Indo-Western clothing

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Indo-Western clothing is the fusion of Western and South Asian fashion. [1]

Contents

History

Until as late as 1961, the beach city of India known as Goa was still under Portuguese control. [2] In fact, the Portuguese did not even formally recognize Indian sovereignty over the city until 1975. [3] Throughout the years India was home to many European colonies, but the two most influential have been the Portuguese and the British. The event that began the colonization process of India was when famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered a trade route into Kerala linking Europe and India. [4] The Portuguese created a lengthy relationship with India that was predicated on the spice trade. [5]

Due to the Portuguese occupation of Goa, the Goan culture and people were heavily influenced by the Portuguese culture. In 1510 Goa experienced the Portuguese conquest of Goa, which resulted in a heavy Christianization of the region. [6] Events like this helped shape the culture of contemporary Goa.

Then from 1782 to 1800, the people of Goa underwent the Goa inquisition. [7] During this time you could be heavily persecuted if you were caught performing non-Christian worship, rituals, or clothing. [7] Goa continued to receive strong Portuguese influence until their decline in the region during the 1800s. Although Goa is now a sovereign state of India, it still retains its Portuguese history and culture. In 2012, Goan designer Wendell Rodricks stated that “Indo-western clothing originated in Goa.” [8]

On December 31, 1600, Queen Elizabeth I formally allowed trade in the East Indies to The Company of Merchants of London Trading into the East Indies. [9] This was a strategic move to compete in the Dutch-controlled spice trade. In August 1858, the British crown formally gained control of India. [10] At this time, Britain had control of most of India, through either direct control or vassal kingdoms. In 1858, the historical Indian independence movement began, which lasted until 1947. At midnight on August 15, 1947, the Indian independence movement came to an end as the Indian Independence Act is signed. The days following the signing of this bill were filled with bloodshed between the different religions of India. [11]

Educated women who held important positions during the British Raj, began to create and wear early Indo western designs. [12] These Indian women began to wear sarees with blouses that had puffy sleeves. These sleeves were much the same as puffy sleeves that were popular in Europe during the Victorian era. [13] After independence, India entered the Golden Age of Cinema, which began to influence fashion and culture. [14] During the 1960s, Indian culture was being influenced by the West, and this was very apparent in films at the time. In movies like An Evening in Paris, the Western influence is very visible through the clothing and setting of the film. The main male protagonist wears Western-styled suits, while the female protagonist wears some Western dresses and some Indo-western clothing.

In the 1960s and 1970s, at the same time as Western fashion was adopting elements of Indian dress, Indian fashion also absorbed elements of Western dress. [15] [16] This practice of mutual appropriation continued throughout the 1980s and 1990s, as multiculturalism in fashion design took hold, with Western designers incorporating traditional Indian crafts, textiles and techniques at the same time as Indian designers allowed the West to influence their work. [15] While middle-class Indian women in migrant communities originally tended to favour Western styles for all occasions in the 1960s and 1970s, they gradually began to wear stylish Indian dress for special occasions as a status symbol equivalent to chic Western fashion. [17] One example of a traditionally Indian garment that has been heavily influenced by Western fashion is the kurta suit, a reversal of the established tradition of Western fashion being influenced by Asian design. [16] Geczy noted that an Indian woman wearing traditional clothing might find herself said to be "imitating" Western fashion, and that the boundaries between East and West in fashion were becoming increasingly blurred. [16]

21st century

Kelly Gale models lingerie while wearing traditional-styled Indian clothing at Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in London, 2014 Kelly Gale 2014.jpg
Kelly Gale models lingerie while wearing traditional-styled Indian clothing at Victoria's Secret Fashion Show in London, 2014

By the first decade of the 21st century, Western styles were well established as part of Indian fashion, with some professional Indian women favoring Western-style dresses over saris for office wear. [17] Fashionable Indian women might take the traditional shalwar kameez and wear the kameez (tunic) with jeans, or the pants with a Western blouse. [17]

Among the youth, there appears to be an enthusiastic approach to combining traditional clothes with a Western touch. [18] With the increasing exposure of the Indian subcontinent to the Western world, the merging of women's clothing styles is inevitable. Many Indian and Pakistani women residing in the West still prefer to wear traditional salwar kameez and sarees; however, some women, particularly those of the younger generation, choose Indo-Western clothing.

The clothing of the quintessential Indo-Western ensemble is the trouser suit, which is a short kurta with straight pants and a dupatta. Newer designs often feature sleeveless tops, short dupattas, and pants with slits. New fusion fashions are emerging rapidly, as designers compete to produce designs in tune with current trends.

Additional examples of the fusion that Indo-Western clothing represents include wearing jeans with a choli, salwar, or kurta, adding a dupatta to a Western-style outfit, and wearing a lehnga (long skirt) with a tank top or halter top. For men Indian traditional Kurta with sports shoes and scarves.

