The Great 'H' of Scotland was a jewel belonging to Mary, Queen of Scots comprising a large diamond, a ruby, and a gold chain. Also known as the Great Harry, it was broken up in 1604 and made into the Mirror of Great Britain for James VI and I. [3]
The "H" was a pendant known as the 'H' because of its form, and was also called the 'Great Harry'. It appears listed in inventories of jewels belonging to Mary, Queen of Scots. Two of its stones are usually mentioned, a large facetted lozenge diamond, and, hanging or set below, a large cabochon ruby. [4] Mary's inventories refer to "Le Henri", and it was described in French as:
Une grosse bague a pendre facon de .h. en laquelle y a ung gros diamant a lorenge taille a face et dessoubz ung gros rubiz chabochon garniz d'une petitte chesne
A large pendant jewel made as an "h" in which there is a large diamond lozenge facet cut and beneath a large cabochon ruby, fitted with a small chain. [5]
The Great H may have been the pendant of "incalculable value" which Mary wore at her wedding in 1558 at Notre-Dame de Paris, [6] [7] "a son col pendoit une bague d'une valeur inestimable". [8] Catherine de' Medici bought a diamond for Mary's necklace for her espousal and wedding day from Pierre Vast and Michel Fauré, two merchants from Lyon, for 380 livres , while Jehan Joly supplied a cabochon ruby for the necklace, costing 292 livres. Claude Héry sold Catherine nine large pearls for Mary's necklace, costing 671 livres. Mary's goldsmith, Mathurin Lussault, may have assembled this jewel for the bride. [9] [10] Accounts of the day also highlight a ruby called the "Egg of Naples" serving as a pendant at the front of her crown, an "escharboucle" thought to be worth 500,000 Écu or more. [11]
Scottish inventories mention the great diamond and ruby of Mary's "H", with an associated small gold chain. Mary was allowed to keep this jewel after the death of her husband Francis II of France in 1561 and brought it to Scotland. [12] She had to return the Egg of Naples and other pieces regarded as French crown jewels. [13] [14] In 1578, the Great 'H' was described as:
The jowell callit the greit Hary with the letter H contening a grit diament and a grit ruby. [15]
The jewel, as its name suggests, may have been a present from Henri II of France and Catherine de' Medici, and a similar jewel was listed in an inventory of French crown jewels made in 1551, a red-enamelled and diamond-set letter "H" with a cabochon ruby below. [16] It has sometimes been suggested the Great H was a gift from Henry VII to Margaret Tudor, mother of James V of Scotland. [17] James V, Mary's father, owned a different 'H' jewel, a hat badge with a ruby and two figures with the letter 'H', possibly a gift from Henry VIII of England, or a jewel formerly belonging to Margaret Tudor. [18]
Mary hoped to add the "Great H" to the crown jewels of Scotland in memory of her reign, in a list of potential bequests she made in childbed in 1566. [19] She left a second lesser gold "H" which included a cabochon ruby and a pendant pearl to Lord Darnley. [20]
After Mary's abdication, her half-brother Regent Moray and his secretary John Wood brought the "H" with other jewels to England hoping to sell it. [21] Moray's agent Nicolas Elphinstone sold Mary's pearls to Queen Elizabeth. After Regent Moray was assassinated by James Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, his widow Agnes or Annas Keith retained the "H" for several years. In March 1570, William Kirkcaldy of Grange, who held Edinburgh Castle where most of Mary's jewels remained in a coffer, noted which jewels he thought she kept:
the Principall jowall callit the H quhilk me Lady Murray hes with xij of the fornamed Rubeis & dyamands with syndrie uthir jowalls as the belt of curell and syndrie uthir stuff that was in Servays keiping
(modernised) the principal jewel called the H which my Lady Moray has with 12 of the forenamed rubies and diamonds with sundry other jewels as the belt of coral and sundry other stuff that was in the keeping of Servais de Condé. [22]
There is no evidence that Moray had given the jewel to his wife as a gift before his death, as the historians Agnes Strickland and Joseph Robertson supposed. [23] [24]
