Tendai Moyo

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Tendai Moyo, also known as Varaidzo Tendai Moyo, is the Zimbabwean-born co-founder and CEO of Ruka Hair, a direct to consumer hair extension brand for Afro-Caribbean women who prefer natural hair. [1] [2]

Life and career

Moyo was born in Harare, Zimbabwe. In post-colonial Zimbabwe, social expectations pressurised Black women with African American hair type 3c and above, [3] that is, with tightly curled, coiled or kinky hair, hair that has its own requirements. [4] Convention required them to wear their hair as straight as possible, in order to mimic ideas of European standards of beauty. Moyo found that hair straightening, whether by using chemical relaxers, hair irons or hot combs, causes hair breakage, hair loss or scalp burns and is an expensive and lengthy process that also implies there is something wrong with black hair worn naturally. This view is an expression of racial discrimination and feeds internalized racism. [5] [4] [6] [7]

Moyo moved to Malawi, then to Swindon in the UK where, unlike in the USA where some 35% of African-American women can find their hair products in supermarkets, [8] she found it impossible to find black hair salons or products. Moyo studied at the London School of Economics and Political Science gaining a B.Sc in Business, Mathematics & Statistics in 2018. She also received a certificate in Jen Rubio - Direct to Consumer from The Business of Fashion in December 2018. [9] After graduating, Moyo worked in banking, as Head of Finance at Educo limited, from 2017 to 2019 and as a consultant with Bain & Company until 2020. [9] [2] She was inspired by the natural hair movement and then turned her attention to the lack of availability of Afro-Caribbean hair products in the UK. [10] [11]

Fewer than 1% of salons in the UK cater for Afro-Caribbean women’s hair, the main products sold being chemical relaxers. Moyo wanted to see Black women’s curly, coily and kinky hair textures and hair products represented in the mainstream haircare industry. In 2021, Moyo co-founded Ruka Hair with Nigerian colleague Ugo Agbai. [12] Crowdfunding, to help their Black-owned startup business, raised money fast, their investors including Ian Hogarth, founder of Songkick, Tom Adeyoola, founder of MeTail and cofounder of Extend Ventures, and Nicole Crentsil, founder of Black Girl Fest. [13] [14] [15]

For Afro-Caribbean women wanting natural hair with styling options, the company now makes biodegradable, natural hair extensions of different lengths in hair texture types up to 4c. [6] These are available direct to the wearer. [16] Ruka Hair is the only Black-owned hair concession to open in the department store Selfridges. [17] [18] Moyo believes in the importance of educating clients, stylists, salon owners and hair product producers about the nature and care of Afro-Caribbean hair and so hosts training videos, [19] In addition, the British Beauty Council [20] has successfully pushed for Afro-Caribbean hair care to be included in UK hair stylist qualification syllabuses. [21] [22] [3] [23]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Afro</span> Hair style

The afro is a hair style created by combing out natural growth of afro-textured hair, or specifically styled with chemical curling products by individuals with naturally curly or straight hair. The hairstyle can be created by combing the hair away from the scalp, dispersing a distinctive curl pattern, and forming the hair into a rounded shape, much like a cloud or puff ball.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cornrows</span> Style of hair braiding

Cornrows are a style of traditionally three-strand braids, originating in Africa, in which the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to make a continuous, raised row. Cornrows are often done in simple, straight lines, as the term implies, but they can also be styled in elaborate geometric or curvilinear designs. They are distinct from, but may resemble, box braids, Dutch braids, melon coiffures, and other forms of plaited hair, and are typically tighter than braids used in other cultures.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beauty salon</span> Hair and cosmetic treatment salon

A beauty salon or beauty parlor is an establishment that provides cosmetic treatments for people. Other variations of this type of business include hair salons, spas, day spas, and medical spas.

