List of first ascents (sport climbing)

Last updated

In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first documented redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, big wall (multi-pitch), or boulder route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

Contents

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+  (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air, which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+  (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled. [1] [2]

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

Adam Ondra on Silence Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped.jpg
Adam Ondra on Silence

9c  (5.15d): [lower-alpha 1]

  • Silence (also Project Hard) – Flatanger (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. [5] [6] Remains unrepeated (June 2022).
  • DNA  [ de ] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie , Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (June 2022). [7]

9b+  (5.15c): [lower-alpha 2]

9b  (5.15b): [lower-alpha 3] [lower-alpha 4] [lower-alpha 5]

9a+  (5.15a): [lower-alpha 6] [lower-alpha 7]

9a  (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b): [lower-alpha 8]

8b+  (5.14a): [lower-alpha 9]

8b  (5.13d): [lower-alpha 10]

8a+  (5.13c) [lower-alpha 11]

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre The Face are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

8a  (5.13b) [lower-alpha 12]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (USA) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro  [ fr ]. [9] [33]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Arnould t'Kint. [9] [33]
  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (USA) – 1982 – Third-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Wolfgang Gullich. [33]
  • La Crépinette – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Fourth-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France). [33] [44]

7c+  (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (USA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams. [45]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [33]
  • Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault. [33]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. [33]

7c  (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (USA) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.
  • Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [33] [35]
  • Equinox – Joshua Tree (USA) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by Tony Yaniro  [ fr ]. [33]
  • Chasin' the trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by John Bachar. [33]

7b+  (5.12c)

  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (USA) – 1967 – First 7b+  (5.12c) in history (on contemporary regrading, still very few ascents), flashed by Greg Lowe
  • Paisano Overhang – Suicide Rock, (USA) – 1974 – One of the first-ever consensus 7b+  (5.12c) climbs, by John Long. [33]
  • Super Crack – Shawangunks, (USA) – 1974 – Long considered the first-ever consensus 7b+  (5.12c) by Steve Wunsch. [9] [33] [35]
  • Super Crack – Shawangunks, (USA) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus 7b+  (5.12c), by Ron Kauk. [33]

7b  (5.12b)

7a+  (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s The Thimble.jpg
Thimble, the 1960s

7a  (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

9b  (5.15b): [lower-alpha 13]

9a+  (5.15a):

9a/9a+  :

9a  (5.14d): [lower-alpha 14] [lower-alpha 15]

8c+  (5.14c):

  • Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [9] [71]
  • Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [9]
  • Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [53]
  • Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [53]

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b)  :

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes; they are presented for completeness.

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

7b  (5.12b):

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra. [74]

9a  (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Siurana (ESP) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra. [75] [76]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos. [77]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [78]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [79]

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ] [9]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b. [81]

8a+  (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c  (5.14b): [lower-alpha 16]

  • La Fabelita -– Santa Linya (ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (her flash of Rollito Sharma two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+). [92]
  • Fish eye – Oliana (ESP) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret [93] [94]
  • American Hustle – Oliana (ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret [93]

8b+  (5.14a): [lower-alpha 17] [lower-alpha 18]

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

Free-solo by men

Notable free-solos above 7c  (5.12d) range; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters. [101]

8c  (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Muro di Pizarra , Arco (IT) – December 2019 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52. [102]

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c  (5.12d)

7b  (5.12b)

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A  (V17): [lower-alpha 19] [lower-alpha 20]

8C+  (V16): [lower-alpha 21]

Christian Core on Gioia [fr] Christian Core on Gioia.jpg
Christian Core on Gioia  [ fr ]
  • Gioia  [ fr ] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+  (V16), by Christian Core. [119] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below). [120] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. [121] [122] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. [119] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad). [111] [123]

8C  (V15): [lower-alpha 22] [lower-alpha 23]

8B+  (V14): [lower-alpha 24]

Dreamtime [fr] in Switzerland Dreamtime Boulder in Cresciano - line.jpg
Dreamtime  [ fr ] in Switzerland

8B  (V13):

8A+  (V12): [lower-alpha 25]

8A  (V11):

