High Mountain Military Group

Last updated
High Mountain Military Group
Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne
GMHM Logo.jpg
Logo of the website of the GMHM.
Active1976–present
Country Flag of France.svg France
Branch Logo of the French Army (Armee de Terre).svg French Army
TypeMountain and Cold-weather warfare experts.
Roleinternational prestige, formation, experimentation
Size10
Part of 27th Mountain Infantry Brigade, High Mountain Military School
Garrison/HQ Chamonix
Nickname(s)Le Groupe
ColorsWhite, red and blue
Website https://www.gmhm.fr/

The High Mountain Military Group (French : Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne, GMHM) is composed of ten men. It represents. It constitutes the leading team for mountaineering and long-distance expeditions of the French Army. [1]

Contents

The mission of the group is responsible for research and experimentation in controlling extreme physical and climatic conditions. It also participates in training of the mountain units and represent the french mountain units abroad. [2]

They collaborate with various brands to make better equipment for the army. [3] [4]

History

Jean-Claude Marmier, the first commander of the group. JCM.tif
Jean-Claude Marmier, the first commander of the group.

The French Armed Forces are pioneer in the domain of exploration and adventure, especially in mountain area. The captain Clerc of the 159th battalion of alpine infantry, in Briançon introduced the practice of skiing in the army in 1902 by creating the first french ski school. Later, in 1932, the High Mountain Military School [5] was founded in Chamonix, it was the first national school to provide mountaineering education. [6]

In the 1970s, the general Laurens, commander of the new 27th Mountain Infantry Brigade decided to create a small military unit of mountaineering experts capable of competing with the bests in order to realize great mountaineering missions on mountain ranges around the world. He gave this mission to the captain Jean Claude Marmier. [6]

The selection of the first men to join the unit took place in September 1976, its number of members is fixed to ten. [6]

1976-1981 : training in the Alps

During the period, the group traveled the Alps to perfect the basic skills of a mountaineer. Nothing was, left to chance as versatile and efficient mountaineers where needed. [6]

1981-1986 : first distant expeditions

The group already performed an expedition in Greenland in 1978 [7] but the period of exploration outside of the Alps really started in 1981 with the ascension of the Tibetan side of the Everest, this expedition failed although they reached 8400 m. The following years, they accomplish many successes, in the Baffin Island, the Thalay Sagar, in Alaska, on the Kamet and on the south face of the Gyachung Kang. [6]

1986-1993 : experimentation of the third dimension

In 1986, Jean Claude Marmier leaves the command of the Group to take the command of the High Mountain Group  [ fr ] and later of the presidency French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing. He is replaced by the captain Alain Estève who was one of the first members of the group. With his lead, the GMHM experiments paragliding, hang gliding and free fall. In 1984, the group realized its first eight-thousander with the ascension of the Lhotse. In 1992, they broke the world speed record for the ascend of the Aconcagua. [6]

1993-1999 : The three poles challenge

The group at the South pole. Pole sud.tif
The group at the South pole.

In 1993, after ascending the Everest, Alain Estève decided to continue with the exploration of the North and South poles. [8] In 1996, they reached the North Pole after 970 kilometres (600 mi) in complete autonomy and the South Pole has been reached and the Three Poles Challenge completed in 1999 after a raid of 1,350 kilometres (840 mi) without th commandant Estève who was victim of a fatal fall in Norway in 1997. [6]

2000-2004 : the return to the mountains

In 2001, they opened a way in the Baffin island on a peak named after Alain Estève. They achieved the 2nd ascension of the Mont Ross in the Kerguelen Islands, 25 yearsafter the first ascension by the French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing. [6]

In 2002, the Group made several openings in the massif of Garhwal in India (Arwa Tower, Arwa Spire, Arwa Crest) and the Minya Konka in China. In 2003, an accident causes the death of captain Choudens and lieutenant Renard on the Shishapangma. [6]

2005-2010 : The seven continents challenge

The new objective of the group is to represent the seven kind of modern alpinism all around the world. As a part of this project, they went to Mali in January 2005 to open seven ways of free climbing on the Hand of Fatima and the Mount Hombori, then in Chilean Patagonia the group opened a mixed climbing way on the Hombro-Norte. [9]

2011 : Sur le fil de Darwin

Members of the group resting during the expedition on the cordillera Darwin. Darwin GMHM.jpg
Members of the group resting during the expedition on the cordillera Darwin.

