Protective hairstyle

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Woman with Bantu knots hairstyle, a type of protective hairstyle Nubian Knots.jpg
Woman with Bantu knots hairstyle, a type of protective hairstyle

A protective hairstyle is a term predominantly used to describe hairstyles suitable for Afro-textured hair. These hairstyles are designed to minimize manipulation and exposure of the hair to environmental elements. Factors such as extreme temperatures, humidity, and precipitation can adversely affect hair health. Protective hairstyles are beneficial in mitigating these effects by keeping the hair tucked away and reducing its exposure to potentially damaging conditions.

Contents

Common types of protective hairstyles include braids, wigs, locks, and twists. These styles are not only functional in protecting the hair from weather-related damage but also aid in retaining hair length and promoting growth. The adoption of protective hairstyles can lead to a reduction in hair tangles and knots. Additionally, these styles can offer respite to the hair from constant styling, pulling, and combing, thus contributing to overall hair health.

Protective hairstyles have also been recognized for their cultural and social significance. They play a role in the expression of cultural identity and can be seen as a form of artistic and personal expression. The versatility and diversity of these hairstyles reflect the rich cultural heritage associated with Afro-textured hair.

Afro-textured hair is often prone to breakage or damage from the elements; protective hairstyles aim to guard against this. [1] However protective hairstyles sometimes involve tension at the scalp, like braids with weaves and wigs, [2] and can cause thinning of the hairline. They may also prevent hair from growing, which, if prolonged, may lead to traction alopecia. [3] [4] This happens mainly in cases of untreated hair that is not properly maintained with the necessary oils and products.

Protective styles require styling hair for a few days and using the correct styles and products. Depending on the hairstyle and how well it is taken care of, protective hairstyles can last between two weeks to two months.

In the United States, some jurisdictions have banned discrimination based on hairstyles associated with African Americans, including protective hairstyles. [5] In 2007, a radio host Don Imus caused an outrage when he called the Rutgers University basketball team "nappy-headed". This led to cancellations of his future show. In 2020 Noah Cyrus made a comment about "nappy hair" which led to many controversies. She later on apologized through social media, saying she didn't know the context and history behind the terms she had used. [6] A federal bill called the Crown Act was passed in 2022: the Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act of 2022 was passed with the intention to prohibit race-based discrimination based on hairstyles and hair texture. In present time Black women have created blogs and YouTube channels to embrace their hairstyles in positive ways.

History

Culture

Protective hairstyles, including various forms of braids, hold significant cultural importance in African history, with their origins tracing back thousands of years. These hairstyles are not only a reflection of aesthetic preferences but also carry deep cultural symbolism. Intricate patterns and styles in braiding often symbolize strength and creativity within African tribes and communities. Historically, braids served as distinguishing markers of tribal affiliation and were indicative of an individual's wealth, religious beliefs, age, marital status, and ethnicity. [7]

In contemporary contexts, braids and similar hairstyles continue to be significant, often viewed as rites of passage and modes of self-expression, particularly among women of color. [8] However, issues of hair discrimination and bias present challenges. Globally, women often feel compelled to alter their natural hairstyles to conform to societal norms, especially in professional settings. This includes changing hair from its natural state to styles perceived as more acceptable, such as straightening curly hair for job interviews. [9]

Slavery

At the wake of slavery, many women and men from Africa were forced to shave their heads, stripping them of not only their hair but also their culture and humanity. Before that, many slaves used their braiding hairstyles as maps of the land and storage for small grains and nuts. With this, many laws were created to prohibit braids and other cultural and protective hairstyles. These laws were not overturned until the Black Power Movement in the 60s and 70s. Even after the laws were overturned, many still faced discrimination due to their hair type and hairstyles. This had stripped many people of the use of their braids as a form of culture to the use of braids as function; to keep hair manageable. Many styles were simplified and sometimes they were a struggle to maintain, not having proper access to products and tools. This led to many people using substances like kerosine to moisturize their hair. Later cultural movements would brings back this sense of culture in wearing these protective hairstyles. The word nappy has been used to reference the "frizzy texture" of African American hair since the 1880s. [10] [11]

Braids and cornrows were also used to escape slavery. Since slaves were not allowed to learn how to read or write, another methods of communication was necessary. Thus, came the use of cornrows to draw out maps and pass messages to escape slavery. This method was even used within the Underground Railroad. Additionally, rice and seeds would be woven into the braids in order to grow food after they had escaped. [12] [13] [ failed verification ] [14]

