Chelsea boot

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Chelsea boots in black calf leather Chelsea boot, black.jpg
Chelsea boots in black calf leather

Chelsea boots are close-fitting, ankle-length boots with elastic side panels, a low heel and a snug fit around the ankle. They often have a loop or tab of fabric on the back of the boot, enabling the boot to be pulled on. The boot dates back to the Victorian era, when it was worn by both men and women. [1]

Contents

Chelsea boots and some of their variants were considered an iconic fashion element of the 60s in Britain, particularly in the mod scene.[ citation needed ]

History

Chelsea boots in brown suede Chelsea boot, brown suede.jpg
Chelsea boots in brown suede

The design is credited to Queen Victoria's shoemaker Joseph Sparkes Hall. [2] Hall claimed that "She (Queen Victoria) walks in them daily and thus gives the strongest proof of the value she attaches to the invention". [3] In his advertising they are branded J. Sparkes Hall's Patent Elastic Ankle Boots. [4] The boot became popular for horse riding as well as walking. [3] The term "chelsea boot" emerged a few years before the beginning of the Victorian era, being the name used by London cobbler Thomas Cotton by 1831. [5] [6] [7] [8]

Charles Goodyear's development of vulcanised rubber enabled the invention of the elastic gusset boot. The advantage of elasticised boots meant they could be readily removed and put on. By the late 1840s they had become fashionable, and it remained a prominent style in the West until the onset of World War I. [9]

In the 1950s and 1960s, Chelsea boots enjoyed a resurgence in the UK – and their association with trendy King's Road (a street in Chelsea and Fulham in inner western London) social set of Swinging London – worn by everyone from the Rolling Stones to Jean Shrimpton – is when Chelsea became contemporary name of the boot. [3] [4]

Variations and similar styles

The Beatles, seen here in 1963, helped to popularise Chelsea boots. The Beatles i Hotorgscity 1963.jpg
The Beatles, seen here in 1963, helped to popularise Chelsea boots.

Beatle boots

Theatrical and ballet shoe maker Anello & Davide created a variant of the Chelsea boot in 1961 with Cuban heels and pointed toes for the Beatles, after John Lennon and Paul McCartney saw some Chelsea boots in its shop window and commissioned four pairs with higher, Cuban heels – this style became known as Beatle boots. [10]

Beatle boots, as were Chelsea boots, were frequently adopted by mods and worn with tailored suits. [4]

Work boots

Australian work boots are a variation of the Chelsea boot. AustralianElasticSidedBoots.JPG
Australian work boots are a variation of the Chelsea boot.

Variants used as work boots include a type of riding boot called Jodhpur boots, originating from India, as well as other designs, including Australian work boots like those manufactured by Blundstone and other companies. [11] Such work boots may have steel toes. In Brazil this kind of boot is known as a botina. Often rugged and utilitarian in design, and similar to Australian work boots, they are commonly associated with caipiras or the rural population in general. [12] [13] [14]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Boot</span> Type of footwear extending above the ankle joint

A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. Traditionally made of leather or rubber, modern boots are made from a variety of materials.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wellington boot</span> Type of waterproof boot

A Wellington boot, often shortened to welly, and also known as a gumboot, rubber boot, or rain boot, is a type of waterproof boot made of rubber.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Riding boot</span> Boot made to be used for horse riding

A riding boot is a boot made to be used for horse riding. The classic boot comes high enough up the leg to prevent the leathers of the saddle from pinching the leg of the rider, has a sturdy toe to protect the rider's foot when on the ground and has a distinct heel to prevent the foot from sliding through the stirrup. The sole is smooth or lightly textured to avoid being caught on the tread of the stirrup in the event of a fall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Thigh-high boots</span> Boots extending above the knee

Thigh-high boots, known also as thigh-length boots or simply thigh boots, are boots that extend above the knees to at least mid-thigh. Other terms for this footwear include over-the-knee boots, a name originally used for 15th century riding boots for men. These are sometimes called pirate boots, especially when cuffed. Over-the-knee boots are sometimes abbreviated to OTK boots. Lengths vary from reaching just over the knee to reaching almost to the crotch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chaps</span> Leather leg coverings

