Officine Universelle Buly

Last updated

Officine Universelle Buly
Company typePrivate
Industry Beauty
Founded2014;10 years ago (2014)
FoundersRamdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami
Headquarters
Paris
,
France
Number of locations
25 stores (2020)
Website www.buly1803.com

Officine Universelle Buly 1803 is a French beauty brand, which was first founded by Jean-Vincent Bully in 1803 on rue Saint-Honore in Paris, and then dusted by the French couple, [1] Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami in 2014. [2] It is headquartered in Paris, France, and has had more than 25 stores around the globe and counting, the brand sells perfumes, scented candles, soaps, plant oils, and other beauty products for body, [3] face and hair, as well as accessories.

Contents

History

Early years

At the beginning of the 19th century, a merchant perfumer, Claude Bully, invented a vinaigre de toilette, [4] a vinegar-based fragrance designed to fight body odours, cure disease, and nourish the skin, which later influenced the perfume industry and popular beauty care sector.

His son, Jean-Vincent Bully, [5] sought validation from doctors and scientists, bringing further recognition to the brand, and the vinegar based product was granted two patents in 1809, a second for a revised product in 1814. Officine Universelle Buly showcased products at the 1823, 1827, and 1849 World Fairs, and at the Great Exhibition in London (in 1851). [6] Pêle-Mêle praised the product in 1904 claiming that “the best vinaigre de toilette … bears the name of Bully vinegar.” In the summer of 1937, Le Figaro mentioned in its Beauty section: "Don't forget to buy a bottle of … Bully vinegar, the object of world renowned for nearly a century."

After the high comes the low: Bully lost his shop due to a riot in the whirlwind of a revolution, and then had to sell his business "for a trifling sum", [7] after which the perfumer died in poverty. His fate is mirrored in Cesar Birotteau, the eponymous protagonist in Balzac’s novel, Scenes from Histoire de la grandeur et de la décadence de César Birotteau from The Human Comedy .

The stores of Claude and Jean-Vincent Bully remained but a memory, yet a "Vinagre Aromatico Tipo de Bully" with the very same formula continued to exist in Latin America due to international licensing; the work of the Bully family had endured, although outside the borders of France.

Creation of Officine Universelle Buly 1803

Rediscovered by Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, [8] the brand was revived to what is now known as Officine Universelle Buly, or Buly 1803 in short, an emporium of beauty secrets from all around the world.

The first Buly shop was established in 2014, [9] at 6 rue Bonaparte, 75006, Paris, [10] and has seen a fast expansion around the world ever since. As of March 2021, Buly 1803 has 25 shops globally, in cities such as Paris, [11] Hong Kong, [12] New York, [13] San Francisco, London, Tokyo, [14] [15] Kyoto, Seoul, Taipei, Osaka, etc.

Business structure

Officine Universelle Buly was acquired by the multi-national LVMH in October 2021. [16] The company is managed by the duo Ramdane Touhami, the manager, and Victoire de Taillac-Touhami, the head of communication and the spokesperson. The brand now operates in 7 countries in the world and is rapidly expanding.

Products

Officine Universelle Buly carries a wide range of beauty products for body, face, hair and home, [17] with more than 800 variants amassed from around the world. Most of them bear a traditional French name [18] honoring its commitment to old beauty recipes but combined with innovative cosmetic techniques, such as eau triple, the brand’s water-based perfume, containing 0 alcohol. [19]

Collaboration

The Louvre Museum

2019 has seen an unprecedented collaboration between the Louvre museum and O.U.B, [20] [21] [22] [23] [24] [25] [26] with 8 perfumers each selecting 8 art pieces as an inspiration for 8 new fragrances, [27] namely:

Some of the scents are also available in candles, postcards, as well as soap sheets. [30] [31]

Related Research Articles

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fendi</span> Italian enterprise and fashion house

Fendi is an Italian luxury fashion house producing fur, ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, fragrances, eyewear, timepieces and accessories. Founded in Rome in 1925 by Edoardo Fendi and Adele Casagrande, Fendi is known for its fur, fur accessories, and leather goods. Since 2001, Fendi has been part of the “Fashion & Leather Goods” division of the French group LVMH. Its headquarters are in Rome, in the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hermès</span> French luxury goods manufacturer

Hermès International S.A. is a French luxury design house established on 1837. It specializes in leather goods, lifestyle accessories, home furnishings, perfumery, jewelry, watches and ready-to-wear. Since the 1950s, its logo has been a depiction of a ducal horse-drawn carriage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Guerlain</span> French perfume house

Guerlain is a French perfume, cosmetics, and skincare house which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coty</span> French American beauty company

Coty Inc. is an American multinational beauty company founded in 1904 by François Coty. With its subsidiaries, it develops, manufactures, markets, and distributes fragrances, cosmetics, skin care, nail care, and both professional and retail hair care products. Coty owns around 40 brands as of 2024.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Britney Spears products</span> Products endorsed by Britney Spears