Preparation and Maintenance

Preparation

Before using protective hairstyles, it is important to cleanse the hair and the scalp thoroughly, as most protective styles are left in for weeks at a time and cleansing rids hair of product, dirt and oil buildup. A sulfate free shampoo is recommended so as not to cause damage. It is important to be gentle while shampooing as rough washing can cause friction and lead to breakage. To prevent water damage and restore oils and moisture into the hair after washing, the next necessary step is to use a deep conditioner and sometimes a leave in conditioner. These conditioners can be paired with additional oils to ensure healthy hair and minimize breakage before, during and after using protective hairstyles to manage hair. [15]

Maintenance

After the hair is installed, there are many ways to maintain the health of the hair and the style. One of these ways are to wrap hair before sleeping in satin or silk as to minimize friction and frizz created from bedding. A lightweight hair gel can also be added while wrapping hair to further reduce the creation of frizz and flyaways. With the scalp being exposed, it is very important to clean it periodically with shampoo diluted with water. After this and throughout wearing the hairstyles, it is necessary to moisturize the scalp after washing and moisturize the hair regularly. This can be done with many types of oils and leave in conditioners. [16] [17]

Protective Hairstyles and Travel

The adaptability of protective hairstyles becomes particularly relevant for travelers transitioning between diverse climates. Changing weather conditions can pose various challenges to hair health. In colder climates, dry and frigid air increases the risk of hair breakage and dryness, while warm and humid conditions can lead to frizz and discomfort. Protective styles such as wigs, braids, twists, and updos with scarves offer practical solutions for these challenges, combining adaptability, ease of maintenance, and style. Wigs provide versatility, braids like box braids and cornrows protect natural hair from the elements, twists offer chic styling options, and scarves in updos add both protection and fashion flair in varying climates. [18]

Maintenance and care of hair also vary depending on the climate. In colder regions, focus on hydration and protecting the ends from breakage is essential, whereas, in warmer climates, using products to combat humidity and keeping the scalp clean becomes a priority. These considerations are vital for travelers who wish to maintain healthy and stylish hair while adapting to different environmental conditions.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hairstyle</span> Style of hair, usually on the human scalp

A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head but sometimes on the face or body. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dreadlocks</span> Rope-like braiding hairstyle

Dreadlocks, also known as dreads or locs, are rope-like strands of hair formed by matting which is done by not combing the hair and allowing the hair to mat naturally or by twisting hair and over time the twisted hair will form into matted locs.

A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by interlacing three or more strands of flexible material such as textile yarns, wire, or hair. The simplest and most common version is a flat, solid, three-stranded structure. More complex patterns can be constructed from an arbitrary number of strands to create a wider range of structures. The structure is usually long and narrow with each component strand functionally equivalent in zigzagging forward through the overlapping mass of the others. It can be compared with the process of weaving, which usually involves two separate perpendicular groups of strands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair conditioner</span> Hair care product

Hair conditioner is a hair care cosmetic product used to improve the feel, texture, appearance and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce friction between strands of hair to allow smoother brushing or combing, which might otherwise cause damage to the scalp. Various other benefits are often advertised, such as hair repair, strengthening, or a reduction in split ends.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Afro</span> Hair style

The afro is a hair style created by combing out natural growth of afro-textured hair, or specifically styled with chemical curling products by individuals with naturally curly or straight hair. The hairstyle can be created by combing the hair away from the scalp, dispersing a distinctive curl pattern, and forming the hair into a rounded shape, much like a cloud or puff ball.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cornrows</span> Style of hair braiding

Cornrows are a style of braids in which the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to make a continuous, raised row. Cornrows are often done in simple, straight lines, as the term implies, but they can also be styled in elaborate geometric or curvilinear designs.

Artificial hair integrations, more commonly known as hair extensions, hair weaves, and fake hair add length and fullness to human hair. Hair extensions are usually clipped, glued, or sewn on natural hair by incorporating additional human or synthetic hair. These methods include tape-in extensions, clip-in or clip-on extensions, micro/nano rings, fusion method, weaving method, and wigs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kinky hair</span> Human hair texture indigenous to sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia

Kinky hair, also known as afro-textured hair, is a human hair texture prevalent in the indigenous populations of many regions with hot climates, mainly sub-Saharan Africa, Melanesia, and Australia. Each strand of this hair type grows in a tiny, angle-like helix shape. The overall effect is such that, contrasted with straight hair, wavy hair, or curly hair, kinky hair appears denser.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hair straightening</span> Hair styling technique

Hair straightening is a hair styling technique used since the 1890s involving the flattening and straightening of hair in order to give it a smooth, streamlined, and sleek appearance. It became very popular during the 1950s among black males and females of all races. It is accomplished using a hair iron or hot comb, chemical relaxers, Japanese hair straightening, Brazilian hair straightening, or roller set/blowdryer styling. In addition, some shampoos, conditioners, and hair gels can help to make hair temporarily straight.

