Brilliant (diamond cut)

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A scattering of "brilliant" cut diamonds shows off the many reflecting facets. Brillanten.jpg
A scattering of "brilliant" cut diamonds shows off the many reflecting facets.

A brilliant is a diamond or other gemstone cut in a particular form with numerous facets so as to have exceptional brilliance. The underside is conical, a shape that provides maximal light return through the top of the diamond. Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a diamond crystal always results in a dramatic loss of weight; rarely is it less than 50%. The round brilliant cut is preferred when the crystal is an octahedron, as often two stones may be cut from one such crystal. Oddly shaped crystals such as macles are more likely to be cut in a fancy cut that is, a cut other than the round brilliantwhich the particular crystal shape lends itself to.

Contents

Facet proportions and names

Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut. Diamond facets.svg
Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut.

The original round brilliant-cut was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. The ideal proportions are 100% diameter, 53% table, 43.1% pavilion and 16.2% crown. The girdle and culet (if anynot part of Tolkowsky's original design) are cut from the ideal brilliant. The modern round brilliant consists of 58 facets (or 57 if the culet is excluded), ordinarily today cut in two pyramids placed base to base: 33 on the crown (the top half above the middle or girdle of the stone), truncated comparatively near its base by the table, and 25 on the pavilion (the lower half below the girdle), which has only the apex cut off to form the culet, around which 8 extra facets are sometimes added. Over time it has become usual for most girdles to be faceted. Many girdles have 32, 64, 80, or 96 facets; these facets are not counted in the total. While the facet count is standard, the actual proportions (crown height and angle, pavilion depth, etc.) are not standardised. Some gem cutters refer to an American brilliant cut or a Scandinavian brilliant cut. According to Green et al. 2001: [1]

Because every facet has the potential to change a light ray's plane of travel, every facet must be considered in any complete calculation of light paths. Just as a two-dimensional slice of a diamond provides incomplete information about the three-dimensional nature of light behavior inside a diamond, this two-dimensional slice also provides incomplete information about light behavior outside the diamond. A diamond's panorama is three-dimensional. Although diamonds are highly symmetrical, light can enter a diamond from many directions and many angles. This factor further highlights the need to reevaluate Tolkowsky's results, and to recalculate the effects of a diamond's proportions on its appearance aspects.

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Another important point to consider is that Tolkowsky did not follow the path of a ray that was reflected more than twice in the diamond. However, we (Green et al.) now know that a diamond's appearance is composed of many light paths that reflect considerably more than two times within that diamond. Once again, we can see that Tolkowsky's predictions are helpful in explaining optimal diamond performance, but they are incomplete by today's [2001] technological standards. [1]

Figures 1 and 2 show the facets of a round brilliant diamond.

Figure 1 assumes that the "thick part of the girdle" is the same thickness at all 16 "thick parts". It does not consider the effects of indexed upper girdle facets.

Figure 2 is adapted from Figure 37 of Marcel Tolkowsky's Diamond Design, [2] which was originally published in 1919. Since 1919, the lower girdle facets have become longer. As a result, the pavilion main facets have become narrower.

Cut grading

Solitary ring and diamond before mounting Solitary ring and diamond.JPG
Solitary ring and diamond before mounting

The relationship between the crown angle and the pavilion angle has the greatest effect on the look of the diamond. A slightly steep pavilion angle can sometimes be complemented by a shallower crown angle, and vice versa. [3]

Other proportions also affect the look of the diamond:

Several groups have developed diamond cut grading standards. They all disagree somewhat on which proportions make the best cut. There are certain proportions that are considered best by two or more groups however.

The distance from the viewer's eye to the diamond is important. The 2005 AGS cut standards are based on a distance of 25 centimeters (about 10 inches). The 2004 HCA cut standards are based on a distance of 40 centimeters (about 16 inches).

Polish and symmetry are two important aspects of the cut. The polish grade describes the smoothness of the diamond's facets, and the symmetry grade refers to alignment of the facets. With poor polish, the surface of a facet can be dulled, and may create blurred or dulled sparkle. It may constantly look like it needs to be cleaned. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.

