Tamotsu Nakamura (also known as Tom Nakamura), FRGS, (born 1934) is a Japanese explorer, alpinist, photographer and author. Since 1990, he has explored the mountainous areas between the Himalayas and the Sichuan basin; which he documents in photographs. [1] [2] He is a leading authority on the Alps of Tibet, the south-eastern sector of the Tibetan high plateau.
Nakamura was born in Tokyo. After studying business administration at Hitotsubashi University, he worked for Ishikawajima-Harima Heavy Industries Co., Ltd, ultimately as Managing Director of IHI Hong Kong Ltd.
Nakamura is married and has two children. After stays in Pakistan (1967–1971), Mexico (1975–1982), New-Zealand (1984–1989) and Hong Kong (1989–1994), he returned to Tokyo.
His mountaineering career started in 1953 as a member of the Hitotsubashi University Mountaineering Club, which climbed in Japanese mountain areas. He made the second ascent of Pucajirca Norte [3] (6046 m, Cordillera Blanca/Peru) in 1961, followed by three first ascents and various second ascents in Cordillera Apolobamba and Pupuya in Bolivia.
Since 1990 Nakamura has conducted more than 40 journeys exploring mountain areas of the south-eastern part of the Tibetan high plateau (status as of 2020) that he termed the Alps of Tibet. The "Alps" cover the Nyainqêntanglha Mountains, Kangri Garpo range and the Hengduan Mountains including the Deep Gorge Country structured by three parallel rivers, the Salween, Mekong and Yangtze. Nakamura identified and photographed hundreds of peaks for the first time, capturing photos of more than 200 unclimbed, over-6000m peaks still unclimbed. [4] Nakamura is regarded worldwide as an authority on the area. [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] He has published numerous articles in mountaineering journals such as Alpine Journal , [17] American Alpine Journal , Himalayan Journal , Climbing, Altitudes, Vertical and Japanese Alpine News. [18] [19]
He has been recognized by the Royal Geographical Society, London or the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – UIAA for his field exploration in Eastern Tibet. The Alpinist named him Steward of Unclimbed Peaks. [20]
Nakamura is editor of Japanese Alpine News. [21] He is author of several books about the Alps of Tibet that have been published in Japanese, English and German.
Saser Kangri is a mountain in India. It is the highest peak in the Saser Muztagh, the easternmost subrange of the Karakoram range. Sasir Kangri is located within Ladakh.
Kamet is the second-highest mountain in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India, after Nanda Devi. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand. Its appearance resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks.
Gangkhar Puensum is the highest mountain in Bhutan and the highest unclimbed mountain in the world, with an elevation of 7,570 metres (24,836 ft) and a prominence of 2,995 metres (9,826 ft). In Dzongkha language, its name means "White Peak of the Three Spiritual Brothers".
Mount Gongga, also known as Minya Konka and colloquially as "The King of Sichuan Mountains", is the highest mountain in Sichuan province, China. It has an elevation of 7,556 m (24,790 ft) above sea level. This makes it the third highest peak in the world outside of the Himalaya/Karakoram range, after Tirich Mir and Kongur Tagh, and the easternmost 7,000-metre (23,000 ft) peak in the world. It is situated in the Daxue Shan mountain range, between Dadu River and Yalong River, and is part of the Hengduan mountainous region. From it comes the Hailuogou glacier.
Douglas Keith Scott was an English mountaineer, noted for being on the team that made the first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. In receiving one of mountaineering's highest honours, the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award, his personal style and climbs were described as "visionary".
An unclimbed mountain is a mountain peak that has yet to be climbed to the top. Determining which unclimbed peak is highest is often a matter of controversy. In some parts of the world, surveying and mapping are still unreliable. There are no comprehensive records of the routes of explorers, mountaineers, and local inhabitants. In some cases, even modern ascents by larger parties have been poorly documented and, with no universally recognized listing, the best that can be achieved in determining the world's highest unclimbed peaks is somewhat speculative. Most sources indicate that Gangkhar Puensum on the Bhutan–China border is the tallest mountain in the world that has yet to be fully summited. Gangkhar Puensum has been off limits to climbers since 1994 when Bhutan prohibited all mountaineering above 6,000 m (20,000 ft) due to spiritual/religious beliefs.