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range, (USA) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C  (V9), by John Gill. [9] [136]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains, (USA) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by John Long. [9]
  • L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Pierre Richard. [136]
Michael Rael Armas on Midnight Lightning Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg
Michael Rael Armas on Midnight Lightning

7B+  (V8):

7B  (V8):

7A  (V6):

6A  (V3):

Solved by women

8C  (V15):

8B+  (V14):

  • La traversia De Balzola – Balzola, (ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B+  (V14) boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu. [9]

8B  (V13): [lower-alpha 26]

8A+  (V12):

8A  (V11):

7C+/8A  :

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

7B+  (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries, the sections combine overall and female ascents:

Redpointed

9a  (5.14d):

8c  (5.14b):

  • Bellavista  [ it ] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA)– 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; [158] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+. [159] [160]

8b+  (5.14a):

  • Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1991 – First big wall free climb at 8b+  (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ]. [161]
  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second big wall free climb at 5.14a  (8b+), by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat. [162]
  • The "Alpine Trilogy  [ it ]" of 8b+  (5.14a) big wall routes, all freed in 1994:

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

  • Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 7c+  (5.13a), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. [161]

7b+  (5.12c):

  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon, Switzerland – 1984 – First big wall free climb at 7b+  (5.12c), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. [161]

Free-soloed

7c+  (5.13a):

7b+  (5.12c):

7b  (5.12b):

7a+  (5.12a):

Deep-water solo routes

Es Pontas, sea arch in Mallorca, and DWS route, Es Pontas, 9a+. Es pontas 2.jpg
Es Pontàs, sea arch in Mallorca, and DWS route, Es Pontàs, 9a+.

9b  (5.15b) (unconfirmed):

  • Alasha – Mallorca (ESP) – September 12, 2016. First ascent by Chris Sharma, who estimated its grade based on the effort it took to climb it without rope: "If it had bolts on it, it probably wouldn't be a 9b (5.15b). But when you're 60 feet up with no bolts, it takes the same amount of effort.” [173]

9a+  (5.15a):

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history). [3] [4]
  2. ↑ Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Chilam Balam  [ fr ] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+  (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b  (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b". [8]
  3. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga. [17] [18] [19]
  4. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira  [ fr ] (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin  [ fr ] and Lucien Martinez. [20]
  5. ↑ Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love. [21] [22] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+  (5.15a) [23]
  6. ↑ Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a. [28]
  7. ↑ Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+  (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds. [29] [30]
  8. ↑ Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c, [33] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+. [37]
  9. ↑ Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Gullich's Dead Line (1986) in listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+, [33] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b. [38]
  10. ↑ Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel  [ de ]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984, [9] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986. [40]
  11. ↑ Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8b+, [33] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system). [42]
  12. ↑ Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a  (5.13b), [9] but it was clarified as a top rope. [43]
  13. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007), [50] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga. [17] [18]
  14. ↑ Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a. [65] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases. [66]
  15. ↑ Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a. [67]
  16. ↑ Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén  [ cs ]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght, [89] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021. [90] [91]
  17. ↑ Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight, [95] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+  (5.14a)-graded route. [96] [97]
  18. ↑ Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif  [ fr ] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights, [95] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010). [98]
  19. ↑ Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020). [107]
  20. ↑ Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi  [ cs ]'s Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases. [108] [109]
  21. ↑ Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C  (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a  (5.14d). [118]
  22. ↑ Not included in V15: Markus Bock  [ de ]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+  (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C  (V15), [129] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+  (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock. [130] [131] [132]
  23. ↑ Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+  (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C  (V15), one of the world's first; [133] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+). [134]
  24. ↑ Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13  (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017. [137]
  25. ↑ Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+  (V12), [9] but has since been regraded to 8A  (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  26. ↑ Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl  [ fr ]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13  (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it. [150]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dave Graham (climber)</span>

David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing, in 2005 an 8C (V15) boulder problem. He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Rock climb in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).

