McKean Island

Last updated
McKean Island
McKean CoastAKK.jpg
Coast of McKean Island
Kiribati location map.svg
Red pog.svg
McKean Island
Micronesia regions map.png
Red pog.svg
McKean Island
Oceania laea location map.svg
Red pog.svg
McKean Island
Pacific Ocean laea location map.svg
Red pog.svg
McKean Island
Geography
LocationPacific Ocean
Coordinates 03°35′45″S174°07′21″W / 3.59583°S 174.12250°W / -3.59583; -174.12250
Area0.57 km2 (0.22 sq mi)
Administrative divisionKanton
Demographics
Population0

McKean Island is a small, uninhabited island in the Phoenix Islands, Republic of Kiribati. Its area is 57 hectares (140.85 acres).

Contents

Kiribati declared the Phoenix Islands Protected Area in 2006, with the park being expanded in 2008. The 164,200-square-mile (425,300-square-kilometer) marine reserve contains eight coral atolls including McKean Island. [1] [2]

Flora and fauna

McKean's flora and fauna

McKean is roughly oval in shape, and less than one kilometre in diameter. It is ringed by a reef flat, with a beach ridge of coral rock and rubble surrounding the rim, rising to five metres above sea level. The centre of the island is depressed, with a shallow, hypersaline, guano-laced lagoon. Treeless, McKean harbours seven herbaceous species of plants, and the world's largest nesting population of lesser frigatebird (Fregata ariel) with up to 85,000 birds. 29 other species of birds have been described as visiting the island. Historically, the only mammal was the Polynesian rat, now exterminated, which suggests pre-historic discovery by Polynesians. There is also a species of gecko that inhabits the island.

McKean has no sources of fresh water, and no freshwater lens.

Colony of lesser frigatebirds on McKean Island McKean BirdColony AKK.jpg
Colony of lesser frigatebirds on McKean Island

McKean's reefs

Sites on the reef averaged 20% Live Coral Cover, with higher abundance of algae (mainly turf and incipient fleshy algae) as compared to Nikumaroro, coral rubble, and some coralline algae. As at Nikumaroro, branching and encrusting/submassive growth forms predominated, followed by massive corals. [3] Only a small cover of Halimeda was observed while carpeting soft corals ( Sinularia and Lobophytum ) occupied 10% of the bottom of the lagoon. [3]

History

McKean Island was the first of the Phoenix group to be reported and named. It was discovered May 28, 1794, by the British Capt. Henry Barber, of the ship Arthur, while en route from Botany Bay, New South Wales to the northwest coast of America. [4] Sighting the uninhabited island on 28 May, Captain Barber named it "Drummond's Island", plotting it at 3°40'S, 176°51'W. [5] The Albany Sentinel reported that the "small sandy island...is very low and cannot be seen from the deck of a vessel more than five or six miles". [6] It was later renamed 'Arthur Island' and appeared as such in charts of that time. Its coordinates were given as 3°30'S, 176°0'W. [7]

The island was reported and visited by a number of ships in the years following, including the whaleship Japan in 1830 (under Capt. Shubael Chase), Captain Worth (1832) who mistook it for Onotoa and an unknown whaleship in 1834, who named it "Wigram's Island". [8]

It was renamed McKean Island and mapped by commander Charles Wilkes of the US Exploring Expedition on August 19, 1840, after a member of his crew. However, Arthur Island remained suspected and "in need of confirmation" until at least 1871, when it was listed in Findlay's Directory, using the charts of cartographer John Arrowsmith. [7]

McKean was claimed by the U.S. in March 1859, under the American Guano Act of 1856. C.A. Williams promoted the Phoenix Guano Company of New London, Connecticut, to exploit the deposit of guano. Alfred Restieaux was foreman of the excavation operation in 1867. [9] Guano was actively dug and exported from 1859 to 1870. [10] The island was rarely visited after that time.

McKean was later included in the British Gilbert and Ellice Islands colony. The U.K. resigned its claims on the island when it granted independence to the Republic of Kiribati, and the U.S. resigned its claims to Kiribati in the Treaty of Tarawa.

Guano from McKean's Island

"A Cargo of 1200 tons of guano, from McKean's Island, was brought into New London by the ship White Swallow on the 30th ult—the first importation from the Phoenix Guano Islands, discovered by C. A. Williams of New London a year ago. These islands lie in 170 West longitude 3½ south latitude, 2000 miles from the Hawaiian group. Mr. Williams took possession of them according to the law of 1856, and has since received a full title from the government.

