Tilicho Peak

Last updated
Tilicho Peak
Tilicho peak.jpg
Tilicho Peak
Highest point
Elevation 7,134 m (23,406 ft) [1] [2]
Prominence 734 m (2,408 ft)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Coordinates 28°41′04″N83°48′16″E / 28.68444°N 83.80444°E / 28.68444; 83.80444 Coordinates: 28°41′04″N83°48′16″E / 28.68444°N 83.80444°E / 28.68444; 83.80444
Nepal rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Tilicho Peak
Location in Nepal
Location Nepal
Parent range Himalaya
First ascent 1978 by Emanuel Schmutz
Easiest route glacier/snow

Tilicho Peak is a mountain in the Nepalese Himalaya, near Annapurna. The peak was first seen by Europeans in 1950 by members of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition led by Maurice Herzog who were attempting to find Annapurna I. [2]

Lake Tilicho is located on the northern side of the peak.

The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder. [3] In 1982 a winter ascent was made by Ang Serky, Dawa Gyalzen and Serky Tshering in what anthropologist Sherry Ortner believes to be the first all-Sherpa mountaineering expedition. [3] [4] [5]

Related Research Articles

Annapurna Eight-thousander and 10th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Annapurna is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its ascent.

Makalu Eight-thousander and 5th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,481 metres (27,825 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region, China. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.

Cho Oyu 6th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Cho Oyu is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China–Nepal border.

Eight-thousander Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

Dhaulagiri Eight-thousander and 7th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I is 34 km (21 mi) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.

Manaslu Eight-thousander and 8th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Manaslu is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 8,163 metres (26,781 ft) above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Manaslu means "mountain of the spirit" and is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that, given the many unsuccessful attempts by the British to climb Everest before New Zealander Edmund Hillary, "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".

Tengboche Place in Province No. 1, Nepal

Tengboche is a village in Khumbu Pasanglhamu rural municipality in the Khumbu subregion of Province No. 1 in Nepal, located at 3,867 metres (12,687 ft). In the village is an important Buddhist monastery, Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. The structure was built in 1923. In 1934, it was destroyed by an earthquake but subsequently rebuilt. It was destroyed again by a fire in 1989, and again rebuilt with the help of volunteers and the provision of foreign aid. Tengboche has a panoramic view of the Himalayan mountains, including the well-known peaks of Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. Tenzing Norgay, the first man to reach the summit of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary, was born in the area in the village of Thani and was once sent to Tengboche Monastery to be a monk.

Lionel Terray French climber and mountaineer

Lionel Terray was a French climber who made many first ascents, including on the 1955 French Makalu expedition in the Himalaya and Cerro Fitz Roy in the Patagonian Andes.

Annapurna II Mountain in Nepal

Annapurna II is part of the Annapurna mountain range located in Nepal, and is the eastern anchor of the range.

Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts MVO MBE MC was one of the greatest Himalayan mountaineer-explorers of the twentieth century; a highly decorated British Army officer who achieved his greatest renown as "the father of trekking" in Nepal. His exploratory activities are comparable to those of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman.

Annapurna III Mountain in Nepal

Annapurna III is a mountain in the Annapurna mountain range located in Nepal, and at 7,555 metres (24,787 ft) tall, it is the 42nd highest mountain in the world and the third highest peak of the Annapurna mountain range.

Elizabeth Hawley Journalist and chronicler of Nepal Himalayan expeditions

Elizabeth Hawley was an American journalist, author, and chronicler of Himalayan mountaineering expeditions. Hawley's The Himalayan Database became the unofficial record for climbs in the Nepalese Himalaya. She was also the honorary consul in Nepal for New Zealand.

Jongsong Peak is a mountain in the Janak section of the Himalayas. At 7,462 metres (24,482 ft) it is the 57th highest peak in the world, although it is dominated by 3rd highest, Kangchenjunga, 20 km (12 mi) to the south. Jongsong's summit is on tripoint of India, Nepal and China.

25 members, including 13 sherpas, of the Indian Army Everest Expedition 2007, scaled Mount Everest, the world's highest peak, on May 15 and 16, 2007. This was the fourth expedition by the Indian Army to Everest, but the first from Tibet side, and the treacherous North face. Earlier, Indian Army Everest Expeditions have scaled the peak in 1965, 2001, 2003, and, by an all women army expedition, in 2005.

Ang Tharkay Nepalese sherpa and sirdar (1907-1981)

Ang Tharkay was a Nepalese mountain climber and explorer who acted as sherpa and later sirdar for many Himalayan expeditions. He was "beyond question the outstanding sherpa of his era" and he introduced Tenzing Norgay to the world of mountaineering.

American Womens Himalayan Expedition

The American Women's Himalayan Expedition was a 1978 expedition to Annapurna which placed the first two women, and first Americans, on its summit. The expedition was led by Arlene Blum and consisted of thirteen women, and six sherpas. On October 15, the first summit team, composed of Vera Komarkova, Irene Beardsley, Mingma Tshering Sherpa and Chewang Ringjin Shepa summitted Annapurna via the Dutch Route. The second summit team, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson, died during the climb.

Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz English painter

Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz was a British climber, mountaineer, painter and lithography lecturer. She made the first ascent of Gasherbrum III, at the time the highest unclimbed mountain in the world. Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz died along with her climbing partner, Vera Watson, during an attempt on Annapurna I Central.

Nirmal Purja Nepalese-British mountaineer

Nirmal Purja is a Nepal-born naturalised British mountaineer and a holder of multiple mountaineering world records. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy. Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in a record time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen. He was also the first to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese mountaineers, completed the first-ever winter ascent of K2.


  1. Annapurna; Tilicho & Naar-Phu (Map). 1:125,000. Cartography by Himalayan Maphouse Pvt Ltd. Nepa Maps. August 2009. § B3. ISBN   99933-2-307-1.
  2. 1 2 "Tilicho Peak". SummitPost.
  3. 1 2 "Climbing history". Yeti Zone. Archived from the original on February 19, 2001. Retrieved December 5, 2009.
  4. Ortner, Sherry B. (1999). Life and Death on Mt. Everest : Sherpas and Himalayan mountaineering. Princeton University Press. p. 260. ISBN   0-691-00689-X.
  5. Sarkey Tshering Sherpa (1883). "Tilicho, Sherpa Winter Ascent". American Alpine Journal . 25 (57): 243–244. and pdf