Chaps are sturdy coverings for the legs consisting of leggings and a belt. They are buckled on over pants with the chaps' integrated belt, but unlike trousers, they have no seat and are not joined at the crotch. They are designed to provide protection for the legs and are usually made of leather or a leather-like material. Their name is a shortened version of the Spanish word chaparajos. Chaparajos were named after the chaparral, from which they were designed to protect the legs while riding on horseback. Like much of western American horse culture, the origin of chaparajos was in the south of Spain, from which it then passed on to the part of New Spain that later became Mexico, and has been assimilated into cowboy culture of the American West. They are a protective garment to be used when riding a horse through brushy terrain. In the modern world, they are worn for both practical work purposes and for exhibition or show use. Chaps have also been adopted for use on motorcycles, particularly by cruiser-style motorcycle riders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Winklepicker</span> Style of footwear

Winklepickers or winkle pickers are a style of shoe or boot worn from the 1950s onward, especially popular with British rock and roll fans such as Teddy Boys. The feature that gives both the boot and shoe their name is the very sharp and long pointed toe, reminiscent of medieval poulaines and approximately the same as the long pointed toes on some women's high-fashion shoes and boots in the 2000s. They are still popular in the goth, raggare and rockabilly subcultures.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Combat boot</span> Type of boots designed to be worn by soldiers

Combat or tactical boots are military boots designed to be worn by soldiers during combat or combat training, as opposed to during parades and other ceremonial duties. Modern combat boots are designed to provide a combination of grip, ankle stability, and foot protection suitable for a rugged environment. They are traditionally made of hardened and sometimes waterproofed leather. Today, many combat boots incorporate technologies originating in civilian hiking boots, such as Gore-Tex nylon side panels, which improve ventilation and comfort. They are also often specialized for certain climates and conditions, such as jungle boots, desert boots, and cold weather boots as well as specific uses, such as tanker boots and jump boots.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jump boot</span> Combat boot for paratroopers

Jump boots are a type of combat boot designed for paratroopers featuring calf-length lacing and rigid toe caps. The style was developed in many countries simultaneously with the adoption of airborne infantry forces during World War II. Modern jump boots are earned in some countries and therefore have become a mark of achievement and distinction, mainly worn as dress and parade boots. The uppers are generally made of smooth black leather with toe-caps and heel counters that accept a high polish. It is also a paratrooper tradition to lace jump boots in a ladder or cobweb style which increases ankle support during a parachute jump.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tanker boot</span> Military boots for soldiers on tanks

Tanker boots are military boots closely associated with soldiers who serve on tanks. The tanker boot was "designed by Dehner's own H. E. Ketzler and General George S. Patton Jr. in 1937" who "wanted something easy and fast to get on." Regular combat boots are laced through metal eyelets in the leather upper, but the tanker boots are fastened with leather straps which wrap around the upper and buckle near the top. This benefits the wearer in several ways:

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Australian work boot</span> Style of work boot

An Australian work boot is a style of work shoe, typically constructed with a leather upper bound together with elastic sides and pull tabs on the front and back of the boot. The shoe lacks a tongue, and laces, and often contains a steel toe cap for occupational health and safety reasons. When the shoe contains a steel cap they are often known as "safety boots" or "steel toe boots". The boots generally lack an inner lining. The sole is generally polyurethane and the leather uppers are treated to be resistant to hot water, fats and mild alkaline and acid solutions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Breeches</span> Clothing with coverings for each leg

Breeches are an article of clothing covering the body from the waist down, with separate coverings for each leg, usually stopping just below the knee, though in some cases reaching to the ankles. Formerly a standard item of Western men's clothing, they had fallen out of use by the mid-19th century in favour of trousers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jodhpurs</span> Full-hipped riding trousers

Jodhpurs, in their modern form, are tight-fitting trousers to the ankle, where they end in a snug cuff, and are worn primarily for horse riding. The term is also used as slang for a type of short riding boot, also called a paddock boot or a jodhpur boot, because they are worn with jodhpurs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ammunition boot</span> Footwear for the British Army

Ammunition boots are a form of military footwear. They were the standard combat boot for the British Army and other forces around the British Empire and Commonwealth from at least the mid-1860s until their replacement a century later in the 1960s with the rubber-soled Boots DMS.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beatle boot</span> Style of footwear

A Beatle boot or Cuban boot is a style of boot that has been worn since the late 1950s but made popular by the English rock group the Beatles in the 1960s. The boots are a variant of the Chelsea boot: they are tight-fitting, Cuban-heeled, ankle-high boots with a sharp pointed toe. The style can feature either elastic or zipped sides.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jodhpur boot</span> Type of riding boot

The Jodhpur boot is an ankle boot or Chelsea boot designed as a riding boot with a rounded toe and a low heel. They originally fastened with a strap and buckle, but today the term also includes designs with straps that do not wrap entirely around the ankle and the elastic-sided design without a strap also known as Chelsea boots. A closely related riding boot design is called a paddock boot, particularly if modified to have a lace-up front. It is named after Jodhpur, the second-largest city in the Indian state of Rajasthan.

