Juanito Oiarzabal

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Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal
Juanito Oiarzabal ME.jpg
Juanito Oiarzabal in 2007
Born (1956-03-30) March 30, 1956 (age 67) [1]
Nationality Flag of Spain.svg Spanish
Occupation Mountaineer
Website http://www.juanitooiarzabal.com/

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956), commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, [2] and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to conquer the top three summits twice (Everest + K2 + Kangchenjunga) and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old. [3] In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2. [4]

Contents

In 2009, he announced wanting to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice. [2] In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna, a world record. [5] In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander. [6] He is second all-time for 8000er ascents behind Nepali climber Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30. [6]

The Himalayas

His success in the Himalayas is well-known, but less well known is that before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated a curriculum which is among the best of Spain. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish mountain masses, on the hardest routes. He even discovered some routes of great relevance. He is highly experienced in climbing the Alps, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In other continents, he has climbed in North America, South America and Africa and returning to the Himalayas, it is here that he carries out his expeditions with the greatest ease, which may seem obvious after 35 expeditions over 23 years.

Mountaineering curriculum

Alaska

Argentina

Kenya

Nepal

Pakistan

China

China (autonomous region of Xinjiang)

  • 2000 – Taklamakan 800 km (500 mi) desert crossing, (desert, within the Gobi desert), only with the help of camels.

Greenland

Russia

Awards and distinctions

Books

Juanito Oiarzabal has published four books:

Audiovisual productions

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eight-thousander</span> Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anatoli Boukreev</span> Kazakh mountain climber

Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev was a Soviet and Kazakh mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks—those above 8,000 m (26,247 ft)—without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8000 m.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alan Hinkes</span> British Himalayan mountaineer

Alan Hinkes OBE is an English Himalayan high-altitude mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. He is the first British mountaineer to claim all 14 Himalayan eight-thousanders, which he did on 30 May 2005.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nasuh Mahruki</span> Turkish mountaineer, CHP Besiktas Municapilty Candidate

Ali Nasuh Mahruki is a professional mountain climber, writer, photographer and documentary film producer. He climbed to the summit of Mount Everest and was the first ever Turkish person to climb the Seven Summits.

Vladyslav Terzyul, was a Ukrainian alpinist, one of the world's premier high-altitude climbers.

Andrew James Lock OAM is an Australian high-altitude mountaineer. He became the first, and still remains the only, Australian to climb all 14 "eight-thousanders" on 2 October 2009, and is the 18th person to ever complete this feat. He climbed 13 of the 14 without bottled oxygen, only using it on Mount Everest, which he has summited three times. He retired from eight-thousander climbing in 2012.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner</span> Austrian mountaineer

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without using supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. In 2012, she won the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award.

Iván Vallejo is a high-altitude mountaineer from Ecuador. On 1 May 2008, he became the 14th person to reach the summit of all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters, and the 7th without use of supplemental oxygen. He is the first, and still the only, Southern Hemisphere climber to complete all 14 eight-thousanders, without supplemental oxygen.

Iñaki Ochoa de Olza was a Spanish climber. Ochoa de Olza took part in more than thirty separate climbing expeditions in the Himalayas over the course of his career, and was involved in more than 200 expeditions as a guide. His records included climbing 12 of the world's 14 tallest mountains without the aid of oxygen. Ochoa went on record as saying that he did not believe in using oxygen to climb mountains, claiming "if you use oxygen, you are not an alpinist; you are more of an astronaut or a scuba diver.". He died of pulmonary edema in May 2008 while climbing Annapurna.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Horia Colibășanu</span> Romanian mountain climber

Horia Colibășanu is a Romanian climber. He is the first Romanian to reach the summits of K2, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, and Kangchenjunga. He climbed ten of the most difficult peaks in the world, above 8,000 m. In 2009 Horia received the “Spirit of Mountaineering” award for his role in the rescue operation of Iñaki Ochoa de Olza.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Arjun Vajpai</span> Indian mountaineer

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alberto Iñurrategi</span> Basque Spanish mountaineer

