Hill 57 is a sandstone-capped hill on the benchland northwest of Great Falls, Montana, United States. The origin of the name is in dispute, but probably derives from an advertisement for "Heinz 57" food products that was created on the hillside in the early 20th century. Hill 57 was home to a small and poverty-stricken community of Cree, Métis, and Ojibwe (also known as Chippewa) Native Americans from about the 1880s to the 1960s. Although much reduced in number, some of these landless Native Americans continue to reside on Hill 57. The extreme economic deprivation of Native Americans in the area led to the term "Hill 57" becoming a symbol and "a byword for urban Indian poverty". [1] [2] This community subsequently became the most widely cited example of "landless Indians" in Montana. [3]
Hill 57 is a low-rise [4] plateau [5] located adjacent to the city limits of Great Falls, Montana, about 2,000 feet (610 m) north of 9th Avenue North/Northwest Bypass on Stuckey Road and abutting to the Valley View neighborhood. [6]
Hill 57 consists of rock belonging to the Colorado Group, [7] a stratigraphic unit consisting largely of shale. [8] Within this group is a subunit known as the Blackleaf Formation (or the Albian Formation), [7] a shale with a small proportion of fine-to-medium grain sandstone. [8] [9] At the bottom of the Blackleaf Formation is another geologic subunit, the Flood Member, [7] a sandstone consisting of layers (from top to bottom) of very hard calcareous sandstone, fissile sandstone with concretions of ironstone or stained limestone, and medium-hard light-colored sandstone. [10] Flood Member rock makes up the majority of the rock beneath Hill 57. [11] A very hard, undefined sandstone structure, described by geologists as "massive" in size, sits atop the hill. [7] [11]
About 65,000 years ago, before the Iowa Period of the Wisconsin glaciation, [12] the Missouri River flowed north rather than east. [13] The river laid down a fluvial terrace [14] consisting of quartzite gravel. [7] [11] A layer of this gravel, about 15 to 20 feet (4.6 to 6.1 m) deep, now covers the top and sides of Hill 57. [7] [11] [lower-alpha 1]
About 15,000 years ago, the Laurentide Ice Sheet blocked the north-flowing Missouri River, creating Lake Great Falls. [16] Lake silt in turn covered this gravel, creating the current topsoil of Hill 57. [7] [11] About 13,000 years ago, the ice sheet retreated and Lake Great Falls drained. [17] This exposed Hill 57, which has retained this form into the current period.
Hill 57 is distinguished from Mount Royal, a somewhat taller adjacent hill/plateau to the north and northwest. [18]
Sources vary widely as to the origin of the name "Hill 57". The most complete version of the name's original was reported by Ralph Pomnichowski in the Great Falls Tribune in 2009, who wrote that, in 1926, Heinz 57 salesman Art Hinck (or Henck) [4] arranged rocks on the hill into the form of a gigantic "57" and then painted them white. [19] Historian Don Peterson relates substantially the same story, although he says the advertisement was created about 1900. [20] Historian Jeanne Eder has written that the advertisement went up during administration of President Theodore Roosevelt, which puts its creation between September 1901 and March 1909. [5] Attorney Ellen Thompson, who has written about the landless Native Americans living at the site, also says that a Heinz 57 salesman arranged rocks on the hill in the form of a giant "57", although she does not say whether they were painted white or not. [21] Others sources agree that the "57" was an advertisement (although they are not specific as to the form it took), [3] [22] [23] while some say that it was "painted" but do not specify whether it was on the grass, on rocks, or took some other form. [24] [25] Historian Matthew Basso does not identify Art Hinck as the creator of the advertisement, but merely says the individual was a "pickle salesman". [25]
Sources agree that the advertisement could be seen for miles. [19] [20]
Two alternative origins for the name "Hill 57" have also been suggested. Historian Ken Robison says that, in addition to the Heinz advertisement, Hill 57 was named for James J. Hill, chief executive officer of the Great Northern Railway and a close friend of Great Falls founder Paris Gibson. [4] In 1969, Representative John Melcher cited "legend" that the hill's name came from the large number of "Heinz 57" cans strewn over the landscape there. [26]
As of 2009, the "57" advertisement could no longer be seen on the hill. [19]
Since the 1920s, students from Great Falls High School have maintain a giant "GF" logo on the side of Hill 57. [27] The logo is composed of whitewashed stones, which GFHS students regularly repaint and keep in place. [28]
Just when the Hill 57 area was occupied by Native Americans is not clear. Some sources put the date at about 1900. [20] [29] A major drought which hit Montana in 1917 (and lasted until 1920) [30] drove many landless Native Americans off the plains and into these settlements near Great Falls. [31]
