The Meat Racket

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The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business
The Meat Racket cover art.png
First edition
Author Christopher Leonard
Genrenonfiction
Publisher Simon & Schuster
Publication date
2014
ISBN 9781451645835
Followed by Kochland  
Website Publisher's web page for the book

The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business is a 2014 book by Christopher Leonard about the meat processing industry in the United States that focuses on Tyson Foods as the market leader. Widely reviewed on publication, the book gained additional attention during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020.

Contents

Author

A graduate of the University of Missouri, [1] Leonard was formerly an agribusiness reporter for the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette [2] and the Associated Press. He was a fellow at the New America Foundation when he wrote the book. [3] [1]

Content

Several reviewers emphasized vertical integration as key to the growth of Tyson Foods as described in the book. Kirkus Reviews described the book's message as "Using Tyson as a window on modern meat production, Leonard shows how the company has eliminated free market competition through vertical integration, buying up independent suppliers (feed mills, slaughterhouses and hatcheries) and controlling farmers through restrictive contracts." [3] In The Wall Street Journal , Moira Hodgson wrote that the book describes how the company founder John W. Tyson "left his nearly bankrupt family's farm in Missouri. He headed with his wife, his son and his truck to Arkansas, where he began to invest in chickens, hauling birds from the South, where they were cheap, to Chicago, Detroit and St. Louis. He used his profits to buy chicken houses and eventually bought his own hatchery and feed mill, vertically integrating his company by buying up the firms that supplied it." [4] Christine Sismondo, writing for the Toronto Star , described how Tyson "got into all aspects of the business, starting with chicken feed and hatcheries, until he owned practically every cog in the chain that linked the egg to the grocery store, " adding that "Business majors will recognize this as an early and successful instance of 'vertical integration,' something Tyson pioneered in agri-business. Having tight control over the whole supply chain paid off and Tyson Foods is one of the largest meat producer in the world, with a practical monopoly on wings, nuggets and tenders plus a stronghold on pork and beef as well. [5] Writing in the Virginia Quarterly Review , James McWilliams characterized Tyson's methods as described in the book as a "rotten system", adding that "Tyson’s vertical integration enables the company to dictate contracts that enfeeble growers in insidious ways." McWilliams concluded that a chicken farmer "has no control over the health of his birds or the quality of his feed", adding that "an unruly contract grower will quickly become the unknowing recipient of inferior food and sick hatchlings—in essence, the season’s dregs. Contractually, he can do nothing about the hand Tyson deals him. His numbers will drop and, after a few lackluster growing periods, the manager, citing the low figures, will fire the farmer, leaving him to default on his bank loan. What Tyson gets out of the move is both the removal of a troublesome farmer and space for a new farmer to get a new loan to build a new set of barns." [6] In the American Journal of Agricultural Economics , K. Aleks Schaefer wrote that the book "traces the evolution of the modern American meat industry from its post-Depression origins to the present through the eyes of Tyson Foods’ innovators and contract farmers. Readers experience first-hand the exhilaration of a young couple breaking ground on their first chicken farm and suffer the sorrow of that same couple, years later, as their farm is foreclosed. We sit in Neal's Café, a small diner in Springdale, Arkansas, as John and Don Tyson, in their matching khaki coveralls, discuss corporate strategy and contrive the McDonalds McNugget." [7]

Critical reception

In The New York Times , Nick Reding described the book as a "brilliant, in-depth portrait of Tyson Foods" that "leans left, with a journalist’s tireless reporting and uncommon empathy for small producers of chicken and pork, making it easy to fault Tyson for everything that ails us." [8] Writing in The Washington Post , Bethany McLean described the book as a "deeply reported narrative about how big business has come to rule the production of meat." [9] A review in Publishers Weekly said that the author "pulls off a stunning feat in putting the heat on the major industrial meat giants," adding that "the hardest body blows are landed by Leonard on Tyson Foods, the nation's biggest meat company, whose production and distribution practices were previously hush-hush, due to a rigid code of silence and potential retaliation on those who snitch. Founded during the Great Depression, Tyson Foods fashioned a highly profitable empire through smart alliances with bankers, creating a network of local contract farmers and keeping them on a short economic leash while controlling the entirety of the supply chain." [10] Dan Charles of National Public Radio wrote that the book "aims a spotlight at Tyson Foods, which helped create the modern chicken industry. And it recounts the stories of people, mostly farmers, whom Leonard contends Tyson has chewed up and cast aside since its incorporation in 1947. [2]

