Inchgarvie

Last updated

Inchgarvie
InchgarvieBridge.jpg
Inchgarvie Island, showing position and size relative to the Forth Bridge.
Location
Scotland relief location map.jpg
Red pog.svg
Inchgarvie
Inchgarvie shown within Scotland
OS grid reference NT138795
Coordinates 56°02′N3°14′W / 56.03°N 3.23°W / 56.03; -3.23
Physical geography
Island group Firth of Forth
Area0.83 hectares (89,340 sq ft)
Highest elevation19 metres (62 ft)
Administration
Council area City of Edinburgh
Country Scotland
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Lymphad3.svg
Inchgarvie beneath the Forth Bridge during the latter's maintenance. Inchgarvie.JPG
Inchgarvie beneath the Forth Bridge during the latter's maintenance.

Inchgarvie or Inch Garvie [1] is a small, uninhabited island in the Firth of Forth. On the rocks around the island sit four caissons that make up the foundations of the Forth Bridge.

Contents

Inchgarvie's fortifications pre-date the modern period. In the days when boats were the only way to cross the Firth of Forth, the island was on the main route between North Queensferry in Fife and South Queensferry in Lothian. This made it strategically important. Although now uninhabited, Inchgarvie has been inhabited throughout various periods of history. The first recorded time was in the late 15th century.

Like nearby Inchmickery, its profile and colour makes it look like a small warship from a distance. It was armed with coast defence guns from 1901 until 1906, and again from 1908 until the 1930s.

Etymology

Inchgarvie's name is Gaelic in origin and means either "rough island" (from innis garbh) [2] or "island of the rough place" (from innis gharbhaidh). [3] An older theory links it to the Scots word "garvie", which refers to the sprat. [4] [5] [6] A commercial sprat fishery took place in the inner Forth until it was prohibited in 1983. [7]

History

Records of Danish attacks on nearby islands, particularly Inchcolm as well as Fife and Lothian may mean that it was used in some capacity by them.[ citation needed ]

The island was licensed by King James IV to John Dundas of Dundas [note 1] with the power to build a fort on 20 March 1491. [9] [10] John Dundas did not build the castle, and James IV himself ordered a strong tower to be built in 1513. [10]

On 8 March 1514 Margaret, the widow of William Dundas of Dundas, undertook to manage the completion of the fortress that James IV and her father-in-law had begun building on her island. [11] From 23 December 1514, Charles Dennison, Captain of Inchgarvie managed and fed a large royal construction team. The master mason was John of Cumbernauld, with his "servitor" John Strathauchin, who directed eight other masons and ten labourers. Margaret, Lady of Dundas gave them two boats. Two 'serpentine' guns and guns from Colstone were placed on the island after a visit by artillery experts in July 1515, and the island was equipped with a "blawing horne." There was also a chapel. [12] The Laird of Dundas was paid £33 for repairing the fortress in March 1533. [13]

The fort was captured by Richard Brooke in the Galley Subtile on 6 May 1544 during an attack on Edinburgh and demolished a week later. [14] The English commander Lord Hertford wrote that it would have been useful to garrison Inchgarvie, but his orders from Henry VIII would not allow it. [15] In 1547, after the Battle of Pinkie Cleugh, Inchcolm and Inchkeith were fortified by the English, and held for two years; it is possible that Inchgarvie was fortified at this period too.

Prison

Between 1519 and 1671, the castle was used as a prison, and in 1580 Inchkeith and Inchgarvie were made a place of exile for the plague-stricken by order of the Privy Council. [16] On 6 September 1627, the Laird of Dundas was invited to meet the Privy Council at South Queensferry and discuss building a modern fort on the island. [17] Like Inchkeith, Inchgarvie had a quarantine hospital, and a prison. Oliver Cromwell had this demolished.

During the reign of Charles II as King of Scots, the island was subject to continued maintenance for defensive purposes. The island was inspected by Charles in 1651 before falling into disrepair after his army was defeated by Oliver Cromwell at the Battle of Worcester.

