Irene Emery

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Irene Emery
Archives of American Art - Irene Emery - 3269.jpg
Irene Emery (c. 1937) carving wall of sun bath at Carrie Tingley Hospital for Crippled Children at Hot Springs, New Mexico [1]
Born(1900-02-01)February 1, 1900
Grand Rapids, Michigan, U.S.
DiedMay 21, 1981(1981-05-21) (aged 81) [2]
Education Central School of Hygiene and Physical Education,
University of Arizona
Alma mater University of Wisconsin–Madison,
School of the Art Institute of Chicago
Occupations
  • Art historian
  • scholar
  • curator
  • textile anthropologist
  • sculptor
  • modern dancer

Irene Emery (1900–1981) [3] was an American art historian, scholar, curator, textile anthropologist, sculptor, and modern dancer. [2] [4] She was known for her pioneering research in systematically describing global textiles, and was a leading authority on ancient fabrics and textiles, and for her published book The Primary Structures of Fabrics: An Illustrated Classification (1966). [2] [5]

Contents

Emery had worked at the Textile Museum from 1954 until 1970. [2] Additionally she had worked as a sculptor for the Federal Art Project, and was a modern dancer in Martha Graham Dance Company. [6]

Early life and early education

Irene Emery was born on February 1, 1900, in Grand Rapids, Michigan. [7] She was a descent of industrialist William T. Powers on her maternal side. [7]

She trained in dancing at the Central School of Hygiene and Physical Education in New York City; followed by study at the University of Wisconsin–Madison under Margaret H'Doubler. [7]

Dance career

After graduating from the degree program at the University of Wisconsin, Emery moved to New York City to study under Martha Graham and taught dance at the Chapin School. [7] In 1930, she was roommates with dancer Kitty Reese. [7] Emery was one of dancers in Graham's notable dance presentations, Heretic (1929); Martha Graham's Moment Rustica (1929); and in Léonide Massine's The Rite of Spring (1930). [8] [7] During The Rite of Spring rehearsals, she broke her ankle but continued to dance on the broken ankle, which caused permanent damage and forced her to leave dancing. [7]

Sculpture career

She decided to return to college, studying sculpture at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. [7] After her studies she moved to New Mexico, where worked on local art commissions and worked for the Federal Art Project. Emery was diagnosed with myasthenia gravis which causes muscle weakness, so she could no longer physically continue her sculpture work. [7]

Textile historian and anthropology career

When Emery she was a dancer, she experienced constructing dance costumes. [7] In order to make future costumes she had started collecting textiles in a box. [7] When she could no longer be a sculptor, she started to create textiles with embroidery, followed by weaving. [7] She experimented with different, untraditional textile techniques. [7] In the winter of 1941, she attended the University of Arizona to further her knowledge of textiles. [9]

In the summer 1944, she had a temporary job appointment as a "government weaver" with the goal of conserving Navajo rug and blanket weaving traditions at the Southwestern Range and Sheep Breeding Laboratory in the Cibola National Forest. [7] She worked alongside Navajo weaver Lillian Brown for a month, engaging with both hand-spun and machined yarn. [10] This role set her up for a new career path towards textile anthropology, where she observed disparity in the classification systems. [7] In 1947, she was hired as a research assistant at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture (formerly named Laboratory of Anthropology and the Museum of New Mexico, which merged). [7]

In 1954, Emery was appointed "research curator of technical studies" at the Textile Museum in Washington, D.C., where she remained until 1970. [7] Her work helped to define textiles (i.e., warp and weft) from other types of fabrics (such as felt or looping). [11] [12]

Starting in 1973 after she retired from her position at the museum, Emery created an annual workshop for academics in the field of textiles, named the Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles. [2]

Awards

Publications

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ceinture fléchée</span> Traditional French-Canadian sash

The ceinture fléchée or is a type of colourful sash, a traditional piece of Québécois clothing linked to at least the 17th century. The Métis also adopted and made ceintures fléchées and use them as part of their national regalia. Québécois and Métis communities share the sash as an important part of their distinct cultural heritages, nationalities, attires, histories and resistances. While the traditional view is that the ceinture fléchée is a Québécois invention, other origins have been suggested as well including the traditional fingerwoven Gaelic crios. According to Dorothy K. Burnham who prepared an exhibit on textiles at the National Gallery of Canada in 1981, and published an accompanying catalogue raisonné, this type of finger weaving was learned by residents of New France from Indigenous peoples. With European wool-materials, the syncretism and unification of Northern French and Indigenous finger-weaving techniques resulted in the making of Arrowed Sashes. Arrow Sash is the oldest known sash design; produced by Québécois artisans in XVIIIth century, and later on L'Assomption sash after 1852.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Balanced fabric</span> A type of fabric

A balanced fabric is one in which the warp and the weft are of the same size. In weaving, these are generally called "balanced plain weaves" or just "balanced weaves", while in embroidery the term "even-weave" is more common.

