History
L'Express was opened in December 1980 by Colette Brossoit and Pierre Villeneuve. Prior to founding the restaurant, both were active in Montreal’s arts community and sought to create an affordable venue with friendly service and a kitchen open until 3 a.m. daily. Villeneuve has stated that he intended for L'Express to feel like a long-established institution, modeled after a 1950s French bistro. [3] Despite neither having restaurant experience prior to opening L'Express, Broissoit served as the chef while Villeneueve managed the front of house in the first years of business. [1]
French-born Joël Chapoulie served as head chef from 1982 to 2012 and is credited with elevating the restaurant’s cuisine, helping establish L'Express as a must-visit destination in Montreal’s dining scene. [3] As of April 2025, Marc-Antoine Lacasse serves as the restaurant's head chef, succeeding Jean-François Vachon. Lacasse has emphasized the importance of preserving the restaurant’s classic dishes and maintaining the successful recipes developed by Chapoulie and Vachon. [2]
The restaurant is open daily from morning until 3:00 a.m., aligning with bar closing hours in Montreal, and serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late-night meals. [3] It is also known for its large selection of affordably-priced wines, having over 11,000 bottles in its cellar. [3]
Recognition
In 2025, the business received a 'Bib Gourmand' designation in Quebec's inaugural Michelin Guide. Per the guide, a Bib Gourmand recognition is awarded to restaurants who offer "exceptionally good food at moderate prices." [4]
Montreal Gazette restaurant critic Lesley Chesterman awarded the restaurant 4 out of 4 stars in her July 2020 review, stating that Montreal would be "unimaginable" without the business. She praised the restaurant’s unwavering consistency, its classic French bistro fare, and its exceptional wine list; while highlighting the charm and professionalism of the long-standing staff. [5]
The New York Times praised the restaurant as "a French bistro in the classic mold", citing L'Express, alongside fellow Montreal restaurants Au Pied de Cochon and Joe Beef as "igniting a restaurant renaissance in [the city] that creatively blends Québécois and French tradition in small, fashionable, unpretentious neighborhood restaurants." [3]
American online food and drink publication Eater has called the restaurant a "venerable Montreal Institution", while stating that it manages to stay away from "hokey French bistro archetypes". [6]
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