Attention during the Covid-19 pandemic

During the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, the book was mentioned in the press and its author Christopher Leonard was quoted as an expert on Tyson Foods as the coronavirus spread through the meat processing industry. In an interview published in the Los Angeles Times , Leonard said "This is 100% a symptom of consolidation," adding "We don’t have a crisis of supply right now. We have a crisis in processing. And the virus is exposing the profound fragility that comes with this kind of consolidation." [11] In the Financial Times of London, Leonard was quoted about the full page ad that John H. Tyson signed in The New York Times and other papers, calling the statement "extraordinarily rare, if not unprecedented," adding "to so blatantly advertise that the system is falling apart was breathtaking. I mean, the entire rationale for Tyson Foods’ existing is that they can get meat to the grocery counter consistently, affordably and in a way that doesn't make you sick." [12]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vertical integration</span> When a company owns its supply chain

In microeconomics, management and international political economy, vertical integration is an arrangement in which the supply chain of a company is integrated and owned by that company. Usually each member of the supply chain produces a different product or (market-specific) service, and the products combine to satisfy a common need. It contrasts with horizontal integration, wherein a company produces several items that are related to one another. Vertical integration has also described management styles that bring large portions of the supply chain not only under a common ownership but also into one corporation.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Meat alternative</span> Plant-based food made to resemble meat

A meat alternative or meat substitute, is a food product made from vegetarian or vegan ingredients, eaten as a replacement for meat. Meat alternatives typically approximate qualities of specific types of meat, such as mouthfeel, flavor, appearance, or chemical characteristics. Plant- and fungus-based substitutes are frequently made with soy, but may also be made from wheat gluten as in seitan, pea protein as in the Beyond Burger, or mycoprotein as in Quorn. Alternative protein foods can also be made by precision fermentation, where single cell organisms such as yeast produce specific proteins using a carbon source; as well as cultivated or laboratory grown, based on tissue engineering techniques.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pilgrim's Pride</span> U.S.-based food company

Pilgrim's Pride Corporation is an American, multi-national food company, currently one of the largest chicken producers in the United States and Puerto Rico and the second-largest chicken producer in Mexico. It exited bankruptcy in December 2009 and relocated its U.S. headquarters to Greeley, Colorado, in 2011. It is majority-owned by JBS S.A. Pilgrim's Pride purchased Gold'n Plump for $350 million in late November 2016.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tyson Foods</span> American food company

Tyson Foods, Inc. is an American multinational corporation based in Springdale, Arkansas that operates in the food industry. The company is the world's second-largest processor and marketer of chicken, beef, and pork after JBS S.A. It annually exports the largest percentage of beef out of the United States. Together with its subsidiaries, it operates major food brands, including Jimmy Dean, Hillshire Farm, Ball Park, Wright Brand, Aidells, and State Fair. Tyson Foods ranked No. 79 in the 2020 Fortune 500 list of the largest United States corporations by total revenue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Meat-packing industry</span> Industrial production of food and by-products from animals

The meat-packing industry handles the slaughtering, processing, packaging, and distribution of meat from animals such as cattle, pigs, sheep and other livestock. Poultry is generally not included. This greater part of the entire meat industry is primarily focused on producing meat for human consumption, but it also yields a variety of by-products including hides, dried blood, protein meals such as meat & bone meal, and, through the process of rendering, fats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hatchery</span>

A hatchery is a facility where eggs are hatched under artificial conditions, especially those of fish, poultry or even turtles. It may be used for ex situ conservation purposes, i.e. to breed rare or endangered species under controlled conditions; alternatively, it may be for economic reasons.

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The meat industry are the people and companies engaged in modern industrialized livestock agriculture for the production, packing, preservation and marketing of meat. In economics, the meat industry is a fusion of primary (agriculture) and secondary (industry) activity and hard to characterize strictly in terms of either one alone. The greater part of the meat industry is the meat packing industry – the segment that handles the slaughtering, processing, packaging, and distribution of animals such as poultry, cattle, pigs, sheep and other livestock.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Charoen Pokphand Foods</span> Thai agro-industrial and food company

