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African design encompasses many forms of expression and refers to the forms of design from the continent of Africa and the African diaspora including urban design, architectural design, interior design, product design, art, and fashion design. Africa's many diverse countries are sources of vibrant design with African design influences visible in historical and contemporary art and culture around the world. The study of African design is still limited, particularly from the viewpoint of Africans, and the opportunity to expand its current definition by exploring African visual representations and introducing contemporary design applications remains immense.
Like all forms of design, African design is defined by its creativity and continuous evolution. Design is a form of story-telling and it is a medium through which those stories are told. In 2009, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie spoke on "The Danger of a Single Story" which has become one of the top ten most-viewed TED Talks of all time. For years African design has been stereotyped, represented by ethnic prints and earthy colors and textures. Yet with 54 countries and an estimated total of over 1.2 billion people in Africa as of 2018, in addition to 210 million people across the African diaspora (Brazil, the Caribbean, and the United States), African design is not limited to a single aesthetic or singular history; rather it is multifaceted and influenced its local and global context, both historical and present-day, in which the designer or consumer lives.
African design is rooted in rich heritage, techniques, and craftsmanship. As contemporary African designers move on from externally imposed definitions of the colonial era, they acknowledge African traditional craft and craftsmanship is where they draw inspiration: preserving the past by putting a focus on their heritage and traditions while remaining open to global influences and technology. An example is the architecture of the Kenyan National Library, [1] which was inspired by the Djembe drum.
Across Africa, sustainable design focusing on social responsibility and the environment is important and the use of locally sourced natural materials has always been part of the African design process. As stated by Professor Mugendi K M’Rithaa “It is about design for, and with, society [2] [3] [4] .”
The generation of wealth in African societies facilitated their development of design. For centuries, African kingdoms generated wealth from trading natural resources with other Africans and later Arabs and Europeans. The Asante Empire’s dominance over the gold trade has been documented. Similarly, rich agricultural societies of Central Africa and Southern Africa exchanged goods with the Portuguese since the 16th century. This wealth spurred local design and creativity across architecture, art, textiles, and other design forms. Examples include the 11th century Great Zimbabwe and the other 200 mortarless wall cities throughout Southern Africa as well as the Benin Bronzes created from the 13th century in the Benin Empire (present-day Nigeria). Textile weaving also flourished due to patronage by kings, chiefs, and other royals and aristocrats for ceremonial occasions such as birth, marriage, and funerals. In Nigeria, the ancient city of Kano was known for its highly developed textile industry and indigo dyeing-pits. In Central Africa, the Bamileke bought beads to decorate thrones and ceremonial clothing thereby enhancing their importance. External influences, particularly religion, also impacted design across Africa. Religion's requirements for modesty encouraged the adoption of clothing. The arrival of Islam in the 11th century in West Africa and later Christianity in the 1450s in Cape Verde which spread along the West African coast and then inland stimulated local production of stripwoven cloths as well as demand for imported fabrics. In East Africa, cotton was introduced by Arabs in Ethiopia which spurred cotton-growing and weaving industries to turn cotton into textiles.
Historically, textiles were used as a form of money in West Africa and Central Africa. There are records of cloth being used as money since the fourteenth century. Pieces were made identical in size, efficiently carried, and exchanged in quantities based on the value of the item or trade. [5]
Across Africa, there are many distinct local styles of textiles. Wealthy individuals and traders required different types of locally-woven and imported cloth to enhance their prestige, driving demand. The Kuba in Cameroon and Congo has one of the widest range of textile skills in Africa including weaving cloth from leaves of raphia palm as well as embroidery, appliqué, cut-pile, and resist dyeing techniques.
Further information: Ghana Akan goldweights, Benin Bronzes
Further information Prehistoric African Art, African Art thematic elements, history and influence, Museum of Black Civilisations
Further information: Architecture of Africa, Moroccan Architecture
Further information: African Art in Western Collections
Design is playing an important role as African designers move on from externally imposed definitions of the colonial era and redefine African design on their own terms. African designers acknowledge traditional craft and craftsmanship in contemporary designs. This places a focus on their heritage and traditions while remaining open to global influences and technology, and creates contemporary designs that take into account social sustainability and environmental sustainability needs of each region.
