustive list of past and present bootblack competitions:

This is a dynamic list and may never be able to satisfy particular standards for completeness. You can help by adding missing items with reliable sources.
List of Bootblack Competitions
ContestOrganizerLocationEstablishedStatusReference
International Mr. Bootblack (IMrBB/IMBB) IML Chicago, Illinois1999Inactive [23]
International Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB) IMsLBBPiscataway, New Jersey1999Active [24]
International Community Bootblack (ICBB)ILSb-ICBB, Inc.  St. Petersburg, Florida (2003-04)

Atlanta, Georgia (2005) Dallas, Texas (2006-07) San Francisco (since 2008)

2003 [26]
International BootblackIML Chicago, Illinois1993reorganized into IMrBB and IMsBB in 1999 [12]
European BootblackMSC BelgiumAntwerp, Belgium2019Active [7]
SA Bootblack (South Africa)SA LeatherCapetown, South Africa2017 [27]
UK BootblackBirmingham, UK2023Active [28]
Eastern Canada Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Toronto, Canada2006Inactive [29]
Sydney BootblackSydney, Australia [30]
Illinois BootblackIllinois [31]
Michigan Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Michigan
Gulf Coast Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Dallas, Texas2008 [29]
California Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  California2009Inactive since 2012 [29]
Central Plains Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  St. Louis, Missouri2009 [29]
Florida Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Tampa, Florida2011 [29]
Great Lakes Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Indianapolis, Indiana2008 [29]
Atlantic States Community Bootblack (formerly Mid-Atlantic Community Bootblack)ILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Baltimore, Maryland2005 [29]
Northeast Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Providence, Rhode Island2009 [29]
Northern California Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  San Francisco, CA2007Inactive since 2009 [29]
Northwest Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Seattle, Washington2005 [29]
Rocky Mountain Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Denver, Colorado2012 [29]
Southeast Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Atlanta, Georgia2005 [29]
Southern California Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  California2008 [29]
Southwest Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  Phoenix, Arizona2006 [29]
Northern Plains Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  2011 [29]
Great Planes Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  2004Inactive since 2009 [29]
South Central Community BootblackILSb-ICBB, Inc.  2005Inactive since 2008 [29]
Southwest Leather BootblackSouthwest Leather ConferencePhoenix, Arizona [32]
Colorado BootblackLeather Colorado FoundationDenver, Colorado2012Active [33] [34]
Oregon State BootblackOregon State Leather ContestOregon City, Oregon2011Active [33] [35]
Alaska State BootblackAnchorage, Alaska2015Inactive [36]

See also

Bibliography

Related Research Articles

In BDSM, service-oriented submission is the performance of personal tasks for a dominant partner, as part of a submissive role in a BDSM relationship. The submissive is sometimes said to be in service to the dominant. Service-oriented submission is part of a spectrum of submissive behaviors, and not all submissives are service-oriented.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leather subculture</span> Subculture involving leather garments

Leather subculture denotes practices and styles of dress organized around sexual activities that involve leather garments, such as leather jackets, vests, boots, chaps, harnesses, or other items. Wearing leather garments is one way that participants in this culture self-consciously distinguish themselves from mainstream sexual cultures. Many participants associate leather culture with BDSM practices and its many subcultures. For some, black leather clothing is an erotic fashion that expresses heightened masculinity or the appropriation of sexual power; love of motorcycles, motorcycle clubs and independence; and/or engagement in sexual kink or leather fetishism.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Combat boot</span> Type of boots designed to be worn by soldiers

Combat or tactical boots are military boots designed to be worn by soldiers during combat or combat training, as opposed to during parades and other ceremonial duties. Modern combat boots are designed to provide a combination of grip, ankle stability, and foot protection suitable for a rugged environment. They are traditionally made of hardened and sometimes waterproofed leather. Today, many combat boots incorporate technologies originating in civilian hiking boots, such as Gore-Tex nylon side panels, which improve ventilation and comfort. They are also often specialized for certain climates and conditions, such as jungle boots, desert boots, and cold weather boots as well as specific uses, such as tanker boots and jump boots.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Boot fetishism</span> Sexual fetish

