Extra Virginity

Last updated
Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil
Extra+Virginity.jpg
AuthorTom Mueller
CountryUnited States
LanguageEnglish
Subject Olive oil
Publisher W.W. Norton & Company
Publication date
2011
Media typePrint
Pages238
ISBN 0393070212
OCLC 780954413
664.362
LC Class TP683 .M84 2011

Extra Virginity: The Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil is a 2011 nonfiction book by American author Tom Mueller about olive oil. The book describes the history of olive oil, including its religious, economic, and culinary uses, as well as the current state of the olive oil industry. Extra Virginity asserts that the global olive oil industry is rife with corruption and fraud due to lax governmental regulations, but it also presents stories of individuals, including growers and government officials, who seek to curb such practices and promote genuine extra virgin olive oil. The book also includes an appendix with advice to consumers for choosing good oil. Extra Virginity expands upon "Slippery Business", an article Mueller wrote for The New Yorker in 2007 which described the state of the Italian olive oil industry. [1] [2]

Contents

Content

The book opens with a panel taste test of various olive oils being conducted by the Mastri Oleari corporation, a private olive oil association in Milan, introducing the sixteen defects officially identified by the International Olive Council as preventing an oil from being labeled as "extra virgin". Subsequent sections of the book explain how such defective oil is often chemically altered and repackaged as extra virgin.

Extra Virginity gives an overview of the importance of olive oil in classical antiquity, such as its use in cosmetics, bathing, and lubrication. Mueller describes an archaeological site on Cyprus, where an olive oil press stood in the middle of an ancient industrial complex. He reports that archaeologists speculate that the oil would have been used throughout the complex in various processes, such as perfume making and weaving; one archaeologist says that olive oil was as important to the ancient world as petroleum is to the modern world. Mueller also visits Monte Testaccio in Rome, an artificial mound full of amphorae debris bearing tituli picti , an ancient form of labeling indicating an olive oil's origin, quality, and the identities of the merchants who processed and shipped it.

Mueller's overview of the modern olive oil industry includes a visit to a Bertolli plant in Inveruno; independent growers in Apulia, Cyprus, and California; and the monastery of New Norcia, Western Australia, founded by Spanish monks, which also produces olive oil. While the book is critical of many international olive oil companies, lax government regulation, and non-governmental organizations such as the International Olive Council, [3] Mueller expresses optimism that increased olive oil consumption in such places as Australia and the United States will drive a resurgence of true extra virgin olive oil analogous to the rise of microbrewing and fine wine.

Website

Along with writing Extra Virginity, Mueller created a website, extravirginity.com, to promote the book and its ideas. The website was later renamed Truth in Olive Oil and relocated to truthinoliveoil.com; as of December 2012, the older URL redirects to the current site. Mueller maintains the site with content such as news and olive oil buyers' guides. [4]

Reception

Extra Virginity received mixed reviews. Writing for The New York Times , Dwight Garner was critical of some Extra Virginity's flowery language, calling it "an unintentional master class in how to say waxy and embalming things about fresh food" and contrasting it with the "cogent" New Yorker article it grew from. [2] The reviewer appreciated the book's informativeness, however. [2] Mueller responded to this review in The Huffington Post , suggesting its criticisms stemmed from a misreading of the book. [5] An opinion piece in The Olive Oil Times previously raised some of the same issues with the review. [6] Bloomberg Businessweek gave the book two and a half stars out of five, comparing it to Mark Kurlansky's books on the history of cod and salt, as well as Eric Schlosser's Fast Food Nation . The review described the book as "undernourished", suggesting the subject matter could have prompted a much larger book. [7]

More positive reviews of Extra Virginity include those of the Los Angeles Times , praising Mueller's investigative talents, [8] and Kirkus Reviews , saying, "Engrossing history, vivid contemporary reporting and a cogent call to action, expertly blended in an illuminating text." [9]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olive oil</span> Liquid fat made from olives

Olive oil is a liquid fat obtained by pressing whole olives, the fruit of Olea europaea, a traditional tree crop of the Mediterranean Basin, and extracting the oil.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jeffrey Eugenides</span> Novelist, short story writer, teacher