In October 2011, six members of the group became the firsts to cross the 180 kilometres (110 mi) of the Cordillera Darwin and in 29 days. [10] [11] [12]

2012 : Kamet

Six month after returning from the Cordillera Darwin, they returned to the Kamet with 4 alpinists. The group had already opened a way there with Jean-Claude Marmier. The new way, « Spicy game », is a success and the subject of a Piolets d'Or. [13] [6]

2013-2014 : Shishapangma

In 2013 The groups returns to the Shishapangma, scene of a disaster that shook the group ten years earlier. That year, bad weather and differences in motivation within the team force the group to retreat. The next spring they return to this mountain and ascend successfully the south face of the Kamet. [14]

2015 : Annapurna

In 2015, the group decided to ascend the Annapurna, but after a long and intense training, bad weather blocks them from ascending. [6]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eight-thousander</span> Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in an altitude known as the death zone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kamet</span> Mountain in Uttarakhand, India

Kamet is the second-highest mountain in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India, after Nanda Devi. It is the 29th highest mountain in the world. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand. Its appearance resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alan Hinkes</span> British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders, which he did on 30 May 2005.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jean-Christophe Lafaille</span> French mountaineer

Jean-Christophe Lafaille was a French climber noted for a number of difficult ascents in the Alps and Himalaya, and for what has been described as "perhaps the finest self-rescue ever performed in the Himalaya", when he was forced to descend the mile-high south face of Annapurna alone with a broken arm, after his climbing partner had been killed in a fall. He climbed eleven of the fourteen eight-thousanders, many of them alone or by previously unclimbed routes, but disappeared during a solo attempt to make the first winter ascent of Makalu, the world's fifth highest mountain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piolets d'Or</span> International mountaineering award

The Piolets d'Or is an annual mountaineering and alpine climbing award organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), and previously with co-founder Montagnes Magazine, since its founding in 1992. Golden ice axes are presented to the annual winners at a weekend awards festival based on their achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor and is referred to as the "Oscars of mountaineering".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cordillera Darwin</span> Chilean mountain range

The Cordillera Darwin is an extensive mountain range mantled by an ice field that is located in Chile.

Michael Fowler is a British rock climber, ice climber, mountaineer and climbing author. He is internationally noted for his alpine climbing and was awarded the Piolet d'Or three times, with Paul Ramsden, in 2003, 2013, and 2016, for alpine-style first ascents of faces in the Himalayas. Fowler was one of the first British rock climbers to free an E6-graded traditional rock climbing route, and the first ice climber to free a consensus grade VI mixed Scottish winter route.

A mountain leader is a military professional specialising in delivering training for, or leading, operations in high altitude and / or extremely low temperature environments.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jean Troillet</span> Swiss mountaineer

Jean Troillet is a professional mountain climber.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Catherine Destivelle</span> French rock climber and mountaineer

Catherine Destivelle is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by winning the first major female climbing competitions, and by being the first female to redpoint a 7c+/8a sport climbing route with Fleur de Rocaille in 1985, and an 8a+ (5.13c) route with Choucas in 1988. During this period, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world along with Lynn Hill, however, in 1990 she retired to focus on alpine climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ueli Steck</span> Swiss mountaineer and rock climber (1976–2017)

Ueli Steck was a Swiss rock climber and alpinist. He was the first to climb Annapurna solo via its South Face, and set speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. He won two Piolet d'Or awards, in 2009 and 2014. Having previously summitted Mount Everest, Steck died on 30 April 2017, after a fall during an acclimatizing climb for an attempt on the Hornbein route on the West Ridge of Everest without supplemental oxygen.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traverse (climbing)</span> Section of lateral movement on a climbing route

In climbing and mountaineering, a traverse is a section of a climbing route where the climber moves laterally, as opposed to in an upward direction. The term has broad application, and its use can range from describing a brief section of lateral movement on a pitch of a climbing route, to large multi-pitch climbing routes that almost entirely consist of lateral movement such as girdle traverses that span the entire rock face of a crag, to mountain traverses that span entire ridges connecting chains of mountain peaks.

