The history of Yarmouth, Maine, is closely tied to its position on the banks of the Royal River and its proximity to Casco Bay, an inlet of the Gulf of Maine, itself a gulf of the Atlantic Ocean.
Native Americans originally settled the area, and several wars between them and later European settlers occurred before they were driven from the area for the final time in the mid-18th century.
Around three hundred sea-going vessels were built in the numerous shipyards in Yarmouth harbor from around 1790 to 1890, while almost sixty mills were founded over 250 years along the town's section of the Royal River, making use of its four waterfalls for power.
The Maine Historic Preservation Commission [1] has found many of Yarmouth's historic buildings eligible for listing on the National Register of Historic Places, [2] in addition to the twelve that are already included.
Traces of human occupation in the Yarmouth area date to about 2,000 BC. During the years prior to the arrival of the Europeans, many Native American cultures existed in the area, [3] largely because of the natural features of the coastal land. Rivers provided several resources, including food, fertile soil, power for the mills and the navigability between the inland areas and the ocean. [4]
In 1643, Englishman George Felt, who had emigrated to Charlestown, Massachusetts Bay Colony, eighteen years earlier, purchased 300 acres of land at Broad Cove from John Phillips (1607–c. 1667), a Welshman, and thus became one of the first European settlers in Yarmouth. (His family in Bedfordshire, England, went by the family name Felce. He called himself George Felch, however, when he moved to America. He began to be known as George Felt in his later years.) [5]
Englishman William Royall (c. 1595–1676), [6] a cooper, emigrated to Salem, Massachusetts Bay Colony, in July 1629, aboard the Lyon's Whelp . He was a servant in the Massachusetts Bay Colony Company, and after serving his seven years, he was provided with a land grant in the Casco Bay area of Maine. In 1636, he purchased a farm at what is now the upscale Lambert Point, next to Redding Creek, at the southern tip of Lambert Road, where he lived with his wife, County Durham native Phoebe Green. They had thirteen children together between 1639 and 1657, the first being son William Jr. [5]
The Royal River has ever-since borne an alternative spelling of Royall Sr.'s name, though two streets off Gilman Road — Royall Meadow Road and Royall Point Road — carry the double-L spelling. (One of the earliest maps naming the river Royal was a 1699 map by Wolfgang William Romer on which it was spelled "Roiall River.") [6] This stream and its vicinity were called by the Indians "Westcustogo" — a name that, until the early 1990s, was preserved by an inn of the same name on Princes Point Road at its intersection with Lafayette Street. [7] (The building remains but it is now occupied by another business.)
John Cousins (c. 1596–1682), a native of Wiltshire, England, had arrived a year or more earlier than Royall, with his wife, Mary, occupying the neck of land between the branches of the Cousins River and Cousins Island. [8]
By 1676, approximately sixty-five people lived in Westcustogo. Soon after, however, conflicts forged by King Philip's War (1675–1678) caused them to abandon their homes and move south. [3] John Cousins was injured and went to York, Maine, to receive treatment. He died in Cider Hill, York County, in 1682, aged 86. He deeded his real estate in Casco Bay to his wife. [5]
Some settlers returned to their dwellings in 1679, and within twelve months the region became incorporated as North Yarmouth, the eighth town of the Province of Maine. [5]
In 1684, an English military officer named Walter Gendall claimed to own all of Felt's two thousand acres in Casco Bay. He had purchased one hundred acres from him in 1680. [9] Gendall had emigrated to America from Cornwall around 1640. [9]
In 1688, during the early stages of King William's War, also known as the Second Indian War (1688–1697), while the inhabitants on the southern side of the river were building a garrison, they were attacked by Indians, and attempted a defense. They continued the contest until nightfall, when the Indians retired. It was not long before they appeared again, in such force that the thirty-six families of the settlement were forced to flee, abandoning their homes for a second time. Walter Gendall, who had been on good terms with the Indians, was killed. [9]
The unrest kept the area deserted for many years, but by 1715 settlers revisited their homes, by which point they found their fields and the sites of their habitations covered by a young growth of trees. The mills at the First Falls were rebuilt first. [5]
In 1722, a "Committee for the Resettlement of North Yarmouth" was formed in Boston, Province of Massachusetts Bay. [5]
In 1725, Massachusetts natives William and Matthew Scales were killed at the hands of the Indians. William's wife and daughter, both named Susannah, survived. His daughter married James Buxton the same year. They are both buried in the Ledge Cemetery. [5] Joseph Felt, son of Moses Felt II, also perished. His wife, Sarah (Mills), and children were taken into captivity for five years. One of the captors remarked to Felt's widow: "Husband much tough man! Shot good many times, no die! Take scalp off alive; then take knife and cut neck long 'round." [10] Joseph Felt's daughter and George Felt's great-granddaughter, Sarah, married in 1720 Captain Peter Weare, who recovered the family in some woods near Quebec. He later drowned while crossing the river near his home. The captain's son and Joseph Felt's brother-in-law, Joseph Weare, became a noted scout, pursuing the Native Americans at every opportunity until his death during a trip to Boston sometime after 1774. His widow, Mary Noyes, remarried, to Humphrey Merrill of Falmouth. [5]