Alberto Iñurrategi Iriarte is a Basque Spanish mountaineer born in Aretxabaleta, Gipuzkoa, Basque Country (Spain). In the year 2002, he became the second Spaniard and Basque and the 10th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Denis Urubko</span> Russian-Polish mountaineer

Denis Urubko is a Russian-Polish climber. In 2009, as a citizen of Kazakhstan he became the 15th person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders and the 8th person to achieve the feat without supplemental oxygen. He had Soviet citizenship, but after the dissolution of the Soviet Union he became a citizen of Kazakhstan, but renounced the citizenship in 2012. In 2013, he received Russian citizenship and on 12 February 2015 he received Polish citizenship.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hans Kammerlander</span> Italian mountaineer

Hans Kammerlander is an Italian mountaineer, living in Ahornach, a hamlet nearby Sand in Taufers. He has climbed 13 of the 14 8000m peaks. In 1984, together with Reinhold Messner he was the first climber to traverse two 8000 m peaks before descending to base camp.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Azim Gheychisaz</span> Iranian mountaineer

Azim Gheychisaz is an Iranian climber and summiter of all 14 Eight-thousanders without any supplimantry oxygen. Marble Wall peak in Kazakhstan was his first professional climbing in 2000. He is a member of Iranian national mountaineering team. By 2017, he has successfully ascended all 14 peaks over 8,000 m, becoming the first Iranian to do so and joining the 8000 club.

Alberto Zerain Berasategi was a Spanish mountaineer from Alava. He is best known as a solo alpinist and the first person to summit K2 during the 2008 K2 Disaster on 1 August. Zerain summited the mountain solo from Camp III and successfully descended before the series of events that led to the deaths of 11 climbers on 2 August 2008. In his lifetime, he climbed at least 7 eight-thousanders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nirmal Purja</span> Nepalese-British mountaineer

Nirmal Purja is a Nepal-born naturalised British mountaineer. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy. Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in a time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen. This was a record at the time of climbing, although it was broken in 2023 by Kristin Harila and Tenjen Sherpa, who summitted all 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days. Purja was the first person to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese climbers, completed the first winter ascent of K2.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition</span> First ascent of the 3rd highest mountain

The 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition succeeded in climbing the 28,168-foot (8,586 m) Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, for the first time. The expedition complied with a request from the Sikkim authorities that the summit should not be trodden on so the climbers deliberately stopped about five feet below the summit. George Band and Joe Brown reached the top on 25 May 1955, and they were followed the next day by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. The expedition was led by Charles Evans who had been deputy leader on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shehroze Kashif</span> Pakistani mountaineer (born 2002)

Shehroze Kashif is a Pakistani mountaineer who became the youngest climber in the world to summit K2 on 27 July 2021. He became the youngest Pakistani to summit Mount Everest on 11 May 2021. After the successful summit of Mount Everest, Sports Board Punjab made him the youth ambassador of Punjab, Pakistan. He summited Broad Peak at the age of 17, after which he was called 'The Broad Boy'.

References

  1. Oiarzabal, Juanito. Ingles.sge.org, Explorations and Expeditions, THE "FOURTEEN SUMMITS" WITHOUT OXYGEN, archived from the original on 2009-01-06, retrieved 2008-11-30{{citation}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  2. 1 2 explorersweb.com, StatCrunch: 8000er mountaineers with 6 summits or more, updated
  3. explorersweb.com, 3 – FIVE TREASURES ON THE EASTERN BORDER, retrieved 2010-05-17
  4. ExWeb interview: Juan Oiarzabal, "They are not climbers"
  5. Table with list of climbers who have reached 10 or more "eight-thousanders", including repetitions, by Eberhard Jurgalski (PDF download)
  6. 1 2 3 8000ers.com, Lhotse Summits!
  7. K2 climb - K2 and Karakorum by climbers, news Archived 2006-12-14 at the Wayback Machine
  8. FCG International Awards 2005 Archived 2011-07-27 at the Wayback Machine