Mary Queen of Scots, and her agent or lieutenant, the Earl of Huntly, requested the Countess return the jewel to her. Mary wrote threateningly "so be sure, if you hold any thing pertains to me, you and your bairns (children) and maintainers shall feel my displeasure heavily, nor is wrongous gear profitable". [25] Mary's political opponents, Regent Lennox asked for the jewels that Moray had take to England, [26] and his successor, Regent Morton, asked for the jewels and the "H" on behalf of James VI. [27]
Both the Queen's Party and the King's Party of the Marian Civil War wanted the "H" and other jewels in the countess' hands, including a belt of coral and twelve rubies and diamonds. [28] [29] Agnes Keith looked to England for help in this predicament. She wrote from Dunnotar on 2 November 1570 to William Cecil asking him to intercede with Queen Elizabeth so that Mary would cease from urging Huntly to trouble her and her children for the jewels. She claimed she had not known at first that the jewels were Mary's. She also wanted Elizabeth to write to Regent Lennox, asking him not to requisition the jewels. [30] The English ambassador Thomas Randolph wrote to Cecil on her behalf, saying her friends advised her to yield to neither side. [31] She later claimed that the value of the jewels was just recompense for the expenses her husband had made as Regent of Scotland. [32]
In 1572, Agnes Keith married Colin Campbell, and in 1573 she became the Countess of Argyll. Regent Morton recovered other royal jewels from those who had obtained them as pledges for loans. [33] Eventually, the Countess returned the "H" to Morton on 5 March 1575. [34] [35] [36] The list of the returned jewels kept by Morton mentions the "H callit the great Hary" with other jewels, three diamonds and three rubies, "ressavit fra the lady Argile". [37] [38]
It has been suggested that a portrait of the Countess of Moray depicts her wearing the queen's jewels, with crowns in her hair band, and the jewel worn at her neck includes a large cabochon ruby like that of the Great Harry. However, the picture is usually regarded as a marriage portrait made earlier in the 1560s. [39] More recently the jewellery depicted has been characterised as showing a "costly austerity" in comparison with other renaissance portraits. [40]
After James VI came of age, in 1581 he ordered the treasurer, William Ruthven, 1st Earl of Gowrie to give several jewels from his mother's collection to his favourite, Esmé Stewart, 1st Duke of Lennox including, in June, a gold chain of knots of pearls and diamonds. [41] In October Lennox received a gold cross with diamonds and rubies, a chain of rubies, a carcan necklace of diamonds and gold roses, fore and back garnishings for a woman's head dress and other pieces that had belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots, with the Great H, [42] which was again detailed as:
the greit Hary with the letter H contenand a greit dyamant and a greit ruby [43]
The receipt was signed by witnesses including Elizabeth Stewart and Alexander Hay of Easter Kennet. Lennox returned the jewels when he left for France in 1583. [44]
In 1585, the former royal favourite James Stewart, Earl of Arran was said to have embarked on a boat belonging to Robert Jameson at Ayr carrying royal jewellery including the "Kingis Eitche", [45] but he was forced to give his treasure up to Sir William Stewart aboard ship in the coastal water known as the Fairlie Road. [46] Stewart brought it to the King and the jewel was receipted by Sir George Home. [47] It was noted that William Stewart had negotiated the recovery of the jewels, and delivered the "H" into the "king's own hands". [48] The jewels recovered from the Earl of Arran and his wife Elizabeth Stewart, including the "H" were finally formally returned to the treasurer of Scotland, Robert Melville on 23 February 1586. [49]
James VI gave the 'H' to Anne of Denmark to wear, possibly among a gift of the "greatest part of his jewels" mentioned in December 1593. [50] However, in September 1594 King James pawned the jewel with the goldsmith Thomas Foulis for £12,000 Scots, or £2000 Sterling. [51] With the "H" was a small two inch gold chain. It was noted that the large diamond was in the centre "the middis of the same H". Foulis would be repaid from money sent to James VI by Elizabeth I, now known as the "English subsidy". [52]