Steve McClure is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created Rainman, Britain's first-ever 9b (5.15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded 9a (5.14d) and above in Britain. McClure has also been one of the most successful British traditional climbers, and British onsight climbers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yuji Hirayama</span> Japanese rock climber

Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 and in 2000. He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josune Bereziartu</span> Spanish rock climber

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián Puigblanqué</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also climbed many routes of 9a (5.14d) and harder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the 1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Rambla (climb)</span> Rock climbing route, Spain

La Rambla is a 41-metre (135 ft) sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a 35-metre (115 ft) route, the bolting was later extended by Dani Andrada to a 41-metre (135 ft) route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about La Rambla's grade, there is now consensus that it meets the 9a+ (5.15a) threshold. It is an important and historic route in climbing, and is part of the coveted "9a+ trilogy" with Realization and Papichulo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angela Eiter</span> Austrian professional climber

Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber. She is a champion in lead climbing competitions, winning three IFSC Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, from 2004 to 2006 and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight a route graded 9a (5.14d). He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notoriously difficult, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, six 9b (5.15b) routes, and some boulders with a confirmed 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Dura Dura</span> Rock climb in Spain

La Dura Dura is a 50-metre (160 ft) sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a collaboration with Czech climber Adam Ondra led to Ondra climbing the route on 7 February 2013, followed by Sharma on 23 March 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. He was World Champion and World Cup winner in Lead climbing. He has redpointed to 9b+ (5.15c). In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Shubert had won the most men’s IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber and sport climber. He participates in international climbing competitions in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed, and has had his best results in lead climbing. As a rock climber, he had redpointed routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b) and solved boulders at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Rock climb in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When it was first climbed by Czech climber Adam Ondra on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of February 2023, Silence remains unrepeated.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin was regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