There are several institutions that showcase and support the study of African design, with an increasing focus on the perspective of Africans and the African diaspora.
Further information: Contemporary African Art, Contemporary African Art exhibitions, World Festival of Black Arts, Museum of Black Civilisations, The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art and Art X Lagos
Further information: African American Art, Influence of African Art on Western Art and General concept of Art, Metropolitan Museum of Art: Before Yesterday We Could Fly
Further information: Architecture of Africa, David Adjaye, Architect Africa Film Festival, Moroccan Architecture
Leading Contemporary African furniture designers include Bibi Seck, co-founder of Birsel + Seck and Malian designer Cheick Diallo whose MO armchair, made using a combination of fishing wire stretched over a metal frame, is inspired by traditional traps used by Malian fishermen. The chair has been highly regarded as a perfect mixture of material, ergonomics, and local aesthetic in an elegant, somewhat sculptural furniture piece. The designs of Jomo Tariku, an Ethiopian American artist and industrial designer who draws on his experiences of African design and various African cultures in Kenya and Ethiopia, has been featured at the 2017 International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF) and well-recognized design magazines including Architectural Digest , Elle Decor and Dwell . Ini Archibong, an American born artist and designer of Nigerian heritage, has designed furniture for Bernhard Design, Sé, and Knoll. Works by both Tariku and Archibong are included in the Afrofuturist Period Room at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) in New York. [21] [22] Nigerian Jean Servais Somian, [23] who spends his time between Africa and Europe teaching classes, infuses his creations with elements of ancestrality, reflected in his choice of materials (coconut wood, ebony, or acacia) and revisited objects of everyday African life like basins, sponge, or old fishermen's canoes. Yinka Ilori, [24] [25] based in London, fuses together his British and Nigerian heritage to tell new stories in contemporary design. His work draws inspiration from traditional Nigerian parables and West African fabrics that surrounded him as a child. South Africa-based design company Dokter & Misses [26] develop interior solutions for private and corporate clients as well as educational institutions all over the world, including MTV, Nike, and the University of Johannesburg, and continue to support and promote South African design.
Paying homage to his cultural ties, Hamed Ouattara's [27] designs highlight Burkina Faso's artisanal metal-working heritage and address a modern global audience, including international galleries and important collectors, through African innovation. Recently deceased in April 2015 while preparing for his show in London, Babacar M’Bodj Niang, founder of Nulangee Studio [28] in Senegal, sculpted furniture out of local, discarded wood that was sourced by the community kids and adults he employed. [29]
Tekura Designs’ [30] [31] djembe side table, sustainably made from wood offcuts in Ghana's forests, draws inspiration from the West African djembe drum. Nigerian architect and designer Tosin Oshinowo’s furniture brand Ilé Ilà produces furniture inspired by Yoruba culture.
Emerging designers include South African's Candice Lawrence, [32] inspired by the textures, people, and environment where she lives, has remodeled Ndebele necklaces into handcrafted lighting pendants that have been featured in Forbes , Vogue Italia , and Top Billing South Africa . Sifiso Shange was recognized in 2019 for Best New Talent at the 100% Design South Africa showcase (one of Africa's leading exhibitions for contemporary design), for a design created in collaboration with established designer John Vogel whose signature chairs and furniture incorporate local materials and woven techniques. [33]
Multidisciplinary artist and textile designer, Aboubakar Fofana, is one of the world's foremost practitioners of fermented indigo vat dyeing and mineral mud-dye techniques and is known for his work in reinvigorating Mali's nearly lost tradition of natural indigo dyeing and redefining West African indigo dyeing techniques. Based in Bamako, Mali, Fofana, utilizes the finest hand-woven fabrics and travels globally to lead workshops on indigo dyeing techniques. [34]
Senegalese textile designer Aissa Dione creates luxurious fabrics using locally-grown cotton and Senegal's ancient, ancestral know-how. [35] With a customer base including global brands Hermés, Fendi, Christian Liaigre, and Peter Marino, Aïssa serves the highest end interior design brands. Her designs and fabrics grace major design salons, from Paris to Johannesburg and New York. In 2019, Aissa Dione designed the interiors at Kehinde Wiley's Black Rock artists’ residence in Dakar (the buildings were designed by Senegalese architect Abib Djenne). [36] [37] Other established textile designers include Nigerian Eva Sonaike, [38] Haitian brand Yael et Valerie, Conakry, Guinea based Tensira, Ethiopian textile designer Sabahar, and Egyptian rug maker Kilim practicing traditional hand-weaving techniques.