Annapurna III is a mountain in the Annapurna mountain range located in Nepal, and at 7,555 metres (24,787 ft) tall, it is the 42nd highest mountain in the world and the third highest peak of the Annapurna mountain range.
Namcha Barwa or Namchabarwa is a mountain peak lying in Tibet in the region of Pemako. The traditional definition of the Himalaya extending from the Indus River to the Brahmaputra would make it the eastern anchor of the entire mountain chain, and it is the highest peak of its own section as well as Earth's easternmost peak over 7,600 metres (24,900 ft). It lies in the Nyingchi Prefecture of Tibet. It is the highest peak in the 180 km long Namcha Barwa Himal range, which is considered the easternmost syntaxis/section of the Himalaya in southeastern Tibet and northeastern India where the Himalaya are said to end, although high ranges actually continue another 300 km to the east.
Harish Kapadia is a Himalayan mountaineer, author and long-time editor of the Himalayan Journal from India. He has been awarded the Patron's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society, the Life Time Achievement Award for Adventure by the President of India and the King Albert Mountain Award presented by The King Albert I Memorial Foundation. He has written numerous books and articles on the Indian Himalayas. Harish was awarded the Piolets d'Or Asia Life Time Achievement Award in 2017 for his mountaineering and exploratory endeavors.
The Piolets d'Or is an annual mountaineering and alpine climbing award organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), and previously with co-founder Montagnes Magazine, since its founding in 1992. Golden ice axes are presented to the annual winners at a weekend awards festival based on their achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor and is referred to as the "Oscars of mountaineering".
Wojciech Kurtyka is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges. He lived in Wrocław up to 1974 when he moved to Kraków. He graduated as engineer in electronics. In 1985 he climbed the "Shining Wall," the west face of Gasherbrum IV, which Climbing magazine declared to be the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century. In 2016, he received the Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement in mountaineering.
Michael Fowler is a British rock climber, ice climber, mountaineer and climbing author. He is internationally noted for his alpine climbing, and was awarded the Piolet d'Or three times, with Paul Ramsden, in 2003, 2013, and 2016, for alpine-style first ascents of faces in the Himalayas. Fowler was one of the first British rock climbers to free an E6-graded traditional rock climbing route, and the first ice climber to free a consensus grade VI mixed Scottish winter route.
Bairiga or Ruoni is the highest peak of Kangri Garpo Range of southeast Tibet Autonomous Region. The region has only recently been explored and before 2009, none of its 47 peaks above 6,000 m had been climbed. Bairiga / Ruoni, which remains unclimbed itself, was photographed for the first time in 1933 by the botanist explorer Frank Kingdon-Ward, at which time it was known as Choembo.
Ueli Steck was a Swiss rock climber and alpinist. He was the first to climb Annapurna solo via its South Face, and set speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. He won two Piolet d'Or awards, in 2009 and 2014. Having previously summitted Mount Everest, Steck died on 30 April 2017, after a fall during an acclimatizing climb for an attempt on the Hornbein route on the West Ridge of Everest without supplemental oxygen.
Trevor Hyam Braham was a British Himalayan explorer and mountaineer, mostly active during the mid-20th century.
Kazuya Hiraide from Fujimi, Nagano Prefecture, is a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman. Hiraide has won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on three occasions.
Alpine climbing is a type of mountaineering that involves using any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and in Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly-equipped teams who carry all of their own equipment, and do all of the climbing.
The Mazeno Ridge is an arête, a long narrow ridge, and part of the Nanga Parbat massif in Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, in the Himalayan range. The ridge is the longest of any ridge on the eight-thousander peaks in the Himalayas. A series of eight subsidiary peaks form the ridge, the highest being Mazeno Peak at 7,120 metres (23,360 ft). All eight subsidiary peaks have been climbed, but a complete traverse of the ridge and ascent of Nanga Parbat was only successfully achieved in 2012, and as of 2019, no other expedition has reached the summit of Nanga Parbat via the Mazeno Ridge.
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