A Gamusa made from Pat silk with intricate designs.
The Gamosa of Assam is an article of significance for the people of Assam, India. It is generally a white rectangular piece of cloth with primarily a red border on three sides and red woven motifs on the fourth (in addition to red, other colors are also used). Although cotton yarn is the most common material for making/weaving gamosas, there are special occasion ones made from Pat silk.
A 1,455.3 meter long Gamusa displayed in Delhi created world record as it became the world's longest hand woven piece of cloth.[1]
Origin of the name
Literally translated, it means 'something to wipe the body with' (Ga=body, musa=to wipe) however, interpreting the word gamosa as the towel is misleading.[2] The word gamosa is derived from the Kamrupi word gamsaw, the cloth used to cover the Bhagavad Purana at the altar.
Though it is used as a turban or scarf, the use is not restricted to this.
It is used to cover the altar at the prayer hall or cover the scriptures. An object of reverence is never placed on the bare ground, but always on a gamusa.
It is used by the farmer, fishermen or hunter as a waistcloth (tongali) or a loincloth (suriya).
A Bihu dancer wraps it around the head with a fluffy knot (see picture).
It is hung around the neck at the prayer hall (naamghar) and was thrown over the shoulder in the past to signify social status.
Guests are welcomed with the offering of a gamusa and tamul (betel nut) and elders are offered gamusas (referred to as bihuwaan in this case) during Bihu.[2]
It may be used as a towel to wipe the body after a bath (an act of purification).
One can therefore, very well say, that the gamusa symbolizes the indigenous life and culture of Assam.
Cultural significance
Significantly the gamusa is used equally by all irrespective of religious and ethnic backgrounds.
At par with gamusa, there are beautifully woven symbolic clothes with attractive graphic designs being used by different cultural sub-systems and ethno-cultural groups as well.
A Gamusa border with a traditional handwoven motif called goxa
There were various other symbolic elements and designs traditionally in use, which are now only found in literature, art, sculpture, architecture, etc. or used for only religious purposes (in particular occasions only). The typical designs of Assamese-lion, dragon, flying-lion, etc. were used for symbolizing various purposes and occasions.
A towel is a piece of absorbent cloth or paper used for drying or wiping a surface. Towels draw moisture through direct contact.
Assam is a state in northeastern India, south of the eastern Himalayas along the Brahmaputra and Barak River valleys. Assam covers an area of 78,438 km2 (30,285 sq mi). It is the second largest state in northeastern India by area and the largest in terms of population, with more than 31 million inhabitants. The state is bordered by Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh to the north; Nagaland and Manipur to the east; Meghalaya, Tripura, Mizoram and Bangladesh to the south; and West Bengal to the west via the Siliguri Corridor, a 22-kilometre-wide (14 mi) strip of land that connects the state to the rest of India. Assamese and Bodo are two of the official languages for the entire state and Meitei (Manipuri) is recognised as an additional official language in three districts of Barak Valley and Hojai district. in Hojai district and for the Barak valley region, alongside Bengali, which is also an official language in the Barak Valley.
Bihu is of three types and it is an important cultural festival unique to the Indian state of Assam – 'Rongali' or 'Bohag Bihu' observed in April, 'Kongali' or 'Kati Bihu' observed in October or November, and 'Bhogali' or 'Magh Bihu' observed in January. The festivals present an admixture of Tibeto-Barman, Austroasiatic and Indo-Aryan traditions entwined so intricately that it is impossible to separate them—festivals which are uniquely Assamese to which all communities of Assam had contributed elements. The Rongali Bihu is the most important of the three, celebrating spring festival. The Bhogali Bihu or the Magh Bihu is a harvest festival, with community feasts. The Kongali Bihu or the Kati Bihu is the sombre, thrifty one reflecting a season of short supplies and is an animistic festival.
A rushnyk or rushnik is a decorative and ritual cloth. Made of linen or cotton it usually represents woven or embroidered designs, symbols and cryptograms of the ancient world. They have been used in sacred East Slavic rituals, religious services and ceremonial events such as weddings and funerals. Each region has its own designs and patterns with hidden meaning, passed down from generation to generation and studied by ethnographers.
An altar cloth is used in the Christian liturgy to cover the altar. It serves as a sign of reverence as well as a decoration and a protection of the altar and the sacred vessels. In the orthodox churches it is covered by the antimension, which also contains the relics of saints.
A Tibetan prayer flag is a colorful rectangular cloth, often found strung along trails and peaks high in the Himalayas. They are used to bless the surrounding countryside and for other purposes.
The culture of Assam is traditionally a hybrid one, developed due to cultural assimilation of different ethno-cultural groups under various political-economic systems in different periods of its history.
Mekhela Sador is a traditional attire worn by women from Nagaland and Assam. Mekhela Sador is two-piece attire, the Mekhela and the Sador, and is generally made from silk such as Muga silk, Eri or Pat silk.
Jaapi or Japi is an Asian conical hat. It is made from tightly woven bamboo and/or cane and tokou paat a large, palm leaf. The word jaapi derives from jaap meaning a bundle of tokou leaves. In the past, plain jaapis were used by ordinary people in Assam and by farmers for protection from the sun, while ornate decorative jaapis were worn as a status symbol by the royalty and nobility. Decorative sorudoi jaapi are made with intricate cloth designs that are integrated into the weaving.