Initially, landless Native Americans settled on the west bank of the Missouri River south of the Fox Farm neighborhood. But the most permanent settlements were on Hill 57, Mount Royal, along Wire Mill Road in Black Eagle (an unincorporated village on the north bank of the river where the Anaconda Copper smelter was located), [18] near the Great Falls Meat Packing Plant (now demolished, but then located several hundred feet north of 5700 18th Avenue N.), [29] and on the bank of the Missouri River near what is now Sacajawea Island. [31] White residents of Great Falls derided these areas by calling them "moccasin flats". [32]
Winters at the Hill 57 camp were incredibly harsh. [20] While many Native American families survived during the summer by picking food, clothing, and firewood out of the town garbage dump, snow and ice precluded such scavenging during the winter. Many families turned to the county government during the winter, and received minimal assistance that enabled them to survive. [33]
In 1917, at the start of World War I, Anaconda Copper began hiring large numbers of local landless Indians for work in their smelter. [34] [lower-alpha 2] The Great Depression, which began in October 1929, caused copper prices to plunge and the plant closed on May 7, 1932. Angry white workers blamed the Native Americans for taking their jobs and stealing equipment from the plant, and burned the Indian camps around Great Falls to the ground. [35] The vast majority of Native Americans then removed to Hill 57, which at that time was owned by a woman of Native American descent. [25]
By 1937, a number of Native American families had moved from Hill 57 to the unused land north of Wire Mill Road. [36]
Hill 57 was occupied by several hundred Native Americans into the 1970s. [37] As of 2013, however, it was largely deserted. [37] Nevertheless, the landless Native American presence remains strong in Great Falls, with about 3,000 Little Shell Chippewa living in the city. [38]
The Native Americans of Hill 57 and their desperate poverty were the subject of The American Stranger, an hour-long NBC News special report which aired in November 1958. The broadcast harshly condemned the U.S. government's Indian termination policy, and used the Hill 57 community as an example of what the policy would entail. Historian Pamela Wilson has called the broadcast "the most significant interpretation of the termination crisis" ever to air on American television. [39]
Montana is a state in the Mountain West division of the Western United States. It is bordered by Idaho to the west, North Dakota and South Dakota to the east, Wyoming to the south, and the Canadian provinces of Alberta, British Columbia, and Saskatchewan to the north. It is the fourth-largest state by area, the eighth-least populous state, and the third-least densely populated state. Its state capital is Helena. The western half of Montana contains numerous mountain ranges, while the eastern half is characterized by western prairie terrain and badlands, with smaller mountain ranges found throughout the state.
Great Falls is the third most populous city in the U.S. state of Montana and the county seat of Cascade County. The population was 60,442 according to the 2020 census. The city covers an area of 22.9 square miles (59 km2) and is the principal city of the Great Falls, Montana, Metropolitan Statistical Area, which encompasses all of Cascade County. The Great Falls MSA’s population stood at 84,414 in the 2020 census.
The Chippewa Cree Tribe is a federally recognized tribe on the Rocky Boy Reservation in Montana who are descendants of Cree who migrated south from Canada and Chippewa (Ojibwe) who moved west from the Turtle Mountains in North Dakota in the late nineteenth century. The two different peoples spoke related but distinct Algonquian languages.
Fort Assinniboine was a United States Army fort located in present-day north central Montana. It was built in 1879 and operated by the Army through 1911. The 10th Cavalry Buffalo Soldiers, made up of African-American soldiers, were among the units making up the garrison at the fort. Determining that this fort was no longer needed after the end of the Indian Wars, the US Army closed and abandoned it.
Rocky Boy's Indian Reservation is one of seven Native American reservations in the U.S. state of Montana. Established by an act of Congress on September 7, 1916, it was named after Ahsiniiwin, the chief of the Chippewa band, who had died a few months earlier. It was established for landless Chippewa (Ojibwe) Indians in the American West, but within a short period of time many Cree (Nēhiyaw) and Métis were also settled there. Today the Cree outnumber the Chippewa on the reservation. The Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA) recognizes it as the Chippewa Cree Reservation.
The Great Falls of the Missouri River are a series of waterfalls on the upper Missouri River in north-central Montana in the United States. From upstream to downstream, the five falls along a 10-mile (16 km) segment of the river are:
Little Shell Tribe of Chippewa Indians of Montana is a federally-recognized tribe of Ojibwe people in Montana.
Fort Shaw was a United States Army fort located on the Sun River 24 miles west of Great Falls, Montana, in the United States. It was founded on June 30, 1867, and abandoned by the Army in July 1891. It later served as a school for Native American children from 1892 to 1910. Portions of the fort survive today as a small museum. The fort lent its name to the community of Fort Shaw, Montana, which grew up around it.