References

  1. ↑ "Chris Sharma Turns 40 Today, Happy Birthday!". Gripped.com. 23 April 2021. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  2. ↑ McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside . Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  3. ↑ "Sean Bailey sends Bibliographie at Céüse". PlanetMountain. 3 September 2021. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
  4. ↑ "These are the most difficult climbing routes in the world". LACrux. 16 May 2022. Retrieved 21 November 2022.
  5. ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 4, 2017). "Interview: Adam Ondra climbs world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway" . Retrieved September 4, 2017.
  6. ↑ Van Leuven, Chris (9 September 2017). "Interview: Adam Ondra on What It Took to Climb the World's First 5.15d". Climbing . Retrieved 28 December 2021.
  7. ↑ Walsh, Anthony (5 May 2022). "Seb Bouin Does Potential 5.15d FA, World's Second of the Grade". Climbing . Retrieved 9 May 2022.
  8. ↑ "Jonatan Flor Sends Chilam Balam 5.15a/b, First Climbed in 2003". Gripped. 10 November 2021. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  10. ↑ Dougald MacDonald (4 October 2012). "Adam Ondra Climbs 5.15c in Norway". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012.
  11. ↑ Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi" . Retrieved October 14, 2020.
  12. ↑ Potter, Stephen (8 August 2022). "Seb Bouin Gets Third Ascent of the World's First 5.15c". Climbing . Retrieved 18 November 2022.
  13. ↑ "Ondra Puts Down La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing. Retrieved 7 February 2013.
  14. ↑ "La Dura Complete: The Full Story Of The Hardest Rock Climb In The World". Climbing . 26 March 2014. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  15. ↑ "Ondra Completes Third 5.15c First Ascent". www.climbing.com. 5 December 2013.
  16. ↑ "Jakob Schubert claims third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ at Margalef". PlanetMountain. 9 November 2019. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  17. 1 2 "Ali Hulk extensión total sit start 9a+ (b) by Alex Garriga". 8a.nu. 23 August 2021. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  18. 1 2 "[Translated] Álex Garriga chains 'Ali Hulk extension total sit start' and leaves it at 9a+". Desnivel . 23 August 2021. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  19. 1 2 Potter, Stephen (25 October 2022). "Seb Bouin Claims 4th Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". Climbing . Retrieved 18 November 2022.
  20. ↑ Levy, Michael (24 November 2020). "Fred Rouhling's "Akira," World's First Proposed 5.15b in 1995, Finally Repeated; Downgraded to 5.14d". Rock & Ice . Retrieved 22 June 2022.
  21. ↑ Potter, Steven (18 October 2021). "Matty Hong Sends Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor—Upgrades to 5.15b". Climbing. Retrieved 26 January 2022. When I asked Hong what he thought about it, he said that after breaking roughly half a dozen handholds and 20 footholds off the route in his early attempts, he could say with confidence that the climb had changed, though he couldn't weigh in on how those changes had changed the grade, nor could he measure the impact of the climbers who'd attempted to the climb before him.
  22. ↑ Miller, Delaney (11 November 2021). "Carlo Traversi Makes Third Ascent of Flex Luthor, 5.15b". Climbing. Retrieved 23 June 2022. After breaking multiple holds on the route, Hong upgraded it to 15b, adding that it was unclear just how much the route has changed since it was originally established and how hard it was when Caldwell made the first ascent.
  23. ↑ Potter, Stephen (9 November 2022). "Jonathan Siegrist Repeats 'Flex Luthor,' Skeptical of 5.15b Upgrade". Climbing. Retrieved 21 November 2022.
  24. ↑ "Ethan Pringle Repeats Jumbo Love". Climbing.com. Climbing Magazine. 18 May 2015.
  25. ↑ "Interview: Jonathan Siegrist Goes Big with Third Ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)". 17 May 2018.
  26. ↑ "Adam Ondra climbs Golpe de estado at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 22 March 2010. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
  27. ↑ "Ondra Puts "Neanderthal" (5.15b) to Rest". Rock & Ice . 12 February 2019. Retrieved 16 June 2022.
  28. ↑ "Jakob Schubert repeats Weiße Rose, Alexander Huber Schleierwasserfall masterpiece". PlanetMountain. 30 April 2020. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  29. ↑ Fernandez, Isaac (14 April 2020). "[Translated] 'Akira' and 'Orujo', two cursed tracks". Desnivel . Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  30. ↑ Larrssen, Jens (13 August 2020). "The first 9a+ to 9c" . Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  31. ↑ McDonald, Dougald (15 June 2012). "Open Air: Groundbreaking 5.15 Gets Second Ascent". Outside . Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  32. ↑ Bisharat, Andrew (4 April 2016). "Setting and Revising the Record in Climbing". EveningSends. Retrieved 21 June 2022. The other interesting point about Open Air that's worth mentioning is that the route reportedly contains some rather flaky holds that have broken off over the years. So was the Open Air that Ondra climbed the exact same route that Alex Huber climbed? Maybe, but probably not.
