Shantung (fabric)

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A tailored dress in pink shantung, trimmed with black shantung, 1912. La Mode Practique 1912 pink suit.jpg
A tailored dress in pink shantung, trimmed with black shantung, 1912.

Shantung is a type of silk plain weave fabric historically from the Chinese province of Shandong. [1] [2] It is similar to dupioni, but is slightly thinner and less irregular. Shantung is often used for bridal gowns. [3]

Contents

Structure

Shantung is a fabric with a ribbed surface that is produced by long weft yarns. The surface may vary coarse to fine according to the used yarn type. [4] The thicker yarns were used in the weft. Yarns in shantung may have knots, and bumps (slub effects), etc. [2]

Types

Originally it was made of silk only, but later locals used rayon and cotton Shantung also. [2]

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Antique satin, also called satin-back shantung, is any five- or eight-harness (shaft) satin weave that uses slubbed or unevenly spun yarns in the weft (filling). It is reversible in that one side is satin and the other is shantung. It is used for simulating 17th and 18th century silks, and clothing such as blouses, lingerie and evening wear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Moire (fabric)</span> Fabric with a wavy appearance

Moire, less often moiré, is a textile with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly from silk, but also wool, cotton and rayon. The watered appearance is usually created by the finishing technique called calendering. Moiré effects are also achieved by certain weaves, such as varying the tension in the warp and weft of the weave. Silk treated in this way is sometimes called watered silk.

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Dupioni is a plain weave silk fabric, produced using fine yarn in the warp and uneven yarn reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface and a crisp hand. It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub count. In Japan a cocoon containing more than one silkworm is called tamamayu.

Gazar is a silk or wool plain weave fabric made with high-twist double yarns woven as one. Gazar has a crisp hand and a smooth texture.

Eolienne is a lightweight fabric with a ribbed (corded) surface. Generally made by combining silk and cotton or silk and worsted warp and weft, it is similar to poplin but of an even lighter weight.

Bourette is a silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns made of Bourette fibers. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface.

Momie cloth is a pebble-surfaced crêpe structure made of any natural or synthetic yarns. Momie crepe is a light weight material made of cotton.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Abrawan</span> A kind of fine mulmul cloth from Dacca

Abrawan (āb-i-ravān) was a kind of muslin cloth produced in Indian subcontinent. The Abrawan was characterized by the nature of the fabric that was like flowing water.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Faille</span> Type of corded fabric

Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.

Tissue is a thin, transparent, and lightweight material. Tissue fabric is a suitable material for designing various types of garments, including saris. Tissue is characterized by the use of metallic yarns for decorative purposes. The tissue sari is composed of silk threads in the warp and zari in the weft.

References

  1. Society of Arts (Great Britain) (1894). Journal of the Society of Arts, Volume 42. Great Britain: The Society. p. 777.
  2. 1 2 3 Wingate, Isabel Barnum (1979). Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Fairchild Publications. p. 547. ISBN   978-0-87005-198-2.
  3. Khalje, Susan (1997). Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear . Krause Publications Craft. pp.  24–25. ISBN   9780801987571.
  4. Kadolph (2009). Textiles. Pearson Education. p. 235. ISBN   978-81-317-2570-2.