Hearts and arrows phenomenon

A diamond that has the top facet or "table facet" exactly perpendicular to the bottom of the diamond or "pavilion" and has its other facets precisely aligned with excellent symmetry, may show patterns that look like arrows from the top and hearts from the bottom. Generally it will need to be viewed loose under a gemscope to see the pattern very well. Although the hearts and arrows property is indicative of a top-tier cut, it does not always mean the diamond will be the most brilliant. Optimal facet placement is the key to brilliance and more important than facet patterning. Not all ideal round cuts will have the hearts and arrows effect either.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gemstone</span> Piece of mineral crystal used to make jewelry

A gemstone is a piece of mineral crystal which, when cut or polished, is used to make jewelry or other adornments. However, certain rocks and occasionally organic materials that are not minerals are also used for jewelry and are therefore often considered to be gemstones as well. Most gemstones are hard, but some soft minerals are used in jewelry because of their luster or other physical properties that have aesthetic value. Rarity and notoriety are other characteristics that lend value to gemstones.

Diamond cutting is the practice of shaping a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamonds requires specialized knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its extreme difficulty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Facet</span> Flat surface of a gem, crystal, etc.

Facets are flat faces on geometric shapes. The organization of naturally occurring facets was key to early developments in crystallography, since they reflect the underlying symmetry of the crystal structure. Gemstones commonly have facets cut into them in order to improve their appearance by allowing them to reflect light.

Hearts and Arrows (H&A) diamonds are precision-cut variations of the traditional 57 faceted round brilliant cut. They are cut to "ideal" proportions with good optical symmetry, polish and a specific faceting pattern. When all these factors are present, the result is a repeatable, near perfect pattern of eight symmetrical arrows in the face-up position of the stone and eight symmetrical hearts when viewed in the table-down position.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diamond cut</span> Type of cut used when shaping a diamond

A diamond cut is a style or design guide used when shaping a diamond for polishing such as the brilliant cut. Cut refers to shape, and also the symmetry, proportioning and polish of a diamond. The cut of a diamond greatly affects a diamond's brilliance — a poorly-cut diamond is less luminous.

Diamond clarity is the quality of diamonds that relates to the existence and visual appearance of internal characteristics of a diamond called inclusions, and surface defects, called blemishes. Clarity is one of the four Cs of diamond grading, the others being carat, color, and cut.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diamond color</span> Color of diamonds

A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond is perfectly transparent with no hue, or color. However, in reality almost no gem-sized natural diamonds are absolutely perfect. The color of a diamond may be affected by chemical impurities and/or structural defects in the crystal lattice. Depending on the hue and intensity of a diamond's coloration, a diamond's color can either detract from or enhance its value. For example, most white diamonds are discounted in price when more yellow hue is detectable, while intense pink diamonds or blue diamonds can be dramatically more valuable. Of all colored diamonds, red diamonds are the rarest. The Aurora Pyramid of Hope displays a spectacular array of naturally colored diamonds, including red diamonds.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diamond simulant</span> Diamond-like object which is not a diamond

A diamond simulant, diamond imitation or imitation diamond is an object or material with gemological characteristics similar to those of a diamond. Simulants are distinct from synthetic diamonds, which are actual diamonds exhibiting the same material properties as natural diamonds. Enhanced diamonds are also excluded from this definition. A diamond simulant may be artificial, natural, or in some cases a combination thereof. While their material properties depart markedly from those of diamond, simulants have certain desired characteristics—such as dispersion and hardness—which lend themselves to imitation. Trained gemologists with appropriate equipment are able to distinguish natural and synthetic diamonds from all diamond simulants, primarily by visual inspection.

The De Beers Centenary Diamond is, at 273.85 carats (54.770 g), the third-largest diamond to have been produced in the Premier Mine. Among top-color diamonds, only the Cullinan I and II are larger than the Centenary diamond. The Centenary Diamond is rated in color as grade D color by the Gemological Institute of America, which is the highest grade of colourless diamond and is internally and externally flawless. It was named the Centenary Diamond as it was presented in the rough for the Centennial Celebration of De Beers Consolidated Mines on 11 May 1988. The Centenary Diamond was unveiled in final form in May 1991.

