Hemmerle

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Hemmerle is a Munich-based jeweller founded in 1893 by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle. [1]

Contents

Background

Anton and Joseph Hemmerle established Hemmerle by taking over an established goldsmiths’ company specialising in medals and orders and in 1895 they are appointment 'Purveyor to the Court' by Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria by Royal warrant of appointment to create medals for the Royal Bavarian Court, Bavarian Order of Merit. [2] The Hemmerle boutique at 14 Maximillianstrasse opened in 1904 and remains there today. [3]

Today, Christian Hemmerle, Joseph's great-grandson, manages the company along with his wife Yasmin and parents Stefan and Sylveli. [4] [5] Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, Stefan and Sylveli’s son and daughter-in-law joined Hemmerle in 2006. [6]

Stefan Hemmerle in 1995 designed a ring for the wife of a Munich art collector, in response to her practice of wearing Berlin iron jewellery (which Germans received in exchange for donating their gold and silver jewels toward funding the War of Liberation). He set a diamond in textured iron rather than in gold or platinum. The combination of common metal with a precious stone was unusual. [7]

Hemmerle, is the exclusive maker of the Bavarian Order of Merit [2] since it was instituted in 1957 [8] as well as exclusively responsible for the making of the Bavarian Maximilian Order for Science and Art since 1905. [9]

Design

Hemmerle jewellers use gemstones including orange-pink sapphires, green diamonds or conch pearls. [10] often set in unorthodox materials such as copper, steel or wood. [11] [12] Each piece is designed as a unique creation. The family use materials including South China Sea Melo pearls [13] or blue aquamarines from Brazil's Santa Maria mines.

Hemmerle's styles include the tassel earring, created using a traditional Austrian technique of knitting together cut stones often in bright colours into invisibly stitched strands. [14]

Hemmerle's Harmony bangle was included in the permanent collection of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at London's Victoria and Albert Museum in October 2010. [15]

In 2011, the Hemmerles co-wrote a book Delicious Jewels with the chef and author Tamasin Day-Lewis, published by Prestel Publishing. [16]

Hemmerle's Harmony bangle, Egyptian Story, 2012, became part of the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York City in January 2013. [17]

In 2014 the company designed a jewellery collection titled Nature's Jewels consisting of twelve brooches, two pairs of earrings, a necklace and a ring, with themes of fruits, seeds, leaves and trees. [18] The company also published a poetry book, Nature’s Jewels. [19] through the art-book publisher Mack with poems by Greta Bellamacina. [20]

In 2016 Hemmerle announced The [AL] Project, a series of jewels exploring the properties of aluminium, previewed at TEFAF in Maastricht. [21] In the same year, Hemmerle participated in Beauty—Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. This is the fifth instalment of the Triennial exhibition series. [22]

In 2018 Hemmerle celebrated its 125th anniversary with two projects. [23] The first was Hidden Treasures with creations inspired by its past as a medal-maker [9] and the second was the Revived Treasures project with a body of work that paid homage to Egyptian civilisation. [24] [25] The project included twenty four one-of-a-kind creations, sixteen of which incorporated ancient Egyptian artifacts that were treasure-hunted and collected over the past decade, one creation incorporated a 19th century artifact and seven creations were inspired by Egyptian motifs and culture. [26] [27]

In 2019 a Bishop’s Pectoral Cross created by Hemmerle in 1900 joined the permanent collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. The cross was designed by Hemmerle’s founders - brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle - for the Exposition Universelle of 1900 in Paris, where it was awarded one of the show’s prizes. [28] [29]

Museum exhibitions

Hemmerle jewels have been part of numerous exhibitions worldwide including Canada, the United States, Japan, Australia, France and the UAE, amongst others. Exhibitions include: Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, Die Neue Sammlung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and Design, Munich, Germany (2006); Pearls, travelling exhibition (2001-2008); The Nature of Diamonds, travelling exhibition (2008-2010); The Pearl Exhibition, Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar (2010); Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World, Schmuckmuseum, Pforzheim, Germany, (2010-2011); Pearls, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK (2013-2014), and Beauty - Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York USA (2016).

Related Research Articles

Jewellery Form of personal adornment

Jewellery or jewelry consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment, such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and cufflinks. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a western perspective, the term is restricted to durable ornaments, excluding flowers for example. For many centuries metal such as gold often combined with gemstones, has been the normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as shells and other plant materials may be used.

Necklace Article of jewellery worn around the neck

A necklace is an article of jewellery that is worn around the neck. Necklaces may have been one of the earliest types of adornment worn by humans. They often serve ceremonial, religious, magical, or funerary purposes and are also used as symbols of wealth and status, given that they are commonly made of precious metals and stones.

Bracelet

A bracelet is an article of jewellery that is worn around the wrist. Bracelets may serve different uses, such as being worn as an ornament. When worn as ornaments, bracelets may have a supportive function to hold other items of decoration, such as charms. Medical and identity information are marked on some bracelets, such as allergy bracelets, hospital patient-identification tags, and bracelet tags for newborn babies. Bracelets may be worn to signify a certain phenomenon, such as breast cancer awareness, or for religious/cultural purposes.

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum Design museum in Manhattan, New York

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Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels is a French luxury jewelry, watch, and perfume company. It was founded in 1896 by Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels in Paris. Their pieces often feature flowers, animals, and fairies, and have been worn by style icons such as Grace Kelly, Farah Pahlavi, Eva Perón, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor and Queen Nazli of Egypt.