Distinctive elements in Indo-Western fashions

There are various brands popular for manufacturing western clothing for men and women. The most recognized brands are Saffron Lane Co, Manyavar, Masaba Gupta, Rahul Mishra, Manish Malhotra, Nicobar, and Anju Modi. For a budget-friendly option one can shop from Global Desi, Missprint, Jaypore, Bunaai, S&F, Mehar, raas internatiional Clothing Inc, and Utsav Fashion.

Well-known wearers of Indo-Western fashion

A few who are well-known enthusiasts of the hybrid fashion are Indian actress Shilpa Shetty, [18] English actress Judi Dench, Bollywood actresses Aditi Rao Hydari and Sonam Kapoor.

Indo-Western Fashion Designers

See also

Related Research Articles

<i>Kurta</i> Various forms of loose and long shirts or tunics worn traditionally in South Asia

A kurta is a loose collarless shirt or tunic worn in many regions of South Asia, and now also worn around the world. Tracing its roots to Central Asian nomadic tunics, or upper body garments, of the late-ancient- or early-medieval era, the kurta has evolved stylistically over the centuries, especially in South Asia, as a garment for everyday wear as well as for formal occasions.

The Punjabis, are an Indo-Aryan ethnolinguistic group associated with the Punjab region, comprising areas of eastern Pakistan and northwestern India. They generally speak Standard Punjabi or various Punjabi dialects on both sides.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Folk costume</span> Expression of identity through clothing, usually associated with a geographic area

A folk costume expresses a national identity through clothing or costume, which is usually associated with a specific region or period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital, or religious status. If the costume is used to represent the culture or identity of a specific ethnic group, it is usually known as ethnic costume. Such costumes often come in two forms: one for everyday occasions, the other for traditional festivals and formal wear. The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative due to the multiple senses of the word, and in such cases "clothing", "garments" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense.

Clothing in India varies with the different ethnicities, geography, climate, and cultural traditions of the people of each region of India. Historically, clothing has evolved from simple garments like kaupina, langota, achkan, lungi, sari, to rituals and dance performances. In urban areas, western clothing is common and uniformly worn by people of all social levels. India also has a great diversity in terms of weaves, fibers, colors, and the material of clothing. Sometimes, color codes are followed in clothing based on the religion and ritual concerned. The clothing in India also encompasses a wide variety of Indian embroidery, prints, handwork, embellishments, and styles of wearing clothes. A wide mix of Indian traditional clothing and western styles can be seen in India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dupatta</span> Cloth wrap worn as a shawl, scarf, or veil in South Asia

The dupattā, also called chunni, chunari and chundari, is a long shawl-like scarf traditionally worn by women in the Indian subcontinent to cover the head and shoulders. The dupatta is currently used most commonly as part of the women's shalwar kameez outfit, and worn over the kurta and the gharara.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi culture</span> Arts, cuisine, dress, etc. of Punjab

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Pakistani clothing refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by people in the country of Pakistan and by Pakistanis. Pakistani clothes express the culture of Pakistan, the demographics of Pakistan, and cultures from Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, and Kashmir regions of the country. The clothing in each region and culture of Pakistan reflect weather conditions, way of living, the textiles and embroidery used and its distinctive style which gives it a unique identity among all cultures.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shalwar kameez</span> Trousers and tunic worn in South Asia

Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.

Salwar or Shalwar is cloth worn from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately. It is the lower-garment of the Shalwar kameez suit which is widely-worn in South Asia. It is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics, and embroidery. It is also the national dress of Pakistan, and since the later 1960s with the salwar being used in government offices in Pakistan. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition for centuries. Salwar can be distinguished from the Punjabi suthan which is shorter than the salwar. Salwar originated in Central Asia and its use spread to South Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion and clothing in the Philippines</span> Fashion and folk costume of the Philippines

Fashion and clothing in the Philippines refers to the way the people of the Philippine society generally dress up at home, at work, travelling and during special occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi clothing</span> Clothing style associated with people of the Punjab region

In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

Sindhi clothing, originating from the Pakistani province of Sindh, are a part of the Sindhi culture. Sindhi women and men wear the shalwar qameez or the kurta with pyjama. Women also wear sari or ghagra. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez and the kurta, the sari as well as other articles of clothing, Sindhis had their own traditional costumes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent</span> Aspect of history

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent can be traced to the Indus Valley civilization or earlier. Indians have mainly worn clothing made up of locally grown cotton. India was one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used even as early as 2500 BCE during the Harappan era. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the figurines discovered from the sites near the Indus Valley civilisation, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These scriptures view the figures of human wearing clothes which can be wrapped around the body. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.

The traditional clothing of Hyderabad, India has both Muslim and South Asian influences. Men wear sherwani and kurta–paijama and women wear khara dupatta and salwar kameez.

Pathani Suit is an ethnic outfit for men in the South Asian culture. Basically it is a Muslim dress similar to Salwar kameez. It comprises three garments Kurta, Salwaar, and a vest, which is optional. Pashtun suit is popular among men as formal wear and worn on special occasions such as marriages and festivals. It is also called Khan suit and Pashtun suit.

References

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Further reading