Jeffrey Kent Eugenides is an American novelist and short story writer. He has written numerous short stories and essays, as well as three novels: The Virgin Suicides (1993), Middlesex (2002), and The Marriage Plot (2011). The Virgin Suicides served as the basis of a feature film, while Middlesex received the 2003 Pulitzer Prize for Fiction in addition to being a finalist for the National Book Critics Circle Award, the International Dublin Literary Award, and France's Prix Médicis.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Arbequina</span> Cultivar of olives

Arbequina is a cultivar of olives. The fruit is highly aromatic, small, symmetrical and dark brown, with a rounded apex and a broad peduncular cavity. In Europe, it is mostly grown in Catalonia, Spain, but it is also grown in Aragon and Andalusia, as well as California, Argentina, Chile, Australia and Azerbaijan. It has recently become one of the dominant olive cultivars in the world, largely under highly intensive, "super high-density" plantation.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Parable of the Ten Virgins</span> Parable of Jesus from the Gospel of Matthew

The Parable of the Ten Virgins, also known as the Parable of the Wise and Foolish Virgins or the Parable of the ten bridesmaids, is one of the parables of Jesus. According to Matthew 25:1-13, ten virgins await a bridegroom; five have brought enough oil for their lamps for the wait, while the oil of the other five runs out. The five virgins who are prepared for the bridegroom's arrival are rewarded, while the five who went to buy further oil miss the bridegroom's arrival and are disowned.

<i>Kirkus Reviews</i> American book review magazine

Kirkus Reviews is an American book review magazine founded in 1933 by Virginia Kirkus (1893–1980). The magazine is headquartered in New York City. Kirkus Reviews confers the annual Kirkus Prize to authors of fiction, nonfiction, and young readers' literature.

<i>Losing My Virginity</i>

Losing My Virginity: The Autobiography is the autobiography of the British businessman Richard Branson. Published in 1998, it was later followed by other biographical books by Branson, including Business Stripped Bare: Adventures of a Global Entrepreneur (2008) and The Virgin Way: How to Listen, Learn, Laugh and Lead (2014).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hanne Blank</span> Historian, writer, editor, activist

Hanne Blank, also known as Hanne Blank Boyd, is an American historian, writer, and editor. Her written works include Virgin: The Untouched History, Straight: The Surprisingly Short History of Heterosexuality, and The Unapologetic Fat Girl's Guide to Exercise and Other Incendiary Acts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Bissell</span> American journalist and fiction writer

Tom Bissell is an American journalist, critic, and writer, best known for his extensive work as a writer of video games, including The Vanishing of Ethan Carter, Battlefield Hardline, and Gears 5. His work has been adapted into films by Julia Loktev, Werner Herzog and James Franco.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mary Pilon</span> American journalist

Mary Pilon is an American journalist who primarily writes about sports and business. A regular contributor to the New Yorker and Bloomberg Businessweek, her books are The Monopolists (2015) and The Kevin Show (2018). The former is being developed into a feature film. She has also worked as a staff reporter covering sports for The New York Times and has also written for Vice, Esquire, NBC News, among other outlets.

Filippo Berio is a brand of olive oils exported from Italy and made of oil from Italy, Greece, Spain and Tunisia. The brand is used for virgin, extra-virgin and 'mild and light' oils, as well as wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, pesto and olives.

Pompeian, Inc. is a food company that was founded in Baltimore in 1906 and produced America's first national brand of imported extra virgin olive oil. Today Pompeian offers a line of olive oils, including Robust Extra Virgin, Smooth Extra Virgin, Organic Extra Virgin, Classic Pure and Extra Light Tasting varieties. Pompeian has the number one selling extra virgin olive oil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, wine vinegar and grapeseed oil, and offers a wide variety of cooking oils, vinegars, cooking wines and cooking sprays nationwide. Pompeian also carries several Organic products, including Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Organic Balsamic Vinegar and Organic Red Wine Vinegar.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olive oil regulation and adulteration</span>

Olive oil regulation and adulteration are complex issues overseen and studied by various governmental bodies, non-governmental organizations, and private researchers across the world.