In 1707 the island is known to have been rented to Archibald Primrose, 1st Earl of Rosebery. In 1779, however, the island's fortifications were renewed once more, in response to the threat posed by John Paul Jones, American Naval Commander, who harassed British ships from a base in the Forth. [18] [ failed verification ] These fortifications were never used in anger.

During the Napoleonic period, the threat from the sea meant gun batteries were created in 1806. [19]

Forth Bridge

Construction of the Inchgarvie cantilever of the Forth Bridge Forth Bridge - Inchgarvie cantilever, three-fourths full height.jpg
Construction of the Inchgarvie cantilever of the Forth Bridge

In 1878 the foundations for Thomas Bouch's Forth Bridge were laid on Inchgarvie (and their bricks remain), but after the Tay Bridge Disaster, these plans were abandoned, and the island languished until the west end of the island was extended with a pier, and used as the foundation for one of the Forth Bridge's cantilevers. The island, due to its proximity to the bridge, was also used as a construction office for the bridge, as well as accommodation for its workers within the re-roofed castle buildings. Some of the stone from the former castle was used to help build the caissons of the Forth Bridge.

Defence operations

The island became of renewed importance to the security of the Firth of Forth at the beginning of the 20th century. It was armed with two 12-pdr guns in 1901, in conjunction with gun emplacements on the mainland to the north (at North Queensferry) and to the south (at Dalmeny). Although the island's guns were removed from the approved armament in 1906, they were re-instated in 1908. The number of guns was increased to four in the early months of the First World War. The island's guns were removed from the approved armament of the Forth in the early 1930s.

The guns may have survived for drill and practice until the beginning of the Second World War, during which the island was armed only with machine guns. The island's defences were intended (until 1905) to cover the controlled minefield laid across the river and later to tackle fast-moving torpedo boats attempting to enter the naval anchorage above the Forth Bridge or to damage the lock gates of the Rosyth Dockyard.

Geology

Inchgarvie is of igneous origin, and partly made up of picrite. Studies of the landscape beneath the waters of the firth have revealed that the visible surface of Inchgarvie is only the top of a larger crag and tail structure similar in structure to Edinburgh Castle and the Royal Mile created by glacial action. [20] [21] [22]

See also

Notes

  1. Other sources suggest it was his father, Sir Archibald Dundas [8]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aberdour</span> Human settlement in Scotland

Aberdour is a scenic and historic village on the south coast of Fife, Scotland. It is on the north shore of the Firth of Forth, looking south to the island of Inchcolm and its Abbey, and to Leith and Edinburgh beyond. According to the 2011 census, the village has a population of 1,633.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fife</span> Council area of Scotland

Fife is a council area, historic county, registration county and lieutenancy area of Scotland. It is situated between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth, with inland boundaries with Perth and Kinross and Clackmannanshire. By custom it is widely held to have been one of the major Pictish kingdoms, known as Fib, and is still commonly known as the Kingdom of Fife within Scotland. A person from Fife is known as a Fifer. In older documents the county was very occasionally known by the anglicisation Fifeshire.

Firth is a word in the English and Scots languages used to denote various coastal waters in the United Kingdom, predominantly within Scotland. In the Northern Isles, it more often refers to a smaller inlet. It is linguistically cognate to Scandinavian fjord and fjard, with the original meaning of "sailable waterway". The word has a more constrained sense in English. Bodies of water named "firths" tend to be more common on the Scottish east coast, or in the southwest of the country, although the Firth of Clyde is an exception to this. The Highland coast contains numerous estuaries, straits, and inlets of a similar kind, but not called "firth" ; instead, these are often called sea lochs. Before about 1850, the spelling "Frith" was more common.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Firth of Forth</span> Estuary of Scotlands River Forth

The Firth of Forth is the estuary, or firth, of several Scottish rivers including the River Forth. It meets the North Sea with Fife to its north and Lothian to its south.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Queensferry</span> Human settlement in Scotland

