The term 'Mundat Forest' refers to two forests that overlie the modern border between Germany and France near Wissembourg, Alsace. The Upper Mundat Forest is a small part of the mountainous Palatinate Forest. The smaller Lower Mundat Forest forms a fraction of the Bienwald in the Upper Rhine valley.
In the Middle Ages the forests were part of the Wissembourg Mundat, the privileged possessions of the abbey of Weissenburg (now Wissembourg), whose abbot was a territorial magnate, a Prince-abbot of the Holy Roman Empire. The unusual term, Mundat, refers to the immunity (emunitas [1] ) granted by the royal conveyor of property, [2] which rendered the abbey immune from obligations of service for the grant of vast privileged domains situated within the diocese of Speyer. [3]
The Upper Mundat Forest is an area of roughly 40 square kilometres (15 sq mi) that stretches north and west from the Alsatian town Wissembourg. Its highest point, at 561 metres (1,841 ft), is the Hohe Derst near the hamlet of Reisdorf. The area includes the remains of Guttenberg Castle, c. 1150. It is part of the cross-border UNESCO biosphere reserve Pfälzerwald–Vosges du Nord.
The Lower Mundat Forest is an area of roughly 20 square kilometres (8 sq mi), east of Wissembourg in the plain formed by the Rhine rift. Geographically it is part of the Bienwald. Its highest elevation is 141 metres (463 ft).
The Upper and Lower Mundat Forests together make up the still-forested part of the Mundat, the former possessions of the 7th–16th century monastery and principality at Wissembourg. To distinguish it from the similar but unrelated Mundat at Rouffach further south, it is also known as the Wissembourg Mundat or, confusingly, the Lower Mundat – the Rouffach Mundat being the Upper Mundat.
Wissembourg was initially a monastery (Weissenburg Abbey), founded around 630–660 [4] and part of the Benedictine order from the 8th century. In 760, Charlemagne's father Pepin the Short granted immunity from services to the monastery and its possessions in field and forest. [5] These possessions, the Mundat, had dimensions of about 20 km × 16 km (12 mi × 10 mi) and included the villages of Altenstadt, [6] Schleithal, Oberseebach, Steinseltz, Oberhoffen, Cleebourg, Rott, Weiler, [6] St. Germanshof, Bobenthal, Schlettenbach, Finsternheim, Bärenbach, Schweigen and Rechtenbach, Schweighofen, Kapsweyer, and Steinfeld. [7] The Mundat Forest was known in Carolingian times as the Sylva immunita. [8] In 974 the monastery, along with the Mundat, obtained the independent status of an Imperial abbey headed by a prince-abbot. [5]
In 1524 the monastery was heavily encumbered, so Pope Clement VII transformed it into a collegiate church, [5] [7] and from 1546 it stood under the authority of Speyer. [5]
The forested areas remained the property of the church until they were secularized after the French Revolution.
After Napoleon, the border between France and the Palatinate (then under Bavarian rule) was fixed by the Treaty of Paris in 1815. With the exception of Wissembourg, all the French territories north of the river Lauter fell to the Kingdom of Bavaria. Since then the border has remained unchanged in this area, except for Alsace twice being German, between 1871 and 1919 and again de facto between 1941 and 1944.