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Smithfield Foods, Inc., is a pork producer and food-processing company based in Smithfield, Virginia. It operates as a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Chinese-owned conglomerate WH Group. Founded in 1936 as the Smithfield Packing Company by Joseph W. Luter and his son, the company is the largest pig and pork producer in the world. In addition to owning over 500 farms in the US, Smithfield contracts with another 2,000 independent farms around the country to raise Smithfield's pigs. Outside the US, the company has facilities in Mexico, Poland, Romania, Germany, Slovakia and the United Kingdom. Globally the company employed 50,200 in 2016 and reported an annual revenue of $14 billion. Its 973,000-square-foot meat-processing plant in Tar Heel, North Carolina, was said in 2000 to be the world's largest, slaughtering 32,000 pigs a day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Perdue Farms</span> American meat processing company

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John W. Tyson was an American businessman, the founder of American multinational corporation Tyson Foods and, from 1935 until his death in 1967, its chief executive officer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marfrig</span> Brazilian food processing company

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zilpaterol</span> Chemical compound

Zilpaterol is a β2 adrenergic agonist. Under its brand name, Zilmax, it is used to increase the size of cattle and the efficiency of feeding them. Zilmax is produced by Intervet, a subsidiary of Merck & Co., and marketed as a "beef-improvement technology". Zilpaterol is typically fed in the last three to six weeks of cattle's lives, with a brief period before death for withdrawal, which allows the drug to mostly leave the animal's tissues.

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<i>Farmageddon</i> (book) 2014 book by Philip Lymbery and Isabel Oakeshott

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broiler industry</span> Process by which broiler chickens are reared and prepared for meat consumption

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Antibiotic use in the United States poultry farming industry is the controversial prophylactic use of antibiotics in the country's poultry farming industry. It differs from the common practice in Europe, where antibiotics for growth promotion were disallowed in the 1950s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the meat industry in the United States</span> Impact of COVID-19

The meat industry has been severely affected by the COVID-19 pandemic in the United States. Outbreaks of the virus took place in factories operated by the meat packing industry and the poultry processing industry. These outbreaks affected dozens of plants, leading to closures of some factories and disruption of others, and posed a significant threat to the meat supply in the United States. The damage the COVID-19 pandemic brought to the meatpacking industry was unexpected and resulted in a sharp reduction of meat processing and capacity reduction of meatpacking companies.

Christopher Leonard is an American investigative journalist. He has written three books, The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business the New York Times best-selling Kochland: The Secret History of Koch Industries and Corporate Power in America, and The Lords of Easy Money: How the Federal Reserve Broke the American Economy. His work has appeared in The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Fortune, and Bloomberg Businessweek.

References

  1. 1 2 "Christopher Leonard". New America Foundation . Retrieved May 14, 2019. Christopher Leonard was a Schmidt Family Foundation Fellow at New America. As a fellow, Leonard published The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business, which explores the modern American meat system, and began writing a book about Koch Industries.
  2. 1 2 "Is Tyson Foods' Chicken Empire A 'Meat Racket'?". National Public Radio . February 19, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  3. 1 2 "An authoritative look at a ruthlessly efficient system: The Meat Racket". Kirkus Reviews . January 15, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  4. Hodgson, Moira (March 12, 2014). "Book Review: 'The Meat Racket,' by Christopher Leonard: Using a tournament system, Tyson compares how well each farmer fattens his chickens. Inefficient farmers are driven out of business". Wall Street Journal . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  5. Sismondo, Christine (February 25, 2014). "The Meat Racket by Christopher Leonard: review". Toronto Star . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  6. McWilliams, James (Spring 2015). "Inside Big Ag: On the Dilemma of the Meat Industry". Virginia Quarterly Review . Center for Media and Citizenship, University of Virginia . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  7. Schaefer, K. Aleks (October 2014). "The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business". American Journal of Agricultural Economics . 96 (5): 1507–1508. doi:10.1093/ajae/aau075 . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  8. Reding, Nick (February 27, 2014). "How the Sausage Is Made". New York Times . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  9. McLean, Bethany (February 28, 2014). "Book review: 'The Meat Racket' by Christopher Leonard". Washington Post . Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  10. "The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business". Publishers Weekly . March 31, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2020.
  11. Skerritt, Jen (April 29, 2020). "How giant Tyson Foods helped create the meat shortage it now warns against". Los Angeles Times . Retrieved May 13, 2020.
  12. Meyer, Gregory (May 1, 2020). "John Tyson laments breakdown of meat system his family pioneered: Tyson Foods chief warns of supply shortages that critics blame on concentrated production line". Financial Times . London . Retrieved May 13, 2020.