North Queensferry is a historic coastal village in Fife, Scotland, situated on the Firth of Forth, 9 mi (14 km) from Edinburgh city centre. Located on the North Queensferry Peninsula, it is the southernmost settlement in Fife.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">South Queensferry</span> Human settlement in Scotland

Queensferry, also called South Queensferry or simply "The Ferry", is a town to the west of Edinburgh, Scotland. Traditionally a royal burgh of West Lothian, it is now administered by the City of Edinburgh Council. It lies ten miles to the north-west of Edinburgh city centre, on the shore of the Firth of Forth between the Forth Bridge, Forth Road Bridge and the Queensferry Crossing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Inchcolm</span>

Inchcolm is an island in the Firth of Forth in Scotland. The island has a long history as a site of religious worship, having started with a church, which later developed into a monastery and a large Augustine Abbey in the mid 13th century. It was repeatedly attacked by English raiders during the Wars of Scottish Independence, and was later fortified extensively with gun emplacements and other military facilities during both World Wars to defend nearby Edinburgh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Inchkeith</span> Island in Scotland

Inchkeith is an island in the Firth of Forth, Scotland, administratively part of the Fife council area.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Inchmickery</span> Uninhabited island in the Firth of Forth, Scotland

Inchmickery is a small island in the Firth of Forth in Scotland. It is about two miles (3.2 km) north of Edinburgh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cramond Island</span> Tidal island in the Firth of Forth in eastern Scotland

Cramond Island is one of several islands in the Firth of Forth in eastern Scotland, near Edinburgh. It lies off the foreshore at Cramond. It is 13 mile (0.54 km) long and covers 19.03 acres (7.70 ha). The island is part of the Dalmeny Estate, owned by the Rosebery Estates Partnership.

The Forth Estuary Transport Authority (FETA) was the authority responsible for the maintenance of the Forth Road Bridge over the Firth of Forth in eastern central Scotland. FETA was created in 2001 by the Transport (Scotland) Act 2001 - to replace the Forth Road Bridge Joint Board.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dalmeny</span> Human settlement in Scotland

Dalmeny is a village and civil parish in Scotland. It is located on the south side of the Firth of Forth, 1 mile (1.6 km) southeast of South Queensferry and 8 miles (13 km) west of Edinburgh city centre. It lies within the traditional boundaries of West Lothian, and falls under the local governance of the City of Edinburgh Council. Dalmeny is on the route used as the X99 Queensferry off-service loop.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Islands of the Forth</span> Group of islands in the Firth of Forth, Scotland

The Islands of the Forth are a group of small islands located in the Firth of Forth and in the estuary of the River Forth on the east coast of Scotland. Most of the group lie in the open waters of the firth, between the Lothians and Fife, with the majority to the east of the city of Edinburgh. Two islands lie further west in the river estuary.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Forth Bridge</span> Railway bridge over the Firth of Forth in Scotland

The Forth Bridge is a cantilever railway bridge across the Firth of Forth in the east of Scotland, 9 miles west of central Edinburgh. Completed in 1890, it is considered a symbol of Scotland, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was designed by English engineers Sir John Fowler and Sir Benjamin Baker. It is sometimes referred to as the Forth Rail Bridge, although this is not its official name.

The Firth of Forth was historically crossed by ferry until the opening of the Forth Road Bridge in 1964.

The Dunfermline and Queensferry Railway was a railway company founded to form part of a rail and ferry route between Dunfermline and Edinburgh, in Scotland. It was authorised in 1873 and its promoters had obtained informal promises from the larger North British Railway that the NBR would provide financial help, and also operate the ferry and the necessary railway on the southern side of the Firth of Forth.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Loony Dook</span>

The Loony Dook is an annual event held on New Year's Day in which people dive into the freezing waters of the Firth of Forth at South Queensferry, often in fancy dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Braefoot Battery</span>

The Braefoot Battery was a World War I coastal defence gun battery defending the Firth of Forth. The battery was constructed in 1915 at Braefoot Point, then part of the Earl of Moray's Donibristle Estate. The site is situated between the new town of Dalgety Bay and Aberdour in Fife.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Downing Point Battery</span>

The Downing Point Battery was a World War I coastal gun battery defending the Firth of Forth. The battery was constructed in 1914 at Downing Point, then part of the Earl of Moray's Donibristle Estate. The site is now situated within the new town of Dalgety Bay in Fife.