Once resettlement began, in 1727, the town's population began to grow rapidly. A proprietors' map was drawn up. It surveyed land divisions made with 103 original proprietors, each with a home lot of ten acres. If this lot was occupied and improved, the settler was permitted to apply for larger after-divisions. [5]
The structural frame of the first meetinghouse, the Meetinghouse under the Ledge, was raised in 1729 near Westcustogo Hill on what is now Gilman Road, and nine years later the first school was built at the northwestern corner of the Princes Point Road intersection. [5]
North Yarmouth held its first town meeting on May 14, 1733. [5]
In August 1746, a party of thirty-two Indians secreted themselves near the Lower Falls for the apparent purpose of surprising Weare's garrison, in the process killing 35-year-old Philip Greely, whose barking dog blew their cover. [5] Greely's son, Jonathan, died in an engagement with a British frigate off Marblehead, Massachusetts, in 1781. He was 39. Hannah, Philip's widow, remarried to Jonathan Underwood. [5]
In June 1748, [11] a large party of Indians surprised four people near the meetinghouse. They killed the elderly Ebenezer Eaton. [5]
Joseph Burnell was the only inhabitant of the town to be killed at the hands of the Indians in 1751. He had been on horseback near the Presumpscot River falls when he was ambushed and shot. He was found scalped, with his steed lying nearby, having been shot four times. [5] He left behind a wife and 14-year-old daughter, both named Sarah.
In 1756, Indians attacked the Means family, who lived at Flying Point. The family consisted of Thomas, his wife Alice, daughters Alice and Jane, [12] an infant son, Robert, and Molly Finney, sister of the patriarch and aged about sixteen. The family was dragged out of their home. Thomas was shot and scalped. Mother and baby ran back into the house and barricaded the door. One of the attackers shot through a hole in the wall, killing the infant and puncturing his mother's breast. John Martin, who had been sleeping in another room, fired at them, causing them to flee. They took with them Molly, whom they made follow them through the woods to Canada. Upon her arrival in Quebec, she was sold as a slave. A few months later, Captain William McLellan, of Falmouth, was in Quebec in charge of a group of prisoners for exchange. He had known Molly before her capture and secretly arranged for her escape. He came below her window and threw her a rope which she slid down. McLellan brought her back to Falmouth on his vessel. They married shortly afterwards. [5] Alice remarried, to Colonel George Rogers. Thomas is interred in Freeport's First Parish Cemetery, alongside his son. His wife is buried with her second husband in Flying Point Cemetery.
The Means massacre was the last act of resistance by the indigenous people to occur within the limits of the town. [5]
By 1764, 1,098 individuals lived in 154 houses. By 1810, the population was 3,295. During a time of peace, settlement began to relocate along the coast and inland. [3]
The town's Main Street gradually became divided into the Upper Village (also known as the Corner) and Lower Falls, the split roughly located around the present-day U.S. Route 1 overpass (Brickyard Hollow, as it was known). Among the new proprietors at the time were descendants of the Plymouth Pilgrims. [5]
The Yarmouth Village Improvement Society has added wooden plaques to over 100 notable buildings in town. These include: [13] [14]
Another notable building is Camp Hammond (1889–90), at 275 Main Street, whose construction method is significant in that the building consists of a single exterior wall of heavy planks over timbers, with no hidden spaces or hollow walls. This so-called mill-built construction was used largely for fire prevention. [13] It was built by George W. Hammond. Frederick Law Olmsted, who is responsible for the layout of New York's Central Park, designed the landscape for the exterior. [17]
A "grasshopper plague" arrived in 1822, which resulted in the loss of wheat and corn crops. [5]
Around 1847, the Old Ledge School was moved from Gilman Road to today's Maine State Route 88, at the foot of the hill where the West Side Trail crosses the road. In 1972, it was reconstructed and moved to just beyond the brick schools on West Main Street. [5] [18]
Yarmouth constituted the eastern part of North Yarmouth until 1849. On August 8 of that year, it seceded and incorporated as an independent town. The split occurred due to bickering between the inland, farming-based contingent and the coastal maritime-oriented community. Unable to resolve this difference, the two halves of the town separated into present-day Yarmouth and North Yarmouth. [3]
In 1849 there were nine districts in Yarmouth, designated by numbers: Number One: (Cousins) Island; Number Two: Ledge; Number Three: (Lower) Falls; Number Four: Corner; Number Five: (Princes) Point; Number Six: Greely Road; Number Seven: Pratt; Number Eight: Sweetser; and Number Nine: East (Main). By 1874, however, efforts were made to abolish this setup due its being seen as "unfair" in terms of fund distribution. [5]
By 1850, Yarmouth's population was 2,144, and very little changed over the hundred years that followed.