Unfiltered olive oil is an intermediate product of olive oil extraction. It is actually the initial cloudy juice of the olive drupes soon after crushing, separation and decanting and before final filtration. The oil is either filtered or stored in tanks to settle for weeks or months to allow sediments to be separated from the oil; this is known as racking. Once opened, unfiltered olive oil has a shorter life because the olive particles continue to ferment in the bottle.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nocellara del Belice</span> Olive cultivar

Nocellara del Belice is an olive cultivar from the Valle del Belice area of south-western Sicily. It is a dual-purpose olive, grown both for oil and for the table. It is used to make "Valle del Belìce" extra-virgin olive oil, which is pressed from a minimum of 70% Nocellara del Belice olives. As a table olive it may be treated by various methods, one of which is named for the comune of Castelvetrano in the Valle del Belice; these may be marketed as Castelvetrano olives in the United States and elsewhere, and are large, green olives with a mild, buttery flavor.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Picual</span> Olive cultivar

The Picual, also known as Marteña or Lopereña, is an olive cultivar from Spain. Picual olives are the most commonly grown olive today for olive oil production, with production centered in the Spanish province of Jaén. Picual trees are estimated to account for 25% of all olive oil production in the world. Naturally, this varietal is very high in oil content, at 20-27% by weight.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bidni</span> Olive cultivar from Malta

The Bidni, which is also referred to as Bitni, is an olive cultivar from the Mediterranean island of Malta. The fruit is small in size, hearty with a "violet colour", and is renowned for its superior oil which is low in acidity. The latter is generally attributed to the poor quality alkaline soil found on the Maltese Islands. As an indigenous olive cultivar, the Bidni has developed a unique DNA profile, and is believed to be among the most ancient species on the island, triggering local authorities to declare some of these ancient trees as "national monuments", and as having an "Antiquarian Importance", a status which is enjoyed by only a handful of other species.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pizza marinara</span> Neapolitan style pizza

Pizza marinara, also known as pizza alla marinara, is a style of Neapolitan pizza in Italian cuisine seasoned with only tomato sauce, extra virgin olive oil, oregano and garlic. It is supposedly the most ancient tomato-topped pizza.

<i>Why Buddhism Is True</i> 2017 book by Robert Wright

Why Buddhism is True: The Science and Philosophy of Meditation and Enlightenment is a 2017 book by Robert Wright. As of August 2017, the book had peaked at The New York Times No. 4 bestseller in hardcover nonfiction.

<i>Growgirl</i> 2012 book by Heather Donahue

Growgirl is a 2012 book by former actor Heather Donahue about dropping out of Hollywood and moving to a semi-collective society in Nevada County, California's Sierra Mountains called "Nuggettown" to become first a "pot wife" then embrace the "backbreaking, spirit-sucking work" of a cannabis grower.

<i>History Is All You Left Me</i> 2017 novel by Adam Silvera

History Is All You Left Me is a young adult novel by Adam Silvera, published January 17, 2017 by Soho Teen.

References

  1. Mueller, Tom (13 August 2007). "Slippery Business". The New Yorker . Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  2. 1 2 3 Garner, Dwight (7 December 2011). "Olive Oil's Growers, Chemists, Cooks and Crooks". The New York Times . Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  3. Cord, Curtis (20 November 2011). "New Book Accuses Council of Holding Olive Oil to 'Lowest Denominator'". The Olive Oil Times. Retrieved 28 December 2012.
  4. Mueller, Tom. "About Truth in Olive Oil". Truth in Olive Oil. Retrieved 28 December 2012. Archived page.
  5. Mueller, Tom (29 December 2011). "Misreading Olive Oil In America". The Huffington Post . Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  6. Cord, Curtis (13 December 2011). ""Extra Virginity" Book Review Has Plenty of Quips, But Misses the Point". The Olive Oil Times. Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  7. Kamp, David (8 December 2011). "Book Review: Extra Virginity by Tom Mueller". Bloomberg Businessweek . Archived from the original on 27 December 2012. Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  8. Parsons, Russ (4 March 2012). "Review: 'Extra Virginity' exposes the world of olive oil". Los Angeles Times . Retrieved 27 December 2012.
  9. "Extra Virginity by Tom Mueller". Kirkus Reviews . 1 October 2012. Retrieved 27 December 2012.