Anello & Davide is a footwear company based in Covent Garden, London. It specialises in ballet shoes and theatrical footwear as well as making high quality fashion footwear for men and women. They are perhaps best known as the shoemakers responsible for the Beatle boot. The shop is seen briefly in the opening shot of the 1953 film Street of Shadows.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion boot</span> Boot worn for style rather for utilitarian purposes

A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion. The term is usually applied to women's boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire. Although boots were a popular style of women's footwear in the 19th century, they were not recognized as a high fashion item until the 1960s. They became widely popular in the 1970s and have remained a staple of women's winter wardrobes since then.

Russian boot is the name applied to a style of calf- or knee-length fashion boot for women that was popular in the early part of the 20th century. Russian boots fell out of favor in the 1930s, but were the inspiration for the high-leg fashion boots that returned to popularity in the 1950s and 60s. Today the term Russian boot is sometimes applied to the style of low-heeled boots worn by some folk dancers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cowboy boot</span> High-heeled leather riding boot

Cowboy boots are a specific style of riding boot, historically worn by cowboys. They have a high heel that is traditionally made of stacked leather, rounded to pointed toe, high shaft, and, traditionally, no lacing. Cowboy boots are normally made from cowhide leather, which may be decoratively hand-tooled, but are also sometimes made from "exotic" skins like alligator, snake, ostrich, lizard, eel, elephant, stingray, elk, buffalo, and so on.

References

  1. Genova, Aneta (20 September 2011). Accessory Design. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN   978-1-62892-161-8.
  2. staff (27 November 2012). "The perfect Chelsea boot". Esquire. Archived from the original on 14 July 2014. Retrieved 13 July 2014.
  3. 1 2 3 staff (2 March 2011). "The Edit: Chelsea Boots". No. 2/5. Mr Porter. Archived from the original on 28 June 2013. Retrieved 13 July 2014.
  4. 1 2 3 Nanjappa, Vikram. "The Chelsea Boots Guide". gentlemansgazette.com. Gentleman's Gazette. Retrieved 13 July 2014.
  5. "Gazette, November 29" . Liverpool Mercury . Lancashire. 2 December 1831. p. 7. Retrieved 3 June 2023.
  6. "BANKRUPTS" . Cobbett's Weekly Political Register . London. 3 December 1831. p. 637. Retrieved 3 June 2023.
  7. "TUESDAY's LONDON GAZETTE – BANKRUPTS" . The Cheltenham Chronicle and Gloucestershire Advertiser. Cheltenham. 1 December 1831. p. 3. Retrieved 3 June 2023.
  8. "BANKRUPTS, Nov. 29" . The Newcastle Weekly Courant. Newcastle. 10 December 1831. p. 2. Retrieved 3 June 2023.
  9. Kippen, Cameron. "The History of Boots". Department of Podiatry. Perth, Western Australia: Curtin University. Archived from the original on 12 August 2007. Retrieved 21 September 2013.
  10. Bramwell, Tony (2004). Magical Mystery Tours: My Life with the Beatles. Robson. p. 34. ISBN   0-312-33043-X.
  11. Nanjappa, Vikram (30 October 2021). "The Jodhpur Boots Guide". Medium. Retrieved 28 August 2024.
  12. Norogrando, Rafaela (8 January 2019). Moda, música & sentimento (in Brazilian Portuguese). Editora Estação Das Letras e Cores. ISBN   978-85-68552-43-8.
  13. Placar Magazine (in Portuguese). Editora Abril. March 1996. p. 42.
  14. "Curiosidades do Campo: veja como as botas do homem do campo são fabricadas". Canal Rural (in Brazilian Portuguese). 19 July 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2022.