Coastal fortifications in Scotland played a vital role during the World Wars, protecting shipping as they mustered to convoy. New fortifications were built and old defences were also rebuilt or strengthened around the Scottish coast in case of invasion. New technologies like Radar were also deployed.

References

Citations

  1. "Inch Garvie". Ordnance Survey . Retrieved 7 February 2019.
  2. MacDonald, Angus (1937). Place-Names of the County of West Lothian (PhD). Edinburgh University. p. 324.
  3. "Gaelic Place Names F-J" (PDF). Scottish Parliament. 2003. Archived from the original (PDF) on 17 May 2017. Retrieved 23 March 2021.
  4. "Fife and Kinross-shire volume 76". Scotland's Places. Retrieved 10 March 2021.
  5. "Garvie". Dictionaries of the Scots Language. Retrieved 10 March 2021.
  6. Moule, Thomas (1842). Heraldry of Fish. Notices of the Principal Families Bearing Fish in their Arms. John Van Voorst. p. 162. Retrieved 22 March 2021.
  7. "Fife Fisheries Development Group Calls Time on Fight for Sprats". Fife Council. Retrieved 10 March 2021.
  8. Burke, J. (1837). A Genealogical and Heraldic History of the Landed Gentry; Or, Commoners of Great Britain and Ireland Etc. - London, Henry Colburn 1837-1838. Henry Colburn. p.  643 . Retrieved 7 January 2015.
  9. Macleod, Walter (1897). Royal Letters, from the family papers of Dundas of Dundas. Edinburgh. pp. lvii–lix.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  10. 1 2 "Inch Garvie Castle". CANMORE. Retrieved 31 May 2014.
  11. Macleod, Walter, Royal Letters, from the papers of Dundas of Dundas (Edinburgh, 1897), lxxiii, citing Acta Dominorum Concillii, 26, f. 43.
  12. Andrea Thomas, Princelie Majestie: The Court of James V (Edinburgh: John Donald), p. 167: Accounts of the Treasurer of Scotland, vol. 5 (Edinburgh, 1903), 20-26.
  13. James Balfour Paul, Accounts of the Treasurer: 1531-1538, vol. 6 (Edinburgh, 1905), p. 161.
  14. David Caldwell, Vicky Oleksy, Bess Rhodes, The Battle of Pinkie, 1547 (Oxbow, 2023), p. 19: Joseph Bain, Hamilton Papers, vol. 2 (Edinburgh, 1892), p. 366.
  15. 'Late Expedition in Scotland, 1544', in Tudor Tracts (London, 1903), 44: Letters & Papers, Henry VIII, vol.19 part 1 (London, 1908), no.472.
  16. Garvie, James, Old and New Edinburgh, (1890), ch.34, p291.
  17. Macleod, Walter, Royal Letters, papers of Dundas of Dundas (Edinburgh, 1897), no. 56.
  18. "Scotland from the Roadside - Inchgarvie". ourscotland.co.uk. Archived from the original on 1 February 2013. Retrieved 20 April 2007.
  19. Pollard, T.; Banks, I. (2008). Bastions and Barbed Wire. Boston. p. 112. ISBN   9789004173606 . Retrieved 7 January 2015.
  20. Corbet, Niall (1999). Management Statement for Inchmickery SSSI. SNH.
  21. Watson, Jeremy (8 April 2007). "Revealed: volcanic island beneath the Firth of Forth". The Scotsman. Retrieved 31 May 2014.
  22. Tyrrell, G. W. (1916). "The Picrite-Teschenite Sill of Lugar (Ayrshire)". Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society. 72 (1–4): 84–131. doi:10.1144/gsl.jgs.1916.072.01-04.09. S2CID   129188570.

56°0′3″N3°23′11″W / 56.00083°N 3.38639°W / 56.00083; -3.38639