Boot fetishism is a sexual fetish focused on boots. Boots have become the object of sexual attraction amounting to fetishism for some people and they have become a standard accessory in BDSM scenes and a fashion accessory in music videos. Boots are seen as perhaps the most fetishistic of all footwear and boots are the most popular fetish clothing attire.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Australian work boot</span> Style of work boot

An Australian work boot is a style of work shoe, typically constructed with a leather upper bound together with elastic sides and pull tabs on the front and back of the boot. The shoe lacks a tongue, and laces, and often contains a steel toe cap for occupational health and safety reasons. When the shoe contains a steel cap they are often known as "safety boots" or "steel toe boots". The boots generally lack an inner lining. The sole is generally polyurethane and the leather uppers are treated to be resistant to hot water, fats and mild alkaline and acid solutions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shoe polish</span> Product for leather care

Shoe polish, also known as boot polish and shoeshine, is a waxy paste, cream, or liquid that is used to polish, shine, and waterproof leather shoes or boots to extend the footwear's lifespan and restore its appearance. Shoe polishes are distinguished by their textures, which range from liquids to hard waxes. Solvent, waxes, and colorants comprise most shoe polishes. Shoe polishes that would be recognizable today have been around since the Middle Ages. Originally made with dubbin, they were only used to soften leather and weather proof shoes, they did not shine shoes. However, the popularity of shoe shining that arose during the early 1900s led to many shoe polish formulas being incorporated with a shining agent.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Leather Archives & Museum</span> Leather, kink, BDSM, and fetish museum in Chicago, Illinois

The Leather Archives & Museum (LA&M) is a community archives, library, and museum located in the Rogers Park neighborhood of Chicago, Illinois. Founded by Chuck Renslow and Tony DeBlase in 1991, its mission is making “leather, kink, BDSM, and fetish accessible through research, preservation, education and community engagement." Renslow and DeBlase founded the museum in response to the AIDS crisis, during which the leather and fetish communities' history and belongings were frequently lost or intentionally suppressed and discarded.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">International Mr. Leather</span> International leather subculture event

International Mr. Leather(IML) is a multi-day conference and competition celebrating the leather, kink, fetish, and BDSM communities. Established in 1979, IML is held annually in Chicago over Memorial Day weekend, drawing thousands of contestants and spectators from around the world. As of 2024, over 2,100 contestants from 27 countries have competed.

SouthEast LeatherFest (SELF) is an annual adult fetish event for the BDSM, leather, and kink communities based in the United States' Southeast and centered in Georgia with regional and smaller related events held throughout the year.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bull polishing</span>

Bulling, Bull polishing, spit polishing, mirror shining or spit shining refers to a method for polishing leather products, usually leather dress shoes or boots, to give an extremely high shine effect. The finished effect should leave the surface of the leather highly reflective, similar to a patent leather finish. In addition to aesthetics, the wax coating can protect the leather from moisture and scuffs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shoeshiner</span> Person who cleans and polishes foot coverings

Shoeshiner or boot polisher is an occupation in which a person cleans and buffs shoes and then applies a waxy paste to give a shiny appearance and a protective coating. They are often known as shoeshine boys because the job was traditionally done by a male child. Other synonyms are bootblack and shoeblack. While the role is denigrated in much of Western civilization, shining shoes is an important source of income for many children and families throughout the world. Some shoeshiners offer extra services, such as shoe repairs and general tailoring. Some well-known people started their working life as shoeshiners, including singers and presidents.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chukka boot</span> Style of footwear

Chukka boots are ankle-high leather boots with suede or leather uppers, leather, wooden or rubber soles, and open lacing, with two or three pairs of eyelets. The name chukka possibly comes from the game of polo, where a chukka is a period of play.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion boot</span> Boot worn for style rather for utilitarian purposes

A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion. The term is usually applied to women's boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire. Although boots were a popular style of women's footwear in the 19th century, they were not recognized as a high fashion item until the 1960s. They became widely popular in the 1970s and have remained a staple of women's winter wardrobes since then.