"The islands are seven in number, and rich in guano deposits. Mr Williams is a member of the firm of C.A. Williams & Co. Honolulu, and Williams & Haven, New London. The Phoenix Guano Company was organized at New London, to work the guano beds, (which will prove a mine of wealth to the lucky owner) who has thirty or forty men permanently located there. Alfred Goddard is the squatter sovereign "governor" of the territory. When the White Swallow left, the Aspasia of Mystic, and Bowditch of New London were loading at McKean's Island, the only one worked at present." [11]

Phoenix Guano

"This name is the title of a guano from McKean's Island, situated in the neighborhood of Baker and Jarvis Islands and occupied with a similar deposit. A sample representing the cargo of the White Swallow, imported by the general agents, Messrs. Williams and Haven, into this State, at the port of New London, gave me on analysis 23¼ percent of phosphoric acid, equivalent to 50 percent of bone-phosphate of lime, and I have not hesitated to recommend it to our farmers, especially, as I learn that the price will be entirely reasonable, viz: $27.50 per ton, or in quantities over five tons $25 per ton." [12]

Declaration as a bird sanctuary

The island was declared a bird sanctuary in June 1938, and has been a protected area ever since as the McKean Island Wildlife Sanctuary. [13] In addition to natural history expeditions, it was visited in October 1989 by TIGHAR when it was surveyed as a possible landing site of Amelia Earhart. [14]

In 2008, Kiribati proclaimed it to be part of the Phoenix Islands Protected Area, the largest marine protected area in the world. In 2010, the Phoenix Islands Protected Area became the world's largest UNESCO World Heritage Site. In 2002, the wreck of the fishing trawler Chance on McKean released the Asian rat onto the island, which decimated the native populations of storm petrels, blue noddies and other petrels and shearwaters. In 2008 NZAID funded the rat eradication of McKean Island, which was proven successful in late 2009. [15] [16]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Malden Island</span> Island in the central Pacific Ocean

Malden Island, sometimes called Independence Island in the 19th century, is a low, arid, uninhabited atoll in the central Pacific Ocean, about 39 km2 (15 sq mi) in area. It is one of the Line Islands belonging to the Republic of Kiribati. The lagoon is entirely enclosed by land, though it is connected to the sea by underground channels, and is quite salty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nikumaroro</span> Island in the western Pacific

Nikumaroro, previously known as Kemins Island or Gardner Island, is a part of the Phoenix Islands, Kiribati, in the western Pacific Ocean. It is a remote, elongated, triangular coral atoll with profuse vegetation and a large central marine lagoon. Nikumaroro is about 7.5 km (4.7 mi) long by 2.5 km (1.6 mi) wide. The rim has two narrow entrances, both of which are blocked by a wide reef, which is dry at low tide. The ocean beyond the reef is very deep, and the only anchorage is at the island's west end, across the reef from the ruins of a mid-20th-century British colonial village, but this is safe only with the southeast trade winds. Landing has always been difficult and is most often done south of the anchorage. Although occupied at various times during the past, the island is uninhabited today.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Phoenix Islands</span> Central archipelago in Kiribati

The Phoenix Islands, or Rawaki, are a group of eight atolls and two submerged coral reefs that lie east of the Gilbert Islands and west of the Line Islands in the central Pacific Ocean, north of Samoa. They are part of the Republic of Kiribati. Their combined land area is 28 square kilometres (11 sq mi). The only island of any commercial importance is Canton Island. The other islands are Enderbury, Rawaki, Manra, Birnie, McKean, Nikumaroro, and Orona.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Canton Island</span> Atoll in the South Pacific Ocean

Canton Island, previously known as Mary Island, Mary Balcout's Island or Swallow Island, is the largest, northernmost, and as of 2020, the sole inhabited island of the Phoenix Islands, in the Republic of Kiribati. It is an atoll located in the South Pacific Ocean roughly halfway between Hawaii and Fiji. The island is a narrow ribbon of land around a lagoon; an area of 40 km2 (15 sq mi). Canton's closest neighbour is the uninhabited Enderbury Island, 63 km (39 mi) west-southwest. The capital of Kiribati, South Tarawa, lies 1,765 km (1,097 mi) to the west. As of 2015, the population was 20, down from 61 in 2000. The island's sole village, Tebaronga, is located on the northwest point, below the airstrip.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Starbuck Island</span> Uninhabited coral island of eastern Kiribati