  33. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 "Historical Men's Hardest Sends". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  34. 1 2 "The first 8c+ (8c+/9a) and 9a in history books". 8a.nu. 2021. Retrieved 15 January 2022.
  35. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Jourdain, Philippe (20 October 2020). "[Translated] The history of climbing: the evolution of ratings". Grimper. Retrieved 22 June 2022.
  36. 1 2 3 "Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France's historic first 8c". PlanetMountain. 20 November 2018. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  37. ↑ "Jerry Moffat's Frankenjura Stone Love in Lines Of Legends". PlanetMountain. 18 February 2022. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  38. ↑ "Crag: Klagemauer (Frankenjura, Germany)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 27 June 2022. Dead Line 8b
  39. ↑ "Adam Ondra climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be at Smith Rock / VBlog #8". PlanetMountain. 13 December 2018. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  40. ↑ "[Translated] Geila Macià chained the earliest 8b with 'Blind Flight' at 12 years old". Desnivel . 22 September 2020. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  41. 1 2 3 "Seb Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour". PlanetGrimpeur. 2019. Retrieved 23 June 2022.
  42. ↑ "Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem". PlanetMountain. 8 September 2018. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  43. ↑ John Gill (2003). "Bouldering Companions: Pete Cleveland" . Retrieved 5 January 2022.
  44. ↑ Gerland, Bastien (29 April 2015). "[Translated] I'll go climb with you: Eaux Claires & Gémozac". Grimper. Retrieved 27 June 2022.
  45. ↑ Lucas, James (23 May 2018). "Classic Routes: The Phoenix". Climbing . Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  46. ↑ Williams, Richard C. (1980). Shawangunk Rock Climbs (2nd ed.). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. p. 46. ISBN   0-930410-11-4.
  47. ↑ "Watch Will Mayo Send World's First 5.12b Fish Crack in Yosemite". Gripped. 18 June 2016. Retrieved 29 June 2022.
  48. ↑ Swain, Todd (1995). The Gunks Guide (3rd ed.). Evergreen CO: Chockstone Press. pp. 129, 196. ISBN   0-934641-99-4.
  49. ↑ Stefanello, Vinicio (7 November 2010). "The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2 January 2022.
  50. ↑ "Watch Laura Rogora Climb Ali Hulk Sit Extension Total (5.15b)". Climbing. 3 September 2020. Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  51. ↑ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b" . Retrieved 24 October 2017.
  52. ↑ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b" . Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  53. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 "Climbing Women's Hardest Sends". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  54. 1 2 "Laura Rogora: the 9b/+ Erebor exploit interview". PlanetMountain.com. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 1 January 2022.
  55. ↑ "Eiter's Instagram post on ascending Madame Ching" . Archived from the original on 2021-12-24.
  56. ↑ "Defying gravity: Rock climber becomes first woman to conquer fearsome Austrian route". New York Post. Reuters. 2020-12-18. Retrieved 2021-08-26.
  57. 1 2 3 4 5 Bisharat, Andrew (1 March 2017). "American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing". National Geographic . Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  58. ↑ The Outdoor Journal, ed. (18 September 2017). "Anak Verhoeven Becomes First Woman to Establish a 9a+" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  59. ↑ Rock and Ice, ed. (20 September 2017). "Anak Verhoeven On Making the First Female 5.15a First Ascent" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  60. ↑ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Cédric Lachat repeats Sweet Neuf, Anak Verhoeven's 9a+ and confirms grade" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  61. ↑ Rock and Ice, ed. (25 September 2017). "Margo Hayes Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  62. ↑ "Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+". PlanetMountain. 23 September 2019. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  63. ↑ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Josune Bereziartu and Bimbaluna 9a/9a+" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  64. ↑ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Ashima Shiraishi climbs 9a/9a+ a Santa Linya in Spain" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  65. 1 2 3 "Katherine Choong Climbs Jungfrau Marathon (9a): List of women in the 9a club". LACrux. 18 October 2019. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  66. ↑ Larrsen, Jens (20 April 2018). "Era Vella should officially be called 8c+". 8a.nu. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  67. ↑ "Alizée Dufraisse sends La Reina Mora 8c+/9a at Siurana". PlanetMountain. 24 January 2012. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  68. ↑ planetmountain.com (ed.). "Josune Bereziartu climbs first female 9a (interview)".