Kazuya Hiraide from Fujimi, Nagano Prefecture, is a Japanese ski mountaineer, Alpine climber, and professional mountain cameraman. Hiraide has won the Piolet d'Or mountaineering award on three occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Henri Cordier (mountaineer)</span> French mountaineer

Henri Cordier or Henry Cordier was a French mountaineer. In his short two-year career, he became the first Frenchman to reach the level of the English members of the Alpine Club, in the silver age of alpinism in the second half of the 19th century, which was dominated by the development of mountaineering in the Alps. With some of the Alpine Club's mountain guides and mountaineers, he led significant first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif and in the Dauphiné Alps.

Alex MacIntyre (1954–1982) was a British mountaineer in the 1970s. He is known for developing new climbing techniques that enabled ascents not previously accomplished.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marcos Couch</span> Argentine mountain climber

Marcos José Couch, Argentine mountain climber, known for his professional achievements in mountains such as the Shishapangma in Tibet, or the Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Since 1987 he is a mountain guide and has been working internationally.

The École militaire de haute montagne (ÉMHM) is a training establishment of the French Army, that trains French and allied service personnel in mountain warfare, skiing, mountain leadership, and arctic warfare.

The 14th Military Division was a division sized unit of the Vichy France army. The division was formed in late 1940 and demobilized in late 1942. It was under the control of the 1st Military Corps and controlled units in East France notably on the Swiss border.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">George Lowe (climber)</span> American rock climber and alpinist

George Henry Lowe III is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for his alpine style ascents of difficult and infrequently repeated routes, and his development of traditional climbing routes in the Western United States. He pioneered winter ascents in the North American Rockies along with cousins Jeff Lowe (climber), Mike Lowe, and Greg Lowe. He is also known for his technically difficult ascents of mixed climbing faces in the Himalayas including the North Ridge of Latok I and the first ascent of the East Face of Mount Everest, where the "Lowe Buttress" bears his name. Lowe is currently a resident of Colorado.

Kei Taniguchi was a Japanese mountaineer. Her accomplishments included climbing new technical routes on various mountains in Alaska, Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and China.

References

  1. "GROUPE MILITAIRE DE HAUTE MONTAGNE". alpinemag.fr (in French). Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  2. "Groupe militaire de haute-montagne". reserviste-montagne.com (in French). Retrieved 22 July 2024.
  3. "Innovations". gmhm.fr (in French). Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  4. "Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (High Mountain Military Group)". millet.com. Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  5. "École militaire de haute montagne". Ministère des Armées (in French). 6 September 2019. Archived from the original on 13 May 2021. Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  6. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 "30 ans d'expéditions". gmhm.fr (in French). 23 April 2010. Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  7. "L'aventure polaire du Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne". Transpol'air (in French). Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  8. "Le Groupe militaire de haute montagne (GMHM)". Inflexion (in French). 2006. pp. 27–31. ISBN   9782110061386.
  9. "Alpinisme: les 7 défis du "commando des cimes"". La Dépêche (in French). 31 December 2008. Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  10. Filleux, Patrick (9 October 2011). "Exploit du GMHM au Chili: "Nous avons toujours été sur le fil de Darwin"". L'Express (in French). Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  11. Henry, Samuel (5 October 2011). "Darwin Cordillera: French mountaineers become first to cross Chilean range in historic climb" . The Telegraph . Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  12. "A travers la cordillère de Darwin". revue-boutsdumonde.com (in French). Retrieved 22 July 2024.
  13. "Le Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM) remporte un Piolet d'or pour l'ascension du Kamet !". www.garmin.com (in French). 31 May 2013. Retrieved 21 July 2024.
  14. Grassaud, Franck (16 March 2014). "Himalaya. Le Shishapangma gravi par la face Sud par le Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne de Chamonix". France 3 Régions (in French). Retrieved 21 July 2024.