Hairstyle products are used to change the texture and/or shape of hair.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">African-American hair</span> Afro-textured hair types

African-American hair or Black hair refers to hair types, textures, and styles that are linked to African-American culture, often drawing inspiration from African hair culture. It plays a major role in the identity and politics of Black culture in the United States and across the diaspora. African-American hair often has a kinky hairy texture, appearing tightly coiled and packed. Black hair has a complex history, culture, and cultural impact, including its relationship with racism.

Discrimination based on hair texture, also known as textureism, is a form of social injustice, where afro-textured hair or coarse hair types are viewed negatively, often perceived as "unprofessional", "unattractive", or "unclean".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crochet braids</span>

Crochet braids, also known as latch hook braids, are techniques for braiding hair that involve crocheting synthetic hair extensions to a person's natural hair with a latch hook or crochet hook. While crochet braids are a hybrid of traditional braids, they're considered to be more similar to weaves. This method is associated with African hair styles. Known as a protective style, the technique can assist with hair growth if cared for properly. Crochet braids can be worn straight, curly, twisted, or braided.

The natural hair movement is a movement which aims to encourage people of African descent to embrace their natural, afro-textured hair; especially in the workplace. It originated in the United States during the 1960s, and resurged in popularity in the 2000s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Curly Girl Method</span> Curly hair maintenance method

The Curly Girl Method is an approach to hair care designed by author Lorraine Massey for natural hair that has not been chemically relaxed. This method discourages the daily use of sulfate shampoo, which is considered too harsh for curly hair. Among other things, it calls for the use of a cleansing conditioner in place of shampoo, no silicones, the use of a diffuser when blowdrying, and no combs, brushes, or terrycloth towels. It also includes tips for using hair gel and other styling products. The aim in general is to treat naturally curly hair gently, minimizing damage to the hair cuticle; to keep it moisturized, since curly hair is more prone to dryness than straight hair; and, perhaps most significantly, to accentuate rather than interfere with the hair's natural curl pattern.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Box braids</span> Hair braids which are characterized by "boxy" or square-shaped hair divisions

Box braids are a type of hair-braiding style that is predominantly popular among African people and the African diaspora. This type of hairstyle is a "protective style" and is "boxy", consisting of square-shaped hair divisions. Box braids are generally installed by using synthetic hair which helps to add thickness as well as helping the natural hair that is in the braid. Because they are not attached to the scalp like other similar styles such as cornrows, box braids can be styled in a number of different ways. The installation process of box braids can be lengthy, but once installed they can last for six to eight weeks. They are known for being easy to maintain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Frizz</span> Hair that does not align with the surrounding hair

Frizz is hair that does not align with the surrounding hair, but stands up or curls independently, creating a fuzzy or irregular texture. The three main causes of frizz are genetics, hair damage, and humidity. Frizzy hair can be seen as a positive or a negative trait depending on the current fashion and one's personal preference. Many hair products, such as gels, pomades, and hair waxes, are designed to reduce frizz.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Braid (hairstyle)</span> Hairstyle formed by interlacing 3 or more strands

Braids are a complex hairstyle formed by interlacing three or more strands of hair. Braiding has been used to style and ornament human and animal hair for thousands of years in various cultures around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pamela Ferrell</span> American natural hair care businesswoman

Pamela L. Ferrell is an American entrepreneur, pioneer and advocate in the natural haircare field. She is best known for the pivotal role she played in assisting the United States (U.S.) Army and Navy with their review of hairstyle policies and regulations. She is the first known and documented African-American to help shape hair policies within the United States Armed Forces.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rogers v. American Airlines (1981)</span>

Rogers v. American Airlines was a 1981 legal case decided by the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York involving plaintiff Renee Rogers, a Black woman who brought charges against her employer, American Airlines, for both sex and race discrimination after she was dissuaded from wearing her hair in cornrows due to the airline's employee grooming policy. Rogers believed that this hair policy was a violation of her Title VII rights.

References

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