There was, however, an anomaly concerning land ownership. As a result of the treaty the town of Wissembourg had 30 square kilometres (12 sq mi) of forest on the German side of the border, in co-ownership with the Bavarian state. It also owned 20 square kilometres (8 sq mi) on the French side, jointly with the French state. This situation was rectified through land exchanges in the 1930s, in part through a treaty signed in 1959 that became effective retroactively as of 1938. [9]
In 1946, the administration of the French zone of occupied Germany made an area of 7 square kilometres (2.7 sq mi) in the German part of the Upper Mundat Forest administratively a part of France, in order to guarantee the water catchment area for Wissembourg. [10] [11] This was formalized as part of Order No. 212, issued by the French Commander-in-Chief in Germany Koenig in April 1949. The area was put under exclusive French administration, preserving only German territorial sovereignty over the area. [11] Initially the area included the hamlet St. Germanshof, [12] but a correction in 1949 ensured that only uninhabited land was affected. [13] A formal annexation, transferring also the territorial sovereignty to France, seems to have been planned originally, but it was never executed. [14]
Negotiations about the status of the area led to its inclusion in a 1962 treaty that revisited several border issues between the two countries. The treaty would have made the entire area French territory, but as it was not ratified by the German parliament it did not become operative. [15] [16]
In 1984 the final agreement was reached, essentially trading administrative sovereignty against private ownership of the same area. In an exchange of diplomatic notes, the French government agreed to repeal the relevant clause of Order 212. In return, the West German government committed itself to transfer to France the land ownership over the public land in the area. France also obtained perpetual wood, hunting and water rights for the area as well as compensatory land for the castle, which it did not get. [11] Once France, the United States and the United Kingdom had agreed, the Bundestag was able to repeal the clause, which it did effective in February 1986. [17] The transfer of land ownership to France according to the German regulations was completed in 1990.[ citation needed ]
While the attempts to normalize the situation were ongoing, there was vocal protest by a number of West German citizens who rejected any solution that acknowledged the French claim. In the 1960s one objector pressed criminal charges, a retired appellate court president drew public comparisons to the Soviet occupation zone, and a law journal published criticism. [18] In 1988 a retired notary requested that a local court appoint him to represent the interests of the German Reich against the Federal Republic of Germany. [14] He argued that since the area in question was under French administration when the West German state was founded in 1949, the Weimar constitution was still in force in it. [10] [14] The court did appoint the ex-notary, but this decision was reversed half a year later by the next higher court, which found that there is no reason to doubt that the area is part of the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate. [14]
In 2007 and 2008, German courts decided that French citizens leasing hunting rights in the northern part of the Upper Mundat Forest from the French state must follow German regulations when feeding deer. [19] [20]
The Palatinate, or the Rhenish Palatinate (Rheinpfalz), is a historical region of Germany. Prior to World War 2, it was known as Rhenish Bavaria; as a state of the Holy Roman Empire, it was known as the Lower Palatinate (Unterpfalz), which designated only the western part of the Electorate of the Palatinate, as opposed to the Upper Palatinate (Oberpfalz). It occupies roughly the southernmost quarter of the German federal state of Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz), covering an area of 2,105 square miles (5,450 km2) with about 1.4 million inhabitants. Its residents are known as Palatines (Pfälzer).
Bas-Rhin is a department in Alsace which is a part of the Grand Est super-region of France. The name means 'Lower Rhine', referring to its lower altitude among the two French Rhine departments: it is downstream of the Haut-Rhin department. Note that both belong to the European Upper Rhine region. It is, with the Haut-Rhin, one of the two departments of the traditional Alsace region which until 1871, also included the area now known as the Territoire de Belfort. The more populous and densely populated of the pair, it had 1,148,073 inhabitants in 2020. The prefecture is based in Strasbourg. The INSEE and Post Code is 67.
Vosges is a department in the Grand Est region, Northeastern France. It covers part of the Vosges mountain range, after which it is named. Vosges consists of three arrondissements, 17 cantons and 507 communes, including Domrémy-la-Pucelle, where Joan of Arc was born. In 2019, it had a population of 364,499 with an area of 5,874 km2 ; its prefecture is Épinal.
Wissembourg is a commune in the Bas-Rhin department in Grand Est in northeastern France.
The Upper Rhine is the section of the Rhine between Basel in Switzerland and Bingen in Germany, surrounded by the Upper Rhine Plain. The river is marked by Rhine-kilometres 170 to 529.
Alsace–Lorraine, now called Alsace–Moselle, is a historical region located in modern day France. It was created in 1871 by the German Empire after it had seized the region from the Second French Empire in the Franco-Prussian War with the Treaty of Frankfurt. Alsace–Lorraine reverted to French ownership in 1918 as part of the Treaty of Versailles and Germany's defeat in World War I.
The Vosges are a range of low mountains in Eastern France, near its border with Germany. Together with the Palatine Forest to the north on the German side of the border, they form a single geomorphological unit and low mountain range of around 8,000 km2 (3,100 sq mi) in area. It runs in a north-northeast direction from the Burgundian Gate to the Börrstadt Basin, and forms the western boundary of the Upper Rhine Plain.