American singer Britney Spears has developed and endorsed a number of products; these have included books, video releases, video games, dolls, clothing, and perfumes. In 2000, Spears released a limited edition of sunglasses titled Shades of Britney. In 2001, she signed a deal with shoe company Skechers, and a $7–8 million promotional deal with Pepsi, their biggest entertainment deal at the time. Aside from numerous commercials with the latter during that year, she also appeared in a 2004 Pepsi television commercial in the theme of "Gladiators" with singers Beyoncé, Pink, and Enrique Iglesias. On June 19, 2002, she released her first multi-platform video game, Britney's Dance Beat, which received positive reviews. In March 2009, Spears was announced as the new face of clothing brand Candie's. Dari Marder, chief marketing officer for the brand, explained why they choose the singer, saying, "everybody loves a comeback and nobody's doing it better than Britney. She's just poised for even greater success." In 2010, Spears designed a limited edition line for the brand, which was released in stores in July. In 2011, she teamed up with Sony, Make Up For Ever, and Plenty of Fish to release her music video for "Hold It Against Me", earning her $500,000 for the product placement. Spears also teamed up with Hasbro in 2012 to release an exclusive version of Twister Dance, which includes a remix of "Till the World Ends". The singer was also featured on a commercial, which was directed by Ray Kay, to promote the game. Spears was also featured on the commercial of "Twister Rave" and the game included a Twister remix of "Circus". In March 2018, it was revealed that Spears would be the face of Kenzo, a contemporary French luxury clothing house.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nina Ricci (brand)</span> Fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci

Nina Ricci is a fashion house founded by Maria "Nina" Ricci and her son Robert in Paris in 1932, and owned by the Spanish beauty and fashion group Puig since 1998.

Francis Kurkdjian is a French perfumer and businessman of Armenian descent. He is best known for creating the men's fragrance Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier in 1995, which has become one of the world's best-selling perfumes. He has since created a further 40 fragrances for major companies worldwide, including Elie Saab Le Parfum for Elie Saab; My Burberry for Burberry; L'extase for Nina Ricci; and Narciso Rodriguez for Her for Narciso Rodriguez, Green Tea for Elizabeth Arden.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramdane Touhami</span> French fashion designer (born 1974)

Ramdane Touhami is a French-Moroccan artist, creative director and entrepreneur.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">S by Shakira</span> Perfume by Shakira

S by Shakira is the first woman's fragrance by Colombian singer songwriter Shakira. Developing an interest in perfumery and scents, Shakira signed an agreement with international fashion company Puig to create a line of beauty and personal care products. S by Shakira is an amber perfume which combines scents of various exotic sources like sambac jasmine, sandalwood, and vanilla. The bottle of the perfume is made of treated glass which reflects light at different angles; it does not have a cap and instead utilises a key-like mechanism to stop the flow of the perfume. Shakira launched S by Shakira at a press release in Madrid, Spain, in June 2010, and it was sent to retail stores in September 2010. Critics praised the scent of S by Shakira, but there was criticism regarding the design of the bottle. It was nominated for a FiFi Award in 2011.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Elixir (perfume)</span> Womens fragrance by Colombian singer Shakira

Elixir is a women's fragrance by Colombian singer songwriter Shakira, developed in a collaboration with international fashion company Puig. After the release of her first two fragrances, Puig enlisted several perfumers to work on Shakira's third fragrance, which she claimed would capture her "most sensual and exotic side." The final product was Elixir, an amber perfume based on various spicy and woody sources. The flacon of the perfume is inspired by apothecary bottles and is made to resemble a magical potion, featuring a light golden colour scheme.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is a French perfumer, formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gourmand (fragrance)</span> Type of perfume

A gourmand fragrance is a perfume consisting primarily of synthetic edible (gourmand) notes, such as honey, chocolate, vanilla or candy. These top and middle notes may be blended with non-edible base notes such as patchouli or musk. They have been described as olfactory desserts. They are also called "foodie" fragrances and can be both feminine and masculine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Le Labo</span> Perfume brand

Le Labo is a slow perfumery brand born in Grasse, France, based in New York City and owned by Estée Lauder.

Miss Dior is a 1947 perfume released by Christian Dior.

Aedes de Venustas is a niche perfume store and fragrance line. Aedes has operated in Manhattan since 1995. The house perfume line launched in 2012, although there was an earlier collaboration with L'Artisan Parfumeur creating a home fragrance (2005) and perfume (2008) also named Aedes de Venustas.