Black is beautiful is a cultural movement that was started in the United States in the 1960s by African Americans. It later spread beyond the United States, most prominently in the writings of the Black Consciousness Movement of Steve Biko in South Africa. Black is beautiful got its roots from the Négritude movement of the 1930s. Negritude argued for the importance of a Pan-African racial identity among people of African descent worldwide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kinky hair</span> Human hair texture indigenous to sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia

Kinky hair, also known as afro-textured hair, is a human hair texture prevalent in the indigenous populations of many regions with hot climates, mainly sub-Saharan Africa, and some areas of Melanesia, and Australia. Each strand of this hair type grows in a repeating pattern of small contiguous kinks. These numerous kinks make kinky hair appear denser than straight, wavy, and curly hair types.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair straightening</span> Hair styling technique

Hair straightening is a hair styling technique used since the 1890s involving the flattening and straightening of hair in order to give it a smooth, streamlined, and sleek appearance. It became very popular during the 1950s among black males and females of all races. It is accomplished using a hair iron or hot comb, chemical relaxers, Japanese hair straightening, Brazilian hair straightening, or roller set/blowdryer styling. In addition, some shampoos, conditioners, and hair gels can help to make hair temporarily straight.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">African-American hair</span> Afro-textured hair types

African-American hair or Black hair refers to hair types, textures, and styles that are linked to African-American culture, often drawing inspiration from African hair culture. It plays a major role in the identity and politics of Black culture in the United States and across the diaspora. African-American hair often has a kinky hairy texture, appearing tightly coiled and packed. Black hair has a complex history, culture, and cultural impact, including its relationship with racism.

Discrimination based on hair texture, also known as textureism, is a form of social injustice, where afro-textured hair or coarse hair types, and their associated hair styles, are viewed negatively, often perceived as "unprofessional", "unattractive", or "unclean". This view can lead, for example, to some school students being excluded from class.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jim Markham</span>

James Albert Markham is an American hair stylist and serial entrepreneur, who has founded four hair care companies– Markham Products, ABBA Pure and Natural, PureOlogy Serious Colour Care, and, most recently, ColorProof Color Care Authority. He was also celebrity stylist Jay Sebring's protege and successor of Sebring International after Sebring was murdered by the Manson Family. Markham is known for advancing the Sebring cutting technique and introduced a generation of men to a new way of cutting and caring for their hair in the early 1970s, which emphasizes cutting hair in the direction it grows, daily washing and conditioning, and blow-drying. By 1973 Markham had improved upon the concept and took it nationwide over the next decade, coining the technique The Markham Method. Under his men's hair care line, Markham Products, he personally trained and certified thousands of barbers and stylists as Markham Style Innovators. The stylist's client list included many notable celebrities including Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, Frank Sinatra, Johnny Carson, Peter Lawford, Wolfman Jack, among many others. He also taught film producer and celebrity hairstylist Jon Peters the Sebring method.

The natural hair movement is a movement which aims to encourage people of African descent to embrace their natural, afro-textured hair; especially in the workplace. It originated in the United States during the 1960s, and resurged in popularity in the 2000s.

The Andre Walker Hair Typing System, also known as TheHair Chart, is a classification system for hair types created in the 1990s by Oprah Winfrey's stylist Andre Walker. It was originally created to market Walker's line of hair care products but has since been widely adopted as a hair type classification system. Walker's system includes images of each hair type to aid classification. The system has been criticised for an apparent hierarchy which values Caucasian hair over other hair types. In 2018 the system was the subject of episodes of the podcasts 99% Invisible and The Stoop.

Anthony Dickey, known professionally as Dickey, is an American hairstylist known for his expertise on all hair textures, especially wavy, curly and kinky. He is the co-founder of Hair Rules New York, the first and only multi-textural salon in the U.S.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nontsikelelo Mutiti</span> Artist from Zimbabwe

Nontsikelelo Mutiti is a graphic designer, artist and educator. Her work focuses on web design, video, print, and book art. She often includes hair braiding in her design work, and is "interested in the nuanced differences between black cultures". Her work includes printed materials for Black Lives Matter. Since 2022, Mutiti has served as the Director of Graduate Studies in Graphic Design at the Yale School of Art.

