Martino da Como

Last updated

Martino de Rossi (or Martino de Rubeis, called Maestro Martino or Martino from Como), was an Italian 15th-century culinary expert who was unequalled in his field at the time and could be considered the Western world's first celebrity chef. He made his career in Italy and was the chef at the Roman palazzo of the papal chamberlain ("camerlengo"), the Patriarch of Aquileia. Martino was applauded by his peers, earning him the epitaph of the prince of cooks. His book Libro de Arte Coquinaria (The Art of Cooking) (c. 1465) is considered a landmark in Italian gastronomic literature and a historical record of the transition from medieval to Renaissance cuisine. [1]

Contents

Biography

Maestro Martino was born around 1430 in Torre, a village in the Blenio Valley, then in the Duchy of Milan, today in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. His early career probably began in northern Italy, as he is referred to variously as both Martino di Como and Martino di Milano, but it seems likely that he spent some time in Naples as many of his recipes show the influence of Spanish cuisine and with the Catalan manuscript Llibre de Sent Soví  [ ca ], Naples having come under lasting Catalan influence after its conquest by Alfonso V of Aragon in 1442. [2]

Between 1460 and 1470 he made his way to Rome in order to cook for Ludovico Trevisan, Cardinal Patriarch of Aquileia, who made a name out of lavish banquets and opulent receptions. Later, his services passed on to Gian Giacomo Trivulzio, a Milanese condottiere (adventurer) and eventually he ended up at the Vatican. [2]

Little more is known about Martino but he was described by his friend Bartolomeo Sacchi (known as Platina) as "Prince of cooks from whom I learned all about cooking" in De honesta voluptate et valetudine (On Honorable Pleasure and Good Health) (1474). Platina openly acknowledges in his book that most of his recipes came from Martino whom he compared to a Greek philosopher in his ability to improvise on a culinary theme. [2]

Bibliography

Martino's book of recipes named the Liber de arte coquinaria is one of the benchmarks of early European gastronomical literature, a precious testimony of kitchen etiquette and recipes in the Middle Ages. The recipes in this tome were highly influential during the 15th century, so much so that Bartolomeo Sacchi (known as il Platina) the humanist philosopher and papal librarian, liberally included large portions of its text into his own work on culinary art entitled De Honesta Voluptae et Valetudine. In fact, almost half of Platina's book is a direct copy of Martino's opus. In acknowledgement of Martino, Platina stated "O immortal gods, which cook could compete with my friend Martino of Como, to a great extent the origin of what is written here?" [3]

The first mention of a vermicelli recipe is in the book De arte Coquinaria per vermicelli e maccaroni siciliani (The Art of Cooking Sicilian Macaroni and Vermicelli), compiled by Martino. In Martino's Libro de arte coquinaria, there are several recipes for vermicelli, which can last two or three years (doi o tre anni) when dried in the sun.

English translations

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Quiche</span> French savoury custard tart

Quiche is a French tart consisting of pastry crust filled with savoury custard and pieces of cheese, meat, seafood or vegetables. A well-known variant is quiche Lorraine, which includes lardons or bacon. Quiche may be served hot, warm or cold.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cookbook</span> Book of recipes with instructions

A cookbook or cookery book is a kitchen reference containing recipes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vermicelli</span> Type of pasta

Vermicelli is a traditional type of pasta round in section similar to spaghetti. In English-speaking regions it is usually thinner than spaghetti, while in Italy it is typically thicker.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fettuccine Alfredo</span> Italian pasta dish with butter and cheese

Fettuccine Alfredo or fettuccine al burro is an Italian pasta dish of fresh fettuccine tossed with butter and parmesan. As the cheese melts, it emulsifies the liquids to form a smooth and rich cheese sauce coating the pasta. The dish is named after Alfredo Di Lelio, who featured the dish at his restaurant in Rome in the early to mid-20th century; the "ceremony" of preparing it tableside was an integral part of the dish.

<i>Apicius</i> Roman-era cookbook

Apicius, also known as De re culinaria or De re coquinaria is a collection of Roman cookery recipes, which may have been compiled in the fifth century CE, or possibly earlier. Its language is in many ways closer to Vulgar than to Classical Latin, with later recipes using Vulgar Latin added to earlier recipes using Classical Latin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gastronomy</span> Study of the relationship between food and culture

Gastronomy is the study of the relationship between food and culture, the art of preparing and serving rich or delicate and appetizing food, the cooking styles of particular regions, and the science of good eating. One who is well versed in gastronomy is called a gastronome, while a gastronomist is one who unites theory and practice in the study of gastronomy. Practical gastronomy is associated with the practice and study of the preparation, production, and service of the various foods and beverages, from countries around the world. Theoretical gastronomy supports practical gastronomy. It is related with a system and process approach, focused on recipes, techniques and cookery books. Food gastronomy is connected with food and beverages and their genesis. Technical gastronomy underpins practical gastronomy, introducing a rigorous approach to evaluation of gastronomic topics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Luigi Ballerini</span> Italian writer, poet, and translator

Luigi Ballerini is an Italian writer, poet, and translator.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bottarga</span> Salted, cured fish roe pouch

Bottarga is a delicacy of salted, cured fish roe pouch, typically of the grey mullet or the bluefin tuna. The best-known version is produced around the Mediterranean; similar foods are the Japanese karasumi and Taiwanese wuyutsu, which is softer, and Korean eoran, from mullet or freshwater drum. It has many names and is prepared in various ways.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crostata</span> Italian baked tart or pie

A crostata is an Italian baked tart or pie. The earliest known use of crostata in its modern sense can be traced to the cookbooks Libro de Arte Coquinaria by Martino da Como, published circa 1465, and Cuoco napolitano, published in the late 15th century containing a recipe titled Crostata de Caso, Pane, etc..