Starbuck Island is an uninhabited coral island in the central Pacific, and is part of the Central Line Islands of Kiribati. Its former names include "Barren Island", "Coral Queen Island", "Hero Island", "Low Island", and "Starve Island".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enderbury Island</span> Island of Kiribati in the Pacific Ocean

Enderbury Island, also known as Ederbury Island or Guano Island, is a small, uninhabited atoll 63 km ESE of Kanton Island in the Pacific Ocean at 3°08′S171°05′W. It is about 1 mile (1.6 km) wide and 3 miles (4.8 km) long, with a reef stretching out 60–200 metres. Forming a part of the Canton and Enderbury Islands condominium from 1939 to 1979, the island is now a possession of the Republic of Kiribati.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Canton and Enderbury Islands</span> Former US-British territory in the Pacific

The Canton and Enderbury Islands consist of the coral atolls of Canton Island and Enderbury in the northeastern part of the Phoenix Islands, about 1,850 miles (3,000 km) south of Hawaii in the central Pacific Ocean.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme</span> British colonisation program in the Pacific

The Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme was begun in 1938 in the western Pacific Ocean and was the last attempt at human colonisation within the British Empire.

Gerald Bernard Gallagher was a British government employee, noted as the first officer-in-charge of the Phoenix Islands Settlement Scheme, the last colonial expansion of the British Empire. Gallagher spent much of his career on Nikumaroro, an island notable for its connection to Amelia Earhart.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Birnie Island</span> Uninhabited island of central Kiribati

Birnie Island is a small, uninhabited coral island, 20 hectares in area, part of the Phoenix Island group, that is part of the Republic of Kiribati. It is located about 100 kilometres southeast of Kanton Island and 90 kilometres west-northwest of Rawaki Island, formerly known as Phoenix Island. It lies at 03°35′S171°33′W. Birnie Island measures only 1.2 kilometres (0.75 mi) long and 0.5 kilometres (0.3 mi) wide. There is no anchorage, but landing can be made on the lee shore.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Winslow Reef, Phoenix Islands</span> Underwater feature of the Phoenix Islands, Republic of Kiribati

Winslow Reef is an underwater feature of the Phoenix Islands, Republic of Kiribati, located 200 kilometres (120 mi) north-northwest of McKean Island at 01°36′S174°57′W. It is the northernmost and westernmost feature of the Phoenix Islands, not counting the outlying Baker and Howland Islands. It has a least depth of 11 m (36 ft). The reef is about 1.6 km (1 mi) long east–west, and about half that wide. The bottom is pink coral and red sand.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carondelet Reef</span> Horseshoe-shaped reef of the Phoenix Islands in the Republic of Kiribati

Carondelet Reef is a horseshoe-shaped reef, presumably a submerged atoll formation, of the Phoenix Islands, also known as the Rawaki Islands, in the Republic of Kiribati. It is located 106 kilometres southeast of Nikumaroro, at 05°34′S173°51′W, and has a least depth of 1.8 metres (5.9 ft). It is reported to be approximately 1.5 kilometres (0.9 mi) in length. The sea occasionally breaks over it.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Manra</span> Pacific island of Kiribati

Manra, is one of the Phoenix Islands in the Republic of Kiribati. It lies at 4°27′S171°16′W. longitude, and has an area of 4.4 km2 (1.7 sq mi). and an elevation of approximately six metres. Together with the seven other Phoenix Islands, it forms part of the Phoenix Islands Protected Area,. Charles Darwin visited the island during his five-year voyage (1831-1836), following which in 1842 he published an explanation for the creation of coral atolls in the South Pacific.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Orona</span> Pacific island of Kiribati

Orona atoll, also known as Hull Island, is one of the Phoenix Islands in the Republic of Kiribati. It measures approximately 8.8 km (5 mi) by 4 km (2 mi), and like Kanton, is a narrow ribbon of land surrounding a sizable lagoon with depths of 15–20 metres (49–66 ft). Numerous passages connect the lagoon to the surrounding ocean, only a couple of which will admit even a small boat. Total land area is 3.9 km2 (2 sq mi), and the maximum elevation is nine metres.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rawaki</span> Uninhabited atoll of central Kiribati