Lauterbourg is a commune and Bas-Rhin department in the Grand Est administrative region in north-eastern France. Situated on the German border and not far from the German city of Karlsruhe, it is the easternmost commune in Metropolitan France. The German town across the border is Neulauterburg.
Saint-Hippolyte is a commune in the Haut-Rhin department in Grand Est in north-eastern France.
The Bienwald is a large forested area in the southern Pfalz region of Germany near the towns of Kandel and Wörth am Rhein. The western edge defines the eastern extent of the Wissembourg Gap, a corridor of open terrain between the Bienwald and the hills of the Palatine Forest. In the northwest, the forest is bounded by the so-called "Cattle Line", running from Schweighofen to Kandel. In the north, the forest reaches as far as Hatzenbühl and Rheinzabern. The eastern boundary largely runs along the bank of the Rhine from Jockgrim to Hagenbach and Berg (Pfalz). The southern boundary follows the valley of the Lauter along the border of France and Germany. The bulk of the forest belongs to the municipality of Wörth am Rhein. At its greatest extent, the Bienwald is approximately 17 kilometres (11 mi) wide along its east–west axis and 11 km (6.8 mi) from north to south. The forest has an area of some 163 km2 (63 sq mi). Approximately one-third of the forest is deciduous woodland with the remainder coniferous. The forest has an elevation of 100 metres (330 ft) above sea level by the Rhine, and rises to 150 m (490 ft) above sea level in its western extremities.
The Wissembourg Gap is a corridor of open terrain, approximately six kilometres wide, between the hills of the Palatinate Forest to the west and the Bienwald forest to the east. It marks the border between the Palatinate to the north and Alsace to the south, and by extension between Germany and France. The Gap is dominated by the French town of Wissembourg, from which it takes its name. The average altitude of the land in the corridor rises from 150 metres by the Bienwald to 250 metres by the Palatinate Forest.
The Lauter is a river in Germany and France.
Rouffach is a commune in the Haut-Rhin department in Grand Est in north-eastern France.
Bouxwiller is a commune in the Bas-Rhin department, Alsace, Grand Est, northeastern France. Likely meaning "Bucco's land", Bouxwiller is the capital of the Bouxwiller canton and is located within the Saverne arrondissement about 34 kilometres (21 mi) northwest of Strasbourg.
St. Peter and St. Paul's Church of Wissembourg is frequently, but incorrectly, referred to as the second largest Gothic church of Alsace after Strasbourg Cathedral. However, the building, with its interior ground surface area of 1,320 square metres (14,200 sq ft) most probably is the second largest Gothic church in Bas-Rhin which is one of the two departments of the Alsace region. The former abbey church (abbatiale) of Wissembourg's famous Benedictine abbey now serves as the main Roman Catholic parish church of the town.
The Frankenweide is a hill region in the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate. It forms the central part of the Palatine Forest in the Palatinate region.
Weissemburg Abbey, also Wissembourg Abbey, is a former Benedictine abbey in Wissembourg in Alsace, France.
The Pays de Bitche is a natural region located in the Moselle department of the Grand Est region of France. It corresponds to the present French part of the former principality of Zweibrücken-Bitsch and to the part of the Northern Vosges that lies within Lorraine.
The Outre-Forêt is a natural region which is located in the very north of Alsace, bordering on Rhineland-Palatinate. Outre-Forêt means in French beyond the forest, beyond the Haguenau Forest. To the north, it is bounded by the Bienwald as well as by the Lauter. To the east, it is bounded by the Rhine and the Petit Ried. To the west, it is bounded by the Northern Vosges and the River Falkensteinerbach. As a frontier zone off the beaten tracks, the Outre-Forêt has managed to keep its traditions; numerous timbered houses can be admired, pottery is well developed. Far away from the traditional Alsatian vineyards, grapes are grown here.
The Hochwald is a hill ridge, up to 508 metres high, in the North Vosges in the French département of Bas-Rhin near Wissembourg. Topographically it represents the northernmost part of the Vosges mountains. To the north is the valley of the Lauter, which is both the border between France and Germany and also the boundary between the (North) Vosges and the Palatine Forest.