Lake Great Falls was a prehistoric proglacial lake which existed in what is now central Montana in the United States between 15,000 BCE and 11,000 BCE. Centered on the modern city of Great Falls, Montana, Glacial Lake Great Falls extended as far north as Cut Bank, Montana, and as far south as Holter Lake. At present-day Great Falls, the Glacial Lake Great Falls reached a depth of 600 feet.
The Shonkin Sag is a prehistoric fluvioglacial landform located along the northern edge of the Highwood Mountains in the state of Montana in the United States. The Sag is a river channel formed by the Missouri River and glacial meltwater pouring from Glacial Lake Great Falls. It is one of the most famous prehistoric meltwater channels in the world.
The Pryor Mountains are a mountain range in Carbon and Big Horn counties of Montana, and Big Horn County, Wyoming. They are located on the Crow Indian Reservation and the Custer National Forest, and portions of them are on private land. They lie south of Billings, Montana, and north of Lovell, Wyoming.
Medicine Rocks State Park is a park owned by the state of Montana in the United States. It is located about 25 miles (40 km) west-southwest of Baker, Montana, and 11 miles (18 km) north of Ekalaka, Montana. The park is named for the "Medicine Rocks," a series of sandstone pillars similar to hoodoos some 60 to 80 feet high with eerie undulations, holes, and tunnels in them. The rocks contain numerous examples of Native American rock art and are considered a sacred place by Plains Indians. As a young rancher, future president Theodore Roosevelt said Medicine Rocks was "as fantastically beautiful a place as I have ever seen." The park is 330 acres (130 ha) in size, sits at 3,379 feet (1,030 m) in elevation, and is managed by the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2017 and designated as a certified International Dark Sky Sanctuary in 2020.
The following works deal with the cultural, political, economic, military, biographical and geologic history of pre-territorial Montana, Montana Territory and the State of Montana.
Black Eagle Dam is a hydroelectric gravity weir dam located on the Missouri River in the city of Great Falls, Montana. The first dam on the site, built and opened in 1890, was a timber-and-rock crib dam. This structure was the first hydroelectric dam built in Montana and the first built on the Missouri River. The dam helped give the city of Great Falls the nickname "The Electric City." A second dam, built of concrete in 1926 and opened in 1927, replaced the first dam, which was not removed and lies submerged in the reservoir. Almost unchanged since 1926, the dam is 782 feet (238 m) long and 34.5 feet (10.5 m) high, and its powerhouse contains three turbines capable of generating seven megawatts (MW) of power each. The maximum power output of the dam is 18 MW. Montana Power Company built the second dam, PPL Corporation purchased it in 1997 and sold it to NorthWestern Corporation in 2014. The reservoir behind the dam has no official name, but was called the Long Pool for many years. The reservoir is about 2 miles (3.2 km) long, and has a storage capacity of 1,710 acre-feet (2,110,000 m3) to 1,820 acre-feet (2,240,000 m3) of water.
First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park is a Montana state park and National Historic Landmark in Cascade County, Montana in the United States. The park is 1,481 acres (599 ha) and sits at an elevation of 3,773 feet (1,150 m). It is located about 3.5 miles (5.6 km) northwest of the small town of Ulm, which is near the city of Great Falls. First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park contains the Ulm Pishkun, a historic buffalo jump utilized by the Native American tribes of North America. It has been described as, geographically speaking, either North America's largest buffalo jump or the world's largest. There is some evidence that it was the most utilized buffalo jump in the world. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places on December 17, 1974, and designated a National Historic Landmark in August 2015. The former name of the park was derived from the Blackfeet word "Pis'kun," meaning "deep kettle of blood," and the nearby town of Ulm.
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Little Bear was a Cree leader who lived in the District of Alberta, Idaho Territory, Montana Territory, and District of Saskatchewan regions of Canada and the United States, in the 19th and early 20th centuries. He is known for his participation in the 1885 North-West Rebellion, which was fought in Alberta and Saskatchewan.
The Thermopolis Shale is a geologic formation which formed in west-central North America in the Albian age of the Late Cretaceous period. Surface outcroppings occur in central Canada, and the U.S. states of Montana and Wyoming. The rock formation was laid down over about 7 million years by sediment flowing into the Western Interior Seaway. The formation's boundaries and members are not well-defined by geologists, which has led to different definitions of the formation. Some geologists conclude the formation should not have a designation independent of the formations above and below it. A range of invertebrate and small and large vertebrate fossils and coprolites are found in the formation.
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Marjorie Bear Don't Walk is an Ojibwa-Salish health care professional and Native American fashion designer. She is most known as an advocate for reforms in the Indian Health Service, and specifically the care of urban Native Americans. In addition, she is a fashion designer who has targeted career women, designing professional attire which incorporated traditional techniques into her clothing.
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