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bartolomeo Platina</span>

Bartolomeo Sacchi, known as il Platina after his birthplace of Piadena, was an Italian Renaissance humanist writer and gastronomist, author of what is considered the first printed cookbook.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bartolomeo Scappi</span> Italian chef

Bartolomeo Scappi was a famous Italian Renaissance chef. He came from Dumenza in Lombardy, according to the inscription on a stone plaque in the church of Luino. In April 1536, he organised a banquet while in the service of Cardinal Lorenzo Campeggio. He served several other cardinals after this, then began to serve pope Pius IV, entering the service of the Vatican kitchen. He continued to work as a chef for the pope Pius V. Scappi is often considered one of the first internationally renowned celebrity chefs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bollito misto</span> Italian stew

Bollito misto is a classic northern Italian stew, most closely resembling the French Pot-au-feu, consisting of various tougher cuts of beef and veal, cotechino, and a whole hen or capon that are gently simmered for 2–3 hours in an aromatic vegetable broth. Bollito and its many regional variations is eaten throughout northern Italy, and is particularly popular in Emilia-Romagna, Piedmont, and Lombardy. The meat is sliced thinly and served with coarse sea salt, mostarda, salsa verde, horseradish, or chutney. The resulting broth is skimmed, strained, and used as a base for soups and risottos.

The first Nordic Cookbook Museum is located in Måltidens hus, Grythyttan, Sweden. The museum was inaugurated on 17 March 2000 and is operated by the Grythyttan School of Hospitality, Culinary Arts & Meal Science.

Esther Bradford Aresty was a cookbook collector and culinary historian who wrote on cooking, cookbooks, cuisine, and etiquette.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stracciatella (soup)</span> Italian soup

Stracciatella, also known as stracciatella alla romana, is an Italian soup consisting of meat broth and small shreds of an egg-based mixture, prepared by drizzling the mixture into boiling broth and stirring. It is popular around Rome in the Lazio region of central Italy. A similar soup, called zanzarelli, was described by Martino da Como in his 15th century manual The Art of Cooking. Other variants exist.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chestnut pie</span>

Chestnut pie is a pie prepared with chestnuts as a primary ingredient. It is a part of the cuisine of Italy, where it has been documented as dating back to the 15th century. It is also a part of the cuisine of the Southern United States. Shelled whole or chopped chestnuts may be used, which may be boiled or roasted. A chestnut purée may also be used. It may be prepared as a savory or sweet pie.

<i>De honesta voluptate et valetudine</i> First printed cookbook by Bartolomeo Platina

De honesta voluptate et valetudine was the first cookbook ever printed. Written c. 1465 by Bartolomeo Platina, it first appeared between 1470 and 1475 in Rome, and in 1475 in Venice. Written in Latin, it was largely a translation of recipes by Martino da Como from his Libro de Arte Coquinaria. The book was frequently reprinted over the next century, and translated into French, German and Italian.

María Luisa García Sánchez was a Spanish Asturian chef, cookbook author and leading expert on Asturian cuisine and the culinary traditions of Asturias. Her debut Asturian cookbook, El arte de cocinar, first published in 1970, sold half a million copies and became ubiquitous in home kitchens throughout Asturias. It remains the best selling Asturian cookbook in history. She published a second part of her landmark cookbook, El arte de cocinar in 1982. Her other best known works include Platos típicos de Asturias, released in 1971, and her collaboration with other chefs on El libro de oro de la cocina española, an eight volume encyclopedia of Spanish cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josefina Velázquez de León</span>

Josefina Velázquez de León was a Mexican cook, researcher, writer and teacher. Velázquez de León was a pioneer of Mexican gastronomy and an entrepreneur of Mexican cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Älplermagronen</span> Swiss dish of pasta and potatoes, with cream, cheese and onions

Älplermagronen is a dish from the Alpine regions of Switzerland, consisting of pasta, potatoes, cream, cheese, and onions. The name is made up of "Älpler" as a designation for the Alpine herder and "Magronen", which was taken as a loan word from the Italian word maccheroni.

References

  1. w:it:Maestro Martino da Como
  2. 1 2 3 Jenkins, Nancy Harmon (2007). "Two Ways of Looking at Maestro Martino". Gastronomica . University of California Press. 7 (2): 97–103. doi:10.1525/gfc.2007.7.2.97.
  3. Fletcher, N., (2004), 'Charlemagne's Tablecloth: a piquant history of feasting', p.134