Ralf Dujmovits

Last updated
Ralf Dujmovits
BornDecember 5, 1961
OccupationAlpine guide
Known forFirst German to summit all 14 eight-thousanders
Spouse Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (m. 2007–2015) Nancy Hansen

Ralf Dujmovits (born 5 December 1961) is a German mountaineer. In May 2009 he became the 16th person, and the first German, to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

Contents

Early life

Dujmovits was born in 1961 in Bühl, Baden-Württemberg. [1] After completing his Abitur (final school exams) in 1981 he spent a year traveling around South America and climbing in the Andes before commencing his degree in medicine at the University of Heidelberg. [2] [3] He left the university after eight semesters and in 1985 began his training to become a certified mountain guide instead. [3]

Career

Dujmovits' mountaineering career began with the German Alpine Club, where he worked as a guide and led clients on international expeditions including highest mountains on six of the seven continents. [2] He also climbed extensively in the Alps, with and without clients, making successful ascents of the Matterhorn, the Eiger, Mont Blanc, the Grosshorn, Les Courtes, Laliderer, the Reissend Nollen, and peaks in the Engelhorn Range. [3] In 1989, he left the German Alpine Club to start up his own trekking outfitter, Amical Alpin. [3]

Dujmovits began climbing in the Himalaya and Karakorum in the 1990s, starting with successful ascents of Dhaulagiri I (1990), Mount Everest (1992), K2 (1994), Cho Oyu (1995), and Shisha Pangma (1997). [4] He began to attract attention from the wider public in 1999, when his climb of the Eiger's north wall in Switzerland was publicized as a 33-hour-long live television broadcast. [5] Dujmovits went on to summit Broad Peak (1999) and Gasherbrum II (2000), [4] but it was not until he climbed Nanga Parbat in 2001 that he decided to attempt to climb all 14 mountains in the world above 8000 meters ("eight-thousanders"). [1] In 2004, he climbed Annapurna I and Gasherbrum I within a two-month period, followed by ascents of Shisha Pangma (2005), Kangchenjunga (2006), Manaslu (2007), Broad Peak (2007), and Makalu (2008). [4] On 20 May 2009, Dujmovits climbed Lhotse—his final 8000-metre peak—with his former wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Hirotaka Takeuchi and David Göttler. [4] Dujmovits became the 16th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, and the first German person to do so. [5] [6]

Dujmovits returned to Mount Everest in 2012 for the sixth time, attempting to climb it without bottled oxygen (Mount Everest is the only eight-thousander he has not climbed without bottled oxygen). [7] [8] Although he did not reach the summit, while he was descending he took a photo of a long queue of climbers queuing to ascend the mountain; the photo subsequently went viral and was described by Outside magazine as "the year's most iconic photo" and "the image that embodied a disastrous year on Everest". [8] In 2014, he and Darek Zaluski attempted to make the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, but abandoned the expedition, citing dangerous conditions. [9]

Dujmovits has made more than 40 mountaineering expeditions in the Himalaya and Karakorum. [2] In addition to climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, he has completed the Seven Summits challenge, which involves climbing the highest mountains on each continent. [5]

Personal life

Dujmovits lives in the Black Forest, Germany. [5]

In 2007, Dujmovits married his mountaineering partner Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner. [10] They divorced in 2015. [11] Later he married Canadian climber Nancy Hansen. [12]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reinhold Messner</span> Italian mountaineer, adventurer and explorer (born 1944)

Reinhold Andreas Messner is an Italian climber, explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eight-thousander</span> Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in an altitude known as the death zone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alan Hinkes</span> British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders, which he did on 30 May 2005.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Juanito Oiarzabal</span> Basque mountain climber, summiter of all eight-thousanders

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga, commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb the top three summits twice and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old. In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edurne Pasaban</span> Spanish Basque mountaineer

Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer. On May 17, 2010, she became the first woman to climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders – and the 21st person to do so. Her first 8,000 peak had been achieved 9 years earlier, on May 23, 2001, when she reached the summit of Mount Everest. She has also completed the seven summits.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Artur Hajzer</span> Polish mountain climber

Artur Henryk "Słon” Hajzer was a Polish mountaineer. Hajzer summitted seven eight-thousanders, several via new routes and made the first winter climb of Annapurna on February 3, 1987.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Simone Moro</span> Italian mountaineer and alpinist (born 1967)

Simone Moro is an Italian mountaineer known for having made first winter ascents of four of the fourteen eight-thousanders: Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009, Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016. No other climber has made more first winter ascents of an eight-thousander in history. He has summited Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.