Narciso Rodriguez for Her is an eau de toilette-strength perfume launched in September 2003 by fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez and created by perfumers Christine Nagel and Francis Kurkdjian. It has won Fragrance Foundation awards in France and the US, both at its original launch and retrospectively. The original eau de toilette is primarily a musk, amber and orange blossom scent. Narciso Rodriguez subsequently released an eau de parfum version and many other versions, known as flankers, that include other notes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miss Dior Chérie</span> Strawberry and popcorn fragrance by Christine Nagel for Dior

Miss Dior Chérie was a fragrance created by Christine Nagel for Christian Dior. At the time John Galliano served as Dior’s fashion designer and creative director, overseeing Nagel’s development of the unusual, youth-oriented strawberry-and-popcorn eau de parfum. Miss Dior Chérie was available from 2005 to 2011: after perfumer François Demachy joined Dior, Miss Dior Chérie was reformulated and renamed Miss Dior.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Ford (brand)</span> Italian-American luxury fashion house founded by fashion designer Tom Ford in 2005

Tom Ford SA is an American luxury fashion house founded by namesake designer Tom Ford in 2005. Its product line features ready-to-wear and made-to-measure offerings, as well as footwear, accessories, and handbags.

Christina Aguilera Fragrances is a perfume brand by American singer Christina Aguilera. It was founded in 2007 in a deal with Procter & Gamble (P&G), who manufactured the products until 2016, after its production and distribution rights were bought out by Elizabeth Arden, Inc. In addition to fragrances, the brand has also worked with the production and sale of other cosmetics, including body lotions, body sprays, bath gels, and deodorants.

References

  1. "Age-Old Beauty Secrets at Officine Universelle Buly". Wall Street Journal. 20 May 2015. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  2. "L'Officine Universelle Buly 1803 | Womenswear | Shop Online at MATCHESFASHION FR". www.matchesfashion.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  3. Golfar, Fiona (12 November 2020). "Immersion therapy: the secrets of a perfect bath". www.ft.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  4. "Age-Old Beauty Secrets at Officine Universelle Buly". Wall Street Journal. 20 May 2015. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  5. L'héroïsme de Bully et son vinaigre. - [83] (1847)
  6. Charles Robin, Histoire illustrée de l’exposition universelle.
  7. Eugène-Oscar Lami, Dictionnaire encyclopédique et biographique de l'industrie et des arts industriels. (The Encyclopedic and Biographical Dictionary of Industry and the Industrial Arts).
  8. Cook, Grace (5 December 2019). "Financial Times". www.ft.com. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  9. "Un jour un objet fait en France (5/10, saison 2) : les flacons Buly". Le Monde.fr (in French). 29 January 2021. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  10. Emmrich, Stuart (9 July 2015). "The Power of Perfume". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  11. "L'Officine Universelle Buly rue de Saintonge, l'endroit insolite du Marais à découvrir absolument". Numéro .
  12. FR, FashionNetwork com. "Buly s'installe à Hong Kong". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  13. Ellenberg, Celia (18 April 2017). "A Cultish Parisian Apothecary Opens in New York". Vogue. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  14. Wetherille, Kelly (31 March 2017). "L'Officine Universelle Buly Opens in Tokyo". WWD. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  15. FR, FashionNetwork com. "Le Français Buly ouvre sa première boutique à Tokyo". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  16. "Officine Universelle Buly 1803 joins the LVMH Group". LVMH. 5 October 2021. Retrieved 3 November 2021.
  17. Molvar, Kari (30 May 2019). "The Fresh Appeal of Old-Fashioned Beauty Products". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  18. "Buly, des cosmétiques à l'aura nostalgique". Le Temps (in French). 20 February 2018. ISSN   1423-3967 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  19. Molvar, Kari (21 June 2018). "The Refreshing Appeal of Water-Based Perfumes". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  20. Cook, Grace (26 June 2019). "Now You Can Smell Like The Louvre". Wall Street Journal. ISSN   0099-9660 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  21. "The art of the scent". www.bbc.co.uk. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  22. "Le Louvre expose Buly". LEFIGARO (in French). 24 June 2019. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  23. Louvre : des chefs-d'œuvre ont leur parfum (in French), retrieved 29 April 2021
  24. Thomas, Lesley. "The Louvre's new perfume collection, as inspired by great works of art". The Times . ISSN   0140-0460 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  25. Cavanagh, Alice (28 September 2019). "T's Beauty Guide to Paris". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  26. FR, FashionNetwork.com. "L'Officine Universelle Buly s'installe au Louvre". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  27. Farrell, Aimee (25 October 2019). "Artistic scents: Perfumers take notes from the gallery". Financial Times. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  28. Asome, Carolyn (8 July 2019). "The scent of luxury? The Louvre commissions fragrances to match its masterpieces for the first time ever". The Telegraph. ISSN   0307-1235 . Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  29. Sayej, Nadja (13 October 2019). "What Does a Fragonard Smell Like?". Garage. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  30. "Buly Partners With The Louvre To Create Fragrances Based On Art". Haute Living. 11 July 2019. Retrieved 29 April 2021.
  31. "The Louvre has created eight perfumes based on its most famous artworks". Lonely Planet. Retrieved 29 April 2021.