Bohag Bihu or Rongali Bihu also called Xaat Bihu is a traditional ethnic festival celebrated in the Northeastern Indian state of Assam and other parts of Northeastern India by the indigenous ethnic groups of Assam, and marks the beginning of the Assamese New Year. The festival is of mostly aboriginal origin comprising Tibeto-Burman and Tai elements. It usually falls in the 2nd week of April, historically signifying the time of harvest. Every year it falls on the 14th day of April. The holiday unites the different native communities of Assam regardless of their backgrounds and promotes the celebration of ethnic diversity.
Jolpan, or snacks, are often served at breakfast in the cuisine of Assam, although they may also be served at Bihu festivals or weddings. The word jolpan includes all the preparations namely jolpan, pitha, laru and tea. Other common items served for breakfast may include roti, luchi, ghugni and sometimes paratha etc. Jolpan are also found in Bengal. The word literally derives from "water and betel leaf" but can mean any snack.
Nakshi kantha, a type of embroidered quilt, is a centuries-old Bengali art tradition of the Bengal region, notably in Bangladesh and the Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura, and parts of Assam. The basic materials used are thread and old cloth. Nakshi kanthas are made throughout Bangladesh, primarily in the areas of Mymensingh, Jamalpur, Bogra, Rajshahi, Faridpur, Jessore, and Chittagong.
Gāmchhā, also known as Gamchhā, Gāmuchhā (Odia-ଗାମୁଛା), Gamusā (Assamese-গামোচা) and Angochha, is a rectangular piece of traditional coarse cotton cloth, sometimes with a checked design, worn as traditional scarf by men in the Indian subcontinent, mainly in Bangladesh, Eastern India, as well as in eastern Terai of Nepal. It also became bit popular in other cultures of India and now in what is known as Pakistan after the Indian partition, as well as various parts of South and Southeast Asia. The word "Gamcha" is Bengali which comes from two very simple and commonly used Bengali words, (গা) ga which means "Body", and (মোছা) mochha which means "wipe". Literally translated, it means 'something to wipe the body with' however, interpreting the word gamcha as the towel is misleading. It is often worn on one side of the shoulder. Its appearance varies from region to region, and it has been traditionally worn as a scarf by the Odia men, Bhojpuriya men and Bengali men. Gamcha is also a headwear for Bengali men in Bangladesh. Gamucha was also mentioned in Odia Mahabharata by Sarala Dasa as part of the traditional dress of Odia men. Weavers of traditional tantubaya or jugi community migrated from Bangladesh to Tripura and weavers of Odisha produce good quality gamucha.
Naga shawls are traditional shawls with a distinctive pattern made by various Naga ethnic groups from Nagaland and its neighbouring areas in Northeast India. Naga shawls embody specific traditional connotations that symbolize status, identity, and achievement. Beyond being a piece of cloth, Naga shawls convey rich traditional narratives. These textiles serve as vehicles of communication, perpetually transmitted from one generation to the next, fostering cultural continuity within Naga society. Particularly noteworthy is their significance within the Naga community, which is devoid of script or written historical records.
Indira Gandhi Athletic Stadium, also known as Sarusajai Stadium, is a multi-purpose stadium in Lokhra locality, Guwahati, Assam, India. Seating 21,600 people, it is the home ground of NorthEast United FC and is used for athletic events. The stadium was one of the venues for the 2007 National Games, the 2016 South Asian Games, and the 2017 FIFA U-17 World Cup.
Folk dances of Assam include the Bihu and the Bagurumba, the Bhortal, the Ojapali dance. Assam is home to many groups: Muslim, Indo-Aryan, Rabha, Bodo, Dimasa, Karbi, Mising, Sonowal Kacharis, Mishmi and Tiwa (Lalung) etc. These cultures come together to create an Assamese culture. Residents of the state of Assam are known as "Axomiya" (Assamese). Most tribes have their own language, although Assamese is the primary language of the state.
The Kanchipuram silk sari is a type of silk sari made in the Kanchipuram region in Tamil Nadu, India. These saris are worn as bridal & special occasion saris by most women in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka & Andhra Pradesh. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2005–2006.
The Mising people are a Sino-Tibetan ethnic group inhabiting mostly in the Northeast Indian states of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. They are part of the greater Tani group of people of India and Tibet Autonomous Region of China.
The Chutia people are an ethnic group that are native to Assam and historically associated with the Chutia kingdom. However, after the kingdom was absorbed into the Ahom kingdom in 1523–24, the Chutia population was widely displaced and dispersed in other parts of Upper Assam as well as Central Assam. They constitute one of the core groups that form the Assamese people.
The Toda Embroidery, also locally known as "pukhoor", is an art work among the Toda pastoral people of Nilgiris, in Tamil Nadu, made exclusively by their women. The embroidery, which has a fine finish, appears like a woven cloth but is made with use of red and black threads with a white cotton cloth background. Both sides of the embroidered fabric are usable and the Toda people are proud of this heritage. Both men and women adorn themselves with the embroidered cloaks and shawls.
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