Andrew James Lock OAM is an Australian mountaineer. He became the first, and still remains the only, Australian to climb all 14 "eight-thousanders" on 2 October 2009, and is the 18th person to ever complete this feat. He climbed 13 of the 14 without bottled oxygen, only using it on Mount Everest, which he has summited three times. He retired from eight-thousander climbing in 2012.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kinga Baranowska</span> Polish mountaineer (born 1975)

Kinga Baranowska is a Polish mountaineer. She made ascents of nine eight-thousanders and is the first Polish woman to have climbed Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and Kangchenjunga. She has also climbed the seven summits.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anna Czerwińska</span> Polish mountaineer (1949–2023)

Anna Czerwińska was a Polish climber. She is known for being the then-oldest woman to summit Mount Everest, doing so at the age of 50. She also published several books about mountaineering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner</span> Austrian mountaineer

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without using supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. In 2012, she won the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award.

Iván Vallejo is a high-altitude mountaineer from Ecuador. On 1 May 2008, he became the 14th person to reach the summit of all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, and the 7th without use of supplemental oxygen. He is the first, and still the only, Southern Hemisphere climber to complete all 14 eight-thousanders, without supplemental oxygen.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alberto Iñurrategi</span> Basque Spanish mountaineer

Alberto Iñurrategi Iriarte is a Basque Spanish mountaineer born in Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, Basque Country. In the year 2002, he became the second Basque and Spaniard and the 10th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silvio Mondinelli</span> Italian mountaineer

Silvio Mondinelli is an Italian climber. In 2007, he became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to achieve that feat without using supplemental oxygen and the first mountaineer to climb the Seven Summits and the 14 eight-thousanders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Azim Gheychisaz</span> Iranian mountaineer

Azim Gheychisaz is an Iranian climber and summiter of all 14 Eight-thousanders without any supplemental oxygen. Marble Wall peak in Kazakhstan was his first professional climbing in 2000. He is a member of Iranian national mountaineering team. He is considered as one Iran's most influential mountaineers, mentor, and role model to many new generations of elite Iranian climbers such as Andrew Aziz.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Qudrat Ali</span> Pakistani mountaineer

Qudrat Ali is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is a co-founder of Shimshal Mountaineering School, where he gives technical training in mountain climbing. He is also a distinguished member of the Alpine Club.

Tunç Fındık is a Turkish professional climber, mountaineer, mountain guide, author, and motivational speaker.

References

  1. 1 2 ""Entscheidend ist das Durchhaltevermögen" - Extrem-Burmester". Klettern.de. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  2. 1 2 3 "Ralf Dujmovits". Schoeffel.de. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  3. 1 2 3 4 "Ralf Dujmovits". K2News.com. February 2002. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  4. 1 2 3 4 Jurgalski, E. (20 May 2009). "Gerlinde and Ralf summited Lhotse". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  5. 1 2 3 4 "Ralf Dujmovits". LOWA.de. Archived from the original on 7 April 2014. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  6. ↑ Viesturs, Ed (2013). The Mountain: My Time on Everest. Simon & Schuster. p. 298.
  7. ↑ Connolly, Kate (31 May 2012). "Everest mountaineer says crowding by 'hobby climbers' is path to tragedy". The Guardian . Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  8. 1 2 Rosenfield, Scott (1 May 2013). "The Photo that Captured the 2012 Climbing Season". Outside . Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  9. ↑ "Ralf Dujmovits abandons Nanga Parbat winter attempt". PlanetMountain.com. 3 January 2014. Retrieved 2 April 2014.
  10. ↑ Rosenfield, Scott (2013-05-01). "The Photo that Captured the 2012 Climbing Season". Outside Online. Retrieved 2023-07-17.
  11. ↑ "Interview with mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner". www.ispo.com. Retrieved 2024-07-24.
  12. ↑ "Hitchhiking and Honeymooning in Antarctica (PART I)". Aspects. 2019-03-21. Retrieved 2024-07-24.
This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.