Earl Denman

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Earl Lionel Denman (1914-1994) was a Canadian mountaineer and engineer who attempted to climb Mount Everest in 1947. [1]

Contents

Biography

Denman was born on 11 December 1914 in Tod Inlet on Vancouver Island [1] but grew up in England. [2] He was a Canadian mountaineer who attempted to climb Mount Everest in 1947. [1] By 1947 he was working as an engineer in Southern Rhodesia. [3]

Everest 1947

His illegal [4] attempt was very different from the large-scale efforts by British mountaineers around the same time. He had little experience, having only climbed the smaller Virunga mountains in East Africa before this expedition. He did not have much money, equipment, or fuel, and entered Tibet without permission. [5] In Darjeeling he happened to pass a shop window in which was displayed some photgraphs of snow-capped mountains and noticed that the name of the shop's proprieter was familar to him from Everest books he had read, in so doing he had stumbled upon a way of meeting Karma Paul who had provided support for six major expeditions which had travelled to Tibetan side of Everest. [6] Because of the experience with Maurice Wilson, an earlier solo traveller to Everest, Karma Paul was unwilling to help Denman but he did put him in touch with the two sherpas who were willing to accompany him. [7]

The two Sherpas were Tenzing Norgay, later to make the first ascent of Everest [8] and Ang Dawa. Norgay later said that he knew Denman had little chance of succeeding, but that he agreed to join Denman because "the pull of Everest was stronger for me than any force on earth." [1] After a trekking across Tibet, [2] Denman and the two Sherpas started their ascent on April 9, 1947. [9] They reached about 22,000 ft (6,700 m) of the roughly 29,000 ft (8,800 m) mountain before a storm compelled them to abort the attempt and turn back. [1] [2] [10] [11] [12]

After Everest

Denman tried to return to Everest in 1948, [3] but couldn't leave India. [4] In 1954 his autobiography Alone to Everest of his Everest attempt was published. [13] [14] [15] Later he fought Apartheid in South Africa, [2] where he was living in the 1960s [3] before he was thrown out of the country. [2]

In 1982 he was living in New Zealand. [2] On 9 December 1994 Earl Lionel Denman died in New Zealand; he was born on 11 December 1914. [16]

Sources

"Gipfel ohne Götter ",2. Kapitel und 4. Kapitel, von Fritz Rudolph, Sportverlag Berlin 1959

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 Gellner, John (April 3, 1971). "Is man equal to Everest". The Globe and Mail . Toronto. pp. The Globe Magazine 12–14. ProQuest   1241697524.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Emrick, Larry (March 11, 1986). "11-member team off to conquer Everest walks path trodden by Canadian pioneers". The Citizen . Ottawa. p. A4. ISSN   0839-3214. ProQuest   238927446.
  3. 1 2 3 Gellner, John (January 4, 1964). "Madcap assault on Everest by Canadian engineer". Maclean's . Toronto: 18, 32. Archived from the original on May 22, 2021. Retrieved May 25, 2021. ...when Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first men to stand on the summit of Mount Everest, the celebrated Sherpa guide was wearing a woolen balaclava helmet given to him six years earlier by an amateur Canadian mountain climber named Earl Denman. "So at last," Tenzing recounted later, "a little part of Denman reached his goal."
  4. 1 2 Little, James (March 2021). "The Pull of Everest". Canadian Geographic . Vol. 141, no. 2. Ottawa. pp. 52–55, 58–64, 66, 68. ISSN   0706-2168. ProQuest   2527608722 . Retrieved May 24, 2021. ...B.C.-born Earl Denman made history with one of the most audacious attempts ever to climb the mountain.
  5. ↑ Kurz, Marcel (1953). "Mount Everest a century of History". In Kurz, Marcel (ed.). Mountain World 1953. George Allen and Unwin Ltd. pp. 28–29. Retrieved January 16, 2025.
  6. 1 2 Denman, Earl (1954). Alone to Everest. Collins. p. 140. Retrieved January 16, 2025.
  7. 1 2 Unsworth, Walter (1981). Everest. Allen Lane. ISBN   9780713911084 . Retrieved January 16, 2025.
  8. ↑ "Obituary of Sherpa Tenzing, heroic conquest of Everest". The Times . London. May 10, 1986. Gale   A117882008.
  9. ↑ "Vancouver Island-Born Man Climbs Near Everest's Top". Times Colonist . Victoria, British Columbia. Reuter. June 11, 1947. p. 1. Retrieved May 24, 2021– via Newspapers.com.
  10. ↑ Gellner, John (October 6, 1962). "Man conquers the Himalaya". The Globe and Mail . Toronto. pp. The Globe Magazine 9–11, 14. ProQuest   1284944041.
  11. ↑ "6 Canadians to try ascent of Everest". The Globe and Mail . Toronto. March 17, 1981. p. 10. ISSN   0319-0714. ProQuest   1143121515.
  12. ↑ "Canadian Face the Ultimate Challenge". Sport Canada. Vol. XVIII, no. 11. Montreal: Travel Times. Autumn 1981. ProQuest   1399144808.
  13. ↑ "Books - Authors". The New York Times . Vol. CIV, no. 35305. September 22, 1954. p. 27. ProQuest   113066465.
  14. ↑ "The Mountain That Drew Men Onward". The New York Times . Vol. CIV, no. 35379. December 5, 1954. p. The New York Times Book Review 44. ProQuest   112960043.
  15. ↑ "Earl Denman's Alone to Everest". Manchester Guardian . June 25, 1954. p. 6. Retrieved May 24, 2021.
  16. ↑ Registrar_General
  17. ↑ James Ramsey, Ullman (1955). Tiger of the Snows: The Autobiography of Tenzing of Everest (PDF). G.P. Putnam's & Sons. p. 94. Retrieved January 14, 2025.
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