Sharpening is the process of creating or refining a sharp edge of appropriate shape on a tool or implement designed for cutting. Sharpening is done by removing material from the implement with an abrasive substance harder than the material of the implement, followed sometimes by processes to polish the sharp surface to increase smoothness and correct small mechanical deformations without removing significant metal. The process creates a bevel - the angled surface that meets at the cutting edge. Ideally, the two sides of the edge meet at a precise mathematical point (the apex), though in practice, a microscopic radius always remains. Sharpening is distinct from honing or steeling, which are maintenance steps used to realign an edge that has rolled over during use, though the terms are often used interchangeably in casual conversation. [1]
Sharpening generally involves the use of an abrasive material that is harder than the tool steel being sharpened. The hardness of sharpening materials is often measured on the Mohs scale. Tools can be categorized by their method of operation: abrasive stones, mechanical grinders, and honing devices. [2]
Also known as whetstones, these are blocks of abrasive material used for manual sharpening. They require a lubricant—typically oil or water—to reduce friction and flush away "swarf" (metal filings) to prevent the stone's pores from clogging.
While sharpening removes metal to create a new edge, honing tools are often used to maintain an existing edge.
The angle of the cutting edge determines the balance between sharpness (cutting ability) and durability (resistance to chipping or rolling). This angle is typically measured as the "included angle" (the total angle of the wedge) or "degrees per side" (dps). A lower angle creates a thinner, sharper edge that cuts with less resistance but is more fragile; a higher angle creates a thicker, more durable edge that is less prone to damage but requires more force to cut. [5]
Different tools require specific geometries based on their intended material targets:
Some tools utilize a "double bevel" or "micro-bevel" geometry. In this configuration, the primary grind of the blade is relatively acute (e.g., 15°) to reduce drag, while the actual cutting edge is honed to a steeper angle (e.g., 20°). This creates a durable edge apex while maintaining the slicing performance of a thinner blade.
Many implements have a cutting edge which is essentially straight. Knives, chisels, straight-edge razors, and scissors are examples. Sharpening a straight edge is relatively simple, and can be done by using either a simple sharpening device which is very easy to use but will not produce the best possible results, or by the skillful use of oil or water grinding stones, grinding wheels, hones, etc.
Sharpening these implements can be expressed as the creation of two intersecting planes which produce an edge that is sharp enough to cut through the target material. For example, the blade of a steel knife is ground to a bevel so that the two sides of the blade meet. This edge is then refined by honing until the blade is capable of cutting.
The extent to which this honing takes place depends upon the intended use of the tool or implement. For some applications an edge with a certain amount of jaggedness is acceptable, or even desirable, as this creates a serrated cutting edge. In other applications the edge must be as smooth as possible.
Sharpening straight edges (knives, chisels, etc.) by hand can be divided into phases. First the edge is sharpened with an abrasive sharpening stone, or a succession of increasingly fine stones, which shape the blade by removing material; the finer the abrasive the finer the finish. Then the edge may be stropped by polishing the edge with a fine abrasive such as rouge or tripoli on a piece of stout leather or canvas. The edge may be steeled or honed by passing the blade against a hard metal or ceramic "steel" which plastically deforms and straightens the material of the blade's edge which may have been rolled over irregularly in use, but not enough to need complete rehappening.
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Different techniques are required where the edges are not straight. Special tools and skills are more often required, and sharpening is often best done by a specialist rather than the user of the tool.
Examples include:
A number of blade sharpeners operate a mobile business, [6] [7] traveling to their customers locations, often in highly equipped vehicles.
Less common in developed nations. Still very common in many areas of the world, skilled craftsmen provide a roadside sharpening service for kitchen knives and cleavers, scissors, and sometimes other blades.
They commonly have a 'round' which may include trades such as butchers or barbers some of whom, in addition to using the service for their own tools may act as 'agents' collecting instruments for the general public.
Sharpeners may also have regular 'stops' in busy streets or residential areas, calling out to people from their homes or businesses using musical instruments such as handbells or pipes.
The sharpener usually has some sort of mobile work bench with a grinding wheel which may be powered by hand, using a bicycle mechanism or electric motor.
As well as coarse grinding, sharpeners also typically 'dress' the cutting edges with a sharpening stone or honing steel, secure or replace loose handles and generally offer advice and assistance regarding best practice. Some also sell knives and related products.
Modern mobile sharpening services will travel in a Van or Bus and have a workshop inside that allows them to service the edges of different various tools and instruments. There are two major forms of sharpening or sharpeners where you sharpen as a hobbyist and "make it work" or you are a craftsman that strives to learn different styles of sharpening and how they perform under different applications.
John Pool - Craftsman Sharpener and Artisan of Shears and Cutlery - http://www .Battlebornbladesharpening.com