Heinz Grill | |
---|---|
Born | |
Nationality | German |
Occupation(s) | Mountaineer, author, yoga teacher |
Website | heinz-grill |
Heinz Grill is a German mountaineer, author, and yoga teacher. He has opened many new climbing routes in the Alps and Dolomites.
In 1977 he won the Golden Carabiner award from the German Alpine Club. In 2012 he shared the Silla Ghedina prize for best climbing in the Dolomites.
Heinz Grill began to climb from the age of twelve. [1] At the age of seventeen he soloed the Pumprisse route on the Fleischbank in the Wilder Kaiser, [2] an undertaking that caused a sensation and scandal, because it was the first solo ascent of the first route in the Alps officially rated as 7th grade. Following this undertaking (considered by traditionalists a provocation because it was daring but dangerous), Heinz Grill was excluded from the Alpenverein (Alpine Club) of Wasserburg. [3] However, in 1977 he was awarded the Golden Carabiner prize for his solo ascents in the Wilder Kaiser.
During the years 1975 - 1990 he climbed the rock routes alone, without ropes and safety devices. These include: in the Karwendel in Austria on Punta Laliderer the Rebitsch route, on the Pilastro Lalider the Rebitsch route; [4] in the Sella Group on Piz Ciavazes the via Soldà, the routes of Armando Aste (for example the Ezio Polo) on the Marmolada, [5] la Via Ideale, [6] via Canna d’Organo and via Comici in Civetta; [7] and the Regular Route on the Half Dome in Yosemite. [4] In this period he made himself known as a daring solo climber. [2] In 1988 he began working as a writer; in 2000 he moved to live in Italy in Arco, Trentino.
From 2006 to 2016 he opened about 80 routes in the Sarca Valley in Trentino; these have increased the infrastructure of Arco and its surroundings. [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] Heinz Grill's routes in the Sarca Valley are called "rhythmic routes" [14] and have a character between sports and mountaineering climbing. [15] Heinz Grill stated that the routes were opened from below in a mountaineering style, but were later "sculpted and created" through extensive cleaning work. [16] [17] [18]
He has created 30 new rock routes in the Dolomites, for example in the Pale di San Martino on the Cima Immink the Via Internazionale and the Via Nuova, [19] [20] in the Brenta Dolomites on the Croz dell'Altissimo the Via in Memoria of Samuele Scalet [21] on the Pale di San Lucano, on the Spiz di Lagunaz the Pilastro Massarotto route, [22] and the Via Collaborazione (awarded by Silla Ghedina the most beautiful Dolomite route of 2012), in Vallaccia. [23] [24] among many others. [25] [26]
In addition to appreciation, Grill's mountaineering work has been criticised: the routes he opened, according to some, would in fact only appear to be mountaineering, but in reality were banal, with dug holds, overloaded with coiled ropes and stops made with wood (which could be considered dangerous). [27] [28]
Grill teaches and writes about yoga and meditation in the mountainous northern province of Trentino, Italy. [29] [30]
In 1977 Grill received the Golden Carabiner award from the German Alpine Club of Wasserburg. [31]
The Silla Ghedina prize for the best climbing in the Dolomites 2012 was awarded to Grill with his companions Franz and Martin Heiss and Florian Kluckner, for the Collaboration route. [32]
In 2017 Grill was nominated as a Scholar of the Italian Academic Climbing Club. [33]
Grill writes on subjects including medicine, yoga, architecture, spirituality, philosophy, and mountaineering. He has published over 100 works in German. [34] [35] Some of his works have been translated into Dutch, English, and Italian. [36]
Ladin is a Romance language of the Rhaeto-Romance subgroup, mainly spoken in the Dolomite Mountains in Northern Italy in the provinces of South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno, by the Ladin people. It exhibits similarities to Romansh, spoken in Switzerland, as well as Friulian, spoken in north-east Italy.
The Dolomites also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They form part of the Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley. The Dolomites are in the regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia, covering an area shared between the provinces of Belluno, Vicenza, Verona, Trentino, South Tyrol, Udine and Pordenone.