Marcel Tolkowsky, an engineer by education, was a Belgian member of a Jewish family of diamond cutters from Poland. He is generally acknowledged as the father of the modern round brilliant diamond cut. Many of his family have gone on to become noted diamond cutters, including his cousin Lazare Kaplan and his great-nephew Gabi Tolkowsky.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">American Gem Society</span> American trade association

The American Gem Society (AGS) is a trade association of retail jewelers, independent appraisers, suppliers, and selective industry members, which was founded in 1934 by Robert M. Shipley.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Royal Asscher Diamond Company</span> Dutch diamond-cutting company

The Royal Asscher Diamond Company was founded in 1854 by the Asscher family of gemcutters. The company is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world including two of the top three largest diamonds ever found. Its headquarters still stand at its original location Tolstraat 127 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The company also has regional headquarters in New York City and Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Culet</span> Bottom protective gemstone facet

In gemology, a culet is a flat face on the bottom of a gemstone.

Gabriel S. Tolkowsky was a Belgian diamond cutter. He was known for cutting the famous Centenary Diamond, and was one of the world's most renowned diamond cutters. The great nephew of Marcel Tolkowsky, father of the modern round brilliant diamond cut, he is the sixth generation in his family to become well-known in the diamond cutting trade.

A faceting machine is broadly defined as any device that allows the user to place and polish facets onto a mineral specimen. Machines can range in sophistication from primitive jamb-peg machines to highly refined, and highly expensive, commercially available machines. A major division among machines is found between those that facet diamonds and those that do not. Specialized equipment is required for diamond faceting, and faceting as an occupation rarely bridges the gap between diamond and non-diamond workmanship. A second division can be made between industrial faceting and custom/hobby faceting. The vast majority of jewelry-store gemstones are faceted either abroad in factories or entirely by machines. Custom jewelry is still commonly made of custom metalwork and mass-produced gemstones, but unusual cuts or particularly valuable gemstone material will likely be faceted on a personal faceting machine.

Diamond is one of the best-known and most sought-after gemstones. They have been used as decorative items since ancient times.

Diamond flaws are common. Few natural diamonds are perfect; most of them have inclusions or imperfections. These inclusions are also known as flaws and exist in various forms, such as exterior and interior. Inclusions are also classified in the manner in which they were formed. For example, syngenetic diamond inclusions are inclusions which were formed while a diamond formed, while epigenetic inclusions occurred after a diamond was formed.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond</span> Blue diamond

The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond is a 31.06-carat (6.212 g) deep-blue diamond with internally flawless clarity, originating in the Kollur Mine, India. Laurence Graff purchased the Wittelsbach Diamond in 2008 for £16.4 million. In 2010, Graff revealed he had had the diamond cut by three diamond cutters to remove flaws. The diamond was now more than 4 carats (800 mg) lighter and was renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond. There is controversy, as critics claim the recutting has so altered the diamond as to make it unrecognisable, compromising its historical integrity.

Yair Shimansky is a jeweler based in Cape Town, South Africa, who specializes in diamonds. He owns several retail stores in South Africa, and a diamond cutting and polishing business in Johannesburg, South Africa. Shimansky has made what is claimed to be the world's most expensive temporary tattoo and a 900 carat diamond-encrusted soccer ball created for the FIFA World Cup.

References

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  2. Tolkowsky, Marcel (1919) [Web edition 15 November 2003]. "Figure 37". In Paulsen, Jasper (ed.). Diamond Design - A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in a Diamond. London: E. & F. N. Spon, Ltd., New York: Spon & Chamberlain. Archived from the original on 2017-10-24.
  3. Tolkowsky, Marcel (1919) [Web edition 15 November 2003]. Paulsen, Jasper (ed.). Diamond Design - A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in a Diamond. London: E. & F. N. Spon, Ltd., New York: Spon & Chamberlain. Archived from the original on 2023-03-12.
  4. 1 2 Blodgett, Troy; Gilbertson, Al; Geurts, Ron; Green, Barak; Johnson, Mary; Reinitz, Ilene; Yantzer, Phil (June 3, 2005). "Painting and Digging Out" (PDF). GIA Rapaport Diamond Report. Archived from the original (PDF) on August 29, 2006.
  5. Garry Holloway (2001). "HCA: defining ideal cut diamonds (a detailed explanation of the "Holloway Cut Advisor")". Archived from the original on 2005-03-29. Retrieved 2005-03-19.
  6. "OctoNus Software, Moscow State University, Bruce Harding, and others have posted work there". Archived from the original on 2013-01-23. Retrieved 2013-01-28.