Middle Triple Peak

Middle Triple Peak
Middle Triple Peak Location in Alaska
Interactive map of Middle Triple Peak
Highest point
Elevation	8,835 ft (2,693 m)
Prominence	1,800 ft (550 m)
Coordinates	62°23′41″N152°46′05″W / 62.39472°N 152.76806°W / 62.39472; -152.76806
Geography
Location	Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska, United States
Parent range	Kichatna Mountains, Alaska Range
Climbing
First ascent	1976 by R McLean, C Porter

Middle Triple Peak is the second highest peak in the Kichatna Mountains, a subrange of the Alaska Range in Alaska, United States. It is a striking rock tower, with immense, sheer walls on the east and west sides.

Its East Buttress route (roughly 3,600 feet/1,100 m high) is a classic hard rock climbing route, although the first pitch was destroyed by rockfall (discovered by Nancy Hansen in 2012) and the route has not been climbed since. ^[1] Due to the remoteness of the range and the usually terrible weather, this peak has seen only a few ascents. The first ascent of the peak was in 1976 by Russell McLean and Charlie Porter (fresh from the first solo of the Cassin Ridge on Denali).

Notable ascents and routes

• 1976 West Face. Charlie Porter and Russell McLean, June 21 to July 1, 1976. ^[2]
• 1976 Illusory Ridge (north ridge) (NCCS V, F8 A3). David Black, Andrew Embick, Michael Graber, Alan Long. Summit reached July 10, 1976. ^[3]
• 1977 East Buttress Andy Embick, Mike Graber, Al Long and George Schunk, June 2 to June 9, 1997. ^[4]
• 1997 Ride the Lightning, VI 5.10 A4 WI3. Dan Osman, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith ^[5]

Further reading

• Wood, Michael; Coombs, Colby (2001). Alaska: a climbing guide. The Mountaineers.

References

1. "Revising the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". Climbing.com. Retrieved March 18, 2018.
2. McLean, Russell (1977). "Middle Triple Peak". American Alpine Journal . 21 (51). New York: American Alpine Club: 102–105. ISBN   978-0-930410-31-5.
3. Long, Alan (1977). "A Trip to the Kichatnas". American Alpine Journal . 21 (51). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 106–113. ISBN   978-0-930410-31-5.
4. American Alpine Journal 1978 http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2858419/Middle-Triple-Peak-Kichatna-Spires-A-Climbing-History
5. Beckwith, Christian (1998). American Alpine Journal: vol 40, 1998, issue 72. New York City, USA: American Alpine Club. ISBN   0-930410-78-5.

External links

• Middle Triple Peak on Topozone
• A story about climbing the East Buttress