Cortina d'Ampezzo is a town and comune in the heart of the southern (Dolomitic) Alps in the province of Belluno, in the Veneto region of Northern Italy. Situated on the Boite river, in an alpine valley, it is an upscale summer and winter sport resort known for its skiing trails, scenery, accommodation, shops and après-ski scene, and for its jet set and Italian aristocratic crowd.
The Brenta Group or Brenta Dolomites is a mountain range, and a subrange of the Rhaetian Alps in the Southern Limestone Alps mountain group. They are located in the Province of Trentino, in northeastern Italy. It is the only dolomitic group west of the Adige River. Therefore, geographically, they have not always been considered a part of the Dolomites mountain ranges. Geologically, however, they definitely are - and therefore sometimes called the "Western Dolomites". As part of the Dolomites, the Brenta Group has been officially recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site under the World Heritage Convention.
Trentino, officially the autonomous province of Trento, is an autonomous province of Italy in the country's far north. Trentino and South Tyrol constitute the region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, an autonomous region under the constitution. The province is composed of 166 comuni. Its capital is the city of Trento (Trent). The province covers an area of more than 6,000 km2 (2,300 sq mi), with a total population of 541,098 in 2019. Trentino is renowned for its mountains, such as the Dolomites, which are part of the Alps.
Lino Lacedelli was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of K2.
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climbers climb solo without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities.
A via ferrata is a protected climbing route found in the Alps and certain other Alpine locations. The protection includes steel fixtures such as cables and railings to arrest the effect of any fall, which the climber can either hold onto or clip into using climbing protection. Some via ferrata can also include steel fixtures that provide aid in overcoming the obstacles encountered, including steel ladders and steel steps. The term "via ferrata" is used in most countries and languages except notably in German-speaking regions, which use Klettersteig—"climbing path".
Riva del Garda is a town and comune in the northern Italian province of Trento of the Trentino Alto Adige region. It is also known simply as Riva and is located at the northern tip of Lake Garda.
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo, also called the Drei Zinnen ; pronounced[ˌdʁaɪˈtsɪnən] ), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. The three peaks, from east to west, are:
Cimon della Pala, sometimes called Cimone and The Matterhorn of the Dolomites, is the best-known peak of the Pale di San Martino group, in the Dolomites, northern Italy. Although it is not the highest peak of the group, the Cima Vezzana being a few metres higher, its slender point, which can be seen from the Rolle Pass, dominates the landscape.
Cristallo is a mountain massif in the Italian Dolomites, northeast of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the province of Belluno, Veneto, northern Italy. It is a long, indented ridge with four summits higher than 3,000 metres. The mountain range is part of the Ampezzo Dolomites Natural Park.
The Col di Lana is a mountain of the Fanes Group in the Italian Dolomites. The actual peak is called Cima Lana and situated in the municipality of Livinallongo del Col di Lana in the Province of Belluno, Veneto region.
The Pragser Wildsee, or Lake Prags, Lake Braies is a natural lake in the Prags Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy. It belongs to the municipality of Prags which is located in the Prags Valley.
The Garda Mountains, occasionally also the Garda Hills, are an extensive mountain range of the Southern Limestone Alps in northern Italy.
Leonardo Emilio Comici was an Italian mountain climber and caver. He made numerous ascents in the Eastern Alps, particularly in the Dolomites and in the Julian Alps. Comici was nicknamed the "Angel of the Dolomites".
Alessandro Gogna is a mountaineer, adventurer and mountain guide from Italy.
Beatrice Tomasson was an English mountaineer. She climbed extensively in the Dolomites and made the first ascent of the south face of the Marmolada in 1901.
The White War is the name given to the fighting in the high-altitude Alpine sector of the Italian front during the First World War, principally in the Dolomites, the Ortles-Cevedale Alps and the Adamello-Presanella Alps. More than two-thirds of this conflict zone lies at an altitude above 2,000m, rising to 3905m at Mount Ortler. In 1917 New York World correspondent E. Alexander Powell wrote: “On no front, not on the sun-scorched plains of Mesopotamia, nor in the frozen Mazurian marshes, nor in the blood-soaked mud of Flanders, does the fighting man lead so arduous an existence as up here on the roof of the world.”
Alta via 2 is a high route located in the Italian Dolomites between Brixen (Bressanone) in the north and Croce d’Aune near Feltre in the south.
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