The Oregon State Leather Contest is the largest leather title contest in Oregon. Starting in 1997 the contest has celebrated members of the BDSM and Leather community and beginning in 2015 the Pup community. In 2019 a Mx title was added and the Puppy title was changed to Oregon State Pet. The 501c3 "Oregon State Leather Contest has run the event which draws contestants from all over Oregon and SW Washington. Judges for the contest include local community leaders, former title holders, and international title holders. In 2021 the organization's board of directors voted to change the name of the organization from Blackout Leather Productions to Oregon State Leather Contest.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">International Ms. Leather</span> International leather subculture event

International Ms. Leather (IMsL) is an annual leather subculture fetish convention and competition, originally focused on women but now inclusive of all genders. Since 1999, the convention has also included a Ms. Bootblack (IMsBB) contest.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dom Orejudos</span> American artist, dancer, and choreographer (1933–1991)

Domingo Francisco Juan Esteban "Dom" Orejudos, Secundo, also widely known by the pen names Etienne and Stephen, was an openly gay artist, ballet dancer, and choreographer, best known for his ground-breaking gay male erotica beginning in the 1950s. Along with artists George Quaintance and Touko Laaksonen —with whom he became friends—Orejudos' leather-themed art promoted an image of gay men as strong and masculine, as an alternative to the then-dominant stereotype as weak and effeminate. With his first lover and business partner Chuck Renslow, Orejudos established many landmarks of late-20th-century gay male culture, including the Gold Coast bar, Man's Country bathhouse, the International Mr. Leather competition, Chicago's August White Party, and the magazines Triumph, Rawhide, and Mars. He was also active and influential in the Chicago ballet community.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chuck Renslow</span> American businessperson and gay culture pioneer (1929 – 2017)

Charles "Chuck" Renslow was an American businessman, known for pioneering homoerotic male photography in the mid-20th-century US, and establishing many landmarks of late-20th-century gay culture and leather culture, especially in the Chicago area. His accomplishments included the cofounding with Tony DeBlase of the Leather Archives and Museum, the co-founding with Dom Orejudos of the Gold Coast bar, Man's Country bathhouse, and the International Mr. Leather competition, and the founding by himself alone of Chicago's August White Party, and the magazines Triumph, Rawhide, and Mars. He was a romantic partner of Dom Orejudos as well as Chuck Arnett, Samuel Steward, David Grooms, and Ron Ehemann.

Tracy Baim is a Chicago-based LGBT journalist, editor, author, and filmmaker. She is also a former publisher of the Chicago Reader newspaper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gold Coast (bar)</span> Gay leather bar in Chicago

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The D.C. Eagle was a gay leather bar in Washington, D.C., operating from 1971 to 2020. It was relocated several times, with its most recent location at 3701 Benning Rd. NE since 2014. It was one of several unrelated leather bars carrying the name "The Eagle".

References

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  3. ↑ Bannon, Race (2024-05-30). "Buck Harder on Bootblacking". Love at the Edges. Retrieved 2024-05-31.
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  5. ↑ "The Lost Art of Spit Shining". AUSA. 2022-05-25. Retrieved 2024-06-02.
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  7. 1 2 3 4 "The History of Bootblacking" . Retrieved 2024-05-28.
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  14. 1 2 Leatherati (2016-08-26). "From The LA&M Archives-Daddy William & the Bootblack Chair". Medium. Retrieved 2024-06-02.
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  18. ↑ "Bootblack Round Up 2024". Bootblack Round Up. Retrieved 2024-07-05.
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  29. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 "Titleholders". ilsb-icbb.com. 2012-07-31. Archived from the original on 2012-07-31. Retrieved 2024-05-31.
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  33. 1 2 Leatherati (2016-08-26). "Leatherati Bootblack Week: Northwest Bootblacks!". Medium. Retrieved 2024-05-31.
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  35. ↑ "About". Oregon State Leather Contest. Retrieved 2024-05-31.
  36. ↑ Johnson, R. J. (2019-04-24). "Alaska State Bootblack goes International". The Anchorage Press. Retrieved 2024-05-31.
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