18th- and 19th-century business relied heavily upon a variety of natural resources. Once lumber was cut and sent to market, the land was farmed. Tanneries were built near brooks; potteries and brickyards put to use the natural clay in the area; and mills flourished along the Royal River, providing services such as iron-forging and fulling cloth. [3]
Maritime activities were important from the beginning of the third settlement. Almost three hundred vessels were launched by Yarmouth's shipyards in the century between 1790 and 1890. [19]
In 1887, a fire started in the dry grass south of Grand Trunk Station by a spark from a passing train. Fanned by a strong wind, it spread rapidly into the woods and up over the ledge. Two hundred acres were burned, and the fire was only stopped because it reached the waters of Broad Cove. [5]
Yarmouth's "town system" [5] went into effect in April 1889. Three of the former districts were discontinued because they were small and had dilapidated buildings. These were Princes Point, Greely Road and the Sweetser district – the last of which was on the Sodom Road (now Granite Street) and the Freeport line. [5]
Electricity came to Yarmouth in 1893. [17]
Another, more menacing fire occurred in April 1900, when the corn-canning factory of Asa York caught fire from a spark blown from the stack of the Walker & Cleaves sawmill. A strong southerly breeze carried the sparks directly across the most thickly settled part of town, causing small fires in various places so that over twenty buildings were burning concurrently. [5]
In 1903, the post office established a route around town for the rural free delivery of mail. Hired was Joshua Adams Drinkwater as the town's first letter carrier. Early in the morning he would leave Princes Point, pick up the mail at Lower Falls, and then deliver letters to the northern edge of town, including Sligo and Mountfort Roads. Around noon, he would pick up the afternoon sack for the town's western and coastal farms. Each day, as he passed his farm on Princes Point Road, he would change horses and eat lunch with his wife, Harriet. [20] They had a daughter, Elizabeth.
In 1918, the Spanish flu hit town in two waves, resulting in 370 infections and fourteen deaths. [17]
In 1923, town historian William Hutchinson Rowe announced that a history of Yarmouth was in the works. The project took fourteen more years to complete, but it was "so thorough that it is still in print". [19] Rowe died in 1955, eighteen years after its publication, aged about 73. [19]
A Grippe epidemic struck the town in January 1944, with two thousand residents placed into quarantine. [21]
In 1949, Yarmouth celebrated its centenary with a parade. [22]
Rapid growth was experienced again after 1948, when Route 1 was put through the town. Two years later, there were 2,699 inhabitants of the town. Interstate 295 was built through the harbor in 1961 (spanning part of the town known as Grantville [23] across to the land between Route 88 and Old Shipyard Road), and the town grew about 40%, from 4,854 residents in 1970 to 8,300 thirty-five years later.
As of the early 21st century, Yarmouth is mostly residential in character, with commercial development scattered throughout the town, particularly along Route 1 and Main Street (State Route 115).
Casco Bay is an inlet of the Gulf of Maine on the coast of Maine in the United States. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration's chart for Casco Bay marks the dividing line between the bay and the Gulf of Maine as running from Bald Head on Cape Small in Phippsburg west-southwest to Dyer Point in Cape Elizabeth. The city of Portland and the Port of Portland are on Casco Bay's western edge.
Brown's Point is a promontory in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It is located around 1.90 miles (3.06 km) east of Yarmouth Village at the confluence of Cousins River, to the north, and Royal River, to the south. It sits across Cousins River from Powell Point and across Royal River from Callen Point. The point is accessible via Bayview Street.