With key hubs in Southern Africa, East Africa, and West Africa, designers and artisans weave eco-friendly functional and decorative baskets using available and sustainable natural fibers like sisal grass in Eswatini and raffia in Ghana. Some examples of leading designers include Zenzulu basket designs which are handmade and fairly traded, ensuring sustainable incomes for more than 350 artisans in South Africa. Zenzulu has been awarded the Elle Decoration International Design Award in 2002. The designs have been showcased in Design Made in Africa. Established in 1985, producer Tintsaba is recognized as an industry leader, working with over 1000 Swazi artisans including 20 Master Weavers. Gone Rural is another, named by Travel & Leisure as one of three brands making waves in sustainable fashion and housewares. In Tanzania, Sidai Designs collaborates with Maasai weavers to merge their techniques with a modern aesthetic. Contemporary artists like AAKS maintain the traditional legacy of weaving using raffia to create modern handbags and lighting.
Africa as a whole is made up of many different and diverse cultures and has inspired many different fashions and music styles. African imagery can be seen a lot in black communities and Afro communities throughout the world, for example, Europe and North America.
Yinka Shonibare, is a British-Nigerian artist living in the United Kingdom. His work explores cultural identity, colonialism and post-colonialism within the contemporary context of globalisation. A hallmark of his art is the brightly coloured Ankara fabric he uses. As Shonibare is paralysed on one side of his body, he uses assistants to make works under his direction.
Textile design, also known as textile geometry, is the creative and technical process by which thread or yarn fibers are interlaced to form a piece of cloth or fabric, which is subsequently printed upon or otherwise adorned. Textile design is further broken down into three major disciplines: printed textile design, woven textile design, and mixed media textile design. Each uses different methods to produce a fabric for variable uses and markets. Textile design as an industry is involved in other disciplines such as fashion, interior design, and fine arts.
Chief Nike Davies-Okundaye, also known as Nike Okundaye, Nike Twins Seven Seven and Nike Olaniyi, is a Nigerian Yoruba and adire textile designer. She is best known as an artist for her cloth work and embroidery pieces.
African textiles are textiles from various locations across the African continent. Across Africa, there are many distinctive styles, techniques, dyeing methods, and decorative and functional purposes. These textiles hold cultural significance and also have significance as historical documents of African design.
Gunta Stölzl was a German textile artist who played a fundamental role in the development of the Bauhaus school's weaving workshop, where she created enormous change as it transitioned from individual pictorial works to modern industrial designs. She was one of a small number of female teachers on the Bauhaus' staff and the first to hold the title of "Master".
Adire (Yoruba) textile is a type of dyed cloth made in south west Nigeria by Yoruba women, using a variety of resist-dyeing techniques. It is a material designed with wax-resist methods that produce patterned designs in dazzling arrays of tints and hues. It is common among the Egba people of Ogun State.
Strawberry Thief is one of William Morris's most popular repeating designs for textiles. It takes as its subject the thrushes that Morris found stealing fruit in his kitchen garden of his countryside home, Kelmscott Manor, in Oxfordshire. To print the pattern Morris used the painstaking indigo dye textile printing method he admired above all forms of printing. He first attempted to print by this method in 1875 but it was not until 1881, when he moved into his factory at Merton Abbey, near Wimbledon, that he succeeded. In May 1883 Morris wrote to his daughter, "I was a great deal at Merton last week ... anxiously superintending the first printing of the Strawberry thief, which I think we shall manage this time." Pleased with this success, he registered the design with the Patents Office. This pattern was the first design using the technique in which red and yellow (weld) were added to the basic blue and white ground. Discharge printing was used.