Rawaki is one of the Phoenix Islands in the Republic of Kiribati, also known by its previous name of Phoenix Island. It is a small, uninhabited atoll, approximately 1.2 by 0.8 kilometres in size and 65 hectares in area, with a shallow, brackish lagoon that is not connected to the open sea. It is located at 3.721°S 170.712°W.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John T. Arundel</span> Guano and copra entrepreneur

John T. Arundel was an English entrepreneur who was instrumental in the development of the mining of phosphate rock on the Pacific islands of Nauru and Banaba. Williams & Macdonald (1985) described J. T. Arundel as "a remarkable example of that mid-Victorian phenomenon, the upright, pious and adventurous Christian English businessman."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Phoenix Islands Protected Area</span> Marine protected area in central Kiribati

The Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA) is located in the Republic of Kiribati, an ocean nation in the central Pacific approximately midway between Australia and Hawaii. PIPA constitutes 11.34% of Kiribati's exclusive economic zone (EEZ), and with a size of 408,250 km2 (157,630 sq mi), it is one of the largest marine protected areas (MPA) and one of the largest protected areas of any type on Earth. The PIPA was also designated as the world's largest and deepest UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010.

<i>White Swallow</i> Extreme clipper (ship)

White Swallow was an extreme clipper built in Boston in 1853 for the California trade.

Alfred Restieaux (1832–1911) was born in Paris, France, and came from a family of French descent. His grandfather was a French nobleman who escaped the guillotine during the French Revolution. At the age of 16 he migrated to Australia and later he travelled to South America and North America. He later became an island trader in the central Pacific. From 1867 to 1872 he had dealings with Ben Pease and Bully Hayes, two of the more notorious captains of ships and blackbirders that operated in the Pacific at that time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coral reefs of Kiribati</span> Pacific Ocean Island chain

The Coral reefs of Kiribati consists of 32 atolls and one raised coral island, Banaba, which is an isolated island between Nauru and the Gilbert Islands. The islands of Kiribati are dispersed over 3.5 million km2 (1.4 million sq mi) of the Pacific Ocean and straddle the equator and the 180th meridian, extending into the eastern and western hemispheres, as well as the northern and southern hemispheres. 21 of the 33 islands are inhabited. The groups of islands of Kiribati are:

References

  1. Brian Clark Howard (16 June 2014). "Pacific Nation Bans Fishing in One of World's Largest Marine Parks". National Geographic News. Archived from the original on June 19, 2014. Retrieved 15 May 2015.
  2. "Phoenix Islands Protected Area". Government of Kiribati. Archived from the original on December 1, 2007. Retrieved 25 January 2015.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
  3. 1 2 Obura, D. O., Stone, G., Mangubhai, S., Bailey, S., Yoshinaga, A., and Barrel, R. (2011). "Baseline marine biological surveys of the Phoenix Islands" (PDF). Atoll Research Bulletin. 589: 1–61. doi:10.5479/si.00775630.589.1.{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  4. Quanchi & Robson, p 11.
  5. Maude, p 109.
  6. The Albany Sentinel, 28.8.1797, quoted in Maude, p 109.
  7. 1 2 Sharp, p 210.
  8. Maude, p 110.
  9. Resture, Alfred. "Alfred Restieaux Manuscripts – Part 2". Jane Resture. Retrieved 23 March 2013.
  10. Resture, Jane. "McKean Island: Phoenix Group". Jane Resture. Retrieved 23 March 2013.
  11. "A Cargo". The Sailor's Magazine. 31 (July). New York: American Seamen's Friend Society: 346. 1859. Retrieved May 6, 2010.
  12. Johnson, S W, Professor (1860). "Examination of Commercial Fertilizer. Phoenix Guano". Transactions of the Connecticut State Agricultural Society, for the Year 1859. Hartford: Connecticut State Agricultural Society: 35. Retrieved May 6, 2010.{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  13. Edward R. Lovell, Taratau Kirata & Tooti Tekinaiti (September 2002). "Status report for Kiribati's coral reefs" (PDF). Centre IRD de Nouméa. Retrieved 15 May 2015.
  14. King, Thomas F. "McKean Island: Phoenix Group". TIGHAR. Retrieved 23 March 2013.
  15. Jamieson, Regen (18 April 2014). "Removing Rats and Rabbits: An Interview with Ray Pierce". New England Aquarium - Phoenix Islands Blog. Retrieved 25 January 2015.
  16. "Those Dirty Rats: Removing Invasive Species in the Pacific Islands". Government of Kiribati. 16 December 2011. Retrieved 25 January 2015.

Sources