Maya textiles (k’apak) are the clothing and other textile arts of the Maya peoples, indigenous peoples of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Belize. Women have traditionally created textiles in Maya society, and textiles were a significant form of ancient Maya art and religious beliefs. They were considered a prestige good that would distinguish the commoners from the elite. According to Brumfiel, some of the earliest weaving found in Mesoamerica can date back to around 1000-800 B.C.E.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Navajo weaving</span> Textile art by Navajo people of the US

Navajo weaving are textiles produced by Navajo people, who are based near the Four Corners area of the United States. Navajo textiles are highly regarded and have been sought after as trade items for more than 150 years. Commercial production of handwoven blankets and rugs has been an important element of the Navajo economy. As one art historian wrote, "Classic Navajo serapes at their finest equal the delicacy and sophistication of any pre-mechanical loom-woven textile in the world."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Visual arts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas</span>

The visual arts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas encompasses the visual artistic practices of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas from ancient times to the present. These include works from South America and North America, which includes Central America and Greenland. The Siberian Yupiit, who have great cultural overlap with Native Alaskan Yupiit, are also included.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dorothy Liebes</span> American textile designer and weaver

Dorothy Wright Liebes was an American textile designer and weaver renowned for her innovative, custom-designed modern fabrics for architects and interior designers. She was known as "the mother of modern weaving".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile arts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas</span>

The textile arts of the Indigenous peoples of the Americas are decorative, utilitarian, ceremonial, or conceptual artworks made from plant, animal, or synthetic fibers by Indigenous peoples of the Americas.

The Martha Graham Dance Company, founded by Martha Graham in 1926, is both the oldest dance company in the United States and the oldest integrated dance company. The company is critically acclaimed in the artistic world and has been recognized as "one of the great dance companies of the world" by the New York Times and as "one of the seven wonders of the artistic universe" by the Washington Post.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marta Turok</span>

Marta Turok is a Mexican applied anthropologist focusing on socio-economic development, and one of the foremost schools on Mexican folk art. Through research, government work, education and advocacy, she has worked to raise the prestige of Mexican handcrafts and folk art and to help artisans improve their economic status. Her work has been recognized with awards from various governmental and non-governmental agencies.

Irene Hardy Clark is a Navajo weaver. Her matrilineal clan is Tabaahi and her patrilineal clan is Honagha nii. Her technique and style is primarily self-taught, incorporating contemporary and traditional themes.

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Mary Holiday Black was a Navajo basket maker and textile weaver from Halchita, Utah. During the 1970s, in response to a long-term decline in Navajo basketry, Black played a key role in the revival of Navajo basket weaving by experimenting with new designs and techniques, pioneering a new style of Navajo baskets known as "story baskets."

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References

  1. "Irene Emery, ca. 1937, from the Federal Art Project, Photographic Division collection, circa 1920-1965, bulk 1935-1942". Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution. Retrieved 2022-05-31.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 "Irene Emery, 81, Retired Official Of Textile Museum". The Washington Post . May 27, 1981.
  3. King, Mary Elizabeth (January 1983). "Irene Emery, 1900–1981". American Antiquity. 48 (1): 80–82. doi: 10.1017/S0002731600064118 . ISSN   0002-7316. S2CID   164627695.
  4. Anthropology Newsletter. Vol. 22. American Anthropological Association. 1981. p. 3.
  5. Scott, Dolores, ed. (December 8, 1944). "Irene Emery's Broken Ankle Transformed Her into a Weaver". Santa Fe New Mexican. p. 2.
  6. Textile Museum Journal. Vol. 19–26. Textile Museum. 1982. p. 11.
  7. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Pin, Sebastian B. (September 28, 2021). "Irene Emery, deconstructing and defining tradition: dance pioneer, sculptor, textile authority". Textile Conservation. Retrieved 2022-05-31.
  8. "Martha Graham, Booth Theatre, April 14, 1929". Library of Congress. Retrieved 2022-05-31.
  9. "Irene Emery to Tucson For Winter" . Newspapers.com. The Santa Fe New Mexican. November 23, 1941. p. 4. Retrieved 2022-05-31.
  10. McLerran, Jennifer (2022-05-10). A New Deal for Navajo Weaving: Reform and Revival of Diné Textiles. University of Arizona Press. ISBN   978-0-8165-4324-3.
  11. Dransart, Penny (2003-09-02). Earth, Water, Fleece and Fabric: An Ethnography and Archaeology of Andean Camelid Herding. Routledge. ISBN   978-1-134-46637-5.
  12. Fisch, Arline M. (2003). Textile Techniques in Metal: For Jewelers, Textile Artists & Sculptors. Lark Books. p. 86. ISBN   978-1-57990-514-9.
  13. "Irene Emery". John Simon Guggenheim Memorial Foundation.
  14. Herold, Elaine Bluhm (January 1968). "The Primary Structures of Fabrics, an Illustrated Classification. Irene Emery. The Textile Museum, Washington, 1966. xvi + 339 pp., 378 figs., index, bibliography. $20.00". American Antiquity. 33 (1): 109–110. doi:10.2307/277784. ISSN   0002-7316. JSTOR   277784. S2CID   164783095.