  69. ↑ Fox, Amanda (June 2012). "Charlotte Durif Redpoints 5.14d in France". Climbing . Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  70. ↑ "Muriel Sarkany Sending Punt X (5.14d)". Rock & Ice . 2014. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  71. 1 2 planetmountain.com (ed.). "Noia 8c+ for Josune Bereziartu" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  72. 1 2 3 "The formative years of cutting edge rock climbing" (PDF). BOLFA (Climbing Club of South Australia). 4 (6): 4. February 2006. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  73. ↑ Ament, Pat (2002). A History of Free Climbing in America. Berkeley CA: Wilderness Press. pp. 343–352. ISBN   0-89997-320-5.
  74. ↑ "Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France". planetemountain.
  75. ↑ "Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint". PlanetMountain. 30 October 2012. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  76. ↑ "Ondra: Flash of Southern Smoke Direct (5.14d)". Climbing. 15 November 2012. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  77. ↑ "Alexander Megos, l'intervista dopo il primo 9a a-vista mondiale". PlanetMountain.com.
  78. ↑ Björn Pohl (9 July 2013). "La cabane au Canada, 9a, onsight by Ondra". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013.
  79. ↑ "Adam ondra onsights Il domani (9a)". Youtube.
  80. 1 2 3 4 "Adam Ondra, the 8c+ on-sight interview!". PlanetMountain. 10 March 2011. Retrieved 4 July 2022.
  81. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 "Historical Performances: Men Onsight". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 4 July 2022.
  82. ↑ "Yuji Hirayama world's first 8c on-sight!". planetmountain.com.
  83. ↑ "Elie Chevieux". planetmountain.com.
  84. ↑ ""Dancing about Architecture" – An interview with Antoine le Menestrel". Alpinismi (in Italian). 2017-12-12. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  85. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Hobley, Nicholas; Grimes, Niall (26 February 2009). "Jerry Moffatt Interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 14 January 2022.
  86. ↑ "UKC Logbook – 'Polpot'". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  87. 1 2 Hobley, Nicholas (17 November 2012). "Adieu Patrick Edlinger". PlanetMountain. It was at the famous Luberon crag Buoux that Edlinger first began to leave his indelible mark, climbing numerous routes up to 7a solo (such as the exposed Pilier des Fourmis), succeeding 30 years ago in the world's first 7b on-sight (Captain crochet) and then, in that magic 1982 and still at Buoux, managing to on-sight the world's first 7c, La polka des ringards.
  88. ↑ "Rock Climb Ekel, Frankenjura". Mountain Project. Retrieved 2020-04-29.
  89. ↑ "Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 24 April 2016. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  90. ↑ "Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview". PlanetMountain. 8 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  91. ↑ "Janja Garnbret on-sights two F8c's at Oliana". Climber. 7 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  92. ↑ "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. 3 December 2016. Retrieved 10 April 2022.
  93. 1 2 3 Millar, Delaney (5 November 2021). "Janja Garnbret Becomes First Woman to Onsight 5.14b". Climbing . Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  94. 1 2 3 4 5 "Janja Garnbret makes climbing history with first female 8c onsight, Fish Eye at Oliana". PlanetMountain. 3 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  95. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 "Historical Performances: Women Onsight". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  96. 1 2 "Sasha DiGiulian unstoppable at Red River Gorge". PlanetMountain. 24 March 2011. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  97. ↑ Pohl, Bjorn (23 March 2011). "Sasha Digiulian onsights Omaha beach, 8b+". UKClimbing. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  98. 1 2 "Janja Garnbret Makes History with Fish Eye 5.14b Onsight". Gripped. 3 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  99. ↑ "Josune Bereziartu first woman to on-sight 8b+!". PlanetMountain. 18 April 2006. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  100. ↑ "Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain". PlanetMountain. 14 April 2010. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  101. ↑ "Kevin Jorgeson sends Ambrosia and blurs line between highball and free solo". 11 January 2009.