Nnenna Okore is an Australian-born Nigerian artist who lives and works in Chicago at North Park University, Chicago. Her largely abstract sculptural forms are inspired by richly textured forms and colours within the natural environment. Okore's work frequently uses flotsam or discarded objects to create intricate sculptures and installations through repetitive and labor-intensive processes. She learnt some of her intricate methods, including weaving, sewing, rolling, twisting and dyeing, by watching local Nigerians perform daily domestic tasks. In her more recent works, Okore uses plant-based materials to create large bioplastic art forms and installations. Her work has been shown in galleries and museums within and outside of the United States. She has won several international awards, including a Fulbright Scholar Award in 2012. and the Australian Creative Victoria Award in 2021.
Dorothy Wright Liebes was an American textile designer and weaver renowned for her innovative, custom-designed modern fabrics for architects and interior designers. She was known as "the mother of modern weaving".
Jack Lenor Larsen was an American textile designer, author, collector and promoter of traditional and contemporary craftsmanship. Through his career he was noted for bringing fabric patterns and textiles to go with modernist architecture and furnishings. Some of his works are part of permanent collections at prominent museums including Museum of Modern Art, Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Institute of Chicago,Musée des Arts Décoratifs at the Louvre, and the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which has his most significant archive.
Esmeralda Devlin is an English artist and stage designer who works in a range of media, often mapping light and projected film onto kinetic sculptural forms. She has received several accolades including a Tony Award and two Olivier Awards. She was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in the 2015 and Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) in the 2022 by Queen Elizabeth II for services to design. She was recognized as one of the BBC's 100 women of 2013.
Marianne Strengell was an influential Finnish-American Modernist textile designer in the twentieth century. Strengell was a professor at Cranbrook Academy of Art from 1937 to 1942, and she served as department head from 1942 to 1962. She was able to translate hand-woven patterns for mechanized production, and pioneered the use of synthetic fibers.
Althea McNishCM FSCD was an artist from Trinidad who became the first Black British textile designer to earn an international reputation.
Natsai Audrey Chieza is a designer and the founder of Faber Futures, a R&D studio that creates biologically inspired materials. She gave a 2017 TED talk on fashion's problem with pollution. She is Designer in Residence at Ginkgo Bioworks.
Tunde Odunlade, born 26 November 1954, is a Nigerian artist, actor, and musician known for his Batik art tapestry and designs. He specialises in textile arts, and floatography. He is a member of the Visual Artists Network of the United States of America (VAN) and a frequent participant at the National Conference of Artists, New York. He was a performing actor with the Nigeria Cultural Troupe during Festac. He lives in Ibadan, the southern western part of Nigeria.
Inimfon "Ini" Joshua Archibong is an industrial designer, creative director, artist and musician who is active in product design, furniture design, environmental design, architecture, watch design, and fashion.
Our Homecoming, is an annual three-days music, fashion, sport, and arts festival in Lagos, Nigeria. It has been founded by Grace Ladoja, as a community under Metallic Inc. The platform was established for cultural exchange, sharing African creativity with the world as a way of connecting international creatives from Africa in the diaspora back to the motherland. The festival provides a venue for workshops, football pitch, art museum, live bands, DJs, and musicians.
Jonathan Olivares is an American industrial designer and author. Olivares's approach to design has been characterized research-based and incremental. In April 2022 he became Senior Vice-President of Design at the Knoll furniture company.
Olayinka "Yinka" Ilori is a British artist and designer known for his bold use of bright colours and playful designs for furniture and public spaces. His work includes architecture, interior design, graphic design, textiles, sculpture, and furniture. It includes storytelling using design as a medium, referencing his British and Nigerian heritage.
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