The Royal River is a small river, 39 miles (63 km) long, in southern Maine. The river originates in Sabbathday Lake in New Gloucester and flows northeasterly into Auburn and then southerly through New Gloucester, Gray and North Yarmouth into Casco Bay at Yarmouth.
Yarmouth is a town in Cumberland County, Maine, United States, twelve miles north of the state's largest city, Portland. When originally settled in 1636, as North Yarmouth, it was part of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, and remained part of its subsequent incarnations for 213 years. In 1849, twenty-nine years after Maine's admittance to the Union as the twenty-third state, it was incorporated as the Town of Yarmouth.
The historical buildings and structures of Yarmouth, Maine, represent a variety of building styles and usages, largely based on its past as home to almost sixty mills over a period of roughly 250 years. These mills include that of grain, lumber, pulp and cotton. Additionally, almost three hundred vessels were launched by Yarmouth's shipyards in the century between 1790 and 1890, and the homes of master shipwrights and ship captains can still be found throughout the town.
John Cousins (1596–1682) was a 17th-century English emigrant to the New England Colonies. Cousins River, Cousins Island and Littlejohn Island in what was then North Yarmouth, Massachusetts Bay Colony, are named for him.
William Royall was a 17th-century English emigrant to the New England Colonies. The Royal River in Maine is named for him.
George Felt was a 17th-century English emigrant to the New England Colonies. A mason by trade, he is considered a founder of the Boston neighborhood of Charlestown, and is one of the three main early settlers of North Yarmouth, Massachusetts Bay Colony, along with John Cousins and William Royal.
Walter Gendall was a 17th-century English sawmill owner in and prominent citizen of North Yarmouth, Massachusetts Bay Colony. He was also a captain in King Philip's War of 1675–1678 and King William's War of 1688–1697. He lost his life in the second conflict. His name is also spelled Walter Gendle in literature.
The Meetinghouse under the Ledge, also known as the Old Ledge Meetinghouse, was a church that stood in present-day Yarmouth, Maine, between 1729 and 1836. It was the ninth church founded in Maine.
Cushing Prince was an American sea captain in the first half of the 19th century.
Theophilus Drinkwater was an American sea captain in the first half of the 19th century.
Callen Point is a promontory in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It is located 2.2 miles (3.5 km) east-southeast of Yarmouth Village, on the southern banks of the Royal River, east of Larrabee's Landing and near the river's confluence with Casco Bay.
Broad Cove is a prominent cove in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It is around 1.5 miles (2.4 km) long and around 1 mile (1.6 km) wide at its mouth at inner Casco Bay. It sits between Sunset Point, at the southern end of Yarmouth, and the eastern edge of Cumberland Foreside. State Route 88 runs beside the cove.
Gilman Road is a prominent street in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It runs for about 1.7 miles (2.7 km) from Lafayette Street in the northwest to the Ellis C. Snodgrass Memorial Bridge at White's Cove in the southeast. At the bridge, which connects the Yarmouth mainland to Cousins Island, the road becomes Cousins Road.
Princes Point Road is a prominent street in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It runs for about 1.93 miles (3.11 km) from Lafayette Street in the north to Sunset Point Road in the south. It was one of the first streets laid out in the town when it was centered around the Meetinghouse under the Ledge in the 18th century. Gilman Road, another of the early roads in the area, intersects Princes Point Road near its northern end.
Drinkwater Point Road is a prominent street in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. One of the first streets laid out in what was then coastal North Yarmouth, Province of Massachusetts Bay, it runs for about 0.45 miles (0.72 km) from Gilman Road in the north to Seaborne Drive in the south. Drinkwater Point faces Cousins Island, to which it is connected by the Ellis C. Snodgrass Memorial Bridge, and overlooks inner Casco Bay.
Princes Point is a promontory in Yarmouth, Maine, United States. It is located around 2.70 miles (4.35 km) south of Yarmouth Village and looks out into inner Casco Bay. Princes Point Road leads to the point, which is named for shipwright Benjamin Prince, while Princes Point Road is named for his son, Paul Prince. They were both relatives of poet Elizabeth Oakes Smith. The point was part of an estate purchased by the Prince family in 1680.
Portland and Yarmouth Electric Railway was an electric trolleycar service that ran along the coast between Portland and Yarmouth, Maine, from 1898 and 1933. Described in 1901 as the "new electric road", Yarmouth was "now a closer neighbor [to Portland] than ever before" because of the railway's advent.
Stephen Larrabee (1630–1676) was a 17th-century French emigrant to the New England Colonies. Larrabee's Landing, in today's Yarmouth, Maine, is named for him. He was one of the first settlers in the town.