Shantung (fabric)

Last updated
A tailored dress in pink shantung, trimmed with black shantung, 1912. La Mode Practique 1912 pink suit.jpg
A tailored dress in pink shantung, trimmed with black shantung, 1912.

Shantung is a type of silk plain weave fabric historically from the province of Shandong. [1] [2] It is similar to Dupioni, but is slightly thinner and less irregular. Shantung is often used for bridal gowns. [3]

Contents

Structure

Shantung is a fabric with a ribbed surface that is produced by long weft yarns. The surface may vary coarse to fine according to the used yarn type. [4] The thicker yarns were used in the weft. Yarns in shantung may have knots, and bumps (slub effects), etc. [2]

Types

Originally it was made of silk only, but later locals used rayon and cotton Shantung also. [2]

Related Research Articles

Velvet Type of pile fabric

Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word velvety means "smooth like velvet". Velvet can be made from either synthetic or natural fibers.

Satin Type of fabric weave woven with a long-float binding the warp or weft yarns

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

Poplin Strong, plain-weave fabric with a fine cross-rib

Poplin, also called tabinet, is a fine, but thick, wool, cotton or silk fabric that has a horizontal warp and a vertical weft. Nowadays, it is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically gives a corded surface.

Ikat is a dyeing technique originated from Indonesia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.

Piqué (weaving) A weave that forms fabric structure with a raised rib, often in a diamond or honeycomb pattern.

Piqué, or marcella, refers to a weaving style, normally used with cotton yarn, which is characterized by raised parallel cords or geometric designs in the fabric. Piqué fabrics vary from semi-sheer dimity to heavy weight waffle cloth. Twilled cotton and corded cotton are close relatives.

Crêpe (textile) Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelt crepe or crape is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is largely based on the conversion of fibre into yarn, then yarn into fabric. These are then dyed or printed, fabricated into cloth which is then converted into useful goods such as clothing, household items, upholstery and various industrial products.

Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but made with spun yarns instead of filament.

Ninon A lightweight, transparent sheer fabric

Ninon is a lightweight, sheer fabric made with plain or leno weaving, it is a suitable material for curtains, evening wear and lingerie. Ninon is made with variety of filament yarns such as polyester, silk, rayon or nylon.

In the context of materials, stuff can refer to any manufactured material. This is illustrated from a quote by Sir Francis Bacon in his 1658 publication New Atlantis: "Wee have also diverse Mechanicall Arts, which you have not; And Stuffes made by them; As Papers, Linnen, Silks, Tissues; dainty Works of Feathers of wonderfull Lustre; excellent Dies, and many others." In Coventry, those completing seven-year apprenticeships with stuff merchants were entitled to become freemen of the city.

Silk in the Indian subcontinent An overview about silk in the India subcontinent

Silk in the Indian subcontinent is a luxury good. In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

Brocade Textile produced by brocading; in general, any richly figured fabric, often incorporating metal thread

Brocade is a class of richly decorative shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word "broccoli", comes from Italian broccato meaning "embossed cloth", originally past participle of the verb broccare "to stud, set with nails", from brocco, "small nail", from Latin broccus, "projecting, pointed".

Antique satin, also called satin-back shantung, refers to any five or eight harness (shaft) satin weave that uses slubbed or unevenly spun yarns in the weft (filling). It is reversible in that one side is satin and the other is shantung. It is used for simulating 17th and 18th century silks and clothing such as blouses, lingerie and evening wear.

Moire (fabric) Fabric with a wavy appearance

Moire, less often moiré, is a textile with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly from silk, but also wool, cotton and rayon. The watered appearance is usually created by the finishing technique called calendering. Moire effects are also achieved by certain weaves, such as varying the tension in the warp and weft of the weave. Silk treated in this way is sometimes called watered silk.

Dupioni A plain weave crisp type of silk fabric

Dupioni is a plain weave crisp type of silk fabric, produced by using fine thread in the warp and uneven thread reeled from two or more entangled cocoons in the weft. This creates tightly-woven yardage with a highly-lustrous surface. It is similar to shantung, but slightly thicker, heavier, and with a greater slub count.

Gazar is a silk or wool plain weave fabric made with high-twist double yarns woven as one. Gazar has a crisp hand and a smooth texture.

Eolienne is a lightweight fabric with a ribbed (corded) surface. Generally made by combining silk and cotton or silk and worsted warp and weft, it is similar to poplin but of an even lighter weight.

Bourette is a shoddy silk fabric with bumps often blended with other yarns. It has a rough surface incorporating multicolored threads and knots of spun silk. The fabric is made with silk bourette and wool or cotton yarn. Bourette is a lightweight single cloth with a rough, knotty, and uneven surface. The name "Bourette" is from its constituting fiber, which is too short of producing schappe. There are two grades of silk yarn, schappe and bourette.

Momie cloth is a pebble-surfaced crêpe structure made of any natural or synthetic yarns. Momie crepe is a light weight material made of cotton.

References

  1. Society of Arts (Great Britain) (1894). Journal of the Society of Arts, Volume 42. Great Britain: The Society. p. 777.
  2. 1 2 3 Wingate, Isabel Barnum (1979). Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Fairchild Publications. p. 547. ISBN   978-0-87005-198-2.
  3. Khalje, Susan (1997). Bridal Couture: Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear . Krause Publications Craft. pp.  24–25. ISBN   9780801987571.
  4. Kadolph (2009). Textiles. Pearson Education. p. 235. ISBN   978-81-317-2570-2.