Palampore

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Palempore with peacock design (detail), second half of 18th century, Coromandel Coast. Palempore aux paons (3).jpg
Palempore with peacock design (detail), second half of 18th century, Coromandel Coast.

A palampore or (Palempore) [1] is a type of hand-painted and mordant-dyed bed cover or hanging panel that was made in India for the export market during the eighteenth century and nineteenth century. [2]

Contents

Origins

Palampores were produced on the Coromandel Coast. [3] Palampore were recorded as being traded in Salem in the 18th Century. [4]

The term palampore may come from palangposh, a term for bedcover from Hindi "palang" (bed) and Persian "posh" (cover) [2] [5] or from Palanpur, the northwest Indian trading town. [6]

Antique Quilted Palampore Chintz Indian Textile courtesy of the Wovensouls collection, Singapore Antique Palampore Chintz Indian Textile.jpg
Antique Quilted Palampore Chintz Indian Textile courtesy of the Wovensouls collection, Singapore

Technique

Palampores were mordant-painted and resist-dyed. [7] A palampore was made using the kalamkari technique, whereby an artist drew designs on cotton or linen fabric with a kalam pen containing mordant and then dipped the textile in dye. The dye adhered to the cloth only where the mordant had been applied. This lengthy process had to be repeated for each color in the design. Small details were then painted by hand on the cloth after the dying process was completed. [8]

Analysis indicates that some palampores were produced using chay root dye to create colours in the red and brown range. [9] [10]

Some palampores had embroidery of chain stitch worked in silk thread. [11]

Design

Palampore patterns were usually very complex and elaborate, depicting a wide variety of plants, flowers, and animals, including peacocks, elephants, and horses. Because a palampore was hand-created, each design is unique, but many featured a central flowering tree with a mound at the base where there may be animals. [12] [13]

Design historians have noted the similarities between palampores and crewel embroidery and suggested that English trends may have influenced what East India Company directors commissioned in India. [7] [14]

Palampore made for Persia and the Mughal courts were more likely to be more formal and symmetrical in design. They depicted architectural structures, shrubs and tent interiors. [15]

Use

Palampore was popular in the Mughal and Deccan Courts. The borders of these pieces were block printed while the centre depicted intricate designs, made by hand. [16]

Palampores were exported to Europe and to Dutch colonists in Indonesia and what was then called Ceylon (now known as Sri Lanka). [12] [17] [6] [5]

Palampore were labour-intensive to produce, and the light fabric they were made from is fragile, therefore, the few examples that have survived are often quite valuable today. [6] [18]

Impact

Palampores predated European production of printed-textiles and influenced innovations in chemicals and techniques used in Europe, and improvements in quality. [5] [19] [20]

In a domestic setting, American and European embroiderers cut around Indian printed cotton designs and attached them to quilts. [21]

English printers began to copy palampore designs using block printing methods with a large-scale repeat to create fabric that could be used for curtains or bedding. [21] In France, the Braquenié fabric house produced designs inspired by palampores from the 1800s. [22]

References

  1. ↑ Balfour, Edward (1885). The Cyclopædia of India and of Eastern and Southern Asia, Commercial Industrial, and Scientific: Products of the Mineral, Vegetable, and Animal Kingdoms, Useful Arts and Manufactures. Bernard Quaritch. p. 830.
  2. 1 2 "Palampore". The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 17 July 2024.
  3. ↑ Bose, Melia Belli (6 February 2024). Threads of globalization: Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century. Manchester University Press. ISBN   978-1-5261-6339-4.
  4. ↑ Reddy, Moola Atchi (8 September 2023). East India Company and Trade in South India: Madras, 1746–1803. Taylor & Francis. ISBN   978-1-000-93814-2.
  5. 1 2 3 Greco, JoAnn (February 2004). "Fragile Beauty". Art & Antiques. 27 (2) – via Art & Architecture Source.
  6. 1 2 3 Filler, Martin (April 2001). "Palampores". House Beautiful . Vol. 143.
  7. 1 2 Baumgarten, Linda; Ivey, Kimberly Smith (28 October 2014). Four Centuries of Quilts: The Colonial Williamsburg Collection. Yale University Press. ISBN   978-0-300-20736-1.
  8. ↑ Gupta, Mira (2023). "Lessons in Chemistry". Selvedge (117) – via Art & Architecture Source.
  9. ↑ Houghteling, Sylvia; Shibayama, Nobuko (2019). "Tools of the Master Dyer: Dye Materials in Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century South Asian Painted Cotton Textiles at the Metropolitan Museum of Art". Textile Museum Journal. 46.
  10. ↑ Rosenfield, Yael; Shibayama, Nobuko (2020). "The Color Red: Madder Dyes as Determinants of Provenance in a Group of Kalamkari Textiles". Textile Museum Journal. 47.
  11. ↑ Parekh, Radhi (2023). "When Indian Flowers Bloomed in Distant Lands". Selvedge (112) – via Art & Architecture Source.
  12. 1 2 Bogansky, Amy Elizabeth (2013). Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN   978-1-58839-496-5.
  13. ↑ Barnes, Ruth; Cohen, Steven; Crill, Rosemary (2002). Trade, Temple & Court: Indian Textiles from the Tapi Collection. India Book House. ISBN   978-81-7508-354-7.
  14. ↑ Riello, Giorgio (2009), Riello, Giorgio; Roy, Tirthankar (eds.), "The Indian Apprenticeship: The Trade of Indian Textiles and the Making of European Cottons", How India Clothed the World, The World of South Asian Textiles, 1500-1850, Brill, pp. 309–346, ISBN   978-90-04-17653-9, JSTOR   10.1163/j.ctv2gjwskd.19 , retrieved 17 July 2024
  15. ↑ Maxwell, Robyn (7 August 2012). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Trade, Tradition and Transformation. Tuttle Publishing. ISBN   978-1-4629-0698-7.
  16. ↑ "Kalamkar (or Palampore) - Indian (Eighteenth Century)". Journal of the Royal Society of Arts. 58: 825–827. 29 July 1910.
  17. ↑ Laury, Elise Schebler Roberts, Helen Kelley, Sandra Dallas, Jennifer Chiaverini, Jean Ray. The Quilt. Voyageur Press. ISBN   978-1-61060-536-6.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  18. ↑ Pollard, Maura (September 1998). "Historic Bedcoverings in Brief". Colonial Homes. 24 (4).
  19. ↑ Raman, Alka (May 2022). "Indian cotton textiles and British industrialization: Evidence of comparative learning in the British cotton industry in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries". Economic History Review. 75 (2) – via Business Source Complete.
  20. ↑ Riello, Giorgio (January 2014). "Cotton". History Today. Vol. 64, no. 1.
  21. 1 2 Baumgarten, Linda (2017). "Made in India". Selvedge (76).
  22. ↑ Martin, Hannah (November 2019). "Tree of Life". Architectural Digest. 76 (10) – via Academic Search Complete.
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