  102. 1 2 3 Slavsky, Bennett (12 March 2021). "Alfredo Webber, Age 52, Free Solos 5.14b". Climbing . Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  103. 1 2 McDonald, Dougald (7 May 2004). "Huber Solos 5.14". Climbing . Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  104. ↑ "MacLeod solos 5.14b in Spain". 15 June 2012.
  105. ↑ "8b+ Free Solo". YouTube .
  106. ↑ "Being Bachar". Rock & Ice . March 2008. Retrieved 3 January 2023. [In 1982] 'I was so pissed off', says Bachar, 'That I went to Joshua Tree and soloed Baby Apes,' a 60-foot 5.12b/c he'd previously top roped but never led, thereby making the first "lead" of the now-classic line.
  107. ↑ "No Kpote Only Downgraded from V17 to V15". Gripped. 9 October 2020. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  108. ↑ Noonan, Daniel (22 February 2022). "From V17 to V16 and Back Again: Fontainebleau's Hardest Problem Sees a Third Ascent". Climbing . Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  109. 1 2 Miller, Delaney (22 August 2022). "Shawn Raboutou Does First Ascent of "Alphane" (V17)". Climbing . Retrieved 25 August 2022.
  110. ↑ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world's first 9a boulder problem".
  111. 1 2 3 4 5 Walker, Noah (27 January 2022). "The World's Hardest Boulder Problems". Gripped.com. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  112. ↑ Corrigan, Kevin (7 April 2021). "Daniel Woods Spent a Month Alone in the Desert to Send the First US V17, He Came Back a Different Person". climbing.com. Retrieved 19 April 2021.
  113. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Cote, Matt (28 September 2017). "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History". Outside . Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  114. ↑ "Shawn Raboutou climbs Alphane, 9A boulder problem at Chironico". PlanetMountain. 22 August 2022. Retrieved 22 August 2022.
  115. ↑ McLemore, Andrew (22 October 2022). "With Send of 'Alphane,' Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat". GearJunkie.
  116. ↑ Larssen, Jens. "Alphane 9A? by Will Bosi". 8a.nu. Vertical Life. Retrieved 6 November 2022.
  117. ↑ Pardy, Aaron (2022-11-16). "Shawn Raboutou Announces First Ascent of Megatron V17". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2022-11-18.
  118. ↑ "The Wheel of Life". Hard Climbs. 4 December 2021. Retrieved 8 January 2022.
  119. 1 2 "Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history". 8a.nu. 19 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  120. ↑ "Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview". PlanetMountain.com. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  121. ↑ "Niky Ceria in top form: Boulder Gioia (8c +) committed". LACrux.com. 23 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  122. ↑ "Niccolò Ceria repeats Gioia, Christian Core's masterpiece at Varazze". PlanetMountain.com. 16 December 2020. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  123. ↑ "Elias Lagnemma Repeats Christian Core's Gioia V15/16". Gripped.com. 23 February 2021. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  124. ↑ "Shawn Raboutou Climbs Hukkataival's Highball "Livin' Large" in Rocklands". Rock & Ice . 8 October 2019. Retrieved 28 January 2022.
  125. ↑ "Shawn Raboutou wins the third ascent of the 8c Boulder Livin 'Large in South Africa". LACrux. 10 October 2019. Retrieved 28 January 2022.
  126. ↑ Clarke, Owen (9 March 2022). "Daniel Woods, World's Most Accomplished Boulderer". Climbing . Retrieved 26 June 2022.
  127. ↑ "RockandIce.com | Dave Graham Sends "Hypnotized Minds" (V16), His Nemesis Boulder". www.RockandIce.com. 9 October 2019. Retrieved 2020-09-04.
  128. ↑ "Adam ondra frees Terranova 8C+". PlanetMountain. 15 November 2011. Retrieved 1 August 2017.
  129. ↑ "Gossip upgraded to 8C". Climbing.de. 26 November 2002. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  130. ↑ Pohl, Bjorn (2 June 2009). "3rd ascent of Gossip, 8C". UKClimbing. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  131. ↑ Larrsen, Jens (26 August 2009). "Gossip Gossip, The Emails". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  132. ↑ Larrsen, Jens (2006). "Who to believe: Fact or fiction?". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  133. ↑ Pohl, Bjorn (6 May 2014). "Nalle repeats Emotional Landscapes, ~8C". UKClimbing. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  134. ↑ Larrsen, Jens (6 May 2014). "Nalle Hukkataival does Emotional Landscapes 8B+ (C)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2 July 2022.
  135. 1 2 "8a.nu, Monkey Wedding". 8a.nu. 20 August 2002. Retrieved 15 April 2020.
  136. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 "Historical Men's Bouldering". Climbingfr. 2022. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  137. ↑ "Thomas Lindinger Sends Zerberus (8B/V13), Frankenjura, Germany". Rock & Ice . 2017. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  138. ↑ Schulte, Chris (20 September 2021). "Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile". Climbing. Retrieved 1 July 2022.