James VI needed the money for his military expedition to the north of Scotland against the Earl of Huntly and the Earl of Erroll. [53] The English diplomat George Nicholson heard that Anne of Denmark had offered the "H" to her friend the Countess of Erroll as recompense for the demolition of Slains Castle, [54] and that Foulis had a breakdown in January 1598 when James reclaimed the jewel without payment. [55] [56] Nicolson wrote:
Thomas Fowlis made lately depute-threasurer, fell madd sick this day, some thinck for care of his debtes, others because the King hathe gotten from him the H. which was pawned to him to furnish the Kinges rode last against the papise erles, which H. the King to the Quene who in geistes gave it to the Lady Errol, saying it was litle enoughe that she had it a night for the casting downe of her husbandes house. [57]
King James brought the "H" to England, with other jewels deemed to be important, including the "espousall ring of Denmark". [58] Portraits of Anne of Denmark made at this time show her wearing a jewel including a large diamond and cabochon ruby, flanked by four precious stones on both sides. [59]
In 1604 or 1605 the Great H was dismantled and the large diamond, which was described as "cut lozenge-wise", [60] was used in the new Mirror of Great Britain which James wore as a hat badge. [61] The Mirror of Great Britain was created to commemorate the Union of the Crowns of 1603. [62] [63] It included the Sancy Diamond, for which the French ambassador Christophe de Harlay, comte de Beaumont was paid 60,000 French crowns. [64] [65] [66]
The Mirror of Great Britain, including the ruby of the Great H, was annexed to the crown for posterity by James VI and I in March 1606. [67] The remaining components of the Great 'H' were mentioned in 1606 when George Home, now Earl of Dunbar, gave up the office of Master of the Wardrobe and delivered to James Hay, master of the robes, the rest of the jewel including the chain and ruby. [68]
Arbella Stuart had an "H" of gold set with a rock ruby, among jewels bequeathed to her by her grandmother Margaret Douglas. Her mother's executor Thomas Fowler took these pieces to Scotland and died in April 1590 while James VI was in Denmark. Francis Stewart, 5th Earl of Bothwell obtained Arbella's jewels and seems to have delivered them to the king. This "H" may have belonged to Margaret Tudor, sister of Henry VIII, and wife of James IV of Scotland. [69]
King James gave an "old jewel" in the form of an 'H' from the royal collection to Frances Howard, Duchess of Richmond on 11 March 1623. This jewel had two pointed diamonds, six table cut diamonds, and three pendant pearls, and was kept in a crimson box in the secret jewel house of the Tower of London. [70] [71] [72] King James had previously given this jewel to Anna of Denmark in 1607, and she also had another "H" jewel with rubies and diamonds. [73]
Prince Henry had yet another "H" jewel, described after his death as "a ballas ruby in form of an H with pearls upon every side, with a great pearl hanging thereto." [74] [75] It is not clear if this was newly made for Henry or was another heirloom piece.
In 1540 Henry VIII gave Katherine Howard an "hache of gold wherin is vj feir diamondes" with an emerald and four pendant pearls, which differs from the pieces described above. [76] [77] A 17th-century Howard family will mentions an "H" jewel, said to have been Catherine Howard's, with seven diamonds and three pendant pearls. [78] Among jewels with the letters "H" and "K" in a coffer marked as the "Queen's Jewels" in 1547 was an "H" with seven diamonds and three pendant pearls. [79]
Anne Seymour, Duchess of Somerset who died in 1587, owned "a fair square tablet of gold like an H, with four diamonds, and a rock ruby or ballas in the midst, garnished with pearl, with a pearl pendant". [80]
Mary Livingston was a Scottish noblewoman and childhood companion of Mary, Queen of Scots, one of the famous "Four Marys".
Agnes Keith, Countess of Moray was a Scottish noblewoman. She was the wife of James Stewart, 1st Earl of Moray, regent of Scotland and the illegitimate half-brother of Mary, Queen of Scots, making her a sister-in-law of the Scottish queen. As the wife of the regent, Agnes was the most powerful woman in Scotland from 1567 until her husband's assassination in 1570.