Charlotte Mensah is a British/Ghanaian hairstylist. She is the founder and creative director of Hair Lounge, on London's Portobello Road. In November 2018 she became the first black woman to be inducted into the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame.

Vernon François is a hairdresser from Huddersfield, Yorkshire, England, UK. He is known for his work in the natural hair movement, particularly with curly hair and afro textured hair. He is the founder of the haircare line, the Vernon François Collection, which was created in 2016.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brad Mondo</span> American hairstylist

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Annagjid "Kee" Taylor is American hair stylist, business executive, and YouTuber. Taylor is best known as the owner of Deeper Than Hair salon and the accompanying YouTube channel Deeper Than Hair TV, which has approximately 1.3 million subscribers. She is a celebrity hair stylist and is also the CEO of the hair care product line Deeper Than Hair.

Cécred is a privately held American hair care brand founded in 2024 by American singer-songwriter Beyoncé. It is self-funded and made for all hair types.

References

  1. ↑ "Why Afro hair textures need to be represented". BBC News. Archived from the original on 2023-03-20. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  2. 1 2 Williams, Tommy. "Meet RUKA: The Hair Brand Creating Personalised Extensions To Match Black Women's Hair Textures". Forbes. Archived from the original on 2023-06-08. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  3. 1 2 "How to Figure Out Your Curl Type and Why It Actually Helps". Buy Hair Online (in Dutch). Archived from the original on 2022-09-12. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  4. 1 2 Dabiri, Emma (2020). Don't touch my hair. Penguin history. UK USA Canada Ireland Australia India New Zealand South Africa: Penguin Books. ISBN   978-0-14-198628-9.
  5. ↑ "Braiding Rituals Passed Down From Her Mother Inspired Tendai Moyo's Ruka". Bustle. 2023-01-17. Archived from the original on 2023-02-24. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  6. 1 2 "Texture Gap Report Claims Type 4 Is the Forgotten Hair Type". 2023-07-27. Archived from the original on 2024-01-19. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  7. ↑ "We are Ruka". Ruka Hair. Archived from the original on 2023-12-05. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  8. ↑ "Treasure Tress: Making Waves in the Hair and Beauty Sector". The Voice . February 2024. p. 16.
  9. 1 2 "Varaidzo Tendai Moyo - CEO at Ruka Hair". THE ORG. Archived from the original on 2024-05-01. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  10. ↑ "Project Two - RUKA HAir". investinten. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  11. ↑ "TENDAI". investinten. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  12. ↑ "Our Vision". Ruka Hair. Archived from the original on 2023-09-29. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  13. ↑ "16 Black female founders in the UK who have raised funding". Sifted. Archived from the original on 2023-11-03. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  14. ↑ "Ruka Hair has hit £1,000,000 raise in Crowdfund". cosmeticsbusiness.com. Archived from the original on 2024-05-01. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  15. ↑ "How I Closed My Funding Round With Tendai Moyo - The Stack World Members". members.thestack.world. Archived from the original on 2024-05-01. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  16. ↑ AJ Odudu On Celebrating Black Hair With RUKA Co-founder Tendai Moyo | In Conversation, archived from the original on 2023-04-01, retrieved 2024-02-10
  17. ↑ "These 4 Black women have helped make the hair care industry more inclusive - here's how". www.stylist.co.uk. Archived from the original on 2022-12-31. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  18. ↑ "RUKA Beauty". Selfridges.com. 10 February 2024. Archived from the original on 1 May 2024. Retrieved 10 February 2024.
  19. ↑ "Learn". Ruka Hair. Archived from the original on 2023-12-05. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  20. ↑ "British Beauty Council". The British Beauty Council. Archived from the original on 2024-02-09. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  21. ↑ "8 Black British women who've made waves". Girlguiding. Archived from the original on 2023-12-11. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  22. ↑ "Afro Hair On The Curriculum For Hairdressing Students". 2021-07-05. Archived from the original on 2024-02-09. Retrieved 2024-02-10.
  23. ↑ "'My nearest afro hair salon is hours away'". BBC News. Archived from the original on 2024-02-23. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
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