  139. ↑ "Dreamtime at Cresciano, the boulder problem by Fred Nicole between dream and reality". PlanetMountain. 6 July 2017. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  140. ↑ "The Classics – Dreamtime (8C/V15), with Fred Nicole". Rock & Ice . 6 July 2017. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  141. ↑ "Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only". PlaneyMountain. 16 November 2009. Retrieved 30 June 2022.
  142. ↑ Linville, Sarah (17 March 2014). "Isabelle Faus Climbs the World's First V12 Trice". Rock & Ice . Retrieved 21 April 2022.
  143. ↑ "Midnight Lightning, the legendary boulder problem in Yosemite". PlanetMountain. 9 June 2017. Retrieved 3 February 2022.
  144. ↑ "Bereziartu climbs "E la nave va" 8c traverse". PlanetMountain.com. 24 May 2003. Retrieved 7 January 2022.
  145. ↑ Rock and Ice, ed. (8 September 2016). "Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & "Young Guns"" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  146. 1 2 3 4 Gartner, Hannah (22 May 2019). "Young, Strong, and Pushing Grades: A Deeper Look at 13-Year-Old Mishka Ishi's Ascent of Byaku-dou (V15)". Climbing. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  147. ↑ Rock & Ice, ed. (4 August 2016). "Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  148. ↑ onbouldering.com, ed. (14 June 2018). "Kaddi Lehmann repeats Kryptos 8C" . Retrieved 7 July 2019.
  149. 1 2 3 "Shuana Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)". Climbing . 12 July 2014. Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  150. 1 2 3 Fox, Amanda (15 June 2012). "First Female Ascent of Propaganda (V12/13)". Climbing . Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  151. 1 2 Roy, Adam (25 August 2010). "Climber Angie Payne Conquers Colorado's Automator". Outside . Retrieved 31 January 2022.
  152. ↑ Fox, Amanda (15 June 2012). "10-Year-Old Repeats Crown of Aragorn (V13)". Climbing . Retrieved 2 June 2022.
  153. ↑ "Historical of the performances: Female, top boulder history". ClimbingAway.fr. Retrieved 4 February 2022.
  154. ↑ Bello, Marisol (January 15, 2015). "Yosemite free-climbers reach top of El Capitan". USA Today.
  155. ↑ Bisharat, Andrew (January 15, 2015). "Summiting Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Climbers Make History". news.nationalgeographic.com. Retrieved 2015-01-15.
  156. ↑ Czech free-climber Adam Ondra scales Yosemite rock wall in record time (The Daily Telegraph)
  157. ↑ "Adam Ondra Completes Dawn Wall". Climbing. 22 November 2016. Retrieved 22 November 2016.
  158. ↑ "Bellavista, Alexander Huber climbs 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo". PlanetMountain. 23 July 2001. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  159. ↑ "Huber's Dolomite routes repeated". British Mountaineering Council . 21 July 2010. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  160. ↑ Mingolla, Federica (20 June 2022). "Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  161. 1 2 3 4 Drozdz, Piotr; Jedrzejewska, Monika (2016). "(S)ending the Neverending" (PDF). Ascent 2016 (Climbing Magazine Special Edition) . pp. 12–21. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  162. ↑ "Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan". PlanetMountain. 8 June 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  163. 1 2 3 "End of Silence". PlanetMountain. April 2012. Retrieved 18 December 2022.
  164. ↑ "Salathé Wall". PlanetMountain. 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  165. 1 2 3 4 Osius, Alison (4 June 2022). "Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport". Climbing . Retrieved 26 November 2022.
  166. ↑ "Exclusive: Climber Completes the Most Dangerous Rope-Free Ascent Ever". National Geographic Society . 3 June 2017.
  167. ↑ Mcphate, Mike (2017-06-06). "California Today: An 'Incomprehensible' Climb in Yosemite". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2017-06-06.
  168. ↑ "Hansjörg Auer free solo Attraverso il Pesce - Fish route - in Marmolada". PlanetMountain.com.
  169. ↑ Lambert, Erik (7 April 2008). "Honnold Free Solos Moonlight Buttress". Alpinist . Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  170. ↑ Samet, Matt (19 April 2007). "About Michael Reardon". Climbing . Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  171. ↑ "Adventurers of the Year 2005: Michael Reardon, Free Soloist". National Geographic . 26 April 2006. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
  172. ↑ "This is Still a Gripping Free-Solo Video – Alex Huber on a 20-Pitch 5.12a". Gripped Magazine. 2 November 2021. Retrieved 16 December 2022.
  173. ↑ "Chris Sharma Sends Five-Year 5.15 Deep Water Solo Project". Rock and Ice. September 29, 2016. Archived from the original on July 30, 2017. Retrieved August 1, 2017.
  174. ↑ "Chris Sharma sends his mega Arch Project in Mallorca – News". FreakClimbing.com. 2006-09-28. Retrieved 2012-01-30.
  175. ↑ "Reel Rock: King Lines, Part 2". Youtube. September 9, 2014. Retrieved August 1, 2017.

Further reading

This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.