Anne Livingstone, Countess of Eglinton was a Scottish courtier and aristocrat, and lady-in-waiting to Princess Elizabeth and Anne of Denmark.
Servais de Condé or Condez was a French servant at the court of Mary Queen of Scots, in charge of her wardrobe and the costume for masques performed at the Scottish royal court.
Annabell Murray, Countess of Mar (1536–1603), was a Scottish landowner, courtier and royal servant, the keeper of the infant James VI and his son Prince Henry at Stirling Castle.
Nichola or Nicolle was a fool or jester to Mary, Queen of Scots.
Nicolas or Nicoll Elphinstone was a Scottish courtier and diplomatic messenger. He was the son of Lawrence Elphinstone of Selmys, 1435–1515. He worked for James Stewart, Regent Moray and was involved in attempts to sell the jewels and pearls of Mary, Queen of Scots in 1567 and 1568. Moray needed to raise money to govern Scotland and subdue Mary's supporters by force.
Magdalen Livingstone was a Scottish courtier. She was a favoured lady-in-waiting to Mary, Queen of Scots, and later belonged to the household of Prince Henry.
The jewels of Mary, Queen of Scots (1542–1587), are mainly known through the evidence of inventories held by the National Records of Scotland. She was bought jewels during her childhood in France, adding to those she inherited. She gave gifts of jewels to her friends and to reward diplomats. When she abdicated and went to England many of the jewels she left behind in Scotland were sold or pledged for loans, first by her enemies and later by her allies. Mary continued to buy new jewels, some from France, and use them to reward her supporters. In Scotland her remaining jewels were worn by her son James VI and his favourites.
John Mosman or Mossman was a Scottish goldsmith based in Edinburgh who served the royal court and was involved in gold mining.
James Mosman or Mossman was a Scottish goldsmith. He and his son John Mosman were supporters of the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots. James Mosman was executed in 1573 for counterfeiting coins in Edinburgh Castle. John Mosman carried letters for Mary, Queen of Scots, and was under surveillance by Francis Walsingham.
Mademoiselle Rallay or Madame Raylie was a Scottish courtier. She served as chamberwoman and then lady-in-waiting to Mary, Queen of Scots. She was described as one of Mary's favorites. Her niece Renée Rallay, also known as Beauregard, also served Mary, Queen of Scots.
The jewels of Anne of Denmark (1574–1619), wife of James VI and I and queen consort of Scotland and England, are known from accounts and inventories, and their depiction in portraits by artists including Paul van Somer. A few pieces survive. Some modern historians prefer the name "Anna" to "Anne", following the spelling of numerous examples of her signature.
The wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots, was described in several contemporary documents, and many records of her costume have been published.
The jewellery and jewels owned by James V of Scotland are mainly known from the royal treasurer's accounts and inventories. James V reinforced his authority by lavish display.
An inventory of the jewels of Mary I of England, known as Princess Mary or the Lady Mary in the years 1542 to 1546, was kept by her lady in waiting Mary Finch. The manuscript is now held by the British Library. It was published by Frederic Madden in 1831. Some pieces are listed twice. Two surviving drawings feature a ribbon with the inscription, "MI LADI PRINSIS". The British Library also has an inventory of the jewels she inherited on coming to the throne in 1553.
Several documents list the jewels of Margaret Tudor, daughter of Henry VII of England and Elizabeth of York. Margaret married James IV of Scotland in 1503.
Jewels belonging to Arbella Stuart were noted in several lists. They include jewels which she inherited from her grandmother, Margaret Douglas, Countess of Lennox, which were taken to Scotland by her mother's executor.
Guyonne de Breüil was a French lady-in-waiting at the court of Mary, Queen of Scots in France and Scotland.
Gillis Mowbray or Gilles Moubray was a servant of Mary, Queen of Scots, associated with a small collection of jewellery held by the National Museums of Scotland, known as the "Penicuik jewels".