Art jewelry

Art jewelry is one of the names given to jewelry created by studio craftspeople. As the name suggests, art jewelry emphasizes creative expression and design, and is characterized by the use of a variety of materials, often commonplace or of low economic value. In this sense, it forms a counterbalance to the use of "precious materials" in conventional or fine jewelry, where the value of the object is tied to the value of the materials from which it is made. Art jewelry is related to studio craft in other media such as glass, wood, plastics and clay; it shares beliefs and values, education and training, circumstances of production, and networks of distribution and publicity with the wider field of studio craft. Art jewelry also has links to fine art and design.

Wartski is a British family firm of antique dealers specialising in Russian works of art; particularly those by Carl Fabergé, fine jewellery and silver. Founded in North Wales in 1865, the business is located at 60 St James's Street, London, SW1. The company holds royal appointments as jewellers to the Queen and the Prince of Wales.

David Revere McFadden was Chief Curator and Vice President for Programs and Collections at the Museum of Arts & Design in New York City from 1997 until his retirement in 2013.

Elizabeth Gage

Elizabeth Gage MBE is a British jewellery designer and trained master goldsmith who has been creating collectable jewellery for over 50 years. She has been described by the trade as someone "whose large rings, historical references, gorgeous stones and elaborate craftsmanship set the tone for a whole generation".

Alexandre Reza was a Paris-based jeweler known for his diverse and rare collection of precious gemstones. He is lauded as the greatest gem collector of modern times.

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Giovanni Sebastiano Meyandi was an Italian jeweler, active in Italy between the years 1762 and 1794. He made drawings of his work, often leaving notes on the back of the drawings. These notes may have included the name of his client, what the jewelry was made of, how it was to be delivered, and who would be the recipient. His work is held in the collection of the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum. There is also one design drawing for a necklace and earring held at the University of Michigan Museum of Art.

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References

  1. ↑ Newman, Jill (1 March 2010). "Jewelry: Forging Ahead". Robb Report . Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  2. 1 2 "Bayerische Staatsregierung" (in German). Bavarian State Government. Archived from the original on September 3, 2014.
  3. ↑ Becker, Vivienne (8 July 2010). "The Cult Shop-Hemmerle". How To Spend It . London. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  4. ↑ Forsyth, Liz (Winter 2009). "Their Dark Materials". Intelligent Life . Archived from the original on 2012-07-07.
  5. ↑ Roderick, Kyle. "House of Hemmerle Exhibits High Jewelry at TEFAF Maastricht". Forbes. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  6. ↑ Sporn, Stephanie (Nov 13, 2019). "Hemmerle's Key to Evolving Their 126-Year-Old Jewelry House? Slowing Down". Sotheby's. Retrieved 17 April 2020.
  7. ↑ Lankarani, Nazanin (20 May 2010). "Dedication to Originality and Boldness". The New York Times .
  8. ↑ "Hemmerle, About Us" . Retrieved 17 April 2020.
  9. 1 2 Royce-Greensill, Sarah (2018-03-09). "Hemmerle celebrates 125 years with a collection inspired by its past as a medal-maker". The Telegraph. ISSN   0307-1235 . Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  10. ↑ Bari, Hubert (16 October 2007). The Pink Pearl: A Natural Treasure of the Caribbean. Skira. p. 112. ISBN   978-8861300132.
  11. ↑ Newman, Jill (11 July 2010). "Hemmerle". Robb Report. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  12. ↑ Peltason, Ruth (1 October 2010). Jewelry from Nature. Thames & Hudson. p. 129. ISBN   978-0500515334.
  13. ↑ Bari, Hubert (14 September 2010). Pearls. Skira. p. 177. ISBN   978-8857200880.
  14. ↑ Diamond, Jessica (5 July 2012). "Gallery". Wallpaper* . Archived from the original on 9 February 2013.
  15. ↑ Neel, Julia (30 June 2010). "Best of Bavaria". Vogue . Archived from the original on 28 July 2011. Retrieved 14 August 2012.
  16. ↑ Ballentine, Sandra (28 April 2011). "A Profile in Style — Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle". The New York Times.
  17. ↑ Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. "Egyptian Story Bangle Bracelet, 2012". Smithsonian Institution. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  18. ↑ Kolesnikov-Jessop, Sonia (17 March 2014). "Hemmerle Launches Nature's Jewels Collection and Poetry Book at TEFAF". BlouinArtinfo . Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  19. ↑ Nature's Jewels. Hemmerle. ISBN   978-1907946639.
  20. ↑ "Biography". Greta Bellamacina. Archived from the original on 2015-11-27. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  21. ↑ "Hemmerle presents 'The [AL] Project': jewels exploring the properties of aluminium". www.tefaf.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-10. Retrieved 2016-03-07.
  22. ↑ "Cooper Hewitt website".
  23. ↑ Garrahan, Rachel (2018-03-24). "At Hemmerle, Medals Inspire an Anniversary Collection of Jewelry". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  24. ↑ Newman, Jill (2019-06-06). "Jewelry or Work of Art? This Year's Standout Pieces Are Both". Robb Report. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  25. ↑ "At Hemmerle, Tradition and Invention Live in Harmony". Cultured Magazine. 2020-01-27. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  26. ↑ Magazine, Wallpaper* (2018-10-26). "Of Gods and Kings: Hemmerle journeys into Ancient Egypt". Wallpaper*. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  27. ↑ DeMarco, Anthony. "Historic Art And Contemporary Jewels At TEFAF New York Fall Art Fair". Forbes. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
  28. ↑ The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (2019). "Pectoral cross, 1900, Hemmerle" . Retrieved 17 April 2020.
  29. ↑ Vollandes, Stellene (2018-09-20). "The Secret Global Network of Private Super Jewelers". Town & Country. Retrieved 2020-04-17.
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